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#1. Re: [E36M3] Zen and the Art of M3 Repair - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 16:27:15 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Zen and the Art of M3 Repair > 3. OBC likes to tell me, "1 BRAKE LIGHT FAIL" about once or twice during a > drive. Is this the same as the "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT FAILURE" warning? I've > replaced the brake light bulbs (Third-brake light in wing was failed > sometime ago. Has been replaced). Maybe I should just drop the $10 for the > switch, no? > I replaced the lights also, and it did not help. After much investigation, I found the plastic plug for the rear tail light assembly was just slightly loose, and pushing it in all the way worked. Chris Teague 97 M3/4
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#2. groaning noise under heavy braking - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 20:15:11 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: groaning noise under heavy braking I've been doing several high speed test runs lately, and after the 2nd or 3rd heavy braking (from about 80mph down to 35mph), I start to hear a groaning noise. It seems as if it's coming from the front. The noise appears while I'm braking, and then is present (but at a reduced level) while cruising for a few moments, then goes away. I'm thinking it could be one of the following: 1) wheel bearings 2) tires (MXX3's almost worn out) 3) brakes (Euro floating rotors with stock Jurid pads about 5000miles old) I've checked the wheel bearings and they seem OK. They have no play whatsoever, and spin silently with the car in the air (not even a peep with a stethoscope). The brake rotors are about 1.5 years old, and the pads less than a year old (with plenty of life left in them). The steering wheel doesn't shake during heavy braking, so I don't think the rotors are warped. Would warped rotors make such a groaning noise though? Any ideas as to what it could be? Thanks, Nick '95 M3 turbo
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#3. Re: [E36M3] WTB: 3M Double Sided Tape - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 19:22:40 -0800 From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB: 3M Double Sided Tape > I want to install my newly acquired Kamei eyelids to my M but i can't > seem to find the proper adhesive. Where can i find/order this stuff > from, Home Depot?? You should not used double sided tape, as it will come off over time. The Kamei eyelids (I have them on my 328i) should be put on using the body panel adhesive supplied by Kamei. It's the standard stuff used by body shops to install aftermarket body kits and, if you don't have any, can be picked up at a Pep Boys or other auto parts store. -peterg
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#4. Brake questions - from PDumond21@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 23:30:54 EST From: PDumond21@aol.com Subject: Brake questions I have a '97 M3 and I'm about to change the brake pads. I have a few questions before I get started. Is it a good idea to turn the stock rotors or should I get new ones? If it is recommended to get new rotors, I think I will go with the Euro floating rotors up front, however, what should I do with the rear rotors? Should I stick with stock rear rotors? I also plan on flushing out the brake fluid with ATE super blue racing fluid. How much fluid will I need to do this procedure? What is the best procedure? Will I need a brake bleeder kit? Where is the best source for this? Since I will working on the brakes, how will I know if I need to rebuild the calipers? Is there an obvious sign I need to look for? Also, is it a good idea to switch over to stainless steel brake lines? Which ones are reputable and where can I get some? I am also thinking about painting my calipers. Where is a good source for Folia-Tec paint? How much of this paint will I need to paint all calipers? Is there anything else I should look into changing? Are there any little parts (consumables) that I will need or should change? Thanks for your help. Paul
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#5. Koni Strut Inserts - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 21:40:50 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@pluris.com> Subject: Koni Strut Inserts Are the Koni's drop in replacements or do they require cutting the stock strut assembly? I have heard two different things from "knowledgeable" sources. Thanks Bora
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#6. Chauffer Nurburgring; was [E36M3] Going to DE (not Delaware, either...) - from M Driver
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Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 21:53:20 -0800 (PST) From: M Driver <m3tec@yahoo.com> Subject: Chauffer Nurburgring; was [E36M3] Going to DE (not Delaware, either...) Good info ... > -----Original Message----- > From: jpo@daimlerchrysler.com > Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:11 PM > To: Stoll, Robert (Bob) > Subject: Re: FW: Re: [E36M3] Going to DE (not > Delaware, either...) > > > Dr. Stoll > Tell the guy going to Nurburgring that he can pay > someone to drive him around ze track instead of > doing it himself.....I talked with a guy who > visited last month and he did it that way and loved > it....the driver or chauffeur knew the track very > well and just gassed it!! Unfortunately, the > track was closed twice to scrape off motorbike > racers who splattered themselves....... > > ===== Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Best regards, Bob Stoll 98M34 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#7. shimmy and swapping strut hats - from jay
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Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2000 22:02:38 -1000 From: jay <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: shimmy and swapping strut hats hey everyone...since i got my new rims and tires, i notice a slight shimmy of the steering wheel at 55-60mph...is this common with new tires??? this never happened to me on my other vehicles, but none were refined like the bmw... i figure i need an alignment, but i might as well swap the strut hats and get the alignment done afterwards...it was brought up by others in the past, but i didnt see any responses, so i'm kindly asking again...is there any website that has this procedure in more detail??? are there any specific torque values/tips/hints that i need to know??? thanx for all your help...
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#8. mega light wheel HEADS UP for E36 M3 owners... - from Ben Liaw
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 09:37:35 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: mega light wheel HEADS UP for E36 M3 owners... when we were at SEMA this year, OZ Wheels showed a new wheel which really caught my attention (then again, most wheels catch my attention). see the wheel i'm talking about here: http://www.ozwheels.com/cd4.html knowing full well that it may not be everybody's taste, it *IS* extremely lightweight. the published weights of the 17" version is only 15.4 lbs. and 18" version is 17.62 lbs. they're planning on 17x8 and 18x9 for the E36/E46 fitments, but TireRack has IN STOCK, the 18x8 (the correct size for E36 M3s...i'll get to this in a moment). retail price (according to OZ Wheels) for the 18" was $450, but in typical Tire Rack fashion, they're discounted to a mere $350. The only have 7 sets left. If you like these wheels, i'd suggest you contact Brian at 800-981-3943 x 352. I'm sure they'll go quickly. Tell him UUC sent you (not sure you'll get anything but worth a shot). They're only shipping from their IN warehouse. Ok, a little on wheels on the E36 M3. Whereas there are tons of 17" sizes avialable (7.5", 8", 8.5" and 9"), for 18", you're actually limited by tire size (not wheel width). In 18" tires, choices are limited for ones that provide MAXIMUM tread width with the correct aspect ratio. Whereas a 225/40R18 fits, it's a little skinny on an E36 M3. Also, a 225 looks silly on an 8.5" rim. The best fit would be the 245 on an 8.5" wide rim, as equipped on 96+ M3s. Then, consider the 235 (equipped on the 95 M3 on 7.5" wide rims). Most know that the rims were a little too skinny for the 235, but they worked. The 96+ fitment of 225 fits much more neutral on the 7.5" wide rim. So, the best is an 8" wide rim. Fortunately, the OZ is 18x8 (and not 8.5). The near perfect size is 235/35R18 (-1% too small) as the 235/40R18s (2.8% too big) is not as good a match. A 245 you ask? They'd be too fat for the front, and fit a little funny on the 8" wide rim. Plus, they don't make a 245/35R18 (which would be only +0.1% bigger than a 245/40R17 in comparision) Besides the increase in cost of 18" tires, the sizes are limited. As i mentioned, you can use the 225/40R18, but you're giving up some avialable grip. In this size, Tire Rack shows 33 tires as little as $140 each. In the better sized, 235/35R18, Tire Rack shows a whopping 3 choices, starting at $222 (of course, my dry tire favoriate, the MXX3). Last note, not all 18" tire/wheel upgrades need to be compromises in weight (for cosmetic gains). a stock M Contour wheel and tire weighs just south of 50 lbs. (around 48 lbs.), where as this OZ Superleggra and MXX3 (23 lbs. only) combo will weigh close to just 40 lbs, a near 30 lbs. total savings in rotating weight on a E36 M3. ben ------------------------------------------- ben liaw - ben@shortshifter.com http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
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#9. Exhaust - from Ed Tang
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 06:50:41 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Exhaust Sean wrote: >and i think, if you're in the "speed hunt", with your >M3 you oughta look to just about everywhere else >before you look at exaust. (chips, intakes, HFMs, >driver schools, etc, etc) if you've done everything >else, and want a small (<5 probably, <10 for sure) >boost then get an exaust. but i'd definetly do it >last. I talked to a mechanic a while ago and he told me that I should get an exhaust b/c I had the JC intake. He said that the intake may be detrimental if I do not have the proper flow to match the increased intake flow. I am still on the stock exhaust. I had my head gasket replaced b/c of slight bleeding, however, the minor bleeding was there before the intake was on. Otherwise I've had no problems. How much relevance does this guy's argument have? I bought the chip in conjunction with the intake so I assume those types of issues are addressed. At least I hope so. Does this guy have a ggod point? Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#10. Got my Eibachs over the weekend and Hawaii pics - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 09:04:39 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Got my Eibachs over the weekend and Hawaii pics Hi guys. First, the link to the Hawaii pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=838931&Auth=false Let me know what you think! I picked up my Eibachs over the weekend and installed them. While under the car, my AA exhaust was dropped in order to send it for repairs (cracked tips...the gen III tips should look awesome, though). The stock sways came off and the Eibachs mounted perfectly. No fitment issues...there was even more clearance between the rear sway bar and the output shafts (the ones connecting the diff to the wheel hub...I think that's what they're called) than the UUC bars. As some may remember, at one point I had the UUC bars on my car and wasn't particularly impressed with the claimed properties of the bars nor was I impressed with the handling. Here's what I noticed about the UUC sways as I cleaned them to ship off to their new owner: - The polyurethane bushings have these tiny grooves from end to end to supposedly carry lube. These grooves are so tightly spaces and are so narrow that, combined with the bushing's hardness, appeared to have cut into the zinc finish of the bars. So what I had on the bars were these <1 mm spaced shiny bare metal with <1mm of dull finish (the zinc coating). I believe this was what ultimately contributed to the nasty squeaking that I was experience before it drove me up the wall and I had to rip them off my car. - Upon inspection of the bushings, I noticed that the narrow ridges were crushed from all the load. Would this lead to the introduction of more play since the hole would be bigger than the original machined size. Having the ridges crush under the tremendous load negates what it was originally designed to do--carry lube. - When I first installed the UUC bars, I noticed that when mounted up (end links not connected), it was difficult making the bar pivot by hand. I figured that a mere 20 lb force is in no way near the forces the bars would see while driving around. When I took the bars off, the bars squeaked like crazy. It was actually quite fun to pull up and down on the bar and hear the creaking...it was like playing a squeaking door. - The first thing I noticed when taking the Eibachs out of the box were the bushings. These bushings were a little softer than the UUC ones but the design to hold the lube was definitely different. Think of boring a hole through, say cheese. There are then three longitudinal slots that hold the lube. The design, at least to me, should hold grease well, resist crushing under the extreme load, and not dig into the powder coat finish. I like the design of these bushings a lot. - I did notice that once I mounted the bars, it was easy and very smooth to pull up and down on the bar (with the end links not attached yet). - The bars were beautiful. A nice smooth red powder coat finish. - The rear end link hardware is your basic BMW OE links with a oversized sleeve pressed into one end to accomodate for the large bolt that goes through the rear sway bar and the link itself (the factory design has a small road sticking out of the side of the rear sway bar that the bushings slips over). The links were a perfect fit for these bars. Not tedious adjusting or fearing that a lock nut would work itself loose over time. Mounted a stock exhaust back on the car and lowered it. I had my Pilot Sports on for testing....changed them yesterday to the snows =( The car feels extremely sharp now....like Jim El Nabli's with the AC Schnitzer bars (rebadged Eibachs). Turn in is ultra precise and very responsive...none of the sluggishness I felt with the UUC bars. Property/Attribute Eibach UUC Bushing design X Ease of installation/adjustment X Fitment X Finish X Bang/Buck X Handling improvement X Not sure why the handling characteristics feel different if they are supposed to be virtually the same. Believe what you want to about the 10% difference in stiffness being negligible (between 26mm and 25.4mm, etc, etc). All I know is that a) my car handles much better, b) no squeaking (it is understood that yearly maintenance is required to relube the bushings, but don't advertise that zinc eliminates squeaking when it doesn't or wears out), and c) fits darn well (what was that about fitment issues with '99 M3s?). Who would have known???....it wasn't *just my car*. FWIW, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/