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#1. Re: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 14:10:15 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend Chester wrote > This time around, I used a liberal amount of high viscosity bushing grease. I heard about the teflon tape and will do it during the next maintenance routine. However, I don't see how that trick could be used for UUC's front swaybar bushings. They are so stiff that it was a chore just to get them over the bar. I would imagine that you would rip apart all the teflon tape in the process. Well, unless you have super human strength and a good kung fu grip. I must have super human strength and a good kung fu grip then. Actually, I did use teflon tape on my UUC swaybars and then loaded up the bushings with white lithium grease. I had to be careful when spreading the bushings to put them on the bars. I would say, more than anything, the bushings are not to bad to spread if you don't get grease all over the place and have to try to spread the bushings with greasy hands/tools. Spreading the bushings was easy in comparison with removing/reinstalling the rear links. Must have scraped every knuckle. Next time it will be easier (live and learn as a shadetree mechanic). Also....NO squeaks yet (after a couple of driving schools as well)!! I know a lot has been said recently about the Eibach bars and the UUC bars. I happen to like my UUC anti-roll bars very well (otherwise stock suspension), especially after the driving schools where you really get an opportunity to put them to work. On street driving (within limits as I do not treat the street as a race track), I can barely tell any difference because it is difficult to introduce much roll in the car body without being more extreme. I am curious when certain people have said how much difference they feel on a short drive on the street. This may be the butt-dyno phenomena getting in the way. YMMV. Best regards, Rich
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#2. Re: TCC at Sears Point (part 1) - from Scott Smith
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Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 11:20:38 -0800 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: Re: TCC at Sears Point (part 1) Donna Seeley said: > BTW, kiddies... a reminder to check the lug torque - a Quattro lost its > right front wheel in the Carousel. I thought that his hub/spindler sheared off? I heard someone say that his wheel, brake disc, and caliper was still intact sitting on the side of the track... (keep in mind this guy "tracked out" at turn 2 in the previous session and trashed the left side of his car) Scott '97 M3/4 '96 911TT
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#3. Re: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 11:28:29 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions I got mine from Josh and he supplied an awesome install kit and 100w bulbs. I forget how much it cost but it was someplace in the 3's if I remember right. I like them, but they are much different. Unfortunately, I don't get to use the high beams much as there always seems to be cars around, no matter time of day. low beams have a definite cutoff. There is light below, but none above. The line is horizontal starting from left site, and then goes off at a 45 degree angle up on the right. highs are just damn bright. Not only can you see the road at night, you can see every single crack in the road for the enxt 1/4 mile in front of you. awesome. where are you located? I can give demo if youu are in bay area. Jason On Tue, 5 Dec 2000, Rob wrote: > Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 01:27:55 -0700 > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > Subject: WTB - Euro headlights + questions > > I'm looking for a pair of Euro headlights and have a few questions: > > -Are the lights that all the vendors sell the same? What about install kits? > -Can a pair be bought for $350 anywhere? Best shop to call? > -Are they that much better than the crappy stock ones? > > Thanks, > Rob - Can't drive over 80mph at night before it becomes dangerous! > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#4. WTB: Left (driver's side) fog light - from Wen Liew
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Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 19:33:17 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: WTB: Left (driver's side) fog light While driving home in my "Millenium Falcon", I hit some space garbage on the freeway and it took out my fog light. If anyone has one laying around after removing to let more air in, I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands. Lens must not be cracked. ;-) 96 M3/2 - felt faster this morning. _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Fog Lights Will Not Activate - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 14:43:13 -0500 From: George R Carr Jr <georgecarrjr@rmi.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fog Lights Will Not Activate >Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 11:37:47 -0600 >From: "Brian Liau" <bliau@hotmail.com> >Subject: Fog Lights Will Not Activate > >Fog lights will not turn on. This happened just two days ago, but >before that they worked just fine. I usually leave the fog lights on >when my headlights are on. I have fog light protectors so it's not a >cracked fog light or bulb failure. Doesn't seem like the bulbs are >damaged or burned out, but I'm not 100% sure about that. > >Could it be a broken switch? Burned fuse? Double check the bulbs? Any >help is appreciated. > >Brian Liau >97 M3 > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >************************************************************* Fuses. And check your high beam fuses. When I burned two 5 amp fuses on my high beams with the Euro/100Watt bulbs my fog lights quit working until I replaced the fuses. On the other hand, I believe you should NOT be driving with the fog lights on with any other traffic. -- ========================== georgecarrjr@rmi.net
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#6. Re: [uuc] Re: TCC at Sears Point (part 1) - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2000 11:47:51 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: TCC at Sears Point (part 1) Yes, Kit told me that after my post. So no cause-and-effect; disregard the warning or check the lugs on general principles. Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> > > > Donna Seeley said: >> BTW, kiddies... a reminder to check the lug torque - a Quattro lost its >> right front wheel in the Carousel. > > I thought that his hub/spindler sheared off? I heard someone say that > his wheel, brake disc, and caliper was still intact sitting on the > side of the track... > > (keep in mind this guy "tracked out" at turn 2 in the previous session > and trashed the left side of his car) > > Scott > '97 M3/4 > '96 911TT
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 12:38:30 -0800 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Got my Eibachs over the weekend > However, I don't see how that trick could be used for UUC's front swaybar > bushings. They are so stiff that it was a chore just to get them > over the bar. > I would imagine that you would rip apart all the teflon tape in > the process. > Well, unless you have super human strength and a good kung fu grip. Actually, it's pretty easy, if you know a trick or two (my thanks to Lew Becker, I believe, for the tip). The trick was to use increasingly bigger box wrenches to open the front bushing to slip them over the sway bars - this worked great, and as Lew indicated, reduced the risk of jabbing oneself with a screwdriver. (I wrote this in my "Impressions" post several months ago.) I've got both bars wrapped in teflon tape, and used a Mobil 1 grease for packing the bushings. Been on the car for 6 months (approx. 20,000 miles) - no squeaks <knock on wood>. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - wheel bearings & cat. making noise, but not the swaybars :-)
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#8. RE: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 13:05:05 -0800 From: "Jim Bassett" <jbassett@mayannetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] WTB - Euro headlights + questions > -Are the lights that all the vendors sell the same? I believe the lights are either made by ZKW or Hella. > What about > install kits? Bekkers Imports lists an install kit at additional cost - dunno what's in it. Josh at Eurosport has, IMO, the most complete install kit, including all that's needed if you wish to run 100W bulbs. > -Can a pair be bought for $350 anywhere? Best shop to call? Probably closer to $400 w/installation kit. But I haven't bought any in nearly 2 years, so I can't say for certain. I would highly recommend calling Josh at Eurosport, though. > -Are they that much better than the crappy stock ones? OH YEAH! :-) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - you can see installation tips/info at my web site: http://members.home.net/jimbassett/ -> "BMW Stuff" -> "European Ellipsoid Headlights"
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#9. Street Alignment Questions - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 16:06:03 -0600 From: "Davis, Jake A" <Jake.Davis@SW.Boeing.com> Subject: Street Alignment Questions Ok, I'll apologize in advance, I know this topic has been kicked around many, many times. But I'm gonna ask anyway. Getting ready to do some front end work so an alignment will be needed afterward. Here's my idea so you guys can tell me how far off I am. Car and usage: 1995 M3/2... 95% street usage. Quite a bit of spirited driving. Not looking for the hot autocross or track setup, but something that is liveable and 'affordable' (tire budget ain't that big). Quite a bit of 70-80 mph hiway cruise also. Plans: 96 upper strut bushings swapped for extra .5 degree negative camber. Front toe-in 1/16 to 1/8 inch Rear toe-in 1/8 inch Rear camber: 1.5 degrees. Should I weight the car per BMW recommendations (what is it, 150 lb in driver's seat, 150 in passenger seat, 150 in trunk?), plunk myself in driver seat or no weight. Thanks for your forebearance. Jake Davis
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#10. Mystery "clunk" coming from front of M3/4 - from Heckendorf, David
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Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2000 17:19:01 -0500 From: "Heckendorf, David" <DHeckendorf@broadband.att.com> Subject: Mystery "clunk" coming from front of M3/4 Hey all, I know this is probably not going to be easy; but, I'm trying to track-down a "clunk" that has developed in the front (I believe it's suspension related)... It occurs when I encounter uneven pavement/bumps/dips/etc... I put it up on the jack last night figuring that it was the sway bar/links, no luck... They were solid as rocks (unless they get loose when the suspension is loaded; but, the connections looked and felt tight as the day I put them on... I also checked the X-Brace, it was tight as well; but again this is with the suspension un-loaded, do we suppose that would make any difference? If so, any suggestions how one would keep the wheels on the ground and still be able to crawl under this thing?? Any other ideas/sources?? Thx!!, Dave