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#1. FS: K&N Drop-In filter + cleaning kit - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 20:09:53 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: FS: K&N Drop-In filter + cleaning kit Cleaning out the garage. For Sale - K&N drop-in filter for E36 M3 (325/328 as well I think) with cleaning kit. Filter has been cleaned but not re-oiled. First $20 gets it, I'll even pay to ship it out to ya! Thanks, Andrej '97 M3
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#2. E36M3 PF90 front pads for sale - from Marc.S.Edwards@questdiagnostics.com
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 17:19:04 -0800 From: Marc.S.Edwards@questdiagnostics.com Subject: E36M3 PF90 front pads for sale Group; I have a set of front PF90 pads that came off of my 1995 M3 LTW for sale. The pads were used for 2 driver schools, one autocross, and about 1000 miles worth of street driving. I seem to be very easy on pads and so there is actually least 90+ % of the pad left. I am selling because I put the Cool Willys' from Turner motorsports back on the car for now. At least that killed the rattle ;-)) I am asking 75$ shipped anywhere in the 48 contiguous United States by UPS ground. Or 70$ for those in the LA area that are interested if you pick up the pads. I am in Granada Hills in the San Fernando Valley. The order of receipt of your e-mail will be the order of consideration. Thanks, Marc Edwards 1995 M3 LTW with Cool Willy's and no more brake rattling
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#3. Advice for replacing Starter? (loooong) - from Jeremy.Thissell@USPTO.GOV
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 21:02:53 -0500 From: Jeremy.Thissell@USPTO.GOV Subject: Advice for replacing Starter? (loooong) Hi All, Here's my situation. 97 328i with about 64k on the clock. Due for an Oil Service (had Insp II about 8k ago). Tried to start the car this morning...nothing. Damn. Tried again, no engine turning over, no clicking, just a screechy whining. Not being an ace mechanic, I tried everything I knew and a couple things I'd never tried before. I checked the oil, and topped it off (about 1/2 quart). Last time something similar happened to me, I actually had the car towed to the dealer, and it ended up starting for them. They checked the plugs and said they were due to be changed, and probably contributed to slow recovery of the plugs after the engine flooded (started then stopped before full warmup). So I figured the plugs might be soaked. I took out each plug, and dried it off and put it all back together (never done that before so I'm pretty proud of that, not that it was all that difficult :-)). Anyways, when I tried starting it again, I still got the same thing. I tried jumping it, just to be sure, but still nothing. Air filter's good too, so I don't know what it is... I called the service department at my local dealer, and based on my description, he said his guess was that it was a bad starter. I checked my service manual, and it said to try putting on the headlights, and trying to start the car, if the lights dimmed then the circuit integrity is good and the problem lies in the starter itself. When I I tried it the lights dimmed as mentioned. The manual also said that if there is no clicking, then the solonoid in the starter is no good. This jives with me not hearing any clicking too. So my best guess is that it is indeed a bad starter. I followed the manual as best I could to see what it would take to replace the starter. Yikes. Could they have put it in a worse place? I feel more confident now that I've tinkered a bit (spark plugs etc. today), but I'm hesitant to take on a job that seems to be kind of involved. Then again, the dealer said that it would be about 2-3 hours labor to replace. Thats $70-100 for towing, + $225 for labor, + parts, so I'm looking at 4-5 bills minimum. I'd like to try to avoid that if possible. All that being said, the manual gives instructions on how to get to the starter. It involves taking out the intake manifold etc. The instructions for taking out the starter refer to the section for removing the intake manifold. The section for taking out the intake manifold has very detailed instructions for taking apart all the components like the Mass air flow meter, airbox, throttle, etc. It also mentions at some point that if you don't need the whole assembly taken apart you can just pull it out in one piece. Depending on how much junk I have to disassemble, I just might be able to tackle this thing, but if I have to take apart the MFM (or HFM, I can't keep 'em straight), the alternator, the throttle connection, etc. (you know, the whole engine bay), then I'm just not confident that I'll be able to get it all back together. On the other hand, if I can just pop off a few nuts and bolts and set the intake system aside (I know it's a BIT more involved than that), I'd be good to go. I'm hoping that I can at least get to the starter to take it out so I can take it to someone to test if it needs replacing. So if any of you guys have ever done this, could you give your assessment of how big a pile of parts will be on my garage floor if I tackle this? I figure it's gotta be a PITA no matter what, but there's a whole range of degree of difficulty there. Sorry this is so long with what is probably too much info, but so often too little info is given and no one can answer the question asked. TIA, -Jeremy 97 328i sport (on the Disabled List) 01 330Ci (replaced the sadly departed 99 M3 coupe) Jeremy Thissell Patent Examiner Art Unit 3763 US Patent Office
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#4. Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? - from Rob
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 20:30:31 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? I know asking for the "best" alignments specs is a loaded question, but what are most guys running for combo street/auto-x/track compromise? I was thinking: Front -2 camber Rear -1.5 camber No idea about what toe to run. Who can help here? My '95 with H&R coil-overs has around -1.8 camber on one side and only -1 on the other side of the front, no idea on the rear. What is the best, cost effective, way to add more camber and even it out side to side? I know there has been a thread on this subject this week but I'm unclear of the advantages/disadvantages of KMAC plates vs Ground Control plates vs Dinan vs adding washers. Thanks everyone, Rob
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#5. Willard (was: wiring harness & DME...) - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 22:43:37 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Willard (was: wiring harness & DME...) George M. Kofman wrote: > that the DME is shot (~1,200). The wiring harness that attaches to the DME > has been damaged ($2250 in parts, 25+ hrs labor). $4-5K worth of stuff. > OUCH !!!!! the car is out of BMW Factory warranty, but in my infinite > wisdom I purchased a Diamond plan from warranty gold. Hope to G-d they > cover it..... > > Soooo, any clues as to how or why this happened ? The BMW shop is clueless. > They have never seen anythinbg on this scale before. When they say the harness "has been damaged," did they go into any detail? Was there physical damage to the insulation that they could point out to you, or are they saying there was some sort of internal short in a connector or something? Could make a big difference. If it was damaged insulation, I've seen that type of damage to wiring harnesses on radar equipment I've worked on. The problem was mice. Mice love electrical insulation. Long shot I know, but do you live in an area that has mice? Ever see a mouse near your garage or home? If you see one, you've got dozens. You'd be surprised at how tiny an area they can squeeze into and the damage they can cause. The fact that the car moves every day might not deter them completely either... stranger things have happened. I also wonder if damage from rodent infestation might be covered in your home owner's policy if you can prove that's what it was. -- Ron Katona
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? - from Matt Malfa
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Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 23:19:41 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa" <matt@shortshifter.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? Scavenged from various postings: http://www.wpi.edu/~vmcmalfa/bmw/align.htm HTH - -Matt << I know asking for the "best" alignments specs is a loaded question, but what are most guys running for combo street/auto-x/track compromise? I was thinking: Front -2 camber Rear -1.5 camber No idea about what toe to run. Who can help here?>>
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#7. E36 ssr competition rims...longish - from jay
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 00:52:39 -1000 From: jay <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: E36 ssr competition rims...longish hey everyone...as some of you may know, i ordered a set of ssr competition rims recently...tire rack told me it was sent out on friday, and it was to be shipped by overnight delivery...anywayz, its 1pm wednesday, and no rims...i call tire rack and ask about my order...the customer service rep puts me on hold and calls fed ex...they say there's been a delay in memphis and fed ex is sorry...they'll make sure i receive my goodies by 4:30pm on wednesday and refund me some freight money...so i see the fed ex truck outside my window at 3pm...whoo hoo! i was in for a shock...i always bought tires from a local shop...this was my first time having wheels and tires shipped to me...i was expecting the wheels to be in boxes...WRONG...they were just the rims and tires (mounted), with cardboard disks on both sides of the rim...what a shocker for me...i never expected that...but the rims were in perfect condition... as for these rims, they weigh 37.5 pounds each with brand new michelin mxx3's in 235/40/17...on the other bathroom scale, they registered 37 pounds (so i have no life...sue me)...these rims look REALLY cool...if you look at pix of these rims, they have a center cap that says "SSR"...they did not come with the center caps...tire rack, and the local speedshop, say there's gonna be a speial center cap with the roundel on it by the end of this year, and tire rack will ship it to me for free when they get'em in...also, the words you see on the rims, "ssr," "competition" and "semi solid forging" are stickers...i was sent only enough to do 2 rims, so i gotta call tire rack tomorrow...not that i'd put 'em on, but in case i change my mind later...anywayz, i proceed to use zaino wax on 'em...nothing like the smell of fresh rubber and zaino in the house... after visitin my mama at her house, i came back home at 9:15pm...decide to put the rims on now, so i can shower right after and i wont need to get dirty tomorrow...do NOT use your stock lug wrench...it wont fit in to the lug bolt recess...my 4-way wouldnt fit either...so i had to bust out my crapsman socket and ratchet (so i dont have snap-on or facom...sue me)...and i proceed to change my rims...all went well until i got to the driver's side rear...the stock wheel did not want to come off...all the bolts came out, but it would not budge...i tried to rock it, shake it, turn it, etc., but it wouldnt budge...and i was getting scared of constantly shaking it, as i was using the stock jack (so i dont have a usa made lincoln jack...sue me...aint i just in a cheery mood???) i finally got it popped off by keeping the lugs on it fingertightened and lowering and raising the car with the stock jack...this took 3 tries to get the rim to break the adhesion to the hub...after that, everyhting was duck soup...can anyone recommended a better solution to this??? the rims look AWESOME on the car- a black 97 M3...it reminds me of those magnesium rims someone had a while back...it really looks good...i'll post pix, or ask someone to do it for me, when i get the film developed...oh, i got the 17x8 rims...theres like 1/4 inch of clearance up front from the tire to the strut...from what i could tell...but the car was jacked up, so i dunno if that makes a difference or not... if you've made it this far, thanx for not just hitting the delete button...and i will be accepting snap on/facom tools, a good jack, or a usa made lincoln jack if anyone is inclined to donate them ;D laterz
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 07:07:26 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Best alignment specs for '95 M3 ? ----- Original Message ----- > I know asking for the "best" alignments specs is a loaded question, but > what are most guys running for combo street/auto-x/track compromise? I was > thinking: > Front -2 camber > Rear -1.5 camber > No idea about what toe to run. Who can help here? Turner Motorsports had these recommended setting for track use: 1/8th total toe out, 2.75 deg camber in front 1/16th toe in, 2.25 deg camber in the rear I'm not sure how well they work for the street but I'd just drop him an email. I've heard that he is very knowledgable and very helpful. > My '95 with H&R coil-overs has around -1.8 camber on one side and only -1 > on the other side of the front, no idea on the rear. > What is the best, cost effective, way to add more camber and even it out > side to side? I know there has been a thread on this subject this week but > I'm unclear of the advantages/disadvantages of KMAC plates vs Ground Control > plates vs Dinan vs adding washers. From what I've heard so far on this list it sounds the the KMAC plates are the ones to have. They have an adjustable range of camber (unlike Dinan), do not require strut removal or even jacking up to adjust (unlike shims), and are isolated (unlike Ground Controls spherical metal bearings). Anybody have anything to add? > Thanks everyone, > Rob Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Delaware, OH
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#9. Wheel frozen on hub(wasE36 ssr competition rims...longish) - from John Stoj
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 06:51:21 -0800 (PST) From: John Stoj <John_Stoj@excite.com> Subject: Wheel frozen on hub(wasE36 ssr competition rims...longish) <snip> all went well until i got to the driver's side rear...the stock wheel did not want to come off...all the bolts came out, but it would not budge... This same thing happened to a friend of mine. I got a call at work - he was trying to change the tire on his 540 and couldn't get the wheel off. I must admit I didn't have any suggestions. - John _______________________________________________________ Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
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#10. Re: [E36M3] E36 ssr competition rims...longish - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 09:59:22 -0600 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 ssr competition rims...longish jay writes: > after visitin my mama at her house, i came back home at 9:15pm...decide to put the rims on > now, so i can shower right after and i wont need to get dirty tomorrow...do NOT use your > stock lug wrench...it wont fit in to the lug bolt recess...my 4-way wouldnt fit > either...so i had to bust out my crapsman socket and ratchet (so i dont have snap-on or > facom...sue me)...and i proceed to change my rims...all went well until i got to the > driver's side rear...the stock wheel did not want to come off...all the bolts came out, > but it would not budge...i tried to rock it, shake it, turn it, etc., but it wouldnt > budge...and i was getting scared of constantly shaking it, as i was using the stock jack > (so i dont have a usa made lincoln jack...sue me...aint i just in a cheery mood???) i > finally got it popped off by keeping the lugs on it fingertightened and lowering and > raising the car with the stock jack...this took 3 tries to get the rim to break the > adhesion to the hub...after that, everyhting was duck soup...can anyone recommended a > better solution to this??? I had the same thing happen to me last week when I went to change off my worn summer tires to snow tires/rims. For me it was the passenger's rear wheel that didn't want to come off. Like you, I tried pushing, pulling, jacking up and down, nothing would get it off. Then I looked around what I had in the garage. Found a piece of a 2x4 and a sledge hammer. So I took the 2x4, put it up against the wheel on the inside, the rest of the 2x4 sticking underneath the car. Take sledge hammer, pound the other end of the 2x4. Watch wheel pop off. Next day I ordered some high temp anti seize paste from Steve D'G which I plan on using on the wheel hub, possibly a few of the lug nuts that can be somewhat hard to get off sometimes. And best of all, no snap-on or facom tools required for this decidedly low tech solution! Andrej '97 M3