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#1. [E36M3] Turkey Day! - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 16:00:41 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: [E36M3] Turkey Day! Obviously off topic, but hopefully this is acceptable. ;) I may be out of the office tomorrow with no access to the 'net, so I thought I'd just tell everyone on the list to have a wonderful holiday. (on topic) I'm thankful for all the great ///M info I've learned from this list over the last year and half (give or take). Happy Thanksgiving! Jonathan L. _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#2. [E36M3] Let's center the Throttle plate - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:26:53 EST From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] Let's center the Throttle plate While putting on the finishing touches of my JC Euro Intake, I decided to go back in and center up the throttle plate...recalling a tidbit from the old Richard Welty digest. As I understand it, most, if not all, BMWs have their throttle plates go "over center" when full throttle is applied....that certainly was the case with my M3. So, using a set of calipers, and wedging my gas pedal to full "go", I adjusted the throttle cable until the throttle plate was exactly centered. Seems that should offer less restriction ...BUT the Haynes manual makes a vague reference about proper adjustment being past center. Not sure why this would be...so far I'm not experiencing any negatives. Anyone have any experience with this?? TIA, Roger W. Graves RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3...exactly centered throttle
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Lunatica Laguna - from Jim Powell
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:27:48 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lunatica Laguna I don't disagree. But I'll also point out that instructors don't grow on trees. So the same ones tend to show up at almost any event you go to. Jim Donna Seeley wrote: > Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 19:37:41 -0700 > From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lunatica Laguna > > As a hopeless track junkie, I'd like to chime in on the value of CCA > schools. I go out 2-3 times a month - 30 track days this year, even with 10 > weeks off for a broken arm and post-Ofest wallet recovery. > > Seat time alone is great, but I go to every CCA school I can for the > instruction. In the last two weekends, at Sears Point and Laguna, three of > my four instructors were guys I'll be racing against next season (Carl, > Blaine, and Tim). All four did their damnedest to make me a good competitor > instead of a speed bump, and I made quantum leaps in my skills. As far as > I'm concerned, it was worth every penny! I don't begrudge the instructors > their motel rooms and lunches, since they'd all rather be on the track > themselves, and GGC and LA don't let them go out by themselves (I don't know > about SD). I was signed off almost immediately both weekends but only went > out by myself three times. Solo seat time is cheap and easy to get, but good > teachers giving instant feedback are worth paying for. > > FWIW, since I'm also a GGC Board member, I can second Sherm's assurances > that SP and LS have gotten to be very expensive venues. And both tracks are > doing construction, so don't expect prices to drop. > > Donna > ------- > 88 M3, "Guido" > 95 330isA, super-commuter > 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > > > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > > Subject: Lunatica Laguna > > > >> David Heckendorf said: > >> > >> Leif said the club doesn't make any profit to speak of and I trust him, he's > >> always be a straight-shooter with me... > > > > My comments shouldn't be construed to insinuate that I think LA or GGC or > > anyone else is making a killing on Laguna Seca schools. I don't know. People > > who are close friends of mine like Sherman Koo tell me that they aren't. > > <snip> > > Jim > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Ground Control v. B-T-G Shock Mounts - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:10:26 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ground Control v. B-T-G Shock Mounts I have the B-T-G (i.e., JTD) rear shock mounts on my '95 M3. I bought the first batch for sale so I have about 10 months on them. I like them. No squeaks. I now have the "His" black bushings in. I really can't tell a difference between the "His" and "Her" bushings, however; I changed shocks at the same time (worn out stock to stiff new Bilstein). You can't remove the shock from the wheel well. You still have to tear out the darn carpet and access the top of the shock towers. This reminds me of the people that said they could do both shock mounts in 40 minutes. Takes me closer to 2 hours with all the little stuff. I even have to undo my battery cable to get the carpet out of the passenger side. That means it takes me 15 minutes to reprogram all my radio stations! Argh! I think you are thinking of the big nut on the topside inside the trunk. I don't know what the advantage of it is. Supposedly you can replace the bushings without removing the shock mount from the wheel well. OK. I don't see that as a big advantage. Looks to me it is easier to undo the two small 13 mm nuts instead of the big 36 mm nut. My 36 mm nut is so tight I could not budge it and left it alone. I'll recommend the B-T-G shock mounts. I think they are even running a sale until Christmas. Be sure to mention you are a member of Suzy's List. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas
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#5. RE: A032R's ?... - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:38:28 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: A032R's ?... The A032 still has a bunch of rubber on it after the grooves are gone. You should be able to get several more track weekends out of them. But they will be much harder than when new and will slide more than you would expect from a tire that now looks a lot like a slick. Bob Stommel 97 M3/4 street 88 M3 race >Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 10:15:45 -0500 >From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.COM> >Subject: A032R's ?... > >Fellow digesters, > >I recently bought a set of used SSR Integrals that came shod w/ >used A032R's. The tires have some tread left but I was >wondering how much life left do those tires have once the tread >is gone. >TIA > >Luis >CCA member >'95 M3 >'88 M5
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#6. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel - from Sean W. Smith
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:46:37 -0500 From: "Sean W. Smith" <seansmith@nc.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel I ripped the whole front nose of my car with an 18 peice of 18 wheeler re-tread. The only peice left that was re-usable was the JTD peice. it was bent and scraped but we bent it back and it screwed nicely back into place. Highly recommeded and definitely more durable than the stock peice... Sean > -----Original Message----- > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com [mailto:shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com] > Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 12:15 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel > > > Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 10:45:27 -0500 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@ac.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 plastic underpanel > > > >I don't understand how y'all are breaking the underpanel and > losing it. I > >attempted to flush my coolant this past weekend and removed the > underpanel > to > >gain access to the radiator plug. That underpanel piece is shaped like a > "U", > >correct (when viewed from the front of the car)? The ends of the U are > >attached to the subframe view 4 screws. I guess you guys crack the legs > that > >reach up to the subframe (the arms of the "U")?? > > This is how it happened on my car. Roebling Road two weekends ago, me > hauling ass down the straight at 125 mph. Just as I get to the braking > zone, I hear an incredibly loud scraping sound reverberating through the > car., get through 1 and 2 without having any idea where it is coming from, > slow down through 3 and 4 and take the exit road into the paddock. Look > underneath the car and the underpanel is hanging down like a scoop, which > explains the noise. I ripped it off (what was left anyway, most of it is > one with the RR tarmac) with the help of a track worker, threw it in the > trunk and headed back out. When I got in at the end of the session, I > figured out why it broke. This thing is very poorly constructed for an > aerodynamic part. Air is constantly pulling down on it, yet it is mounted > by putting metal screws through some holes in plastic that are very close > to the edge of the material. The material simply tears away and is sucked > down to the ground, which does the rest of the work. Same basic poor > design as the fender liners. BMW needs to put the mounting screws further > inboard to keep them from tearing away the little piece of plastic. I > ordered the JT underpanel on Friday, but have not heard anything, > or gotten > anything yet. I'm hoping to get it before Thanksgiving so I can occupy my > In-laws by making my father-in-law help me install it, along with the rear > shock mounts, which are shot as well. > > Shane Kleinpeter > Tarheel Chapter > '96 M3 > '88 535is > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Spark plug/emission failure - from Ted Telesky
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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 23:51:24 -0500 From: Ted Telesky <TTelesky@compuserve.com> Subject: Spark plug/emission failure Hi, My M3 failed its emission test - high hydrocarbons at 2500 RPM (114 ppm). I took it to a local mechanic I have been trying out (maybe a mistake) and they replaced the oxygen sensor (85K miles) and that didn't help. Then he replaced the spark plugs. It seemed to help somewhat on his test machine. I am taking it in for the real smog test tomorrow. He pulled Bosch plugs out of my car and put in BMW p/n 12-12-9-064-619 (appear to be NGK type) I called the dealer, he says this plug and the Bosch p/n 12-12-9-063-428 are both for my car, but didn't know when to use which one. Is there any difference? Also, the guy did not use a torque wrench to put the new plugs in - should I be concerned? Anything I should do before the test tomorrow? I hear M3's need to be hot... Thanks Ted
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake pads - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 01:40:11 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pads How spirited is your driving? I have PBR Deluxe pads on my '95 M3. They are totally dust free. I can go weeks between washing my wheels. With the stock pads, my wheels got dusty just backing out of the garage. However, the PBR Deluxe are only good for one hard stop and then they fade. For commuting and most driving, I think they are fine. They are cheap and stop pretty good in my opinion. I think they are a little grabby but I like that. Step on the brakes and "thunk" your head hits the windshield. They might squeal some. I put mine on without brake goop or backing plates and I get a little squeal. If you do autocross, the PBR are OK for that. An autocross is not long enough to fade the brakes. I autocross with my PBR Deluxe. But do NOT consider track driving with them. You won't make the first lap. Jim Powell claims to have done a driving school with them. How I don't know. Must have been an oval track <g> Only JAP could do it. If you want dustless, you can't get more dust free than PBR Deluxe. Just be careful and avoid long periods of high speed braking. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Spark plug/emission failure - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 02:06:49 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spark plug/emission failure Did the mechanic use anti-seize lubricant on the spark plug threads? If not, I'd recommend pulling them all out and putting on lubricant. I once had a mechanic put plugs in and he did not lubricate the threads. When I went to remove them a couple years later, one of the spark plugs broke off inside the engine. I had to pull the head off to get it out. I was not happy. Spark plugs do not need to be super tight. I've never used a torque wrench. A rule of thumb used to be you turn the spark plug until it was hand tight and then another 1/4 turn. Your mechanic could have been doing this method. I agree he should have used a torque wrench. He should have one at least. I have never had a torque wrench small enough for spark plugs. You need one that is accurate for the 10-20 lb-ft range. I'm surprised you failed the emissions test. If your M3 was cold when the test was done, then that could be it. Next time do the test with a hot engine. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505
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#10. Re: 1995 M3 and EWS - from John Firestone
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 11:58:32 -0500 (EST) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: Re: 1995 M3 and EWS On Fri, 3 Nov 2000, Patrick Sarne wrote: > I have a 1/95 production M3 that definitely does NOT have EWS. It has the > EWS ring around the ignition keyhole, but I was told at the parts dept that > it was a 'dummy EWS ring'. Go figure. Anyway, just another data point. I believe EWS-II was added to European 3ers toward the end of 1993 or just after. It was definitely standard by 1995. That may explain your ring. With regards from John. '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlight Lens - from John Firestone
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 12:14:08 -0500 (EST) From: John Firestone <john.firestone@nord-com.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Headlight Lens On Wed, 15 Nov 2000, Steve Hudson wrote: > The tab on the lens that holds in the turn signal didn't quite lock the turn > signal in place. At the next autocross, the turn signal fell out and was > dangling by the wire. > The fix was to trim the tab, so it would mate correctly with the turn > signal. Perhaps a silly question. I noticed my white front turn signals had two detents. Did you push until the second click when you first installed them? -John '96 318is -- john.firestone@nord-com.net
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#12. Re: [E36M3] Spark plug/emission failure - from Ted Telesky
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Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 06:43:14 -0500 From: Ted Telesky <TTelesky@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spark plug/emission failure Lowell, The mechanic did not use any compound. Though with the mileage I put on I am sure the plugs will be coming out in less than a year. If you think the compound is still necessary, I will have it done at the Inspection II coming up. Watching him put in the spark plugs, I think he followed your method. I don't know if there was a torque wrench around the shop or not. When I failed the emission test, I had driven the car about 20 minutes before hand, left it idling while the guy wrote up the ticket. He turned it off to check the engine light. I though it should have been warm. Any comments on the spark plug part numbers - I am OK? Thanks for your help. Ted Message text written by INTERNET:LoweSeaton@aol.com > Did the mechanic use anti-seize lubricant on the spark plug threads? If not, I'd recommend pulling them all out and putting on lubricant. I once had a mechanic put plugs in and he did not lubricate the threads. When I went to remove them a couple years later, one of the spark plugs broke off inside the engine. I had to pull the head off to get it out. I was not happy. Spark plugs do not need to be super tight. I've never used a torque wrench. A rule of thumb used to be you turn the spark plug until it was hand tight and then another 1/4 turn. Your mechanic could have been doing this method. I agree he should have used a torque wrench. He should have one at least. I have never had a torque wrench small enough for spark plugs. You need one that is accurate for the 10-20 lb-ft range. I'm surprised you failed the emissions test. If your M3 was cold when the test was done, then that could be it. Next time do the test with a hot engine. Good luck. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 Dallas, Texas BMW CCA #131505 <