E36M3 #770

Tuesday, December 12, 2000 11:23:25

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Donna Seeley
#2. LTW radio cover - from Chris Gant
#3. RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Bill P
#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Engine Whine - from Chester Wong
#5. Re: [E36M3] Eibachs - from nabli@attglobal.net
#6. Re: Engine Whine - from S Lafredo
#7. RE: factory alarm - from drwillb
#8. Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question - from Jim Powell
#9. RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Bob Vaughn
#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Chester Wong

-------------------- 1 --------------------

#1. Re: [E36M3] RE:  Transmission removal question - from Donna Seeley
Top
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 20:18:38 -0700 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question JP, Are you back on your medication or is it just "Santa's list" time again? :) Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 15:29:01 -0800 > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question > > I'm stifling myself. Really. Amazing ain't it? > > Jim > > Jim Bassett wrote some stuff... >

Reply to: Donna Seeley

Top

-------------------- 2 --------------------

#2. LTW radio cover - from Chris Gant
Top
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 22:38:57 -0600 From: "Chris Gant" <cgant@home.com> Subject: LTW radio cover Does anyone have a part # for the radio faceplate that came on the LTW to cover the radio opening? Chris 95 M3

Reply to: Chris Gant

Top

-------------------- 3 --------------------

#3. RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Bill P
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 00:07:04 -0500 From: "Bill P" <casanova@tpgbbs.com> Subject: RE: Head Gasket Leak Why ARP studs and not Raceware? Last I checked ARP did not make a BMW application. Using ARP would require enlarging the block threads and also the head. I would (DID) use the Raceware stuff because it was BOLT ON. I (my machanic) do not recomend re-drilling the block with all the internals installed. A little piece of metal can cause some damage tohe cylendal walls. Bill P Raceware studs but only running 6 psi -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 13:10:56 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak Its not that I recommend an upgrade ONLY because of boost levels. You aren't supposed to reuse the bolts. Take 'em out? You should buy new ones. If you run boost I personally believe you ought to pop for the ARP studs. Jim Monty Baugh wrote:

Reply to: Bill P

Top

-------------------- 4 --------------------

#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Engine Whine - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 21:32:24 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Engine Whine Just curious. Isn't the oil under pressure? So if you remove the cap while the engine is running, wouldn't oil spew all over the place? No need for another Chester story...ya know? (although I think Powell would gladly read about it ;) Thanks, Chester > If it's more of a whistling sound it may be the rear main seal. I've had > mine replaced twice. When you hear the sound, remove the oil filler > cap. If the sound goes away, this may be your problem. The whistling > comes from air being pulled through the leaky seal by engine vacuum. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Chester Wong

Top

-------------------- 5 --------------------

#5. Re: [E36M3] Eibachs - from nabli@attglobal.net
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 01:39:46 -0500 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs Having personally tried EVERY setting, I can basically tell you how your car will react under different driving conditions (though not necessarily with aftermarket springs etc...). My original post (please re-read it) was to set the car full stiff front and soft rear. I said: "To start, I decided to set the front bars to full stiff just to play it safe. Better to understeer than fly off the road. Besides, how credible would I be if I came back and told you the bars were definitely the next best thing to sliced bread and oh, BTW, I had a really nice encounter with a gorgeous oak tree. ;-)" That is and still will be the recommended starting point for everyone. Depending upon your experience you can proceed at your own risk. I assumed everyone was a beginner. In fact I also said: "BMW designed our cars to understeer for a reason - namely safety and potential liability. Thus: 1. Cars that tend to understeer are very forgiving. 2. Cars that tend to oversteer are very unforgiving. 3. Cars that are neutral REALLY are at the driver's mercy!" I have some track time under my belt so I do not necessarily consider myself the average starting point which is why Stephen and me decided to try different settings. On a final note, the setting you use for your car really depends on whether you are tracking your car or doing an autocross. Guess what, the are emphatically not the same settings. You can probably figure it out from there - I hope. Cheers, Jim E. Ron Buchalski wrote: > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 18:28:22 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > > The original Eibach postings (from Jim and Steve) advised to set the bars up > soft/soft and work from there. > > Has this position now changed? > > -rb > > >Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 07:18:32 -0800 (PST) > >From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibachs > > > >Soft front and stiff rear will likely induce > >oversteer. So, yes, this is best for reducing > >understeer but not best for handling. The rule of > >thumb is to start out full stiff/soft f/r and adjust > >from there. This is the safest and in many cases, > >most optimal adjustment. 99% of all drivers turn > >fastest times with a car that understeers a bit. > >Maybe not as much 'fun' but it is the best way. > >-Matt > > _____________________________________________________________________________________ > Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************

Reply to:

Top

-------------------- 6 --------------------

#6. Re:  Engine Whine - from S Lafredo
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 07:07:28 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Engine Whine I know it does on a motorcycle. Ask me how I know :( S On 12/11/00 at 11:32 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: : So if you remove the cap while the engine is running, wouldn't oil : spew all over the place?

Reply to: S Lafredo

Top

-------------------- 7 --------------------

#7. RE: factory alarm - from drwillb
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 07:14:48 -0500 From: "drwillb" <drwillb@idt.net> Subject: RE: factory alarm Scott, I have done the installation on my 95 M3. The lead that branches off should go to the LED that mounts forward of the shifter and below the sunglass holder. As far as the locking action not working I had the same thing happen to me. It turned out to be a bad hood sensor that made the alarm think that the hood was not closed. This could also happen with a faulty trunk sensor. You could easily check the hood sensor, located along the fender, near the passenger side headlights, with a voltmeter. It looks like a springy metal tab sticking up. The trunk sensor, I believe, is a plunger type located near the latch assembly. You could also just take it to the dealer as your car should still be under warranty. Good Luck, Bill Molina 95 M3 88 M3: one month in shop waiting for head rebuild and new gasket

Reply to: drwillb

Top

-------------------- 8 --------------------

#8. Re: [E36M3] RE:  Transmission removal question - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:06:33 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question Yes I'm back on my medication. Merlot. Jim Donna Seeley wrote: > JP, > > Are you back on your medication or is it just "Santa's list" time again? :) > > Donna > ------- > 88 M3, "Guido" > 95 330isA, super-commuter > 91 Dodge Ram, Guido's chauffeur > > > > > Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2000 15:29:01 -0800 > > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Transmission removal question > > > > I'm stifling myself. Really. Amazing ain't it? > > > > Jim > > > > Jim Bassett wrote some stuff... > >

Reply to: Jim Powell

Top

-------------------- 9 --------------------

#9. RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Bob Vaughn
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:57:23 -0800 From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: RE: Head Gasket Leak The problem was discovered because of a little oil leaking from the head gasket. Other than converting to studs, is there any preventative maintenance type things that should be done while the head is off? -- Bob '95 M3 -----Original Message----- Just curious, what is the nature of the leak? I.e. compression into crankcase, compression into water jacket, water into crankcase, etc. Jim P. recommends a hardware upgrade because he runs F1-type boost. For us who draw breath normally, I can't imagine why the stock head fasteners wouldn't do. MBaugh

Reply to: Bob Vaughn

Top

-------------------- 10 --------------------

#10. Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:18:31 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak Some porting and polishing would be nice ;) Chester > Other than converting to studs, is there any preventative maintenance type > things that should be done while the head is off? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Chester Wong

Top