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#1. Re: Oil Temperature - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:44:23 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Oil Temperature on 12/12/00 14:32, carey.probst@oracle.com wrote: > > I recently added the JTD oil distribution block and gauges and wanted > to get an idea of what type of oil temperature I should expect. > > In the upstate NY cold, it usually stays around 180-200 and takes a > long time to get that high. > > Does that sound reasonable? Yep. Winter - 180-200, takes quite a while Summer - 200-220, takes a while Track - up to 260, no oil cooler Neil 96 M3
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#2. [E36M3] Eibachs - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 16:41:47 -0600 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: [E36M3] Eibachs Ok, but many people do both. If you can't have the best of both worlds, what would be the best compromise in your opinion? aj ....... Thus: 1. Cars that tend to understeer are very forgiving. 2. Cars that tend to oversteer are very unforgiving. 3. Cars that are neutral REALLY are at the driver's mercy!" I have some track time under my belt so I do not necessarily consider myself the average starting point which is why Stephen and me decided to try different settings. On a final note, the setting you use for your car really depends on whether you are tracking your car or doing an autocross. Guess what, the are emphatically not the same settings. You can probably figure it out from there - I hope. Cheers, Jim E.
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#3. JTD Oil Dist. Block- from Roger Baker
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Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 15:40:01 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: JTD Oil Dist. Block <FS> With all this talk about oil temps, I remember I have a JTD distribution block for sale, tapped for M10 sensors. Available with or without required sensors for temp & press. Only used a couple months then I added a Euro oil cooler and it doesn't fit it too well so I haven't used it since. $50 plain or $75 loaded, shipped to you within USA via regular UPS. Roger Baker
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#4. One fine day...turns into a evening of hell - from Ed Tang
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 05:54:27 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: One fine day...turns into a evening of hell Hi all, Driving was fun Monday. However...when I get back to the condo, there were several abandoned cars so the plows couldn't get through. I had already gone into the entrance and got stuck. Fine, I have Blizzaks but, uh, I don't know about a foot and a half of snow. O.K. start in second gear and row through. Fourth gear, 4,000 rpm (not really much)...125 mph (holy crap Batman), true velocity=10mph. I stop. Not worth the abuse. I try again and the car makes it through about 100 yards to the garage door and I make it in. However, there's blue smoke everywhere and I'm thinking tire. But maybe it's the clutch, just going by the rotten smell. I stop the car in the garage and then I start off...slippage. Maybe the tire's still wet. Disengage, start again. No, it's not the tires. I'm probably at 50% power on the clutch. I'm just glad it's not totally gone. To put some positive light on the situation, it is easier to drive in the snow. Besides the clutch being a problem, are there sypmtoms I might have to be aware of that leads to problems with the master or slave clutch hydraulics? The car has 60,000 miles on it now and I'll replace the clutch no problem. How will I know whether I'll need to replace the hydraulics? TIA Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#5. snow day - from Ed Tang
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 06:18:42 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: snow day Gerry wrote: "Realization I had , especially for all drivers including SUV/4WD, You might be in control of your car in the snow or rain or .... BUT that does not necessarily mean everyone is. You might feel safe driving around in adverse weather conditions, but this is a FALSE sense of security..." It is so true. You will get the grip you need to get through the snow but otherwise, turning and braking will yield to the laws of physics. There was a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4X4 that was making a turn and he spun out in front of me. A good two car lengths but those trucks look really intimidating when it spins toward you. I was hoping to see it flip (I know, it's that little devil on my left shoulder saying it) b/c I've never witnessed something like that. That was the closest call to knowing when playtime is over. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: Oil Temp. - from tsalva@ix.netcom.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 12:42:59 -0500 (EST) From: tsalva@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Oil Temp. Hello Carey, I have a 98 M3/4 with the JTD block with oil temp., volts and oil pressure. Oil temp in Mich. usually runs 180 in winter, 195 in summer and up to 240 on the track in summer. It takes at least 20 min. to get up to operating temp. So your values of 180-200 are fine. FYI: oil pressure at start up about 58-60 psi, once wamed up about 50 psi under load. Thomas -------------------- 8 -------------------- Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2000 11:07:59 -0800 (PST) From: carey.probst@oracle.com Subject: Oil Temperature I recently added the JTD oil distribution block and gauges and wanted to get an idea of what type of oil temperature I should expect. In the upstate NY cold, it usually stays around 180-200 and takes a long time to get that high. Does that sound reasonable? I figured that oil should be about the same as water but don't have a real temperature gauge for water either, just the hot/cold indicators. TIA Carey Probst '99M3, some toys, getting more
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#7. brakes 'n alarm: epilogue - from Scott Yu
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 13:42:16 -0500 From: "Scott Yu" <scott@ditherdog.com> Subject: brakes 'n alarm: epilogue I'd like to thank everyone again for all the kind help - my housemate calls this list "the M3 Friendship Club" which is funny, but I'm always delighted at the warm exchange of information and ideas through this board. The meat of the post: I found a picture of a disassemled rear rotor, and a certain Mr. Seaton was kind enough to explain the mechanism to me. Bottom line: the axis of the adjustment screw is tangential to the hub and coplanar with the rotor disc. If you're curious as to what this means or are planning to adjust your parking brake, email me and I'll be happy to send you the picture. Yes, it's worth a thousand words. Bill Molina pointed out that a bum hood sensor might have been throwing off my alarm install - I checked it last night, and that was it. If y'all are planning on installing the OEM alarm, please note that the hood sensor can get a bit misaligned - mine was off by 3-4mm. I have shakily determined the mysterious unused 4-pin connector to be a relay for an additional motion sensor, perhaps for a Z3 or the 3er convertible? If you're planning to install the OEM alarm AND change your microfilter, you might consider doing them both at the same time. There is actually a way to do both without removing the glovebox, and you probably don't even need to remove the OBC or console, either. I also stumbled into a stupefyingly easy method for routing the alarm LED cable to the console area - if there's any interest I'd be happy to write all this up and stick it on my sloppy headlamp refinishing webpage. Hope it's warmer wherever you are, scott yu '97 M3/2 boston, ma
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#8. E36 M3 strut help! - from Rob Hatrak
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 11:13:44 -0800 From: "Rob Hatrak" <Hatrak@ix.netcom.com> Subject: E36 M3 strut help! Can anyone that has the factory struts on an M3 please do me a favor? I am wondering if there is a flexible rubber dust boot that covers the top of the strut (the piston part) on the front and rear struts. Can someone look at their car and let me know? Thanks in advance, Rob
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 13:48:08 -0700 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh@attglobal.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak From: "Monty Baugh" <mbaugh@telecom-management.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 10:52 AM Subject: [E36M3] Head Gasket Leak > I've seen oil leak between a valve cover and cylinder head, but not between > cylinder head and engine block. I'm certainly no expert on BMW engines, but > I can't visualize how a head gasket is holding back oil pressure. Seems the > only oil that could leak there would be from the cylinder bore; I would > expect in that case that there would also be a continuous miss on that > cylinder, since you would not have compression. I had it happen on an Acura Integra. Oil does go through holes in the gasket to get from the block to the head, and (at least on the Acura) these holes are pretty near the edge of the gasket. Engine ran smooth as silk, it just leaked. My M3 just developed some oozage too. I've cleaned it up, and now I gotta see where it's really coming from. > > You might want to get a second opinion on this matter. At the least, I > would try cleaning up the mess and torquing the head bolts in hopes of > avoiding a large repair bill. I don't think you can re-torque the stock bolts. They're "torque to yield". FWIU, that means once they've been stretched to their working length (which is a multi-step procedure involving a torque wrench and protractor), messing with 'em can result in failure. I'd be interested to hear how the original poster fared. Does anyone know if there's a TSB on '95 head gaskets?
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#10. Test. - from Jeff Kumler
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 16:00:47 -0600 From: "Jeff Kumler" <jdkumler@comdisco.com> Subject: Test. Is the list down? Jeff