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#1. Bad window Motor? - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 06:56:33 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Bad window Motor? Hi Folks, My early '95 M3's driver's side window has started to malfunction. Sometimes when I press the up button it will make a pop noise and stop moving. If I press up again it's fine. NickG has explained that this is caused by a faulty microswitch within the motor. Has anyone else seen this problem? Or replaced the switch? Does anyone have a reasonably lo-mi window motor lying around, maybe from their converted race car? Thanks, Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#2. Fender rolling tool in Pittsburgh mid-January - from vernon@sprynet.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 10:30:52 -0500 From: vernon@sprynet.com Subject: Fender rolling tool in Pittsburgh mid-January Hello everyone, I am scheduled to receive the Tire Rack fender roller machine within the next two weeks. Myself and some others are planning to meet at McB Autosport in Bridgeville (South Hills of Pittsburgh) and roll away!!!! We are tentatively planning for the weekend of 1/13-1/14. If anyone is interested in traveling to the Pittsburgh area and joining us to have their fenders rolled, let me know. After I see what the response is, I'll get back to you with a confirmed date/time and more info. Happy Holidays everyone, Vern Anderson
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#3. Front suspension "grinding" noise- 95 M3 - from Steve
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:50:00 -0800 From: Steve <sgrigory@pacbell.net> Subject: Front suspension "grinding" noise- 95 M3 Lately, I've noticed a grinding noise that seems to come from the front of my car. I'm using the word "grinding" somewhat loosely since the noise is somewhat subtle. Here's what happens... At say anything over 40 mph and especially on the freeway if the car is moving in a straight line or turning to the left, there is no noise- the "grinding" is not present. If the car is turning right, then you hear the noise. It's a low noise and is present for as long as the car is turning right. By turning, I mean simply following a bend in the freeway or changing lanes, even changing lanes slowly. I'm not referring to a high load turn on a mountain road or anything like that. A bit of history- The car has 45k miles and has been to a few open track events (only four days worth in total) but has not been to an open track event for over a year (sadly!). Six months ago the stock suspension was replaced by a Stage III Dinan suspension. The brakes were replaced one year ago with stock rotors and non-stock pads. The only servicing the car has had is the 30k mile dealer service. So I have a theory on what it might be (using my "deep" knowledge of suspensions :) ) but I'll keep my mouth shut so I won't taint the feedback. I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem and how to verify the root cause. Thanks! steve
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#4. Re: Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 17:14:58 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? These are the locks that I have on my car. I purchased them from Bavarin Autosport. See page 43 of the latest catalog. The plastic caps are available in silver or black, and black perfectly matches the lug bolts. -rb >Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 23:52:20 -0500 >From: kmcleaster@iquest.net >Subject: Re: Wheel lock or not to Wheel lock? > >Right after I got my '95 M3 I bought a set of used snow wheels and tires >from Jeff at www.driversedge.com. > >I expressed interest in a set of wheel locks for my factory wheels and Jeff >showed me set of "Euro Lock" stainless steel wheel locks manufactured by >E.R. Chiavon & Sons mfg. Jeff was not real fond of wheel locks but thought >these were as good as any. He ended up throwing them in with the snow >wheels. > >I use them on the factory wheels and haven't had any problems with them. >They are the type that use a special socket adapter. The adapter fits ok in >the ash tray along with the cigarette lighter. There is a cap that threads >over the top of the bolt that engages the socket adapter that looks just >like a standard hex bolt head. > >With this cap in position, the locking bolts look just like regular lug >bolts except for the S.S. color. > >I must say these are really nice looking bolts as far as bolts go. It would >be nice to have S.S. bolts for the other four positions but I'd rather >spend the $ elsewhere. > >Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI >'95 M3 Arctic Silver _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. Services @ 105K - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 09:16:07 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Services @ 105K Fellow listers, My '95 is about to hit 105K. I plan on taking her in for a couple of minor services (some HVAC stuff), and would like to have the car thoroughly looked over for any problems. Is there anything specific I should have them check for? Anything I should consider doing now that I've passed the 100k mark? The car is going to see extensive autocross and (hopefully extensive) track time this year, so I want to make sure she's in tip-top shape. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Front suspension "grinding" noise- 95 M3 - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 12:41:54 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front suspension "grinding" noise- 95 M3 Steve, Sounds like a bad wheel bearing. Is it sort of a droning noise? That is typically a wheel bearing. Turning one way or the other usually makes the droning stop or get worse. If yes, then I suspect it is one of your front wheel bearings. By your description (noise present when turning right), I would guess it is the left wheel bearing. Wheel bearings failing at 45,000 miles in pretty unusual but stranger things have happened. BTW: Man! You need to drive that M3 more! ;-) I thought I had a low mileage '95 - 45,722 miles. The latest Roundel cracked me up. There were eight '95 M3's listed for sale. Four under 20,000 miles. One only has 3,800 miles!!! Why the heck would anybody buy a car and only drive it 760 miles a year? The idiot wants $32,000 for it. I paid $34,500 for mine brand spanking new with a 4 year warranty. Good luck buster. :) Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - Out of warranty and seeing more use Dallas, Texas
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#7. Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes - from Sean Hester
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 10:25:56 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] squealing brakes >I just put on new rotors and new pads. I know that I'm not supposed to >bed new pads with new rotors, but I got lazy. that's kind of a myth. there's no problem doing that as long as you do it "right". with both parts being new, it's 100 times more important to do a good bedding job. but as long as you do, you'll be fine. lots of people say "don't do both at once" becuase they figure the customer WON'T do a good bedding job, and doing one at a time makes the bedding process easier, and shorter, and less important. >So. Does anyone have any more suggestions for stopping brake squeal? use street pads. race pads make noise, it's how they stop your car faster. ;-) >Also, anyone know where to get new pad shims? Or can someone suggest a >different brand of anti-squeal goop? My Pagid street pads don't squeal, >but don't stop nearly as well and dust a lot. :/ brake performance, and noise seem to be mutually exclusive. i troed for three years and then gave up. your choices seem to be "noise and good". "quiet and not as good". i'm 99% sure that any backing material (weather solid like a shim, or liquit like that goopy stuff) won't stand up to the 1200 degree temps you'll find at the track anyway. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options - from Sean Hester
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 10:35:40 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:Debating Suspension Options >An additional question for those of you with single adjustable Koni's, how >do you have them set at the track. I run mine ~ 3/4 of a turn from soft in >the rear and 1/2 turn from soft in the front for street and track. I >played with stiffening the front at the track but the car didn't 'feel' as >good. that's my street setting. (i may even have told you to try that setting?) i stiffen up the fronts for the track. 1 turn on a normal seattle, it might rain at any minute, day. on a really sunny day, when i feel good and want to go faster i might use 1.5 or even 2 turns. making the fronts stiffer dials out some understeer, but adds oversteer on the exit of corners. you're right that that makes the car "feel" not nearly as good. but it's faster. i remember one day when steve dinan wa instructing me at a CCA day. he said "racing is not comfortable, it's not supposed to be. if it were comfortable everyone would be good at it." that really did me lots of good (for my racing career). i had "hit the wall" because when the car felt "wierd" i'd slow down thinking something was wrong. after i heard what steve said, it occured to me that i was slowing down when i didn't need to. and many races later, i can say that he is very right. a car at the limit doesn't feel good, and you have to get used to the feeling. if you're 100% comfortable driving a car, you're only going about 90% as fast as you could be. not that i'm suggesting that everyone go out to a CCA day and be uncomfortable. that's not the goal there. you need ot be 100% in control on a lapping day. 90% as fast as you can go is PLENTY fast for a CCA day. but... for car setup purposes (performance related at least) you can't really go by "feel". P.S. it's similar to what i always say when people say "vipers are so fast". my response is "but i hate driving them, they feel like crap, even though they are going fast". > >Thanks, > > Peter Fanning > > >At 05:52 PM 12/27/2000 -0600, you wrote: >>Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 16:26:02 -0600 >>From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.net> >>Subject: Debating Suspension Options >> >>Group, >> >>I am in the process of deciding what to do about the suspension on my 98 >>M3/4. >> >>-SNIP - >> >> >>My preferences and thoughts: >>I am quite happy with the stock M3 suspension and am seriously considering >>replacing the struts with new factory struts. I know the popular E36M3 >>list >>suspension mod is the Bilstein/H&R setup. I have tried M3s with this >>setup. >>I think it is stiffer than I want. Actually, I think it is stiffer than >>optimal for most conditions. I like adjustability. >> >>My intended use: >>Mostly street driven but willing to make some sacrifice (see alignment >>settings) for good track and autocross performance. Plan on doing 8-12 >>track days in the next year (more if I can) and a few autocrosses (to get >>a >>temporary fix). >> >>Setups being considered: >>1. Ground Control Advanced Design Struts/Shocks (non-coil over setup) with >>the stock springs and swapped hats (their camber plates are designed for >>coil-overs) >>2. Koni Double Adjustables with stock springs/hats >>3. Option 1 or 2 with a different spring, but don't want un-necessary >>harshness and bad every-day street ride >>4. Ground Control Advanced Design Struts/Shocks with Ground Control >>coil-over setup (not sure on spring rates) >>5. Some other coil-over setup >> >>Do any of you have any comments or suggestions? I am planning on having >>this discussion with Jay at Ground Control (waiting for a call back) and >>with someone at TC Kline (haven't called yet), but thought I would run it >>by >>this/these groups too. >> >>Thanks in advance, >>Greg Cernosek >>Dallas, TX >>98 M3/4 with some cool stuff > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >************************************************************* > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. UUC swaybar kit for sale - from Ed Tang
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 11:21:32 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: UUC swaybar kit for sale Hi all, Due to a lot of laziness, I never installed my UUC SwayBarbarians (95-99 M3). I just had my flywheel and clutch replaced and x-mas gifts really wiped me out. These bars are brand new and include the polyurethane bushings, rear sway bar links, washers, nuts and bolts. I even have lithium grease I probably won't need. I'm selling the set for $400 plus shipping. If you're in Chicago, I'll be more than happy to assist in the install. e-mail me privately if interested. Thanks. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#10. FS: Wheels take off - from Davy Chou
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 12:21:14 -0800 From: Davy Chou <chou.d@apple.com> Subject: FS: Wheels take off BMW 330i original stock wheels (4) for sale. They were only used for 2 months and taken off the car. No curb dings-one wheel has slight scratches on the edge during cleaning and storage. Thesse rims are 17"x7.0" cast alloy with BMW center caps and boxed to ship. Buyer will have to pay for shipping/handling charges. Here are more photos of the wheels: http://members2.clubphoto.com/ebrahim216943/Dec_26_2000/