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#1. Mclaren F1 video - from Belliveau, James
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 17:38:03 -0800 From: "Belliveau, James" <James.Belliveau@kla-tencor.com> Subject: Mclaren F1 video For those of you who have high speed access and don't mind downloading 20 megs, check out this site. For those of you who don't, log on and dowload overnight, you'll be glad you did. A very well done overview of the awesome BMW powered Mclaren F1. http://www.taner.net/movies/ - Mclaren F1 video. Jamie (370 HP short of an F1)
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Fog Lights - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 20:40:34 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fog Lights Danny writes: > It's time to replace my cracked fog lights. They still work, but just the > cracked lenses ruin the look of M3 look. Should I go by OEM or any other > alternative? I am worrying about the OEM lenses crack all the time. Thanks > in advance. I went through 5 fog lights in the first 2 years / 25,000 miles I owned my M3. I never turned them on either. The claim that OEM BMW fog lights are defective because water splashing onto lit fog lights will crack them is nonsense. Rocks hitting them cause the cracks. (Although I lost two of mine when a damn semi-truck in front of me ran over a retread tire casing and threw it onto my bumper.) Your fog lights are only 12 inches off the ground. Look at the bottom of any car. You will find lots of nicks and pits. Our M3's are no different. Sand, gravel, rocks, etc. The best thing I did was buy a couple of plastic covers for my fog lights. They are shaped like the fog light and you press them into the gap around the fog lights in the spoiler. The fronts don't actually touch the fog light lens when in place. There is about a 1/4 space. They look great IMHO. I don't notice them. They are basically flush with the spoiler. I guess they work like a trampoline. Rocks just hit and bounce off. I have not cracked a fog light in 20,000 miles / 2.5 years. I bought mine from my dealer for about $25. Best $25 I spent. I tried all the different OE suppliers for fog lights - Hella, Bosch, ZKW. I think the ZKW are the best. They have the clearest lens (like that matters to a guy who never turns them on and puts a plastic cover over them - LOL). I purchased most of my fog lights from Steve D'G at The Ultimate Garage - http://www.ultimategarage.com/home.html Last fog lights I bought from Steve were about $65 including the holder/frame. You may not need to replace the frame but keep it just in case. I've busted the frame a couple of times. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#3. Wanted: 235/40/17 Bridgestone Pole Position S-02 - from BHilton@rhythms.net
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 19:04:56 -0700 From: BHilton@rhythms.net Subject: Wanted: 235/40/17 Bridgestone Pole Position S-02 Bent rim and suspect broke steel belt inside tire also. Preferably at least 1/4 tread remaining. Please reply privately. Thanks, Bret '95 M3 Avus blue w/ one wacky tire
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#4. Re: Accelerator pedal remove instructions - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 21:24:51 EST From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: Re: Accelerator pedal remove instructions Marc, Connect to: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images//accelpedal.jpg The instructions say if you remove it, you must replace it. There is no need to remove it to install the Skaggs pedal. Remove the E clip and follow the instructions linked from my article at: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/interior/e36_installing_skaggs_pedals.html Ron@unofficialbmw.com FLY BMW Marlborough, CT www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html
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#5. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 18:29:51 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question Then of course you have to get the whole thing back in correctly. Dave. I know you have a good job. It hasn't been that many months since you were asking for help to change your oil. Why don't you NOT try and become an auto mechanic? Every time I get a hairbrained idea to do something major I've never attempted I remind myself that the same 10 hours spent busting my butt, not my skull, at work doing something I'm actually good at will result in a bonus at least double the money I would spend hiring someone with the tools and knowledge to do it right. Stick with brake pads and foglights and work your way up. Jim PS: Have you looked at the money you need to spend in tools? Its not small. Bob Stommel wrote: > Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 19:55:38 -0500 > From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> > Subject: RE: Transmission removal question > > This project can be done in a home garage with jack stands, but it's not > for the faint of heart. First, you need to use the largest, heaviest jack > stands you can find -- I mean the "jack stands for trucks" type. You will > end up with your entire body under the car and if the jack stands don't > hold, you're toast. > > You must put all four corners on jack stands. Don't even think about doing > this project with only one end of the car raised. Also, make damn sure > that the jack stand arms are securely locked in place. > > You will need to raise the car as high as your floor jack and the jack > stands will allow so that you have enough clearance to crawl under the car > on your back. When you get ready to pull the transmission backward off the > engine or bell-housing, you need to be prepared to deadlift the thing and > lower it as if you are bench pressing 100 lbs. It helps to have two people > under the car to lower it. > > The absolute best solution is to use a good transmission jack under the > transmission so that you can slide the transmission onto the jack and then > lower it to the ground. Again, this takes a lot of clearance to get the > jack under the transmission and still have room to slide it out when the > transmission is lowered. > > Bottom line: Unless you are accustomed to pulling and reinstalling > gearboxes, this is one project best left to a pro. > > HTH, > Bob Stommel > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Date: 8 Dec 2000 10:35:31 -0800 > From: dholeman@spooze.com > Subject: Transmission removal question > > Hi, > > I do not have a lift but may need to remove my transmission. Using Jack > Stands I wondered how high I need to jack up the car to get the > transmission out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. > > David > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#6. [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 22:08:20 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question Now Jim!! tss, tss. Don't you get any enjoyment out of busting your knuckles, cussing when something doesn't go together, losing a nut into a black hole, dirt in your eye, all that good stuff? <vbg> I use the same logic for skiing. I always come back from my ski trips tired, sore, and lame. But would I pay somebody else to go ski for me and then tell me all about it? Nah. It's fun!!! LOL Seriously, I agree with you. Transmission work is not a job for amateurs. I won't dissuade anybody from trying but it will take time and special tools. I recommend renting the tools if it will be a one time job. You can rent transmission jacks, jack stands, big 5 ton floor jacks, etc. Who says the transmission only weighs 100 lbs?? I'll bet dollars to donuts that it is closer to 300 lbs. DO NOT lay underneath the transmission and take it off. You have got to use a proper transmission jack. Rent or borrow one. Don't plan on doing this repair in a weekend. It will take 3 times longer than you expect. Good luck but only think about doing it if you think you will enjoy the experience. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas Jim writes: > Every time I get a harebrained idea to do something major I've > never attempted I remind myself that the same 10 hours spent busting > my butt, not my skull, at work doing something I'm actually good at > will result in a bonus at least double the money I would spend hiring > someone with the tools and knowledge to do it right
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#7. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 19:35:44 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question On Fri, 8 Dec 2000 LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Who says the transmission only weighs 100 lbs?? I'll bet dollars to donuts > that it is closer to 300 lbs. DO NOT lay underneath the transmission and > take it off. You have got to use a proper transmission jack. Rent or borrow > one. > If this is true (300lbs.) DO NOT read my post. 2002 tranny is closer to 30 or 40 lbs. Jason
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Paging Donna and all pit bunnies - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 19:53:53 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Paging Donna and all pit bunnies You're asking me? I'd rather have a matching set of seats! :) :) Donna No diamonds or rubies in the house but two M3s in the garage ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > > Just checking, will a ruby and diamond (2 carat) tennis bracelet make it > all even-up for a set of Recaro Pole Position seats? > > I just want to make sure I bring a big enough sacrifice to SWMBO. > > Jim >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 20:14:30 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question David, I like working on cars, but I'm afraid of screwing something up. Especially because Bill Arnold scolds me and Bassett tells all of you about it. :) If I can arrange it, I like doing my own work under expert supervision. A person is better than a manual or web printout at yelling "No! Stop!" :) And another set of hands always comes in... um... handy. For nasty jobs (like transmission or motor replacement), the next step away would be to help the expert. Either way, you learn a lot about the job and it gets done right. Good luck! Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > > Now Jim!! tss, tss. Don't you get any enjoyment out of busting your > knuckles, cussing when something doesn't go together, losing a nut into a > black hole, dirt in your eye, all that good stuff? <vbg> > > Seriously, I agree with you. Transmission work is not a job for amateurs. > I won't dissuade anybody from trying but it will take time and special tools. > I recommend renting the tools if it will be a one time job. You can rent > transmission jacks, jack stands, big 5 ton floor jacks, etc. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > Dallas, Texas > > Jim writes: > >> Every time I get a harebrained idea to do something major I've >> never attempted I remind myself that the same 10 hours spent busting >> my butt, not my skull, at work doing something I'm actually good at >> will result in a bonus at least double the money I would spend hiring >> someone with the tools and knowledge to do it right > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear seat cover - from Thomas E. Tice
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Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2000 11:19:26 -0500 From: "Thomas E. Tice" <tetice@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Rear seat cover In the last group purchase of seat covers from Seat Savers, I inquired as to whether they would custom make a rear seat cover for the M3. We had several people interested but they were not willing to make any new patterns for this application. It seems business was too good for them to do anything other than crank out what they were already making. They were however willing to sell the heavy cotton material to match the front seat covers for about $6 yard. They indicated that appox. 3 yards would be needed to make a fitted rear seat cover. Their suggestion was that any local upholster could make a simple rear seat cover. If business has slowed for them, perhaps they will be more open at this point. I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask. Be sure to ask for Juan the manager (owner?) as others will definitely tell you no. FWIW, Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 still waiting on custom seat covers that I did convince them to make a patterm for (as a result of the group purchase) Chip Mitchell wrote: > Date: Fri, 8 Dec 2000 10:33:14 -0500 > From: "Chip Mitchell" <chipm@arches.uga.edu> > Subject: Re: Rear seat cover > > Pat, > > I've got some front seat covers from Seat Savers > Plus(www.seatsavers.com). They're made of a heavy denim-type material, > and have held up really well for almost two years now. Check out the > "rear auto bench" items under styles, or they may be able to make a > custom fit for you. > > Oh, and have them embroider an M-stripe on the seatback - looks good! > > ChipM > > >-------------------- 5 -------------------- > >Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2000 20:57:32 -0500 > >From: "Patrick Mallon" <zez413@home.com> > >Subject: Rear Seat Cover > > > >Can any one recommend a seat cover for the rear of a 98 M3 Convertible. > I > >am faced with the following ultimatum. > >"Let the 100Lb dog into the back of your car or get a car that the dog > can > >ride in." > >BMW makes a universal for the rear seat but does not list the E36 coupe > as > >one of the models it will work with (Universal?) > >They make a model for the E36 Sedan and one for the E46 Coupe. > > > >Any thoughts BMW or Not? > > > >Thank You > >Pat > >98 M3 Convertible > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************