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#1. Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:13:40 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Just wondering how difficult it is to polish and smooth the inside of a '96+ M3 header. Whenever you hear of car tuners, you always hear that they polished and I would assume smooothed the insides of the header. How difficult is this task? Also, any ideas on where to get supplies? Skip? Thanks, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#2. Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:14:01 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Just wondering how difficult it is to polish and smooth the inside of a '96+ M3 header. Whenever you hear of car tuners, you always hear that they polished and I would assume smooothed the insides of the header. How difficult is this task? Also, any ideas on where to get supplies? Skip? Thanks, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#3. Road One Track Time - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:18:05 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Road One Track Time Due to circumstances beyond my control (doesn't everyone have a boss, somewhere?) I will not be able to go to the Performance Driving Event put on by Road One on January 22nd at Buttonwillow. Instead I'll be winging my way eastward to Washington DC. Grrrr... I absolutely love this event. Its first class in every way. If anyone can make this school and use my slot, they won't regret it. Contact Jordan D'Alessio for more information at jordantii@earthlink.net or on his cell at 323-855-6725. I'm serious. I'm probably the hardest guy on the planet to make happy and I love this event. Somebody take this spot, its too good to pass up. Jim
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#4. RE: Crumple zones and roll cages - from Davis, Jake A
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:24:15 -0600 From: "Davis, Jake A" <Jake.Davis@SW.Boeing.com> Subject: RE: Crumple zones and roll cages <<but, for real race cars the entire car is a rigid cage. trunk, engine bay, everything. so... no crumple zones.>> Well, not really. Almost all race cars have 'crumple zones' also. They're certainly a lot stiffer than a street car's crumple zones, but the idea is still the same. Often the process of converting street cars to race cars does reduce the size of the crumple zones. As said before, the whole idea is to dissipate the energy prior to it reaching the occupant and maximize the time over which the energy is dissipated. Take a look at a NASCAR chassis. Yes, it's very stiff, but the roll cage is built to minimize any possible deformation, while the front and rear clips allow quite a bit more deformation. May not be the best example though, as excessive chassis rigidity may have contributed to the tragedies in WC and BGN this past year. The other tactic is to allow parts and pieces to be torn away, dissipating the energy and stretching out the dissipation time, i.e the hailstorm of parts that come off a Champ or IRL car when they whack the wall Have you seen Geoff Bodine's truck crash at Daytona. The only thing left was the roll cage, everything else was gone. F1 and ALMS chassis must be crash tested before the are approved for competition. They too use crumple zones to protect the driver. Jake Davis
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#5. Re: crumple zones - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:00:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: crumple zones on 1/11/01 14:03, "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> wrote: > i'm still a bit confused. > > roll cages are good if you have a good harness. that makes sense. > > crumple zones are better if you only have a pretty worless seat belt. that > makes sense too. > > but... which system is best for ultimate protection? the "cage/harness" > system? or the "crumple zone/lame setbelt/airbags all over the place" > system? > > since race cars use the "cage/harness" system, i'd assume that was the > better way to go. do passenger cars use the "crumple zone/lame > setbelt/airbags all over the place" system because the public doesn't want > to be bothered with having to put in a 5 point harness when they drive? Both your race car and a street car have exactly the same system: energy absorbing crumple zones front and rear, with a safety cage in between containing restrained passengers. The differences are just of degree, both in the case of the structures and also the restraint system. Plus there are some application tweaks, such as the need not to hit your unprotected head an intrusive roll bar/cage. The current safety situation in NASCAR is an illustration of crumple zone issue. A stock car - in the NASCAR sense of the word, i.e. having not the least part of it even remotely stock - has a massive tubular chassis built pretty much without regard to weight. Notice how little damaged these cars sometimes appear, considering how hard and fast they've hit the wall. They can impose enormous deceleration loads on the occupant in a severe impact. Despite their fragile appearance, open wheeled racers such as those in F1, CART and Indy can absorb a lot of energy as their carbon fibre shells shatter on impact. While I'm no big fan of the Indy car series, these guys have been leaders in racecar safety innovation. An obvious external sign is the impact absorbing carbon fibre tailpiece mounted on the back of each gearbox. Of course it's easier when you only have a couple of chassis and drivetrains to regulate. The real challenge is side impact protection. There's no room for a crumple zone, so you have to go with as much strength as is practical. Hence beams hidden inside the doors of a passenger car, or in the case of a racer big tubes across the door aperture. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Re: bentley manual and stock Alar - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 20:45:52 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar Wow Ron, thanks for the operational details. I was a bit vague in my first post, so here we go: Doors unlocked but closed, hood and trunk closed. I press the button to arm/lock and a I get one bwoop-beep. That's it, no siren, no door locks. I can't remember if the parking lights flashed or not. Doors locked but closed, hodd and trunk closed. One beep. Same thing. Doors open, same thing. Hood open, same thing. Holding down button in any mode, same thing. I think even sitting in car with it running it would just give the quick one-two beep and that's it. So, I now have the unit on my desk. Part number 82 11 1 469 445. I noticed the cable that comes out of it did have several pigtails off of it, one seemingly ominous wire going to what I think is the K-40 radar detector. I think that it is wired for 12V. One factory looking one seems to go to another pigtail of wires. And of course it has a little ground wire that is capped off and does not go to anything. Does anyone have an installation instruction packet for this thing? I'll see if I can get a good 12V from the source, but it looks like the Bentley for Ohming out the wires and checking connections. Either that or swap in another unit and see what happens. The quest goes on... Thanks for the help! Jonathan Evans 95M3 Raleigh, NC >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: jonathanevans@hotmail.com >CC: e36m3@bmw-m.net >Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar >Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:49:31 > >Jonathan writes: >> >>Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:48:21 >>From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> >>Subject: bentley manual and stock Alarm >> >>I've promised myself not to upgrade the car until what is now installed on >>the car is in perfect working order. >> >>So, my 95 that I got about 6 months ago has the alarm siren, the alarm >>button on the keychain, but to the best of my knowledge, the alarm will >>never, ever go off. It just beeps when you press the button. A reputable >>stereo shop tried to hook up the door locks to > > >Does the keychain remote have a fresh battery? > >What "just beeps"? Your horn? The alarm siren? Do you mean that it beeps >when you lock/unlock doors? How did you test to see if the alarm works? > >In addition to activating the siren, the alarm system will flash the LED to >indicate which zone triggered the alarm. So, even though your siren >doesn't activate, does the LED at least flash 1-4 times (to indicate >whether Zone 1, 2, 3, or 4 tripped the alarm?)? i don't remember which >zones correspond to which areas of the car, but the four monitored zones >are (in no specific order): > >Hood >Trunk >Doors >Glass > > >Does the keychain remote lock and unlock your doors? If so, then the alarm >module is working. > >Maybe the alarms are being triggered, but your siren is bad, or the wiring >to the siren is broken? > >You should be able to press and hold the PANIC button on your keychain >remote and trigger the alarm. Does the siren work at that time? > >You can test your alarm's operation. For example, to test the 'Hood' zone, >open your hood, close your doors, depress (and hold) the hood switch, then >lock+double lock your alarm system (to activate the alarm). Is the in-car >alarm LED flashing? Your alarm system is activated. Now, release the hood >switch, and the alarm should trigger. You should hear three beeps, and >then the alarm should go into full siren. > >You can test the trunk zone and door zone in a similar way, although you'll >need to depress the little switch in the door jamb in order to 'fake' a >door closure. > >To test glass breakage, you can rap your keys against a window. This will >trigger the glass breakage alarm. > >> >>Does anyone know where this alarm would be if there was one? I've been >>told it is easy to install one, so how easy would it be to uninstall one? >>Maybe the entire module is missing? > >The alarm module is located under the dash, behind the glovebox. If you >remove the lower dash cover, you'll find it back there. > >While installing my gauges, I ran across the alarm module and discovered >why my car wasn't tripping the alarm when the hood was opened - the >installer never hooked up the hood switch wire to the alarm module. DUH! > >> >>Does the Bentley manual have wiring diagrams for the alarm module in car >>preinstalled wiring? Convince me to get a Bentley! > >I don't have the Bentley manual here, but it does have wiring diagrams in >the back. I don't believe that you'll find a separate diagram for the >alarm system, but the components and wiring (including color coding) are >shown on one of the diagrams. > >-rb > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#7. Autocross Helmets - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:53:49 -0600 From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR <chris.darling@SCOTT.AF.MIL> Subject: Autocross Helmets Question for the Solo II racers out there: is my Snell 90 Bell helmet still good for this season (2001)????? ------------end Cod Major Chris Darling HQ AMC/CEXR DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698
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#8. RE: [E36M3] crumple zones - from JEFFHARKER@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:06:45 EST From: JEFFHARKER@aol.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] crumple zones > but... which system is best for ultimate protection? the "cage/harness" > system? or the "crumple zone/lame setbelt/airbags all over the place" > system? If you do it up good, you need both working for you. See <http://www.koalamotorsport.com/ouch/default.htm> 'nuff said. --jeff Hoosier Chapter
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Autocross Helmets - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 13:21:22 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Autocross Helmets According to posted SCCA rules, it's '90 or better (usually current, plus last two generations). -p > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:53:49 -0600 > From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR <chris.darling@SCOTT.AF.MIL> > Subject: Autocross Helmets > > > Question for the Solo II racers out there: is my Snell 90 Bell helmet > still good for this season (2001)????? > > ------------end > > Cod > Major Chris Darling > HQ AMC/CEXR > DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698 > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Autocross Helmets - from Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:31:28 -0600 From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR <chris.darling@scott.af.mil> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Autocross Helmets Yeah, but I was alarmed by a recent statement in my SCCA regional (St Louis) newsletter. Said something about 95 or better . . . I guess my question is: As far as SCCA is concerned, when will my SA90 helmet expire? -----Original Message----- From: peter@guagenti.com [ mailto:peter@guagenti.com <mailto:peter@guagenti.com> ] Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 7:21 AM To: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR; E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Autocross Helmets According to posted SCCA rules, it's '90 or better (usually current, plus last two generations). -p > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 14:53:49 -0600 > From: Darling Christopher Maj AMC/CEXR <chris.darling@SCOTT.AF.MIL> > Subject: Autocross Helmets > > > Question for the Solo II racers out there: is my Snell 90 Bell helmet > still good for this season (2001)????? > > ------------end > > Cod > Major Chris Darling > HQ AMC/CEXR > DSN 779-0698, Comm (618) 229-0698 > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com <http://www.hispeed.com>