E36M3 #801

Thursday, December 28, 2000 07:54:00

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. [Fwd: Underdrive pulleys] - from Sue Kraft
#2. Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes - from Matt Henson
#3. RE: [E36M3] Suzy's Big Adventure - from Roman
#4. Re:Debating Suspension Options - from Peter Fanning
#5. Re: Bike Racks? - from BURKE,SEAN
#6. Re: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options - from Chris Teague
#7. Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes - from Bora Akyol
#8. Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
#9. nurburgring (no e36m3 content) - from Scott Smith
#10. Door Panel side strip - from Ed Tang

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#1. [Fwd: Underdrive pulleys] - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 17:43:46 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: [Fwd: Underdrive pulleys] -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Underdrive pulleys Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:21:29 -0800 From: "Krause, Andy" <andy_krause@mentorg.com> To: suzy@bmwmpower.com CC: e36m3@Mailing-List.net After reading the posts and replies contained in the FAQ Underdrive pulleys, I thought I would post a link to Steve Dinans opinion regarding over/underdrive pulleys. www.dinanbmw.com/html/danger_of_power_pulleys.htm . Thanks for your time Andy Krause

Reply to: Sue Kraft

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#2. Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes - from Matt Henson
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:16:27 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes Hi Kit, As I recall you went with a lightweight flywheel, right? Did you switch your clutch disk for a spring centered type? Most people don't. That's why you're getting noise. The factory flywheel is a dual mass beast that dampens the noise, making the spring centered disk unnecessary. Does anyone have a source for a spring centered clutch disk? -Matt --- Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 15:33:08 -0800 > From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: squealing brakes > > > Aiya. I just put a set of Hawk HP Plus pads on my > car. They squeal > like there's no tomorrow. Now, I know this sounds > like a newbie > question, but I've been changing my own pads for 5 > years. Since I do > track events, I swap pads probably 10-15 times a > year. > > I just put on new rotors and new pads. I know that > I'm not supposed to > bed new pads with new rotors, but I got lazy. > Anyway, I've pulled the > pads off, sanded them, scuffed the rotors, cleaned > the pads and rotors, > I've applied anti-squeal grease from Permatex (the > blue stuff), and I've > tried getting them nice and hot. Still no luck, > they still squeal like > banshees. Admittedly, they're better, but I still > get funny looks. :( > > So. Does anyone have any more suggestions for > stopping brake squeal? > Also, anyone know where to get new pad shims? Or > can someone suggest a > different brand of anti-squeal goop? My Pagid > street pads don't squeal, > but don't stop nearly as well and dust a lot. :/ > > BTW, got the flywheel in. I get a little bit of > noise when I go up > through 2000 - 3000 rpm, and a really faint noise at > idle. I think > those are normal? I didn't replace the fork, and > still get a normal > engagement, in fact, it's higher than it was before. > (probably because > my stock clutch was starting to go... I put a new > one in while the > tranny was out) I did figure out that the clutch > was the reason the > silly UUC clutch stop didn't fit... with the new > clutch, it fits fine. > I replaced both the pilot bearing and the throwout > bearing while I was > in there, also. > > Now that the new clutch is in, I notice much more > acceleration in first > and second... 3rd, 4th, 5th all seem a bit torquier > and the car > generally responds better... Guess it's time for a > set of sway bars, > next. > > -kit > 97 m3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/

Reply to: Matt Henson

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#3. RE: [E36M3] Suzy's Big Adventure - from Roman
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:51:04 -0800 From: Roman <roman@arteuro.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Suzy's Big Adventure Sue, "May the Force be with you" :) Happy New Year!!! Roman 96 ///M3 -----Original Message----- From: Sue Kraft To: E36M3 Sent: 12/27/00 12:32 PM Subject: [E36M3] Suzy's Big Adventure Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 14:28:04 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: Suzy's Big Adventure Just want to let everyone know that I will be leaving for the Consumer Electronic Show in Vegas next week (Jan 2) and will be gone for about 10 days. If there are any problems with the list please contact the server <jrather@chemsoft.com> He will be glad to assist. This will be my first big assignment for the audio publication I am writing for........wish me luck! (The name of the magazine is The Absolute Sound for those of you that are into high end audio) When I return from the show there will be some changes for the list and bmwmpower web site, but I will explain more later. Until then, I hope everyone is enjoying the holidays! Suzy ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. *************************************************************

Reply to: Roman

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#4. Re:Debating Suspension Options - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 17:35:30 -0800 From: Peter Fanning <pfanning@premier1.net> Subject: Re:Debating Suspension Options Greg, Your M3 use is about the same as mine (except I don't have the patience to autocross). Our 98 M3/4 suspension is stock less Koni single adjustable struts/shocks, RSM's, X-brace and aggressive alignment. I think the car both handles and rides better with the Koni's than the OEM struts/shocks. I certainly recommend the Koni's. If you've got the extra pennies, have the rears made externally adjustable and cut an access port into the trunk lining (easy adjustment for track days). ProParts will even build up the front struts if you promise to return your old ones. An additional question for those of you with single adjustable Koni's, how do you have them set at the track. I run mine ~ 3/4 of a turn from soft in the rear and 1/2 turn from soft in the front for street and track. I played with stiffening the front at the track but the car didn't 'feel' as good. Thanks, Peter Fanning At 05:52 PM 12/27/2000 -0600, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:26:02 -0600 >From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.net> >Subject: Debating Suspension Options > >Group, > >I am in the process of deciding what to do about the suspension on my 98 >M3/4. > >-SNIP - > > >My preferences and thoughts: >I am quite happy with the stock M3 suspension and am seriously considering >replacing the struts with new factory struts. I know the popular E36M3 list >suspension mod is the Bilstein/H&R setup. I have tried M3s with this setup. >I think it is stiffer than I want. Actually, I think it is stiffer than >optimal for most conditions. I like adjustability. > >My intended use: >Mostly street driven but willing to make some sacrifice (see alignment >settings) for good track and autocross performance. Plan on doing 8-12 >track days in the next year (more if I can) and a few autocrosses (to get a >temporary fix). > >Setups being considered: >1. Ground Control Advanced Design Struts/Shocks (non-coil over setup) with >the stock springs and swapped hats (their camber plates are designed for >coil-overs) >2. Koni Double Adjustables with stock springs/hats >3. Option 1 or 2 with a different spring, but don't want un-necessary >harshness and bad every-day street ride >4. Ground Control Advanced Design Struts/Shocks with Ground Control >coil-over setup (not sure on spring rates) >5. Some other coil-over setup > >Do any of you have any comments or suggestions? I am planning on having >this discussion with Jay at Ground Control (waiting for a call back) and >with someone at TC Kline (haven't called yet), but thought I would run it by >this/these groups too. > >Thanks in advance, >Greg Cernosek >Dallas, TX >98 M3/4 with some cool stuff

Reply to: Peter Fanning

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#5. Re: Bike Racks? - from BURKE,SEAN
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 22:09:35 -0500 From: "BURKE,SEAN" <sburke@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: Bike Racks? I use one of the Thule trunk racks (I think the Voyager 2) on my '98 Sedan. It's performed very well, and adjusts nicely to hold my Mongoose NX7.7, which is a rather odd-shaped frame. It holds up to 2 bikes, but I don't like the loading that 2 puts on the trunk. It's just fine with one though. --Sean '98 M3/4 Sharked Dinan Airbox UUC Clutch Stop (The best $20 appliance foot I ever bought) >I am looking for some sort of set-up to carry my Cannondale on my 4 door. >Can anyone make any recommendations? > >I've looked at the Yakima and Thule kits, which are spendy but seem >good. I'd prefer to avoid going with a tow hitch solution. > >Any help is appreciated. Thanks. > >-peterg -- Sean M. Burke Senior Network Engineer Gerbig, Snell, Weisheimer, and Assoc. Email: Sburke@columbus.rr.com

Reply to: BURKE,SEAN

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 19:12:56 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options I have the single adjustable Koni's, and they are real comfortable on the street. I use my M3/4 for street and autocross use, and for that, I have the rears set full stiff (just backed off slightly from the end of adjustment range), and the front full stiff. I still get a little understeer in the autocross, but I am running SCCA AS, so I can't get much camber (0.7 deg.). I am thinking of ordering rear double adjustables to increase the rear rebound rate so I have more adjustment stiffer to try, and so they are externally adjustable so I can soften the rear slightly for the street. I have not found out how much that those would be yet though. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Fanning" <pfanning@premier1.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 5:42 PM Subject: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options ...snip... > An additional question for those of you with single adjustable Koni's, how > do you have them set at the track. I run mine ~ 3/4 of a turn from soft in > the rear and 1/2 turn from soft in the front for street and track. I > played with stiffening the front at the track but the car didn't 'feel' as > good. > > Thanks, > > Peter Fanning >

Reply to: Chris Teague

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#7. Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 20:39:37 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes Make sure you use teflon grease and teflon tape on the polyurethane bushings. Of course if you don't want the poly bushings, you may go with a Dinan Stage II/III setup. Both of these seem to handle very well. Bora ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmwmpower.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 3:42 PM Subject: [E36M3] squealing brakes > Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 15:33:08 -0800 > From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: squealing brakes > > > Aiya. I just put a set of Hawk HP Plus pads on my car. They squeal > like there's no tomorrow. Now, I know this sounds like a newbie > question, but I've been changing my own pads for 5 years. Since I do > track events, I swap pads probably 10-15 times a year. > > I just put on new rotors and new pads. I know that I'm not supposed to > bed new pads with new rotors, but I got lazy. Anyway, I've pulled the > pads off, sanded them, scuffed the rotors, cleaned the pads and rotors, > I've applied anti-squeal grease from Permatex (the blue stuff), and I've > tried getting them nice and hot. Still no luck, they still squeal like > banshees. Admittedly, they're better, but I still get funny looks. :( > > So. Does anyone have any more suggestions for stopping brake squeal? > Also, anyone know where to get new pad shims? Or can someone suggest a > different brand of anti-squeal goop? My Pagid street pads don't squeal, > but don't stop nearly as well and dust a lot. :/ > > BTW, got the flywheel in. I get a little bit of noise when I go up > through 2000 - 3000 rpm, and a really faint noise at idle. I think > those are normal? I didn't replace the fork, and still get a normal > engagement, in fact, it's higher than it was before. (probably because > my stock clutch was starting to go... I put a new one in while the > tranny was out) I did figure out that the clutch was the reason the > silly UUC clutch stop didn't fit... with the new clutch, it fits fine. > I replaced both the pilot bearing and the throwout bearing while I was > in there, also. > > Now that the new clutch is in, I notice much more acceleration in first > and second... 3rd, 4th, 5th all seem a bit torquier and the car > generally responds better... Guess it's time for a set of sway bars, > next. > > -kit > 97 m3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > ************************************************************* > >

Reply to: Bora Akyol

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#8. Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 23:52:20 -0500 From: kmcleaster@iquest.net Subject: Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? Right after I got my '95 M3 I bought a set of used snow wheels and tires from Jeff at www.driversedge.com. I expressed interest in a set of wheel locks for my factory wheels and Jeff showed me set of "Euro Lock" stainless steel wheel locks manufactured by E.R. Chiavon & Sons mfg. Jeff was not real fond of wheel locks but thought these were as good as any. He ended up throwing them in with the snow wheels. I use them on the factory wheels and haven't had any problems with them. They are the type that use a special socket adapter. The adapter fits ok in the ash tray along with the cigarette lighter. There is a cap that threads over the top of the bolt that engages the socket adapter that looks just like a standard hex bolt head. With this cap in position, the locking bolts look just like regular lug bolts except for the S.S. color. I must say these are really nice looking bolts as far as bolts go. It would be nice to have S.S. bolts for the other four positions but I'd rather spend the $ elsewhere. Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3 Arctic Silver

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#9. nurburgring (no e36m3 content) - from Scott Smith
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 22:17:38 -0800 From: Scott Smith <ssmith@akamai.com> Subject: nurburgring (no e36m3 content) I know alot of you out there do the BMWCCA Nurburgring trip, but, uh, ever drive the track backwards? http://www.wheeltorque.freeserve.co.uk/page3.html Scott (took me long enough to learn it forwards; how the hell do you go backwards?)

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#10. Door Panel side strip - from Ed Tang
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 05:47:56 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Door Panel side strip Hi all, The side strip on my passenger door came loose at one end. It looks like there is a gum-like material that attaches to the hole where it came loose. Has anyone had this happen and how do you adhere it back in? Will I have to remove the door panel? TIA Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 Flappin' side moulding __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/

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