E36M3 #731

Tuesday, November 28, 2000 09:18:54

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: speedo accuracy - from Ron Buchalski
#2. Adding Negative Camber - from Andrej Dolenc
#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 strut towers - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#4. RE: wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
#5. Gear Ratios - 5 speed VS 6 speed - from Wayne Miller
#6. steering wheel - from Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos
#7. RE: Replacing brake light switch - from Davis, Jake A
#8. mild vibration at 65-75mph--alignment needed? - from Olin, Jason (NIMH)
#9. Re: [E36M3] steering wheel - from Bora Akyol
#10. Re(2): [E36M3] steering wheel - from Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos

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#1. Re: speedo accuracy - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 04:26:54 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: speedo accuracy I think that the OBC registers a very accurate speed reading (as you've confirmed). It's the speedometer that indicates a speed that's too high. Both my E36 M3 and my E34 525iT do this. An indicated 80 mph on the speedometer will actually be 76-77 mph. So, I just drive with the speedo reading 4mph higher than I 'desired', and I'm all set! ;-) -rb >Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:48:09 -0500 >From: lee.leslie@firstunion.com >Subject: speedo accuracy > >There was some talk about bmw purposly making speedo's read fast recently.. > >Over the weekend I put lots of miles on a 2000 528.. I know this sounds >strange, but... at an indicated 85MPH, the computer & my GPS both said >81mph, at an (off by 4), at an indicated 95mph, the computer said 92 & the >gps agreed (off by 3), at an indicated 130mph (as fast as it would go, must >have a limiter there b/c it climbed impressivly the computer said 129 & >again the gps agreed.. (off by 1mph) > >So what is this all about?? I thought that speedo's generally got off more >& more with speed, but this was not the case w/ this car.. & yes I tried it >several times & always got the same numbers in my 1,100 mile weekend >stent.. > >?? > >Lee >97' M3/4 33K _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

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#2. Adding Negative Camber - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 23:38:55 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Adding Negative Camber Ron Katona utters at the very end of a long, informative post: > rather than a disease. Now please don't embarrass me by telling me the > suspension is stock except for the plates! :-) Actually I had a thought just recently of just that - stock suspension, adding plates. Before I even get into explaining why and asking for opinions, I'm sure Ron is hatching schemes resulting in ridiculing me while I'm spewing beer everywhere or something like that.. Anyway.. Just last week I was changing my wheels, putting on the snow tires. The good tires are 17x8.5 Fikse's with 245/40/17 toyo proxes t1-s (street tires). They've been through a season of abuse, a couple of road trips and 2 guys autocrossing the car all season. One guy somewhat fast when the planets all align just right (me), and one of the autocross committee co-chairs who is pretty durn fast. The tires have been rotated a few times, but as it stands now, the outside edge of the tires are worn down to nothing, while the inside edge of the tire has some life left in it. Not much, but some. I don't anticipate stopping autocrossing anytime soon, so I wouldn't mind paying a little $$ to set up the car with some more negative camber. Not outrageous negative camber, the car does still need to stay streetable. But just enough to where I'm getting a little better handling on the auto-x course while extending tire life a bit. As I understand it, there's several options. Please correct my ignorance and add any other suggestions. - camber shims. Not sure if this will be a great solution in my case since these reduce the clearance between the tire and the top of the strut. With the fikse's offset, the tire is awfully close to the strut as it is. - swap the strut tower plates. This adds a fixed amount of negative camber, but does it also affect caster at the same time? If not, then this might be what I'm after. If it does (negatively) affect caster, then it might be: - camber / caster plates. adjust as appropriate. OK, so if I end up doing one of the last two, I'll likely add in adjustable shocks as well, since there's no point in dissasembling the suspension and not adding in something like that. But what's the word / opinions on adding negative camber to our M3's while still keeping it streetable? Sorry for the long winded question, but I appreciate your answers! Andrej '97 M3

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 strut towers - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 23:53:14 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 strut towers Jeremy, I just installed the K-MAC camber plates on my '95 M3. The strut bolts are integrated into the K-MAC plate. I don't see any easy way you will be able to lengthen the studs. Are you sure the K-MAC bolts are too short? I have a JTD strut tower brace and the bolts are almost too long. I'm using the JTD supplied acorn nuts. I don't know how the Racing Dynamics strut bar attaches but I can't imagine it would use up all of the K-MAC threads. (I'm looking at a picture of it in my Bavarian Autosport catalog.) One thing to remember is the strut tower bolts only need to be torqued to 23 lb-ft. That is not very tight. I really don't think you need more than about 3 threads engaged for that little torque. So if the bolts don't completely go through the nut, I think you will be OK. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 BMW CCA #131505

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#4. RE: wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... - from Aswtguy2c@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 04:50:11 EST From: Aswtguy2c@aol.com Subject: RE: wiring harness & DME shot.... oh $hit.... GMK, You're not the only person with this problem. My co-worker at the service Dept. who's a technician worked on an E46 323 (40k miles) and had the same problem. It kept having O2 sensor faults and the previous tech installed new 02 sensors which didn't fix it then replaced the DME but that didn't fix it either. It got to my friend which BMW told him to replace the wiring harness for the oxygen sensors and warranty time for him was like 5 or 6 hours. That fixed it. The customer had this complaint going on for a long time bringing it to the shop more than 5x for the same complaint. He wanted BMW to buy it back as a Lemon but I guess that didn't happen. Guess that still means a ZERO on CSI. Jonathan Caldito

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#5. Gear Ratios - 5 speed VS 6 speed - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 07:23:07 -0500 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Gear Ratios - 5 speed VS 6 speed Does anyone have the gear ratios of a E36 Euro 6 speed and the US 5 speed? My goal here is to determine the MPH/1000 RPM in the highest gear when using a 5 speed with the standard 3.23 ring and pinion and a 6 speed with both the standard 3.23, a 3.38 and 3.73 ring and pinions. In other news, last week I saw a brand spanking new E46 M3 on the showroom floor at the BMW dealer in Bilboa, Spain (where the new Guggenheim Museum is) in a gorgeous dark blue color. I will post the pictures when I get them back. -Wayne

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#6. steering wheel - from Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 14:58:39 +0300 From: jimcob@iis.gr (Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos) Subject: steering wheel Dier Friends, In the last weeks I have noticed that my M3's steering wheel has very poor return feels heavy specially when cornering What do you think ? Regards, Dimitris

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#7. RE: Replacing brake light switch - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 07:51:44 -0600 From: "Davis, Jake A" <Jake.Davis@SW.Boeing.com> Subject: RE: Replacing brake light switch <From: "Brian Liau" <bliau@hotmail.com> <Subject: Help: Replacing Brake Light Switch <I am attempting to replace the brake light switch that is above the brake <pedal. I removed the connector, but I can not seem to pull the switch out <from the metal bracket. I have tried pressing the brake pedal while pulling <on the switch but it doesn't budge. Looking at the part, it is only held in <place by two tabs on each side. So I'm thinking that jiggling it around <would free it from the bracket, but nothing budges. Any ideas? Brian, there's a small white (red?) sleeve that must be pushed 'out' to remove the brake light switch. The sleeve is concentric with the actuator that sticks out of the 'front' of the switch assembly. While pressing the brake pedal, you can use needle nose pliers to slide the sleeve forward (toward the brake pedal). Note that the sleeve doesn't come completely off and you will have to fully extend the actuator as well. A close look at the replacement switch may make this a bit clearer. It's a bit of a royal PITA since I had to lay on my back, push the brake pedal with one hand, move the sleeve with the other, then press the little lock tabs in. One trick that can be used is to let the car idle so the brake pedal can be pushed in easily. If you do this, MAKE SURE the car is in neutral, parking brake is applied and chocks are used so no movement of the car occurs.

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#8. mild vibration at 65-75mph--alignment needed? - from Olin, Jason (NIMH)
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 09:25:26 -0500 From: "Olin, Jason (NIMH)" <jolin@mail.nih.gov> Subject: mild vibration at 65-75mph--alignment needed? The car's got a mild vibration that I feel primarily in the steering column that starts around 65mph and is noticeable through 75mph. It doesn't pull to either side. I've got MMX3's on that were recently balanced. The dealer said the vibration could be due to dent in the wheel, but there's nothing that noticeable to me. It was last given a 4 wheel alignment 2 years ago. Is it time for another one? Feel free to respond to me directly if you think this is irrelevant to the group. Thanks, Jason Olin '97 M3 2-Door jolin@mail.nih.gov

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#9. Re: [E36M3] steering wheel - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 07:05:02 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] steering wheel Tire pressures? At 05:07 AM 11/28/2000, Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos wrote: >Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 14:58:39 +0300 >From: jimcob@iis.gr (Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos) >Subject: steering wheel > >Dier Friends, > >In the last weeks I have noticed that my M3's steering wheel has very >poor return feels heavy specially when cornering >What do you think ? > >Regards, >Dimitris > > > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >************************************************************* Bora Akyol Pluris akyol@pluris.com

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#10. Re(2): [E36M3] steering wheel - from Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos
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Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 17:08:39 +0300 From: jimcob@iis.gr (Dimitris Y. Cobopoulos) Subject: Re(2): [E36M3] steering wheel akyol@pluris.com writes: >Tire pressures? No.. I have already checked ! thanks Dimitris

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