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#1. Eibach Swaybar Settings - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:56:48 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Eibach Swaybar Settings My Eibach sways are going on soon also. Now I've heard three settings discussed: soft\soft; stiff\soft; soft\stiff. I was first convinced to go soft\soft. How many of you have this setting? I'm still not sure what setting to use. AJ 95/M3
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Eibachs - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 08:57:14 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs I started 3/4ths full soft in the front and full soft in the rear. Feels pretty good. Bora ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2000 7:22 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:18:32 -0800 (PST) > From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > > Soft front and stiff rear will likely induce > oversteer. So, yes, this is best for reducing > understeer but not best for handling. The rule of > thumb is to start out full stiff/soft f/r and adjust > from there. This is the safest and in many cases, > most optimal adjustment. 99% of all drivers turn > fastest times with a car that understeers a bit. > Maybe not as much 'fun' but it is the best way. > -Matt > --- Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > > Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 21:33:52 EST > > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > > > > Jim and others, > > > > I use the 245 setup with 17x8 SSRs all the way > > around for autoxing. To > > reduce the understeer most, wouldn't soft front and > > stiff back be best? I > > would like to hear from those who have experience > > with adjustable sway bars > > before mine get installed. > > > > TIA, > > > > Bob Gill > > 97 ///M3 coupe > > Philly Region SCCA > > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > > mov'in to ESP in '01 (maybe BSP) > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > > from the mailing list. > > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Eibachs - from Ron Katona
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:27:54 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs Stiffer sway bars transfer more _lateral_ load on the end of the car they are installed on. The result is that that end of the car turns in better, with less body roll, but also has less grip. By the book, stiffer in front means more understeer. That's a good place to start if you're installing new bars. My feelings on it are the closer to stock your springs, shocks, and alignments are, the more you need a stiff front bar. In this case, the additional roll stiffness is needed to keep the contact patch squarely on the ground. That offsets the lack of grip normally caused by stiffening the springs or sway bars. The farther your springs are from stock the _less_ front bar you need on an E36. With springs in the 400, 500, 600... lb/in range, the car has plenty of roll stiffness. The only purpose of the sway bar at that point is to balance the handling of the car which can be accomplished with thin bars. Of course, by this time you probably have camber plates and adjustable shocks which will help fine tune the handling as well. Note that this is only Ron Katona's view of the world - YMMV. I will tell you that I recently autocrossed an E36 323is with H&Rs and Konis at an event in VA with the front (RD Sport) sway bar disconnected. I did this to show the owner that he had to much front bar. He was unconvinced, but after the event agreed that he needs a smaller bar. The car was totally neutral in steady state and tended towards oversteer on turn in. It was actually pretty cool for autocross, although a bit too extreme for the track. Only problem was that it tended to unload the inside rear and spin tires on corner exit. I think we'll try a stock M3 bar on that car attached to the LCA rather than the strut. -- Ron Katona
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#4. Head Gasket Leak - from Bob Vaughn
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:25:23 -0800 From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: Head Gasket Leak My '95 M3 w/ 53K miles has been diagnosed with a leaky head gasket on/near 3 cylinders. The mechanic tells me that the head gasket material was changed somewhere during the model run. Does anyone know if there is any history, storied or otherwise, to the head gasket? Anywhere on the internet where I might read about it? -- thx, Bob
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Eibachs - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 18:28:22 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs The original Eibach postings (from Jim and Steve) advised to set the bars up soft/soft and work from there. Has this position now changed? -rb >Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:18:32 -0800 (PST) >From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > >Soft front and stiff rear will likely induce >oversteer. So, yes, this is best for reducing >understeer but not best for handling. The rule of >thumb is to start out full stiff/soft f/r and adjust >from there. This is the safest and in many cases, >most optimal adjustment. 99% of all drivers turn >fastest times with a car that understeers a bit. >Maybe not as much 'fun' but it is the best way. >-Matt _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. Driving in the Snow in chicago... - from Gerry Miranda
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 10:50:22 -0800 (PST) From: Gerry Miranda <gerry_miranda@yahoo.com> Subject: Driving in the Snow in chicago... Well there is about 7" of Snow in my driveway, the street in front of the house, the main street North Ave, Interstate I-290, and I -294. The wife has the jeep, so I get to take out the hi performance M3. But good thing I have Snow Tires. Pirelli Assimetricos Winter. Well I was shocked I can drive (actually plow, car has less than 5" ground clearance) through 7" high snow. Although my traction control was working like mad, I was able to get around fairly easily with no problems, albeit at 20-25 mph all the way to work. As I was diving down I-294 feeling confident of the control my tires are affording me, a small car behind could not stop on time and tapped the ol BMW rear. OUCH.... Luckily with all the SNOW the M3 slid forward and no damage on site. Realization I had , especially for all dirvers including SUV/4WD, You might be in control of your car in the snow or rain or .... BUT that does not necessarily mean everyone is. You might feel safe driving around in adverse weather conditions, but this is a FALSE sense of security... G ===== Gerry 97 M3/4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: Engine Whine - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 14:24:38 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Engine Whine on 12/11/00 11:42, "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> wrote: > Recently I started noticing a whining sound from the engine. It is the kind > of sound one would hear if a belt were slipping or a bearing of some sort > going bad. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the idler pully and > tensioner . > > But I still hear the sound after the car has been driven awhile. If I give > it some revs (in park or drive) I hear it right as the engine comes back to > idle. > > Ed Frank > 97 M3/4 When a similar sound was heard in my car, it turned out to be the power steering pump going bad. Was more like a moan than a whine, heard only at low revs. Could make the sound vary by turning the steering slightly to load the pump while stationary. Neil 96 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:08:04 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak Just a question to the group: If he's replacing the head gasket, is it worthwhiel to change the studs and fasteners to something aftermarket like Raceware? Thanks, Chester > My '95 M3 w/ 53K miles has been diagnosed with a leaky head gasket on/near 3 > cylinders. The mechanic tells me that the head gasket material was changed > somewhere during the model run. Does anyone know if there is any history, > storied or otherwise, to the head gasket? Anywhere on the internet where I > might read about it? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak - from Jim Powell
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:15:10 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak Yeah, use ARP studs. Jim Chester Wong wrote: > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:08:04 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak > > Just a question to the group: If he's replacing the head gasket, is it > worthwhiel to change the studs and fasteners to something aftermarket like > Raceware? > > Thanks, > Chester > > > My '95 M3 w/ 53K miles has been diagnosed with a leaky head gasket on/near 3 > > cylinders. The mechanic tells me that the head gasket material was changed > > somewhere during the model run. Does anyone know if there is any history, > > storied or otherwise, to the head gasket? Anywhere on the internet where I > > might read about it? > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 15:06:26 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak Just as a point of reference, the factory uses bolts, not studs, for the cylinder head. You can install studs for better sealing ability though. Nick > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 12:08:04 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak > > Just a question to the group: If he's replacing the head gasket, is it > worthwhiel to change the studs and fasteners to something aftermarket like > Raceware? > > Thanks, > Chester