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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak - from Jim Powell
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 09:48:31 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Head Gasket Leak Clean all the carbon off the pistons and have the head checked to make sure its flat. Check the valves for any edge burning. Jim Bob Vaughn wrote: > Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 08:57:23 -0800 > From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> > Subject: RE: Head Gasket Leak > > The problem was discovered because of a little oil leaking from the head > gasket. > > Other than converting to studs, is there any preventative maintenance type > things that should be done while the head is off? > > -- Bob > '95 M3 > > -----Original Message----- > > Just curious, what is the nature of the leak? I.e. compression into > crankcase, compression into water jacket, water into crankcase, etc. > Jim P. recommends a hardware upgrade because he runs F1-type boost. > For us who draw breath normally, I can't imagine why the stock head > fasteners wouldn't do. > > MBaugh > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#2. Head Gasket Leak - from Monty Baugh
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:52:18 -0600 From: Monty Baugh <mbaugh@telecom-management.com> Subject: Head Gasket Leak I've seen oil leak between a valve cover and cylinder head, but not between cylinder head and engine block. I'm certainly no expert on BMW engines, but I can't visualize how a head gasket is holding back oil pressure. Seems the only oil that could leak there would be from the cylinder bore; I would expect in that case that there would also be a continuous miss on that cylinder, since you would not have compression. You might want to get a second opinion on this matter. At the least, I would try cleaning up the mess and torquing the head bolts in hopes of avoiding a large repair bill. MBaugh
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#3. Re: Engine Whine - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 13:06:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Engine Whine on 12/12/00 12:32, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Just curious. Isn't the oil under pressure? So if you remove the cap while > the engine is running, wouldn't oil spew all over the place? Nope. The galleries leading to the various bearings etc. do contain pressurized oil, but the crankcase volume, head area above the cams and so on are not. (These areas are subject to air pressure pulses from the pistons and other large moving parts, but that's different.) If you remove the oil filler cap and look inside, do you see oil? No - instead there's an air space into which you pour oil, and a baffle which blocks the cambox area. If you drive without the oil filler cap, even at the track, you'll get a little oil misting on the engine cover and a the check engine light will come on to indicate a vacuum leak. Ask me how I know <g>. Neil 96 M3
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#4. San Diego Autocross - from Jim Powell
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 10:19:32 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: San Diego Autocross Reminder from sunny San Diego, Americas finest city: San Diego will be holding an autocross this Saturday at Qualcomm Stadium. The event will be in the west lot and easily exceed 1 mile, as usual. last month's course was 1.4 miles. Come see what Dan Tackett has for us this month. Weather reports are for partly cloudy and 68 degrees. :) Gates open at 6:30 for registration and tech inspection. Driver's meeting at 8:00 and registration closes. Entry fee is $40 and if you are not a BMW CCA member, you can join at registration for another $35. Trophies will be awarded and lunch is included. See everyone there. Jim Powell Webmeister Autocross Co-Chair San Diego Chapter
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#5. update - blown wiring harness and DME (longish whinish) - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 12:37:23 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: update - blown wiring harness and DME (longish whinish) Hello Gruppe; Just thought I'd update "ya' all" on my '97 M3/4 electrical woes.... It looks like Warranty Gold is coming through on the repairs. They are buying me a new wiring harness, all the labor needed to install it, and the DME. Whatever is found will be replaced as well. The total is going to be over 6K (6-8K estimated). What caused it ? Wire chafings are suspect. The harness rubbed and rubbed and rubbed on the firewall until the insulation wore, exposed the bare metal, which promptly shorted. Common sense suggests that the harness should have been better inbsulated and routed through the firewall. I say "kudos" to BMW for such fine craftsmanship and unwillingness to stand up and warrant the repairs as the car is only 2,500 miles out of warranty. A few areas worth noting. First, it took way too long to get the warranty administrators to return calls. They claim a faulty voice mail system which was replaced last week. Next, the second level adjustor who took over the case was being fairly difficult to deal with, and my shop told me that they will not honor Warranty Gold there again. Which prompted me to call a supervisor at WG who rectified the situation. The only thing I'll end up being out of pocket on is the use of a loaner. It's been three weeks since my car went into the shop. They will begin the electrical work tomorrow. Which puts me at around 4 weeks for the use of a "loaner" Jetta VR6 at $30 per day. I complained to WG and they will try to comp me a few more days beyond the 5 max, as it was their slow adjustors who took 2-3 days to return calls. Now, my feelings about BMW. This '97 M3 is my 4th (fourth) bimmer. First one was an inka '72 2002, followed by a '94 325i w/ sports pkg and a '94 325iC w/ sports package. Lemme tell you. The '02 was a blast to drive, but did spend a fair amount of time in the shop with mechanical difficulties. In all fairness though, it was a tired 15 year old car. The '94 cars were both purchased used. The 325i had low miles when I bought it, and I drove it for 18 months until I sold it. All within the warranty period. The iC was a 3 month car for me, bought with 44K miles and sold with 49K miles, all within warranty. Both E36 cars had electrical problems with the window modules, and the iC had power top issues. Lucky for me both left my possession while still under full factory warranty. And now enter my '97 ///M3/4 saga. I bought the car in '98 with 15K miles. As it reached 48K miles and I knew that I would drive it for at least another year, I purchased an extended warranty. The wisest investment I've made in 2000 ! Now, should the wiring harness go bad and take out the DME ? not if everything was properly designed, manufactured and not altered since leaving the factory. I cannot vouch for the first two, but rest assured the car is stock. Electrical system and all. For the harness to short out due to rubbing on the firewall is an indication of lousy craftsmanship. BMWs unwillingness to STAND UP and take responsibility for its quality is inexcusable. I can only imagine what I would have felt like if I had to dish out 6K plus change for this repair bill. So, to all of you with the factory warranty running out - sell before it does or buy an extended warranty. Unless you do not mind expen$ive repair bills of do all your own work. If you opt for the latter, read the fine print. I really hope that BMWNA get a copy of this email and it makes them think..... George Kofman many former bimmers & other cars '97 ///M3/4 with 52,900 miles (while the warranty gold keeps paying for repairs) '01 E46 M3 on order (now considering replacing with a Boxster S and/or a Quattro S4)
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#6. Re: Engine Whine - from ENF
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 13:44:21 -0500 From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Re: Engine Whine Has anyone had any trouble with a loose/sloppy timing chain that has made some noise. I ask this because one of the things the "Master Tech" said when we were listening to this is that the timing chain ran on a nylon type track (or in or around one). This got me thinking as I had some work done to it early on that may have required the timing chain to be removed and re-installed. I have also read a few articles mentioning this kind of problem and refering to the T.C. Now do I think it is it? Well I'm still not sure what it is I do know it doesn't happen until after the car has been driven for a while and that you really only hear the whine/noise at idle after you have throttled down. The last bit of information is...the sound will go away after awhile if just left to idling but as soon as you get on it the sound returns. Still searching, Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#7. Re: Engine Whine - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 13:40:22 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: Engine Whine I agree with Stephen, it will on a motorcycle such as my Suzuki GSXR 750 but only as the rpms build. Last month after I changed the oil on my bike, I started it before replacing the filler cap (about the size of a quarter) and no oil came out when idling. A twist of the throttle would be another matter all together. With respect to my E36M3, I have removed my filler cap and was able to idle the car with no oil spewing anywhere. The reason I attempted this was an E30M3 club racer from Canada, while at Mid-Ohio, lost his filler cap during his warm-up lap. I gave him mine since I was sitting in the paddock as a spectator anyway. I even was able to idle the car on over to the air pump to pump up the old tires without any spewing (yes my oil fill was proper). Obviously, elevated rpms are another matter. YMMV. Rich From: S Lafredo wrote: I know it does on a motorcycle. Ask me how I know :( S On 12/11/00 at 11:32 PM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: : So if you remove the cap while the engine is running, wouldn't oil : spew all over the place?
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#8. Oil Temperature - from carey.probst@oracle.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:07:59 -0800 (PST) From: carey.probst@oracle.com Subject: Oil Temperature I recently added the JTD oil distribution block and gauges and wanted to get an idea of what type of oil temperature I should expect. In the upstate NY cold, it usually stays around 180-200 and takes a long time to get that high. Does that sound reasonable? I figured that oil should be about the same as water but don't have a real temperature gauge for water either, just the hot/cold indicators. TIA Carey Probst '99M3, some toys, getting more A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.
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#9. Fog Light And Wheel Liner - from Wen Liew
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 19:12:53 From: "Wen Liew" <wwliew@hotmail.com> Subject: Fog Light And Wheel Liner I've been driving without the driver's fog light and noticed that the driver's side underpanel "porkchop" has detached from the wheel liner. While the porkchop is fine, the portion of the wheel liner that connects to the porkchop has ripped, probably due to air coming through the fog duct at high speeds. How do those of you who are running without fogs keep these parts intact, besides covering the fog duct or driving really slooow...? Put a tube to direct air to the intake? ;-) 96/2 - waiting to be inducted to the exploding underpanel club _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Oil Temperature - from Jim Powell
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:19:30 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Temperature It takes 15-20 minutes in winter for oil to reach full temp. Yours sounds perfect. Jim carey.probst@oracle.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:07:59 -0800 (PST) > From: carey.probst@oracle.com > Subject: Oil Temperature > > I recently added the JTD oil distribution block and gauges and wanted > to get an idea of what type of oil temperature I should expect. > > In the upstate NY cold, it usually stays around 180-200 and takes a > long time to get that high. > > Does that sound reasonable? I figured that oil should be about the > same as water but don't have a real temperature gauge for water either, > just the hot/cold indicators. > > TIA > > Carey Probst '99M3, some toys, getting more > > A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, > the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************