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#1. Re: [E36M3] Unsprung Weight - from Sean Hester
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:10:29 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Unsprung Weight >Sean, >If you do the math you'll see that 1 lb of weight at >the outside of the tire is worth 2lbs in sprung >weight. Not that big a deal for acceleration. Plus >all of the weight isn't at the outside of the tire so >the real ratio is less. This doesn't consider the >suspension performance WRT unsprung weight, just the >acceleration and braking. i haven't done the math myself (becuase, like i said, i'm lazy) but i've seen the 10 to 1 number quotes alot. tire rack's web site quotes it, in among other places, an article about why not to put huge tires on your underpowered SUV. almost everyone i race cars with also quotes the 10/1 figure. i just took their word for it. the one time i heard people who WERE trying to do math, (i don't remember if it was this forum) and getting different results, argueing among themselves it came down to weight distribution. the easy way to do the equations assumes the weight is distributed evenly around the disk to be accelerated. while in reality 80% or more of the weight in our case is at, or near, the outside rim. this makes a HUGE difference in the equations. (and also quadruples their size if i remember) if you did the math, i'd love to see it. while i'm too lazy to rip out my calculus book(s), i'm not too lazy to look at someone else's answers. ;-P >Now the flywheel makes a much bigger difference. how come? i would have figured a flywheel to be a pretty even weight distribution, that it made LESS difference, not more. i guess maybe it's been too long since i did the math. ;-P _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#2. Re: [E36M3] unsprung weight - from Sean Hester
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:27:22 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] unsprung weight >Now that this thread has surfaced again.. how about the weight of the >rubber? I just put the RE730's on the M.. they weighed 26 lbs each.. I >never see any talk of what the tires weigh.. what's the norm? i didn't think there was much weight difference in the tires. especially street tires. except for the obvious. (those 255s everyone puts on their cars are heavier then the tiny 235s i use) race tires DO have weight differences. hoosiers are light as a feather, i can pick up a 17inch one with one finger. g-force tires, on the other hand, are bricks. i can barely lift one without huritng my back. but of course, hoosiers are fragile, and g-forces can drive over nails and not have problems. ;-P _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#3. Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:40:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t on 1/12/01 Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> wrote: > Jason, > Let's just agree to disagree. > -Matt <200+ worthless quoted lines snipped here> And while you're at it, why don't you also agree NEVER again to make a post quoting over 200 lines of useless stuff we've already seen. Neil 96 M3
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:45:49 -0600 From: "Andy Korczynski" <andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t Enough already! Take it off the list. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 11:43 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:40:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t on 1/12/01 Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> wrote: > Jason, > Let's just agree to disagree. > -Matt <200+ worthless quoted lines snipped here> And while you're at it, why don't you also agree NEVER again to make a post quoting over 200 lines of useless stuff we've already seen. Neil 96 M3 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#5. Pilot Sport mileage - from Chris Casey
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:50:51 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Casey <ccasey1@yahoo.com> Subject: Pilot Sport mileage Dave, I'm just coming the end of my Pilot Sports and I got about 25-26k miles on them. One CCA CCC, no HPDS, no autox, many "ASC-light-on-power-induced-oversteer-trip-to-work" drives. -Chris 99 M3/2 stock > Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:27:19 -0800 > From: "David Hogg" <springwood@blazenet.net> > Subject: non-pole position SO2 vs. Pilot Sport > > Juan Carlos, > I switched from S02 PP's to Pilot Sports last year > (S02's wore out). The > PS's are a little quieter and less squirmy when new, > the S02's were slightly > better in the wet, but otherwise I don't notice much > difference. I hope the > PS's last longer (could it have to do with > ASC-light-on-power-induced-oversteer-trip-to-work > driving?) No lap times to > confirm, just derierre impressions. > > Dave Hogg > 98 M3/4 with 245/40 PS on 8.5x17 Fikse FM10's all > around > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online! http://photos.yahoo.com/
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#6. Stero Specialist Needed.... - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:08:49 -0800 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: Stero Specialist Needed.... Hello all, My alpine head unit stopped sending a good volume signal to the amplifier. I placed the stock unit back in for now and everything works ok. The audio store sent my alpine cd unit back for repairs, stating that the amp (in the head unit) went bad. Here is my problem. The install they did originally had the high outputs from the radio go straight to the amp. Is this correct. I thought that only lows (RCA connections) should go to the amp. By the way I am using the factory amp. I am recieving my alpine head unit back this weekend and I am debating installing it myself, and correctly. What would be the correct procedure to install an aftermarket head unit on an otherwise stock 95 M3. Thanks in advance... ben 95 m3 -Cd player
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t - from NickG
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:22:30 -0800 From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t Oh come on people....useless stuff? I wish I could have paid for dialogue like that a year ago, and now you want it off the list?? There aren't that many people with turbocharged M3's, and hearing both good and bad sides of an owner's experience is invaluable. It would have saved me a lot of time and money a year ago if I had that info available to me. Just because it's old news and uninteresting to you, doesn't mean that somebody else doesn't find it useful. Nick '95 M3 turbo > Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:40:46 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t > > on 1/12/01 Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> wrote: > > > Jason, > > Let's just agree to disagree. > > -Matt > > <200+ worthless quoted lines snipped here> > > And while you're at it, why don't you also agree NEVER again to make a post > quoting over 200 lines of useless stuff we've already seen. > > Neil > 96 M3
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... - from Sean Hester
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:44:11 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... >Hello all, > >My alpine head unit stopped sending a good volume signal to the amplifier. >I >placed the stock unit back in for now and everything works ok. The audio >store sent my alpine cd unit back for repairs, stating that the amp (in the >head unit) went bad. > >Here is my problem. The install they did originally had the high outputs >from the radio go straight to the amp. Is this correct. I thought that >only >lows (RCA connections) should go to the amp. By the way I am using the >factory amp. I am recieving my alpine head unit back this weekend and I am >debating installing it myself, and correctly. What would be the correct >procedure to install an aftermarket head unit on an otherwise stock 95 M3. wow. god only knows. amps can accept any input signal they're designed for. all aftermarket car stereo stuff is designed for the same input signal. (the output signal that all aftermarket heads produce). all home gear has a different spec. all PC gear has a different spec. etc... sadily (and horribly) each and every single stock stereo car system has a different spec. and the more complicated the car, the less likely it's gonna be anywhere near a standard. there's NO reason to assume that the bmw amps accept either the standard "high level" signal from aftermarket heads or the standard "low level" signal. in fact if they did, (exactly) i'd eat the computer i'm typing on. even if, by some act of god, the bmw amps did expect the right voltage from an aftermarket head, it would undoubtedly have a different input impedance. the people who intalled your head probably tried both. just see which was "closer" to right. and chose the high level signal. if it sounded ok, they probably close right. BUT! the fact that the amps in the head unit died probably means that the input impedance of the bmw amps was too low for the head, thereby drawing more current then the head wanted to give it, thereby killing the poor amps in your head unit. i'll bet you that if you hook it up that way again, the amps int he head unit are ginna die again. ;-( try the low level outputs. it may work, it may not. who knows? it's less likely to hurt your head unit though. it's gonna be alot lower signal though. meaning you're gonna have to turn up the volume alot (which is bad too) you'll get more noise, and you'll be runinng everything hotter. there's really no way to solve the problem, except to not use any of the bme electronics at all. they're junk anyway. if you bought the cheapest $50 amp you could find it would sound better then the bmw amps. of course it's more comlicated then that because then you'd need crossovers for the stock speakers. you could replace those too, but they're pretty descent speakers. if you buy cheap $50 speakers thing are gonna sound worse. it really comes down to this. with the e36 M3 you have two choices: 1. replace every single thing. 2. replace nothing. anything else is a gamble, a nightmere of electronics design, and not gonna be worth the effort (sound quality wise) why DID you replace just the hean unit anyway? to get an in dash cd player? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 15:12:27 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: AA Turbos - Was 99t on 1/12/01 16:22, NickG at nikog@mediaone.net wrote: > Oh come on people....useless stuff? I wish I could have paid for dialogue > like that a year ago, and now you want it off the list?? Nick, Maybe you should see somebody about that memory problem <g> Everything Matt quoted in his most recent post - all 213 rewrapped lines - is is stuff we've seen from those two just in the last couple of days. It wasn't all useless the first time around, but after that... Neil 96 M3
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#10. Re: bentley manual and stock Alar - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:23:29 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar Wow, it's amazing what you can learn when you actually look closely at things. I've never noticed that little red LED in front of the gear shift! After plugging it back in, I saw it blink a 3 times. It never blinked before, so I tried the arm button and it beeped 3 times. Checked the hood switch, held it down, pressed the arm button and PRESTO! Doors locked!! Bent the microswitch tab and unscrewed the plastic contact point on the hood a bit. Panic button works, so I guess the alarm is functioning once again. Thanks everyone for there help and patience with me. I promise more interesting gearhead questions next time! Jonathan Evans 95M3 Raleigh, NC >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: jonathanevans@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar >Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 17:28:19 > >>From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> >>To: rbuchals@hotmail.com >>Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar >>Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 15:17:56 >> >>My clicker only has 2 buttons, UNLOCK/DISARM and LOCK/ARM PANIC. part >>number is 82 11 1 469 448. It also has a little tiny reset button which I >>am scared to press, as I have no idea what it could reset. Codes? > >Well, I have a different alarm system, so I won't be able to provide you >with any real-world experience. Sorry. > >Have you tried pressing the LOCK/ARM/PANIC button twice? Once to lock >doors, twice to activate alarm? Also, if you press and hold the >LOCK/ARM/PANIC button for several seconds, I would guess that it should >activate the siren. > >I'm not sure what the reset button is for, but maybe it's used to re-sync >the alarm module and the remote. You may have one of those systems that >uses code-hopping, so the remote uses a different code each time it's used. > >> >>I think I've tried all possible button pressing algorithms. Heck, I'm not >>even sure I have an LED anywhere on the car for the alarm. The only one I >>see is for the tape deck and that one blinks when the key isn't in the >>ignition. > >Normally, the LED is located right below the opening for the sunglass >holder, and in front of the shifter. There is a row of five rectangular >holes, and switches are installed there. Seat heaters, radio fader, ASC >button, etc. The LED is normally inserted here. > >> >>And people have mentioned that the capped off wire is the antenna. That >>makes sense. > >Yes, a short wire with a plastic nub stuck on the end of it. Be sure that >when you reinstall the alarm module, you don't have the antenna wire >tangled in with the wire harness, or bent up. It needs to be relatively >straight, and unobstructed by the wire harness, in order to maximize it's >ability to pick up a signal. > >You may be able to get a replacement copy of the owner's manual from your >friendly neighborhood stealer. > >-rb > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#11. Re: bentley manual and stock Alar - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 20:24:29 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar Wow, it's amazing what you can learn when you actually look closely at things. I've never noticed that little red LED in front of the gear shift! After plugging it back in, I saw it blink a 3 times. It never blinked before, so I tried the arm button and it beeped 3 times. Checked the hood switch, held it down, pressed the arm button and PRESTO! Doors locked!! Bent the microswitch tab and unscrewed the plastic contact point on the hood a bit. Panic button works, so I guess the alarm is functioning once again. Thanks everyone for there help and patience with me. I promise more interesting gearhead questions next time! Jonathan Evans 95M3 Raleigh, NC >From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >To: jonathanevans@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar >Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 17:28:19 > >>From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> >>To: rbuchals@hotmail.com >>Subject: Re: bentley manual and stock Alar >>Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 15:17:56 >> >>My clicker only has 2 buttons, UNLOCK/DISARM and LOCK/ARM PANIC. part >>number is 82 11 1 469 448. It also has a little tiny reset button which I >>am scared to press, as I have no idea what it could reset. Codes? > >Well, I have a different alarm system, so I won't be able to provide you >with any real-world experience. Sorry. > >Have you tried pressing the LOCK/ARM/PANIC button twice? Once to lock >doors, twice to activate alarm? Also, if you press and hold the >LOCK/ARM/PANIC button for several seconds, I would guess that it should >activate the siren. > >I'm not sure what the reset button is for, but maybe it's used to re-sync >the alarm module and the remote. You may have one of those systems that >uses code-hopping, so the remote uses a different code each time it's used. > >> >>I think I've tried all possible button pressing algorithms. Heck, I'm not >>even sure I have an LED anywhere on the car for the alarm. The only one I >>see is for the tape deck and that one blinks when the key isn't in the >>ignition. > >Normally, the LED is located right below the opening for the sunglass >holder, and in front of the shifter. There is a row of five rectangular >holes, and switches are installed there. Seat heaters, radio fader, ASC >button, etc. The LED is normally inserted here. > >> >>And people have mentioned that the capped off wire is the antenna. That >>makes sense. > >Yes, a short wire with a plastic nub stuck on the end of it. Be sure that >when you reinstall the alarm module, you don't have the antenna wire >tangled in with the wire harness, or bent up. It needs to be relatively >straight, and unobstructed by the wire harness, in order to maximize it's >ability to pick up a signal. > >You may be able to get a replacement copy of the owner's manual from your >friendly neighborhood stealer. > >-rb > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#12. A few data points for intake/exhaust system design - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:20:01 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: A few data points for intake/exhaust system design Here's a recap of some data points re- intake and exhaust system design. It's a response I had mailed to Rich, and he suggested it should be sent to the gang, so, here it is for those of us interested in the technical aspects of why our bimmers are faaaaaasssst! It's a bit involved... Here it is... M. -----Original Message----- From: Mount, Mike Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:15 AM To: 'Dorffer, Rich' Subject: RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Okay, I'll give ya a break! If memory serves (I read the book ~ '83) the crossover works by allowing a low pressure area to develop by the exhaust port. Pressure (or shock) waves are created as the charge is expelled from the exhaust and flows out the pipe. At specific rpm's, the timing of these shock waves help the charge exit the exhaust, and at other rpm settings the shock waves inhibit flow. This is one reason why 2-stroke motors are so 'peaky' and why various designs have risen to change the shape of the exhaust ports; to broaden the peak and reduce to 'all or nothing' effect of coming on the pipe. You no doubt have heard the term 'exhaust scavenger' to mean that the outgoing exhaust flow has a momentum that can be used to 'pull' the charge through the head. That doesn't quite work, it's more timing of pressure waves. Exhaust pipes are unique in that the charge pressure waves (length of pipe to rpm setting) are only measured from the exhaust valve to the collector. These principles are why intake length is tuned to a specific rpm setting; the intake length is from the back side of the intake valve to the inlet of the intake or horn. It's a fairly involved equation, but when I ran it on my Kawasaki bike (race pipes, cam, valves, intake, etc), it returned fairly accurate rpm settings for the cam profile I had installed. I bet our friend Jim C knows all about that, and it's probably why the length of his intake + filter is similar to the length of a stock M3 intake + stock airbox. As I had mentioned before, the book is a great read for insomniacs, Mike ps, not bad for a finance guy! -----Original Message----- From: Dorffer, Rich [mailto:RDORFFER@CleIndians.com] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 8:03 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:56:31 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Mike (and all), I remember reading once that the technology works as it reduces back pressure by allowing the exhaust gas pressure to equalize between the -----Original Message----- From: Mount, Mike [mailto:JMMn@pge.com] Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:48 AM To: 'Dorffer, Rich'; 'e36m3@bmw-m.net' Subject: RE: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Rich (and all), interesting thing here, this idea first appeared on british bikes in the'50's IIRC. At the time, no one could quite explain why it worked. Oddly enough, the 'fishtail' appearing tailpipes (seen on '60's era choppers) added horsepower compared to conventional designs, but we haven't seen that design in the catalogues in some time... There's a book called 'Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems' that describes in detail some of the principles behind intake and exhaust header length, intake pulse timing, etc. If I remember, it gives some idea about tuning intake length, headers and placement of crossover pipes for specific rpm tuning. It's a great read for insomniacs. Mike '95 M3 drive it like you just stole it <snip> From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Smoothing/Polishing inside header surfaces Skip talking about X-pipes and Crossovers..... I have a crossover header on my Suzuki GSXR 750. ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************