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#1. Re: [E36M3] '96 strut mounts on a '95 M3? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 16:55:24 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] '96 strut mounts on a '95 M3? Here is a post Bob Tunnell sent to the list in response to a very similar question I asked regarding my '95 M3 [edited slightly] Lowell Seaton Dallas, Texas ------------------------------------------------------------------- Anyway... We're dealing with two different types of cars and two different types of strut hats. The '95 cars are different from the '96+ cars and the '95 hats are different from the '96+ hats. Be careful not to confuse them. Plus, lets be sure we're talking about "swapping" the hats from side to side and not "rotating" them 120 degrees because *very* different results will occur. - 95 hats are symmetrical in that the bearing is centered in the longitudinal plane. Swapping them from side to side on a 95 car should have no effect on camber or caster. - 96+ hats are offset in the longitudinal plane and swapping them side to side on a 96+ car will increase negative camber in a 96 car by approx. 1 degree, but should have no effect on caster. - Installing 96+ hats on a 95 car in the "correct" sides (they're marked "L" and "R") should *decrease* negative camber by approx 1/2 degree, while installing them on the "incorrect" side of the car should *increase* negative camber by approx 1/2 degree. Neither installation should affect caster. - *Rotating* hats (either type of hat on any year of car) 120 degrees so that the bearing moves toward the centerline of the car will greatly increase negative camber and reduce caster. I don't know how much because I don't do it and I don't recommend it. I'm not saying it's a bad thing to do and I'm sure others on this list can vouch for its usefulness, but I can't. These are very general guidelines and manufacturing tolerances vary widely on different cars so YMMV.
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#2. Upper strut bearing swaps - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 16:06:40 -0600 From: "Davis, Jake A" <Jake.Davis@SW.Boeing.com> Subject: Upper strut bearing swaps The following info should help out. I was able to get confirmation on this from reliable sources (Jame Clay at bimmerworld and Bob Tunnell) I'll be doing this swap on my 95 hopefully next week. I'll let ya know what I get. The '95 cars are different from the '96+ cars and the '95 hats are different from the '96+ hats. Be careful not to confuse them. Plus, lets be sure we're talking about "swapping" the hats from side to side and not "rotating" them 120 degrees because *very* different results will occur. - 95 hats are symmetrical in that the bearing is centered in the longitudinal plane. Swapping them from side to side on a 95 car should have no effect on camber or caster. - 96+ hats are offset in the longitudinal plane and swapping them side to side on a 96+ car will increase negative camber in a 96 car by approx. 1 degree, but should have no effect on caster. - Installing 96+ hats on a 95 car in the "correct" sides (they're marked "L" and "R") should *decrease* negative camber by approx 1/2 degree, while installing them on the "incorrect" side of the car should *increase* negative camber by approx 1/2 degree. Neither installation should affect caster. - *Rotating* hats (either type of hat on any year of car) 120 degrees so that the bearing moves toward the centerline of the car will greatly increase negative camber and reduce caster. I don't know how much because I don't do it and I don't recommend it. I'm not saying it's a bad thing to do and I'm sure others on this list can vouch for its usefulness, but I can't. Good idea at replacement time on a 95: add the 96+ Front Spring Strut Tower Reinforcement p/n 31 31 248 9795 You'll also need the gasket: p/n 31 33 109 4288. These will set you back about $20.00 for two sets. It is a metal piece that is bolted in between the strut hat and the bottom of the strut tower along with a gasket.
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#3. Re: Transmission removal question - from Roger Baker
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 14:11:59 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: Transmission removal question If you can fit under the car comfortably to do work, you should be able to get the tranny out. I don't have the exact height from the last couple of times I have done it, but I think it is around 18-20" high (jackstand height when used on stock pad locations). The little "mini" jack stands don't usually go this high, but the medium ones will do it with room to spare. Roger Baker dholeman@spooze.com wrote: > Hi, > > I do not have a lift but may need to remove my transmission. Using Jack Stands I wondered how high I need to jack up the car to get the transmission out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. > > David
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#4. Wanted: 225/40/18 Dunlop SP Sport 8000 - from dahermann@alum.mit.edu
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 17:38:26 -0500 (EST) From: dahermann@alum.mit.edu Subject: Wanted: 225/40/18 Dunlop SP Sport 8000 They don't make 'em anymore, I can't find them in stock anywhere, and I had a blowout. I'd rather not have to buy two new tires if possible. Should have decent tread remaining. dan 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post - from Bob Dorchester
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 17:04:05 -0600 From: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post My 95 M3 (4/94 prod/ 65k miles) has the same "problem", but I don't recall when I first noticed it. I Euro-sharked it 2 years ago, and am fairly certain the condition existed pre-sharking. It hasn't affected drivability or performance at all, so for now, I have ignored it. But I don't feel the shudder, only hear it when near the tailpipe. Bob Dorchester Houston > Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 12:24:39 -0700 > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > Subject: Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post > > My '95 M3 w/36k miles has a bad miss/stumble at idle. The car will > idle perfectly and then all of a sudden give a quick miss at varying > intervals, if you are sensitive, as I am, you actually feel the entire car > shudder momentarily. It could be every 2 seconds and then not for 10 > seconds, very strange. The engine is 100% stock and I just replaced the air > filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil change and ran a bottle of injector > cleaner through it. This is NOT the hunting idle associated with a bad idle > stabilizer, nor a lumpy idle that you'd get with a big cam. Any ideas? > > Rob
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#6. Fog Lights - from Danny Mok
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 16:13:31 -0800 From: Danny Mok <DMok@pcyc.com> Subject: Fog Lights Hi folks, It's time to replace my cracked fog lights. They still work, but just the cracked lenses ruin the look of M3 look. Should I go by OEM or any other alterative? I am worrying about the OEM lenses crack all the time. Thanks in advance. Danny 99 White M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post - from Rob Hatrak
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 16:16:27 -0800 From: "Rob Hatrak" <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post My M3 has done this since the day I took delivery. My technician told me it is quite normal, and called it a "lean surge." I don't know what that means, but I wouldn't be worried about it. Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Dorchester" <rjdorche@concentric.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 3:42 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post > Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 17:04:05 -0600 > From: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post > > My 95 M3 (4/94 prod/ 65k miles) has the same "problem", but I don't recall when I first noticed it. I Euro-sharked it 2 years ago, and am fairly certain the condition existed pre-sharking. It hasn't affected drivability or performance at all, so for now, I have ignored > it. But I don't feel the shudder, only hear it when near the tailpipe. > > Bob Dorchester > Houston > > > Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 12:24:39 -0700 > > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > > Subject: Bad miss/stumble at idle?? - 2nd post > > > > My '95 M3 w/36k miles has a bad miss/stumble at idle. The car will > > idle perfectly and then all of a sudden give a quick miss at varying > > intervals, if you are sensitive, as I am, you actually feel the entire car > > shudder momentarily. It could be every 2 seconds and then not for 10 > > seconds, very strange. The engine is 100% stock and I just replaced the air > > filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil change and ran a bottle of injector > > cleaner through it. This is NOT the hunting idle associated with a bad idle > > stabilizer, nor a lumpy idle that you'd get with a big cam. Any ideas? > > > > Rob
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#8. Paging Donna and all pit bunnies - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 16:43:32 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Paging Donna and all pit bunnies Just checking, will a ruby and diamond (2 carat) tennis bracelet make it all even-up for a set of Recaro Pole Position seats? I just want to make sure I bring a big enough sacrifice to SWMBO. Jim
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#9. RE: Transmission removal question - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 19:55:38 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: RE: Transmission removal question This project can be done in a home garage with jack stands, but it's not for the faint of heart. First, you need to use the largest, heaviest jack stands you can find -- I mean the "jack stands for trucks" type. You will end up with your entire body under the car and if the jack stands don't hold, you're toast. You must put all four corners on jack stands. Don't even think about doing this project with only one end of the car raised. Also, make damn sure that the jack stand arms are securely locked in place. You will need to raise the car as high as your floor jack and the jack stands will allow so that you have enough clearance to crawl under the car on your back. When you get ready to pull the transmission backward off the engine or bell-housing, you need to be prepared to deadlift the thing and lower it as if you are bench pressing 100 lbs. It helps to have two people under the car to lower it. The absolute best solution is to use a good transmission jack under the transmission so that you can slide the transmission onto the jack and then lower it to the ground. Again, this takes a lot of clearance to get the jack under the transmission and still have room to slide it out when the transmission is lowered. Bottom line: Unless you are accustomed to pulling and reinstalling gearboxes, this is one project best left to a pro. HTH, Bob Stommel >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: 8 Dec 2000 10:35:31 -0800 From: dholeman@spooze.com Subject: Transmission removal question Hi, I do not have a lift but may need to remove my transmission. Using Jack Stands I wondered how high I need to jack up the car to get the transmission out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. David
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#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 17:12:54 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question I completely agree on the jackstand thing. make sure they are secure. I've only done gearbox changes on my 2002, but I had to shake that thing back and forth quite a bit to disengage it from the motor. I also found that a regular old crap screw type jack worked well. my hydraulic jack sucked because it has this big handle and it also sinks over time. the screw one was light and nice and easy. Not sure about the M3 gearbox. Bigger and heaver than the 2002... What I did with 2002 (this may not work for M3) was to use the screw jack to take all the weight of the gearbox off the crossmember in the transmission tunnel. removed crossmember and last of the bolts on the transmission housing. then proceeded to shake the gearbox apart from the motor. Once freed, I did exactly what bob described. You benchpress the thing by having your buddy remove the jack while you hold the gearbox. Then you let it down on your chest and wriggle to a spot with enouph room to put it on the garage floor. Now that I have a 5sp CR dog-leg 1st gearbox for my 2002, I get to look forward to doing this again. oh the joy... anybody make a dog-leg 1st gearbox for M3? Its going to get confusing if I ever take both cars to a A/X or track event. Jason