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#1. FS/E36 M3 Parts - from ClassiGuy3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 22:34:55 EST From: ClassiGuy3@aol.com Subject: FS/E36 M3 Parts The following are for sale: from a 95 M3 - Euro clear lights set of 6= $250 -Bilsteins/ HR springs, sports= $650 only 800 miles. -Floating rotors= $100 - Set of 4 ,18' bbs RC polished w/pilots 2353518 only 4k miles= $2200 All Prices DO NOT include shipping. items located in ny area.
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#2. Re: [uuc] TCC at Sears Point (part 1) - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 20:19:59 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [uuc] TCC at Sears Point (part 1) Kit was tearing up the track! "Darty" ?!? We swapped cars (with owner as passenger) for the parade session, and I kept asking him, "How the hell can you drive so fast in this??" He says after an S2000, everything else feels stable. :) Thanks for letting me drive it, though - I fell in love with Guido all over again afterwards. :) Sears really was yucky. It was cold-greasy in the morning, then one good sticky session before the tires got hot-greasy (which is more fun, but doesn't help lap times). I've been careful in turn 2 since the construction took all the runoff away, but wasn't prepared for the wet spot at the bottom of the Carousel in the bridge's shadow. Yikes! I think it's easier in full rain than spotty. BTW, kiddies... a reminder to check the lug torque - a Quattro lost its right front wheel in the Carousel. Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > > Had a fun weekend at Sear's Point in my M3! Nice to meet Jim Bassett > and Donna Seeley, (and thanks for letting me drive your car, Donna...) > That track is extremely fun to drive, and very technical. After some > pointers, (thanks Jim!) I think I was turning pretty decent lap times. > > H&R coilovers: > <snip> They fit fine, no rubbing on the > fenders or the suspension bits, but the steering is *really* darty. :( > Donna felt it, on a 55mph parade lap, if I hit any bumps or uneven > surfaces, the steering wheel wants to jerk out of my hand. I didn't > really notice how bad is was until I drove Donna's car and realized that > her steering wheel didn't try to rip my fingers off my hands when I > touched a curb. Darn. >
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#3. Re: Build Dates - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 23:25:05 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: Build Dates Here is an old post by Jim Conforti. Jim claims to own (or did own) the last of the early build '95 M3's - aka '94 M3's. I think the last of the early '95's was produced in 8/94. There are subtle differences between 8/94 M3's and later build dates. The fuel filter for one. If you have a 8/94 M3 or older, you have my sympathies. The fuel filter is a bitch to change. On a different note, what is the build date of the last '95 M3? Were there any produced in 12/95? I've seen 11/95 but none after that. Lowell Seaton 9/95 M3 # EH07475 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------ Subj: Re: [E36M3] VIN number vs date of manufacture Date: 2/7/99 10:47:59 PM Central Standard Time From: lndshrk@xmission.com (Land Shark) Sender: owner-e36m3@Mailing-List.net To: john_pease123@yahoo.com (John Pease), E36M3@Mailing-List.net At 08:35 PM 2/7/99 -0800, John Pease wrote: >My DME box has VIN number WBSBF9321SEH01060 printed on it. I believe >the last 6 characters are some sort of manufacturing date code. When I >check Roundel for-sale ads, I have yet to spot a VIN with a lower date >code number than mine. Can anyone tell me what approximate date of >manufacture I can assign to this date code? It's not a "date code" it's your chassis number "EH01060" The chassis numbers for the original 2000 1995 M3's start at EH00001 and end at EH02000.. the last one SOLD of the original 2000 is supposedly EH01944 (not the last#, but the last released for sale to the selling dealer) from Port Hueneme to BMW of Murray.. and I own it ;) Jim PS: The first one sold went to then CCA president Dave Farnsworth and I *think* it's EH00003, an Avus Blue one.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Misfire/NGK v. Bosch Spark Plugs - from M Driver
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Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2000 21:07:06 -0800 (PST) From: M Driver <m3tec@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Misfire/NGK v. Bosch Spark Plugs Neil, What is your engine temp. at the end of your drive cycle ? Neither plug is good for your situation. From what you indicate and I assume, you are not getting the engine up to operating temperature. Bad. Bursts to redline on a cold engine ... horrors ... Maybe thats why it is called an Italian Tune-up ? Very bad. I am curious, what calibration level is in your DME ? Get it re-flashed to the latest (18 ?). It has improved my car's cold-start roughness. hth, --- NSimon1111@aol.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 13:31:45 EST > From: NSimon1111@aol.com > Subject: Misfire/NGK v. Bosch Spark Plugs > > I'm having a problem with occassional misfiring > triggering the "Check Engine" light on my 99 M > Coupe. The misfire is likely due to frequent short > distance, stop and go driving and is easily cured by > a quick Italian tune-up (ie, a couple bursts to > redline). BMW installs two different 4-electrode > platinum plugs -- NGK BKR5 and Bosch 4417. Which is > best? ===== Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Best regards, Bob Stoll 98M34 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#5. RE: [E36M3] TCC at Sears Point (part 1) - from Richard Biscevic
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Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 22:04:11 -0800 From: Richard Biscevic <biscevic@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] TCC at Sears Point (part 1) Before figuring out where a braking point is you have to understand a number of things. One of which is the goal the driver is seeking. Kit was in a time trial trying to get his lap times down and couldn't afford the time to float over the crest. When you're trying to improve lap times, the instances where you're not on the brake with a high degree of pressure or working the throttle to (or holding at) WOT are very rare. During a school you're approach is correct (AND IS PREFERRED) as you're not trying to inch everything you can out of the car; there's nothing to gain. But if you're in a competition it's up to your comfort level. Coming over the crest into 6 there is quite a hump. Some cars will get rear wheel spin in fourth gear before getting hard on the brakes. If you carry enough speed and hit the brakes at this crest the car will jump to the side if you aren't at the absolute correct angle. So Kit: Mark has a point. If the car is dancing, you're not doing something right. Either find the right angle or hit the brakes later if you're going for lap times! ;-) If you (in general) are in a driving school, take it easy and save your car (and yourself) for the next time trial/race. There is no need to take that level of risk at a school and it is discouraged. There are very few places at Sears where an off won't do much damage. The trick to lapping quickly is understanding where those places are so that if something goes wrong, you have some margin to save yourself. Turn 6 is not one of those places. You really can't afford to miss your braking point going into turn 6. All the wrong parts of the track are there to ruin your day. So heed Mark's advise and use caution. -Rich --------------- Mark wrote: ---------- Kit wrote: > The only time the car felt a bit loose was coming into the > carousel. I'd hit the brakes right as I'd crest the hill, > and the rear end would scoot over a few feet. That is NOT the right place to hit the brakes at the Sears Point carousel! If the car is dancing, you're doing something wrong. Brake BEFORE the crest. You can choose to brake after the crest, but you have to wait until the suspension compresses and that doesn't leave you enough time to turn in smoothly. I usually do most of my braking before the crest, float over the crest, and finish the last 20% after. There are a couple of places where you can make a very expensive mistake at Sears, and the carousel is one of them. It's not as bad as Turn 10, though
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#6. WTB - Euro headlights + questions - from Rob
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 01:27:55 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: WTB - Euro headlights + questions I'm looking for a pair of Euro headlights and have a few questions: -Are the lights that all the vendors sell the same? What about install kits? -Can a pair be bought for $350 anywhere? Best shop to call? -Are they that much better than the crappy stock ones? Thanks, Rob - Can't drive over 80mph at night before it becomes dangerous!
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#7. Re: [E36M3] M3 LTW Rear Wing at Hendrick BMW - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 06:55:43 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 LTW Rear Wing at Hendrick BMW ----- Original Message ----- > If your interested, give Rob a call 800-476-8522. Rob said you can talk > to Bruce if he's not available. Sorry typo, the number is 800-476-8322. Jeremy
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#8. Re: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions - from F. Graziano
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 07:45:18 -0500 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions Classiguy3@aol.com is still selling his set i believe. I bought Kamei eyelids from him already, very easy purchase, no nonsense. Check it out. Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 7:33 AM Subject: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions > Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 01:27:55 -0700 > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > Subject: WTB - Euro headlights + questions > > I'm looking for a pair of Euro headlights and have a few questions: > > -Are the lights that all the vendors sell the same? What about install kits? > -Can a pair be bought for $350 anywhere? Best shop to call? > -Are they that much better than the crappy stock ones? > > Thanks, > Rob - Can't drive over 80mph at night before it becomes dangerous! > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 05:13:26 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend > >no squeaking (it is understood that yearly maintenance is required to > >relube the bushings, but don't advertise that > > I wrapped my "rebadged Eibachs" with teflon tape before installing the > silicone grease oozing bushings. It's been more than a year now and I have > yet to hear a squeak. This time around, I used a liberal amount of high viscosity bushing grease. I heard about the teflon tape and will do it during the next maintenane routine. However, I don't see how that trick could be used for UUC's front swaybar bushings. They are so stiff that it was a chore just to get them over the bar. I would imagine that you would rip apart all the teflon tape in the process. Well, unless you have super human strength and a good kung fu grip. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] mega light wheel HEADS UP for E36 M3 owners... - from Daniel
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 08:55:26 -0800 (PST) From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] mega light wheel HEADS UP for E36 M3 owners... 245/35/18 will fit nicely on a 18x8.5 wheel with a max 40mm offset on a stock or lowered suspension Dan --- Josh <M3@MotorSportPower.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2000 13:43:10 -0500 > From: Josh <M3@MotorSportPower.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] mega light wheel HEADS UP for > E36 M3 owners... > > > "A 245 you ask? They'd be too fat for the front, > and fit a little funny on > > the 8" wide rim. Plus, they don't make a > 245/35R18 (which would be only > > +0.1% bigger than a 245/40R17 in comparision)" > > 245/35-18 fits no problem in the front even dropped > on Race springs and even on > 18 x 8.5 wheels. You need a 35mm offset or smaller > and some additional negative > camber. Saying 245 looks funny on an 8" rim is > subjective. Some people like a > small tire that's stretched on a wide rim and others > like a tire that provides a > little lip over the rim to protect it. 245/35-18 is > available in a Pzero, > Goodyear Eagle F1 and a variety of competition > tires. > > > Josh > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#11. Fog Lights Will Not Activate - from Brian Liau
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 11:37:47 -0600 From: "Brian Liau" <bliau@hotmail.com> Subject: Fog Lights Will Not Activate Fog lights will not turn on. This happened just two days ago, but before that they worked just fine. I usually leave the fog lights on when my headlights are on. I have fog light protectors so it's not a cracked fog light or bulb failure. Doesn't seem like the bulbs are damaged or burned out, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Could it be a broken switch? Burned fuse? Double check the bulbs? Any help is appreciated. Brian Liau 97 M3