-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: big boy clutch stop on 97 m3 - from BURKE,SEAN
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:08:13 -0500 From: "BURKE,SEAN" <sburke@columbus.rr.com> Subject: RE: big boy clutch stop on 97 m3 >-------------------- 11 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:40:42 -0600 >From: "eugene han" <gene501@hotmail.com> >Subject: big boy clutch stop on 97 m3 >Anyone install one of these in a 97 or later car with >success?? I have one on my 98 M3/4. It works great. --Sean '98 Arctic Silver M3/4 Sharked Dinan Airbox (until this summer) UUC 'Big Boy' Clutch Stop--The best $20 appliance foot I ever bought 1 year of ownership on 1/10/01--The best thing I ever did :)
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] heated seat problem - from Mdriver13@aol.com
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:11:48 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] heated seat problem In a message dated 1/11/01 7:21:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, jsp98m3@apexcone.com writes: Stop using the heater while the heating element still works. Have the seat taken apart and replace the leather. Or at least correct the short and insulate the heating pad to prevent reoccurence. Thanks to Jim and others, Yes....will not be using the seat heater for a while. Timing is everything. In November I took the car to my dealer to fix a few little things before my warranty expired. Well, to check a 'lump' in the driver seat they pulled the back seat cover off and ripped it. They have ordered me new leather (back, seat, and headrest), so it all matches. This is a good dealership. First mistake they made working on the car. Now they can fix the seat warmer when they remove the cover. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 13 BSP 2001
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] High flow cats (was: Re: Polishing headers) - from Seth Thomas
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:52:07 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] High flow cats (was: Re: Polishing headers) Saturday, I am going to buy a 1988 E30 M3 from one of my friends. This car is not an ordinary E30. It has a 3.0L from a M3. It has the stainless headers off a 1996+ M3 and a set of Random Technologies High Flow cats. Do they make a difference? They make a huge difference on the car. The car feels more like an E36 with a euro motor. It pulls a lot harder in the upper RPMs than a 3.0L with the same except with the factory cats. The mid section was custom made and lacks a crossover pipe piece to make it even better. I don't know how these would work with OBDII as I don't know about the necessary read out that the second O2 sensor sends. If the high flow cats don't dispose of the correct amount of pollution as the stock ones then it might set of a check engine light. I can tell that they work on an OBDI car though. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com www.m3power.com -----Original Message----- From: Chester Wong [mailto:chester_p_wong@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 6:43 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] High flow cats (was: Re: Polishing headers) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:34:12 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: High flow cats (was: Re: Polishing headers) Well, let me ask this question: If all along people are saying that SuperSprint headers are useless without taking out the cats, then why haven't people used high flow cats? What would be the benefit if we just replaced the OE cats with high flow models? You can still make it such that you retained the factory locations of the O2 sensors. Then you'd have no problem with OBDII, right? Then if after you went with high flow cats, what would stop someone from going with SuperSprint headers? Any thoughts? Chester > I believe you can extrude hone the headers to wisk > away imperfections in the metal. They shoot a silly > putty through the header and supposedly it comes out > smooth. They do it for throttle bodies and intake > headers/plenums (metal-we get the plastic ones). The > Ford Contour SVT has this process done with some other > intake mods for a 20 hp gain. I don't believe the > gains justify the costs though. I called the company a > couple years back when it was first introduced and > they quoted something pretty high to get only minimal > gains. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces - from Skip Bogard
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:16:06 -0500 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces The only blue printing I've had done on my exhaust is where the exhaust ports meet the gasket and then correspondingly the cast iron header (on my '95 3.0L).... ....because not accidently blocking the port with gasket material obviously deserves attention. It's more of a gasket alignment problem than a machining issue. I had my '95 header ceramic coated inside & out. Did this smooth my cast iron header? Maybe a little, but its not super smooth. If I wanted to spend more money on the exhaust, I think I'd bug someone to design a X-pipe (aka crossover). For the E36, there were about 20 or so Dr. Gas crossovers built for a Conforti/Supersprint/Dr.Gas/BMP Design deal several years back ('95 M3 only). The Dr. Gas crossover only worked if you had both the Supersprint headers and muffler setup. Also, I've seen some X-pipes under Korman's race cars, but when I asked about them he was kind of secretive about where they came from. If you want to read about X-pipes/crossovers, you can go to: http://www.bassani.com/ and read about the ones available for Mustangs. Ford Motor Co. used Bassani to furnish pipes for that "most expensive Ford Mustang ever built by Ford" thing (Cobra R? was this the $70k Mustang?). Cheers, - Skip Chester Wong wrote: > > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:14:01 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces > > Just wondering how difficult it is to polish and smooth the inside of a '96+ M3 > header. Whenever you hear of car tuners, you always hear that they polished > and I would assume smooothed the insides of the header. How difficult is this > task? Also, any ideas on where to get supplies? Skip? > > Thanks, > Chester > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] crumple zones - from Adam Fila
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:09:00 -0500 From: "Adam Fila" <ylf@mindless.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] crumple zones Many people made good points on this issue, and there is one more: Types of collisions at a race track are very different than types of collisions in the real world, which necessitates different priorities when designing a safety system. Race tracks are designed to minimize collisions with objects either traveling in the opposite direction from you, or head on collisions with immovable stationary objects. At a race track, if you hit a car, chances are the car is going the same way you are going, so the challenge is not so much to dissipate the initial impact energy, but rather to deal with the secondary collision resulting from loss of control caused by the initial impact, going off road, and so on. These secondary collisions are mostly rollovers (not counting the cases where you save it in the run-off area, and perhaps gently nudge the wall somewhere), ranging from a mild flip, to violent spinning in the air and down the track. Therefore, crumple zones have a limited use, as it's hard to predict where will the hits come from in a roll (as the car bounces around, it can get hit anywhere, not just from the front or rear, where the crumple zones are) But the advantage of a roll as opposed to a head on impact is that energy is being dissipated little at a time, not all at once, so as long as the driver is strapped in and protected by the cage (and has a helmet on to protect his head FROM the cage), there isn't one massive blow that will generate large enough g's to kill him. (this is kind of the same principle as they teach in martial arts - to roll when you fall to the ground, rather then hit it straight on) On the other hand, in types of racing where a head on collision with a wall is possible, such as at Indy, cars do employ very sophisticated energy absorbing mechanisms to protect the drivers. This includes fancy carbon fiber crumple zones, engines and other parts designed to break away during the collision and carry the bulk of the impact energy with them, and so on. Even here though the assumption is that a head on collision is rare, and rather the car impacts the wall at an angle, and then slides alongside the wall, shedding parts, and dissipating energy along the way. This is different from the early days, when the GP or Indy cars were rigid tube steel frame cars, able to survive any impact largely undamaged (this was the approach at safety then) unfortunately causing frequent deaths to the drivers. You can hear the massive solid *thud* as they hit the walls in the old crash footage - and sometimes see the driver being violently thrown around, absorbing all the energy - much in contrast with current day crashes. In the real world, the bigger issue is to absorb the initial impact energy of either a head on with a car going in the opposite direction (car in the opposite lane), or an immovable stationary object (tree, house, and so on) or a side impact (at an intersection) To complicate things, you can't require passengers to wear helmets and 5 pt harnesses, and also you have to expect up to 5 passengers in a car, all of whom should be protected, not just one as in a race car. Considering these factors, different approach is taken - essentially employing the same devices (energy absorbing crumple zones, cage structures) just to a different degree and in different combinations (crumple zones are primary, to absorb the initial big hit, and roll structures secondary, in the rarer case the car flips) Ultimately, a car with modern crumple zones, and a full cage/cell around the driver would be safer even on the street, assuming there is only the driver in the car, wearing a harness and a helmet. Without a harness and a helmet, the cage becomes more deadly than beneficial, as even a minor collision can result in the head impacting the cage, most likely killing the driver. -Adam Fila '95 M3 -----Original Message----- From: e36m3@bmw-m.net [mailto:e36m3@bmw-m.net]On Behalf Of Sean Hester Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 12:53 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] crumple zones Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 09:50:24 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] crumple zones >BMW doesn't put a rear-facing third seat in the Touring models because the >rear portion of the Touring model serves as the crush zone for a rear-end >collision. i'm going to use this as a lead in to a quesiton that's been burning in my mind for a while. why are there crumple zones in passenger cars? instead of a rigid frame (roll cage) like in my race car? i assume it's one of the following. does anyone know the official answer? 1. crumple zones are actually better then roll cages. since they dissipate the energy of the crash into the crumpling metal, it's better for the occupants. a completly rigid car would transfer all that energy to the occupants. if it's this one, then how come my race car doesn't have crumple zones? 2. roll cages would cut down too much on interior space. sure... roll cages in street cars intrude. because they are added into a car that's already built. but if the cage was built into the car form the begininng, it wouldn't need to intrude all that much. 3. roll cages weigh too much. again... ones added to cars add pounds. but if were built in (a pillare were roll cage material instead of whatever they are now) it wouldn't add all that much weight would it? 4. roll cages cost too much. more then all that crumple zone research going on? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces - from Seth Thomas
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:40:31 -0500 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces I came across a place that would make an xpipe for our cars. It seems like they wanted around $200-$300 for it. I can't remember where I found it but it was on the web. They made headers and all kinds of exhaust parts for race cars. The one thing I remember about them is that they made the collectors for the Team Oreca Vipers. Does anybody know who that might be? I will look and see if I can find them again. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com www.m3power.com -----Original Message----- From: Skip Bogard [mailto:skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu] Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 11:13 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:16:06 -0500 From: Skip Bogard <skip.bogard@alumni.duke.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces The only blue printing I've had done on my exhaust is where the exhaust ports meet the gasket and then correspondingly the cast iron header (on my '95 3.0L).... ....because not accidently blocking the port with gasket material obviously deserves attention. It's more of a gasket alignment problem than a machining issue. I had my '95 header ceramic coated inside & out. Did this smooth my cast iron header? Maybe a little, but its not super smooth. If I wanted to spend more money on the exhaust, I think I'd bug someone to design a X-pipe (aka crossover). For the E36, there were about 20 or so Dr. Gas crossovers built for a Conforti/Supersprint/Dr.Gas/BMP Design deal several years back ('95 M3 only). The Dr. Gas crossover only worked if you had both the Supersprint headers and muffler setup. Also, I've seen some X-pipes under Korman's race cars, but when I asked about them he was kind of secretive about where they came from. If you want to read about X-pipes/crossovers, you can go to: http://www.bassani.com/ and read about the ones available for Mustangs. Ford Motor Co. used Bassani to furnish pipes for that "most expensive Ford Mustang ever built by Ford" thing (Cobra R? was this the $70k Mustang?). Cheers, - Skip Chester Wong wrote: > > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:14:01 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces > > Just wondering how difficult it is to polish and smooth the inside of a '96+ M3 > header. Whenever you hear of car tuners, you always hear that they polished > and I would assume smooothed the insides of the header. How difficult is this > task? Also, any ideas on where to get supplies? Skip? > > Thanks, > Chester > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t - from Jason Leung
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 22:47:11 -0600 From: Jason Leung <jleung20@flash.net> Subject: Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t Jason, >I've never heard of a real AA OBD-II setup. If they >are doing it now then it's really new. Its new. Just look at the webpage. Its been there for at least 2 months. >Now, for spreading misinformation, maybe there are >real OBD-II M3's out there and, if so then I'll admit >that I was wrong. Yup. >But as far as being wrong that's a >speeding ticket compared to the murder that AA has >committed. That's some pretty big hyperbole. That's some pretty serious accusations. I wouldn't be too happy if someone called me a murderer. >First, Spending 6k+ on a Stage 1 turbo is hardly >cheaping out. If you've spent any time dealing with forced induction on engines that are naturally aspirated to begin with, I think 6K is really really cheap. Particularly considering the high compression ratio of the M50/S50US motor, and particularly considering the thin cylinder walls of the motor. AND the small head bolt diameter. You *did* think about all this, didn't you? You *did* compare, oh, say, the "weak" construction of your motor compared to even BMWs old and robust M30 motors not to mention Toyota Supra Turbo motors (also straight-6), didn't you? > Okay so we agree that the Stage 1 is a POS. No, I said spending 6K is cheaping out. >Some of us have spent many hours doing the engineering work >that Karl should have done on this system. We've even >figured out how to fix it. And we told Karl. So does your system not perform as advertised? If I remember correctly, a few months ago, on the BigBoostGruppe, you were upset AA. Then Karl responded and explained how your kit met all advertised claims, and you replied, VERBATIM, "Okay this explains a lot. I'd like to apologize to Karl and AA. It seems clear that the data I collected is consistant with AA's performance claims. The kit does exactly what they said that will do." If I also remember correctly you got something like 280 hp and 280 lb-ft to the wheels, or around those whereabouts. That's not bad. That's more torque than a SC system will put out. I think its also pretty presumptuous of you also to think that you and Nick have "spent many hours doing the engineering work that Karl should have done on this system" >And >what did he say? "Send your car down to FL and I'll >tune it for you." BS. If you have spent any time modifying cars, you will realize that each car is different, particularly when you go to forced induction and turbos. It would behoove you to get custom tuning done on your car, unless you are trying to cheap out. Again: Cheap, Reliable, Fast. Pick any two. OR: Speed costs money, how fast do you wanna go? > If he knew how to tune it he >should have sent the right chips in the first place. >Plus half the problem is using the wrong (and not >necessarily cheaper) components. The data that we >collected suggests that this GenII kit wasn't >engineered at all. Engineering suggests doing a >calculation, making something, measuring the results >and repeat till it's done. A good turbo system should >have minimal drop across the pipes and IC. Maybe 1 >PSI is okay for a 7PSI system. Ours has 6PSI drop. Well, I've talked with Karl and he doesn't understand how you got your results. He's told me that he gets 1 PSI of drop between the outlet of the turbo and manifold pressure. I'd question your measurement techniques as a DIYer first before I'd question Karl's measurement techniques, in a close to 10,000 sq ft shop that has been servicing BMWs for 20 years. >He either never measured that or he didn't care. Not >exactly the "upgrade to supercar status" that he >adertises. How much pressure is dropped in your stage >2+ setup? A little over 1 psi from the turbo outlet to the intake manifold. > It's okay that you don't know but I'll bet >that Karl doesn't even know.. > >Are the stage 2 - ++ kits better? Well, in a way - >they lower the compression so there's more margin for >error. More margin for Karl to mask his mistakes. If >he can't make decent software for the stage 1 system >hy can he do it for the more $ ones? Does lower compression allow for a greater margin of error? Sure, but ONLY if you run the same boost. I run anywhere from two the THREE times the amount of boost you run, so my compression, lower by 1.7 points than yours, isn't exactly going to "mask mistakes" Karl makes excellent software for *my* car. I don't have pinging, I don't have detonation, I have run the car at full boost before for 30 seconds in a row (impossible to do for any longer...run out of road), and I drive in anything from -15 F to 110 F weather. My boost is rock steady. Now, I can't say about your car, I don't have your kit, and I don't have your car. But on MY car, my kit from AA works terrific! >Easy, he can't - >he just throws more $ hardware at the problem to >compensate. That's some pretty serious accusations again. >So, yea, you're really happy with your >stage 2 kit. But it was still poorly engineered. I see. How were you able to arrive at this conclusion, particularly since you don't own a stage 2+ kit? Through improper methods of BS perhaps? I've never said your stage 1 is well or poorly engineered... do you know why? Because I don't have a stage 1 kit. >Do >you know for a fact that adaption is enabled? It >probably isn't. I have news for you. It is. Why? I can tell. How? I have the ability to read my chips on my PC at home. People tell me which bits to look for. I also can burn new ones, but I digress. I'm no Karl H or Jim C. >So not only is it not street legal >but it can't adapt for spark timing either. Wrong assumptions, again. > >You paid a lot of money or that system so you figure >that it's gotta be good. And it is good. But if it >had been properly designed the price could be much >less - even with a fat profit margin. I'm not gonna >try to convince you of this because $10k+ out of your >pocket can support a lot of denial to convince you >that you spent it well. So my words are directed at >people who are thinking about buying one of their >systems. You know what Matt, my AA car provides me with a lot of power, a lot of reliability, and has never let me down. Leo Franchi, a fellow BMW enthusiast and owner of a humble BMW performance shop called Midwest Motorsport, thinks the stage 2+ kit is not badly designed also. He absolutely loves driving the car. Let's see. Leo Franchi .... ex IMSA Firehawk Series driver, sets up cars for Pat Dunbar, Dan Snyder, and other Club racers, general great guy, done a ton of Dinan SC kits, has done many e28 Dinan turbo conversions, etc etc etc.....Leo has more knowledge on designing friggin' *camshafts* than I'll ever forget....so... I'll trust Leo's feedback wwaaaaaaaaaaaaaay before I trust yours. Epsecially since Leo services my car...uh...and...you don't. And Leo will be the first to tell you if something is crap or not. And you know what? I have my car, not you. Since you don't have my car, don't know what it looks like, haven't spent hours in the engine bay poking, what qualifies you to make untrue statements about it? You can claim I'm in denial; horserubbish. My car and my turbosystem have been quite reliable and makes phenomenal power. I think its well designed, and so does my good friend, my mechanic. Perhaps yours car isn't quite as reliable or as fast as mine. That's fine. But do I "talk smack" about your setup? No. Please don't vent your frustration by bringing *me* down and making vast general assumption about *my* setup when you don't even own it! That's not very cool. Now, I propose we close this topic. I don't like to argue; its not my style. I don't want to talk about what has happened in the past either. However, If you're going to post rubbish about people I consider to be good friends (whether its Karl or Leo), I will respond to your rubbish. Jason
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Unsprung Weight - from Lew Becker
Top
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:49:07 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Unsprung Weight I don't know about the math, but: (a) the Tire Rack cited the 10:1 ratio for static:rotating weight in an article about why NOT to put big tires on a SUV (or truck) -- i.e., not a piece about why one should buy lightweight wheels; and (b) when I went from 17x8.5 M Double Spoke 2's to 18x8.5 BBS RC's (6 or so lbs lighter per wheel) the difference in the car's acceleration was very striking -- subjectively felt like very much more than a 48 (or so) lb reduction in static weight (marked difference also in the car's handling and braking, albeit not as dramatic). I also had occasion to put the factory wheels back on for a few weeks, and then put back the BBS's -- and the differences in acceleration were just as striking each time. Lew Becker ----- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 16:39:56 -0800 (PST) > From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unsprung Weight > > Sean, > If you do the math you'll see that 1 lb of weight at > the outside of the tire is worth 2lbs in sprung > weight. Not that big a deal for acceleration. Plus > all of the weight isn't at the outside of the tire so > the real ratio is less. This doesn't consider the > suspension performance WRT unsprung weight, just the > acceleration and braking. > > Now the flywheel makes a much bigger difference. > -Matt > > --- Sean Hester <seanh_race@hotmail.com> wrote: > > Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:56:06 -0800 > > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unsprung Weight > > > > >Whats the improvement reducing unsprung weight? > > > > your car has to spend lots of power (torque really) > > getting the wheels > > rotating. this is along with moving the weight of > > the car. i'm too lazy to > > do the physics for you here, but radial acceleration > > physics shows that 1 > > pound on a 17 inch wheel is a big deal. something > > like 10 pounds of > > "sprung" weight. so... 4 wheels, 5 lbs heavier > > each, is like adding 200 > > lbs to your car. UGH!!! > > > > P.S. this "radial acceleration" thing is why people > > get lightweight > > flywheels too. a couple pounds less on the flywheel > > makes for pretty > > noticable acceleration. > > > > it also effects the suspension alot. your > > suspension has to deal with > > everything hanging on it. (wheels, tires, brakes, > > etc...) the more weight > > it's trying to move up and down the slower things > > work and the worse your > > car handles. try to move your hand up and down > > really fast. now try to do > > it holding a 5 pound weight. see the difference? 5 > > pounds a wheel is > > enough to notice in the handling department. > >
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. non-pole position SO2 vs. Pilot Sport - from David Hogg
Top
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:27:19 -0800 From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> Subject: non-pole position SO2 vs. Pilot Sport Juan Carlos, I switched from S02 PP's to Pilot Sports last year (S02's wore out). The PS's are a little quieter and less squirmy when new, the S02's were slightly better in the wet, but otherwise I don't notice much difference. I hope the PS's last longer (could it have to do with ASC-light-on-power-induced-oversteer-trip-to-work driving?) No lap times to confirm, just derierre impressions. Dave Hogg 98 M3/4 with 245/40 PS on 8.5x17 Fikse FM10's all around
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] big boy clutch stop on 97 m3 - from Carey Probst
Top
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:50:14 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] big boy clutch stop on 97 m3 The real question I've been wondering about is How can I disable this 'feature' since I know how to drive? There are times I want to start or nudge the engine without being in the car. > > 'some late model cars require the clutch > > be completely depressed in order to start the engine' > > Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.