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#1. [E36] Turner Speedvision 328i - from RogRacer@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 13:32:01 EST From: RogRacer@aol.com Subject: [E36] Turner Speedvision 328i Anybody read the European Car write-up on the Turner 328? What's the deal...Turner says the motor, by the Touring car rules, must be "stock" including the intake manifold! Oh really...then what is that M50 motor doing in there? Since when was the M50 motor available in a 328, even though Turner says it's right out one?? The manifold isn't a 328 manifold either. Also Turner says it has a big K&N filter....wrong again...it looks like the ITG foam filter...MINUS any heat sheilding I might add. Also, it looks like the HFM is TAPED directly to the filter and uses a long set of extensions way back to the throttle body. Why would they do that?? I though the HFM had to be a "spec" distance away from the filter to make sure the flow was not turbulent? I'm asking these questions, because there are so many things in this article that run counter to popular wisdom and just don't seem to make sense! Roger W. Graves RogRacer@aol.com '95 M3
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#2. RE: Head Gasket Leak + Ext Warranty - from George M. Kofman
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 12:52:26 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: RE: Head Gasket Leak + Ext Warranty > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 14:00:16 -0800 > From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> > Subject: RE: Head Gasket Leak + Ext Warranty > > > Thanks to all who responded to my questions regarding this. I took it to > the dealer for a second opinion and they agreed that the oil on the block > was from a very minor head gasket leak. They didn't think it was worth > spending that much money (either on my part or theirs) to fix such a minor > problem at this point. But they did say to keep an eye on it in case it > really starts dripping oil. So I guess I'll hold off on doing anything for > now. small headgasket leaks that aqre not worth fixing turn into LARGE REPAIR BILLS. Especially on a SAAB. Ask me how I know. > > Now my next question... does anyone with an extended warranty know if a head > gasket repair would be covered? Or is that considered normal maintenance > stuff? According to Warranty Gold, Gaskets are covered if they are a part of the engine assy. I assume this means HEAD GASKET. Call them at 800-580-9889 x4729 (Dave Wallace) and ask... If you buy a policy from them, mention me. I'll get a $50 rebate. good for a cigar and a glass of cognac. If do not have ext warranty on your MMM, you should. > Bob > '95 M3 GMK '97 M3/4, with a new wiring harness & DME worth 6K+. (MIA since Monday before Thanksgiving. Getting it today, in time for a snow storm!)
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#3. stygar clutch pedal - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:01:10 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: stygar clutch pedal >I installed my Stygar-modified clutch pedal this week while waiting out an > ice storm. I highly recommend the mod. The pedal is much more solid now, > and without the incessant creaking and groaning. I must have the world's worst luck with my M3. My UUC exhaust didn't fit right (and fit perfectly on everyone else's car), my UUC clutch stop had to be modified, and my stygar clutch pedal squeaks. It's almost definitely my fault, because I didn't put enough grease on the @*(#$*@#$ bushings. :( oh, well. Just curious... what kind of clutches are you guys using? Mostly concerned with those of you using performance clutches. I'm thinking about doing a supercharger early next year (go market, go!) and I'm thinking that a stock clutch will be ok for a mild (6psi) setup. -kit, whose very smooth and straight clutch pedal squeaks 97 m3
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#4.Brand New Set - Michelin MXX3 235/40/17 (Price Lowered) - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 14:22:41 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: <FS> Brand New Set - Michelin MXX3 235/40/17 (Price Lowered) Listers, I am know abundantly aware that Tire Rack is currently selling this exact size new for $200 each. Therefore, I have a full set (four tires) of Michelin MXX3s in size 235/40/17 which are brand new, never used and have been sitting in my basement (wrapped in black garbage bags). I was looking to sell the set for $800 (or best offer) if anyone is interested. Shipping is negotiable as well. I repeat, make me a reasonable offer and if I feel it is reasonable, I will accept it. Let me know if anyone is interested. Otherwise, I believe they may be off to Ebay. Best regards, Rich
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#5. Re: [E36M3] stygar clutch pedal - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 12:32:32 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] stygar clutch pedal Kit, I would expect the stock clutch to be okay for a S/C. It's peak torque, not HP that causes the clutch to slip. I have a turbo which makes much more torque than the S/C (but no more HP) and the stock clutch seems to hold pretty well. I think that the reasonable upgrade is to get a Sachs PowerClutch, which is supposedly around $600. You can also get an AA, which is probably the same thing, for $1k. Regards, Matt --- Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:01:10 -0800 > From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: stygar clutch pedal > > >I installed my Stygar-modified clutch pedal this > week while waiting out an > > ice storm. I highly recommend the mod. The pedal > is much more solid now, > > and without the incessant creaking and groaning. > > I must have the world's worst luck with my M3. My > UUC exhaust didn't > fit right (and fit perfectly on everyone else's > car), my UUC clutch stop > had to be modified, and my stygar clutch pedal > squeaks. It's almost > definitely my fault, because I didn't put enough > grease on the @*(#$*@#$ > bushings. :( oh, well. > > Just curious... what kind of clutches are you guys > using? Mostly > concerned with those of you using performance > clutches. I'm thinking > about doing a supercharger early next year (go > market, go!) and I'm > thinking that a stock clutch will be ok for a mild > (6psi) setup. > > -kit, whose very smooth and straight clutch pedal > squeaks > 97 m3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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#6. More Engine Whine - from ENF
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:48:54 -0500 From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: More Engine Whine Paying more attention as to when this whine appears I have discovered that it shows up about 30 to 45 minutes of continuous driving. If it is a short run here or there it doesn't happen. From that I can only determine that something is heating(or warming) up then it appears. Again, it is mostly noticed(by me) at idle or after acceleration and the engine comes down to regular rpm. I can hear this sound inside the car but obviously it is more pronounced outside. No help from the dealer. My warranty is up in Feb. and this sound is NOT right. No other problems noticed. I'm hoping to reach someone with a similar experience. Thanks and Happy Holidays, BTW in I can't find the cause of the whine could someone recommend a good cheese. Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#7. RE: [E36M3] More Engine Whine - from Robert Jackowitz
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:59:42 -0500 From: Robert Jackowitz <RJackowitz@HARVPART.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] More Engine Whine Only thing that comes to mind that would produce a whine and also be directly affected by engine heat would be the alternator. I believe there is an intake hose originating from the top of and just behind the kidney grills which is meant to keep the alternator cool. Check to see that the hose connections are still intact. Another thought...does the whine change at all when you depress the clutch? > -----Original Message----- > From: ENF [SMTP:enf@iglou.com] > Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 4:43 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] More Engine Whine > > Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:48:54 -0500 > From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> > Subject: More Engine Whine > > Paying more attention as to when this whine appears I have discovered that > it shows up about 30 to 45 minutes of continuous driving. If it is a short > run here or there it doesn't happen. From that I can only determine that > something is heating(or warming) up then it appears. Again, it is mostly > noticed(by me) at idle or after acceleration and the engine comes down to > regular rpm. > > I can hear this sound inside the car but obviously it is more pronounced > outside. > No help from the dealer. My warranty is up in Feb. and this sound is NOT > right. No other problems noticed. > > I'm hoping to reach someone with a similar experience. > > Thanks and Happy Holidays, > > BTW in I can't find the cause of the whine could someone recommend a good > cheese. > > Ed Frank > 97 M3/4 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* >
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#8. FS- Supercharged 95 M3 - from Jon Massengale
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:06:19 -0600 From: Jon Massengale <Jon@aestechnology.com> Subject: FS- Supercharged 95 M3 Dinan Supercharged 340+hp, titanium retainers, light weight flywheel with sachs clutch, 3.46ls differential with 40% lock-up, B&B exhaust, Eibach sport springs, Bilstein sport shocks, RD sway bars, AC short shift, 48k miles, cosmos black metallic, outrageously fast and clean. $27,500 512-452-9068 ask for SW
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#9. Coolant Level - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:37:01 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Coolant Level 95 M3 with brand new radiator and 91K miles. After sitting in my enclosed garage for 10 days, I started the car as soon as I got home, took it for a short drive and as soon as I pulled back into my steep driveway, check control came on and said check coolant level. The engine is fully warmed up and the coolant level is about 1/2 inch below the cold level marked in the overflow container. I never checked the coolant level and so I have no idea if it has been like this always. I am going to just fill the overflow to the right level with phosphate free antifreeze. Anything else I should watch for. Thanks Bora
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#10. San Diego Trip - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:39:52 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: San Diego Trip I was in San Diego for about a week for the IETF meeting (www.ietf.org) but had no time to hook up with any of the listers (had the wrong car anyway, Q45). San Diego was as nice as I remembered. Now all I need to do is find a job that pays me well, then we are all ready to move ;-) I was surprised at the lack of traffic anywhere even in rush hour. Bora