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#1. Rear Alignment Problem - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 21:54:15 EST From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Rear Alignment Problem The E30 M3-based rear alignment on my 99 M Coupe is out of spec and I need advice whether/how to fix. Camber -- which is supposed to be -1.75 degrees +/- 0.50 -- is -1.28 on the right and -2.24 on the left, a difference of almost a full degree. Total toe-in -- which is supposed to be 0.25" +/- -0.11" -- is 0.44". Because there is no rear alignment adjustment, should I consider replacing suspension members or having a body shop put car on frame machine, or do I leave alone? I'd prefer not using the KMAC eccentric bushings because it would move me into a different autox class. Advice would be much appreciated. Neil Wash, DC
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Alignment Problem - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 19:28:18 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Alignment Problem Did these numbers get measured with the BMW specified weights in the seats? Bora ----- Original Message ----- From: <NSimon1111@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 7:02 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rear Alignment Problem > Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 21:54:15 EST > From: NSimon1111@aol.com > Subject: Rear Alignment Problem > > The E30 M3-based rear alignment on my 99 M Coupe is out of spec and I > need > advice whether/how to fix. > > Camber -- which is supposed to be -1.75 degrees +/- 0.50 -- is -1.28 on > the > right and > -2.24 on the left, a difference of almost a full degree. Total toe-in > -- > which is supposed to be 0.25" +/- -0.11" -- is 0.44". > > Because there is no rear alignment adjustment, should I consider > replacing > suspension members or having a body shop put car on frame machine, or do > I > leave alone? I'd prefer not using the KMAC eccentric bushings because it > > would move me into a different autox class. Advice would be much > appreciated. > > Neil > Wash, DC > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: Turner Speedvision 328i - from Bryan Watts
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 23:12:06 -0500 From: "Bryan Watts" <wattba02@wfu.edu> Subject: Re: Turner Speedvision 328i <<Oh really...then what is that M50 motor doing in there? Since when was the M50 motor available in a 328, even though Turner says it's right out one?? The manifold isn't a 328 manifold either.>> I have read the article, but I don't have it right in front of me. I can tell you that everything that I read in that article was extremely dated, even most of the pictures. I'm not sure when the article was written, but I don't think it was this season. Perhaps Will started out racing a 325 (M50) before he moved up to the 328's (M52)? That would be my only guess, as I seemed to read quite a few things in the article that were a bit behind the times. <<Also Turner says it has a big K&N filter....wrong again...it looks like the ITG foam filter...MINUS any heat sheilding I might add.>> Turner's early cars did run K&N's. This was pre-Conforti intake. That's another reason why I think the info in the article is outdated. Turner's car do now run ITG filters like the Conforti intake uses. <<Also, it looks like the HFM is TAPED directly to the filter and uses a long set of extensions way back to the throttle body. Why would they do that?? I though the HFM had to be a "spec" distance away from the filter to make sure the flow was not turbulent?>> Well, my guess is they wouldn't do anything that was harmful to making power. Perhaps they experimented on the dyno and found this to be beneficial? It could also have to do with the restrictor that they must run? Like I said, I read a lot of things in the article that didn't seem to mesh with what is happening with Turner's cars now. Perhaps the story was written a while ago and published now that World Challenge racing is becoming more popular. -Bryan Watts '92 325is KP/ITS...M50
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#4. stygar clutch pedal - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 23:48:54 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: stygar clutch pedal Kit, >>Just curious... what kind of clutches are you guys using? Mostly concerned with those of you using performance clutches. I'm thinking about doing a supercharger early next year (go market, go!) and I'm thinking that a stock clutch will be ok for a mild (6psi) setup. << I'm still on my stock clutch, after a year with 7.5 psi. What's changed in the year is that the clutch has gone from giving me a sharp, well defined engagement point, to a rather fuzzy, soft, and ill defined one. I doesnt slip unless I power shift, or otherwise try to 'test' it for slipping. I suspect it'll last at least another year, but if I were into serious competition with it, I would definitely want a stronger one. For instance, I'll be doing no more timed 0-60 runs with the one I've got. Times would suffer, and it would probably due whats left of the clutch in...I'll probably be investigating either AAs or the Sachs sport clutch in the next year...I'd love to get the dinan stage II clutch, but at near $2500, its more than twice the other two Ive mentioned... _____________________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3 <25000 mi Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals; X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio
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#5. Re: [E36M3] San Diego Trip - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 21:22:25 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] San Diego Trip You should see how fast you can go at 2:00am :) Glad you liked this place. Now go home and keep it to yourself :) Jim Bora Akyol wrote: > Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:39:52 -0800 > From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> > Subject: San Diego Trip > > I was in San Diego for about a week for the IETF meeting (www.ietf.org) but > had no time to hook up with any of the listers (had the wrong car anyway, > Q45). San Diego was as nice as I remembered. Now all I need to do is find a > job that pays me well, then we are all ready to move ;-) > > I was surprised at the lack of traffic anywhere even in rush hour. > > Bora > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > *************************************************************
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#6. Tranny Reinforcement-JTD STN Rings anyone? - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 08:29:16 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Tranny Reinforcement-JTD STN Rings anyone? I was wondering if anybody with JTD STN rings on the stock tranny mounts would share their impressions. I am looking at firming up the tranny mounts to reduce the possibility of mis-shifts due to tranny movement at track days. If you've tried another type of solution to this issue I'd be interested in hearing about it too. I didn't like the idea of having to drill out the existing mounting locations to use the 320i mounts. Thanks in advance, Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Delaware, OH
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#7. H&R Spring Swap questions (long) - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 08:54:25 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: H&R Spring Swap questions (long) I'm getting ready to swap in my H&R sport springs and wanted to run by the all knowing list the procedure as outlined in the Bentley manual. I'm not sure if all these steps are actually required so please comment on unnecessary steps or if you have helpful hints not listed in the Bentley manual. Also I was wondering if anyone has a complete list (p/n & quantity) of self-locking nut & bolts that need to be replaced during the swap so that I can purchase them in advance. Here's goes the Bentley listing: Front: 1. Raise car & remove front wheel 2. Unbolt brake caliper assy, and brake rotor 3. Remove ABS sensor assy 4. Disconnect ABS wiring harness and brake pad wear harness (left side) 5. Disconnect stabi bar link from strut 6. Unbolt splash shield & steering arm from strut 7. Support strut and remove the 3 strut mounting nuts 8. Lower strut out 9. Use spring compressor to unload spring 10. Remove strut top center nut while holding shaft stationary (is there a flat on the shaft or something??) 11. Remove upper strut components 12. Release spring compressor (slowly) 13. Swap spring and reverse to install Rear: (recommends to use a restraining chain on the spring but doesn't say anything more about it) 1. Raise car & remove front wheel 2. Support lwr control arm from below 3. Remove drive axle from final drive - Torx bolts (is this really necessary??) 4. Disconnect shock from trailing arm 5. Lower suspension slowly until spring is unloaded 6. Remove restraining chain and remove spring 7. Fit spring mounts to new spring and install restraining chain 8. Lift suspension back into position slowly making sure it's seated properly 9. Install shock absorber, remove restraining chain 10. Remainder is the reverse of install Thanks in advance for your comments! Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 Delaware, OH
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#8. Re: [E36M3] H&R Spring Swap questions (long) - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:24:53 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R Spring Swap questions (long) > 2. Unbolt brake caliper assy, and brake rotor You don't need to remove the brake rotor. > 6. Unbolt splash shield & steering arm from strut Step 6 is unnecessary. > 10. Remove strut top center nut while holding shaft stationary > (is there a flat on the shaft or something??) Use an impact gun to remove and install this nut. Nick
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#9. Re: [E36M3] H&R Spring Swap questions (long) - from NickG
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 09:35:48 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] H&R Spring Swap questions (long) Correction............ > > 6. Unbolt splash shield & steering arm from strut > > Step 6 is unnecessary. I meant to say you don't need to unbolt the splash shield. Obviously, you have to unbolt the spindle from the strut :o Nick
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Tranny Reinforcement-JTD STN Rings anyone? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 07:48:17 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Tranny Reinforcement-JTD STN Rings anyone? I've had the rings on my car for about three weeks now. They do make each gear change feel more authoritative and it feels like the drivetrain is more directly connected to the chassis. This is evident by some increased cabin noise (a slightly buzz and some resonance) and a different sound when upshifting through the gears (similar to the JTD tranny brace). I will take them off shortly since it's Winter and I'll settle for a little less cabin noise. I'll put them back on for autocrosses and track events since it's *that easy* (you can install them in 2 - 3 minutes) and that's what it was designed for. HTH, Chester --- Jeremy Lucas <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> wrote: > Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 08:29:16 -0500 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Tranny Reinforcement-JTD STN Rings anyone? > > I was wondering if anybody with JTD STN rings on the stock tranny mounts > would share their impressions. I am looking at firming up the tranny > mounts to reduce the possibility of mis-shifts due to tranny movement at > track days. If you've tried another type of solution to this issue I'd > be interested in hearing about it too. I didn't like the idea of having > to drill out the existing mounting locations to use the 320i mounts. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/