-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:30:04 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types Per my earlier post, the pain with Zymol is in the cleaning first. I find applying the wax with my hands instead of an applicator relaxing and since you wipe on wipe off, it's pretty quick if you don't do a full clean first. I've had great success with Concours and Destiny lasting a long time as well but have had negative reports on the Carbon which has less carnuba wax. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 03:25 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:19:56 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types > > > > I have been recently looking for a better wax than I currently have. > > > > I haven't tried Zaino myself (Corvette guys love it). I have been very > > happy with P21S wax - also available at carcareonline. It goes on very > > easily and is fairly durable. I once used Zymol on my Porsche - never again > > man. It looked great, but was the biggest pain in the ass to apply. > > DISCLAIMER: I have never used Zymol products...just heard a lot about them. > > Not trying to insult anyone's intelligence or anything like that, but is Zymol > really that hard to apply on a surface that has been well prepped (clay, paint > cleaner, etc)? > > Assuming a properly cleansed paint, perhaps some people are using too much of > the Zymol stuff? Also, the stuff has to be wiped off before it tries, correct? > Perhaps people are waiting for the wax to haze where they shouldn't be? Or > maybe you guys aren't getting the real Zymol? > > Just curious. BTW, John, what do you use on the Porsche now? > > Thanks, > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > >
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] What would you do? - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 13:58:34 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What would you do? I'm not sure but suspect that the PTG guys cut the towers off so that the new mounting points will have a more advantageous geometry. Why don't you have another plate formed and gusseted to weld on top? You could use the towers off of Kris Kolaitis' car after he rolls it running those crappy Pirelli tires too :) Jim PS: I'll have to start using the San Diego website to store my personal files too. What a money saver! :) dholeman@spooze.com wrote: > Date: 27 Nov 2000 11:45:01 -0800 > From: dholeman@spooze.com > Subject: What would you do? > > In preperation for installing a new motor I removed the motorsport strut brace and found that the shock towers have taken quite a beating this year. It looks like the force from the camber plates has creased the top of the shock towers. > > www.windycitybmw.com/temp/rshockmount.jpg > www.windycitybmw.com/temp/lshockmount.jpg > > The metal is not cracked through but the paint is chipping on some of these creases. It is fair to assume that the tower has been weakend and more likely to crack through. Given that this is pretty much a > dedicated track car do you all have any suggestions or options I should consider. I have noticed that for the PTG prepared cars they cut the top of the tower off and weld on their own plate. What do folks do about about this? I can't imagine that it is that uncommon. Your suggestions would be appreciated. > > David Holeman > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. OEM Parts for Sale - from nabli@attglobal.net
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:08:47 -0500 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: OEM Parts for Sale 1. BMW Red Motorsport seatbelt assemblies with black "BMW MOTORSPORT" stitching. Front and Rear brand new never used or installed. In original boxes. Complete set - $375 + ship. Complete set retails for - ~$550 2. Original "BMW Motorsport International" Carbon Door sill set and side molding checkered inserts. All brand new and never used in original packing. Complete set - $215 + ship. Complete set retails for - ~305 Cheers, Jim E.
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... - from George M. Kofman
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:24:06 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... Ladies & Gents, My car has been in the sho for a week with a [check engine] light. two new O2 sensors fixed nothing. Today my SA calls me and regretfully informs me that the DME is shot (~1,200). The wiring harness that attaches to the DME has been damaged ($2250 in parts, 25+ hrs labor). $4-5K worth of stuff. OUCH !!!!! the car is out of BMW Factory warranty, but in my infinite wisdom I purchased a Diamond plan from warranty gold. Hope to G-d they cover it..... Soooo, any clues as to how or why this happened ? The BMW shop is clueless. They have never seen anythinbg on this scale before. My SA tells me the car will be ripped apart to replace the wiring.... And the harness will probably take weeks to get here. I'll be driving a courtesy Jetta VR6 for a while :-( Anyone on this list with a warranty gold ? I did not see an electical harness nor the DME being included nor excluded... GMK '97 MMM/4, low 50'sK miles; w/ major electrical $hit happening....... reminds me of my '89 Saab 900T[urbo] - head gasket at 36Kmi...
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... - from Donna Seeley
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:37:53 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... George, I've had Warranty Gold's Diamond plan since April '99 for the '95 M3. They've been great, except when I tried to talk them into a preventative water pump replacement (they'd rather buy a $12k motor than a $150 pump?). The Diamond policy is their top plan and only cost about $200 more than the next down, and it's exclusionary (normal wear items aren't covered) instead of only listing what it will cover. It isn't a maintenance item and if it isn't specifically excluded, your DME should be covered. The $2000 3yr/50kmi plan has paid for itself already by covering a timing chain tensioner ($850), head gasket ($1900) and brake light housing (~$500). My friends and I do normal maintenance chores, and it's nice to be able to go to a dealer for the big stuff. The SA at East Bay BMW was astounded that WG called back within 1.5 hours for the brake light, since he said it usually takes 1-2 days with other extended warranty companies. Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:24:06 -0600 > From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> > Subject: wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... > > Ladies & Gents, > > My car has been in the sho for a week with a [check engine] light. two new > O2 sensors fixed nothing. Today my SA calls me and regretfully informs me > that the DME is shot (~1,200). The wiring harness that attaches to the DME > has been damaged ($2250 in parts, 25+ hrs labor). $4-5K worth of stuff. > OUCH !!!!! the car is out of BMW Factory warranty, but in my infinite > wisdom I purchased a Diamond plan from warranty gold. Hope to G-d they > cover it..... > > Soooo, any clues as to how or why this happened ? The BMW shop is clueless. > They have never seen anythinbg on this scale before. My SA tells me the car > will be ripped apart to replace the wiring.... And the harness will > probably take weeks to get here. I'll be driving a courtesy Jetta VR6 for a > while :-( > > Anyone on this list with a warranty gold ? I did not see an electical > harness nor the DME being included nor excluded... > > GMK > > '97 MMM/4, low 50'sK miles; w/ major electrical $hit happening....... > reminds me of my '89 Saab 900T[urbo] - head gasket at 36Kmi...
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: What would you do? - from Ron Katona
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:50:32 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: What would you do? David Holeman wrote: > In preperation for installing a new motor I removed the motorsport strut brace > and found that the shock towers have taken quite a beating this year. It looks > like the force from the camber plates has creased the top of the shock towers. I see those are the TC Kline plates. I also use those on a '95 with 500# coil-overs and started to see some slight deformation, but not nearly as bad as what you have. Mine was more of a gentle "doming" on one side of the tower than a crease. I was able to correct the deformation by lightly tapping on a block of wood with a dead blow hammer to level the high spot out. Not sure if that will get yours back to shape (YMMV). I also didn't lose any paint. I'd say you definitely want to clean and repaint those towers to prevent further corrosion under the strut bar. Since those early signs of deformation, I installed the '96+ reinforcement ring and a UUC strut brace (Motorsport one should work just the same). With the ring below and the base of the strut brace above, the tower is now sandwiched quite firmly and I haven't seen, heard, or felt, any further signs of deformation in this area. One other thing to look at since you're getting sharp creases is spring rates and ride height. I'm gonna take a wild stab here that your car is lowered about 1.5" or more? Could be that instead of lightly bottoming out on the bump stops, you're getting coil-bind which will impart a huge force on the towers. The deformation I got was more in line with stiff springs and hard driving. Your creases look like a hammering action. If that's the case, then contrary to intuition stiffer springs might actually prevent further damage by preventing this bottoming. You might need longer bump stops if you trimmed them back too much. Shocks might be dead too. In other words, the crease in the tower might be a symptom rather than a disease. Now please don't embarrass me by telling me the suspension is stock except for the plates! :-) The P/N for the ring is: Front Spring Strut Tower Reinforcement 31 31 248 9795 You'll also need the gasket: 31 33 109 4288 -- Ron Katona
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Zymol comment on wax choice... - from JSDONE@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:25:00 EST From: JSDONE@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Zymol comment on wax choice... I do not know how other people are applying the Zymol and there experience on such a product but here's mine...I use the carbon on my 98 M3 (fern green) about every 4 months..I do the HD cleanse once a year. It takes 1 1/2 hours to totally to the application, wipe down and do the final clean-up...The cleanse treatment is a 2 1/2 to 3 hour deal simply because I'm more careful to make sure I get as much coverage and wipe down totally... My car looks "wet" all the time....If you let it haze over it's a total bitch... Do a 2-3 foot square each time... "read the directions"....Use freshly cleaned terrycloth towels, will take to 3 average size towels per application. Cleane towels are the key, will not come off nearly as well with loaded up towels.. Best wax I know of.. Used to use Mcquires....Good stuff but not as good as Zymol... Remember, mine looks "wet".........John
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types - from Wen Liew
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 23:26:38 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wax or other types >I used to use Zainos on my silver M3. Apparently the Zainos stuff is >good >on certain types of paint. With the Glasurit paint, it tends to >cloud up >(at least it did on my car). So I've switched back to Blitz >wax. Maybe someone can explain this but since probably most M3 colors(except Dakar I) are clearcoated, aren't we just cleansing or polishing the clearcoat and never geting down to the UVed paint? I've noticed a nice shine everytime I cleanse the paint (clearcoat) with P21S Cleanser and then applying P21 Concour on my silver M3. However, the finished job still doesn't look as impressive as that on my previous 91 black BMW. With that car, the paint sticks to the polishing cloth and a coat of wax on the "new" paint makes the shine almost as good as new. Wen _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. BMW Wheel Lock Stuck - from Brian Liau
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:57:47 -0600 From: "Brian Liau" <bliau@hotmail.com> Subject: BMW Wheel Lock Stuck I can not for the life of me remove the front driver's side wheel lock. The key will not go in at all. Probably one of the metal tab is stuck. Tried all the following: WD-40, all purpose grease, lightly hammering the key to force it in, used a paper clip to check for debris. Nothing worked. My last resort is to drill it. Is there anything else to try? Brian 97 M3
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] BMW Wheel Lock Stuck - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:12:51 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Wheel Lock Stuck I had them on a 325i of mine once upon a time. Two failed by having the internal spring break into multiple pieces jamming things up. After picking bits out, blasting the hole with high pressure solvent to flush it and sawing the key in and out, I finally got the things off. You might try that approach. I'd never put them on again. Jim Brian Liau wrote: > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:57:47 -0600 > From: "Brian Liau" <bliau@hotmail.com> > Subject: BMW Wheel Lock Stuck > > I can not for the life of me remove the front driver's side wheel lock. > The key will not go in at all. Probably one of the metal tab is stuck. > Tried all the following: WD-40, all purpose grease, lightly hammering > the key to force it in, used a paper clip to check for debris. Nothing > worked. My last resort is to drill it. Is there anything else to try? > > Brian > 97 M3 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************