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#1. Re: [E36M3] Another Stereo Question (Long) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 08:02:01 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Stereo Question (Long) Mosey on over to http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/stereo for the wiring diagram of most E36s (not sure which car you have). You can then splice to the signal before the amp by picking up the following pins from the high density (the one with small gauge wire going in) connector: pin 1, pin2 (brown orange[-],blue black[+]): right rear signal pin 3, pin4 (yellow black[+],brown orange[-]): left rear signal pin 14, pin 15 (brown orange[-],blue red[+]): right front signal pin 16, pin 17 (yellow red[+],brown orange[-]): left front signal Those would be your best bet since you'll be getting the most pure (*chuckle*) signal from the head unit without the amp mucking things up. That is if your amp has adjustable line levels, etc, etc. Otherwise, you'd probably want to pick up your signal from one of the rear speaker outputs which are front connector with heavier gauge wire coming out of it--pins 5 - 8. HTH, Chester --- Andrew Burback <andrewb200@yahoo.com> wrote: > Ok, who has connected a sub amp to their stock stereo? > The one thing that has me stumped is how I get the > signal from the head unit to the sub amp? I was > thinking a speaker level --> RCA adapter, but what > speaker wires do I splice? The rear woofers? This is > a single channel amp (Xtant 121m) so I would only be > splicing into one rear channel which is kinda wierd. > I know that I should just replace all the stock stuff, > and it might be easier, but all I wanna do is add a > little more bass. > > I very intersted in hearing peoples solutions and/or > suggestions on how to do this. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] FS: Stuff! - from Jim Wilcox
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 12:43:25 -0600 From: "Jim Wilcox" <JimShadow1@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS: Stuff! Gang, Both items are sold! JIM ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> To: "Jim Wilcox" <JimShadow1@home.com> Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 9:15 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS: Stuff! > > > Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 16:09:19 -0600 > > From: "Jim Wilcox" <JimShadow1@home.com> > > Subject: FS: Stuff! > > > > > > Gang, > > =20 > > Clearing out the garage as the ///M3 is on the way out. =20 > > I have FS the following: > > =20 > > 1-RS adjustable clutch stop. Nearly new. How does $20 sound??? > > =20 > > 1- X brace (used) with hardware (Not the inserts, bolts only.) $85.00 = > > > > =20 > > I'll ship anywhere as long as you pay the actual charges. =20 > > =20 > > JIM > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > >
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#3. Winter Garage Sale - from F. Graziano
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 18:38:03 -0800 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: Winter Garage Sale ok ok, you all know the deal so here's the goodies. Items located in NJ, shipping paid by buyer, pickup is ok too. =20 * (1) Stock 1995 M3 Black Leather Shift Knob * (2)Orange 1995 M3/2 Side Markers=20 * (2)Red/Orange 1995 M3/2 Rear Clusters * (2)Orange 1995 M3/2 Front Blinkers * (4)Stock 1995 M3/2 Springs w/ 38k miles (No Sag) * (1)Haynes E36 Repair Manual (Almost New) * (1)Stock 17x7.5 BMW Motorsport Split 10 spoke Rim (1 Pothole Dent = est. $40 repair) * (1)Rockford Fosgate Punch 60ix Amp (Might Work, Might Not let's make = a deal! ) * (4)"Custom" All weather floormats(really nice black rubber with grooves, I cut the driver side one for a nice fit. * (2)BMW 1993-1995 Owners Manuals, I have a couple so if you need one ask. * (1)BMW ///M3 rear deck badge (for all the rice boyz on the list hehe) =20 I'm just looking to get rid of this stuff so any reasonable offer will definately be taken. First Come First Serve. Thank You Much, Frank =20 =20
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Negative camber: Possible to have too much? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 17:02:04 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Negative camber: Possible to have too much? Rob, It is certainly possible to have too much camber. But even with stiff springs/bars, 3 deg might not be too much. With modern race tires like Kumho's, they will still like some neg camber even at max g's to compensate for sidewill bending. Other tires will be different. That's why CART and F1 cars still have lots of camber, but not lots of roll. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 12:02 PM Subject: [E36M3] Negative camber: Possible to have too much? > Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 13:04:29 -0700 > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> stuff deleted > So, even > with really stiff suspension (coil-overs & big bars) do you still want as > much neg. camber as possible or is -3deg. too much? Probably not but I have > to ask :-) > > Rob > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#5. Let's talk valves - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 20:24:54 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Let's talk valves And now for something completely different.. The valve train - cam, timing, etc of our M3's was designed and optimized for NA operation. I'm thinking that use with a turbo is probably not optimal. Turbo engines like minimal valve overlap. How does one go about reducing the overlap? It is as simple as re-timing the cam to retard the intake? I guess this is pretty much what VaNoS does when it's turned off. Is there any benefit to changing the timing further? What about re-grinding one or both of the cams? The other thing I wanted to talk about is stronger valve springs/retainers and solid lifters. I'm thinking that we should be able to raise the redline to 7500+ with some hardware. This would be particularly appealing to those of us running stock compression. Any sources for this stuff? Anyone know what the max RPM for the bottom end is? I'm not convinced that increasing the torque and manifold pressure is the best way to get better performance out of our engines. Those who are running 400+ ft-lbs of torque are starting to break things. Plus this requires a significant decrease in CR, which hurts bottom end and fuel economy. When I look at my dyno charts I think it should be possible to get >400 HP out of this engine without increasing the peak torque or significantly killing the bottom end. The TD06/17C turbo is rated to 550CFM (380HP) and a small upgrade to a 19C with a 10 or 12CM turbine housing would take it to maybe 420HP. I'm thinking that if I can open up the IC and pipes and raise the rev limit then this can be done. The real beauty here is that you really break stuff with peak torque, not strictly horsepower. That's why Honda can put together a really lightweight drivetrain for the S2000 and such - there's very little torque and the tranny doesn't care that it's getting spun at 9000RPM. Anyway, what do you guys think? -Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Negative camber: (Lowell) - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 20:43:02 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Negative camber: (Lowell) At 02:15 PM 1/14/01 -0800, Daniel talked about: >Jim, > >What about rear negative camber?...are you at factory >specs or did you increase it also? >What i the toe setting you have in the front with -2.5 >degrees of negative camber? Hi Daniel (and Gruppe), I originally had the rear set to the factory camber settings, but the alignment shop suggested increasing the rear camber to help match the front. So here are my setting: Camber Caster Toe LF -2.3 7.1 0.07 RF -2.9 7.1 0.07 LR -1.7 --- 0.08 RR -1.7 --- 0.08 (all measurements are degrees) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#7. e36 stereo wiring - from Dale Beuning
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Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 21:56:25 -0800 (PST) From: Dale Beuning <dalus@eskimo.com> Subject: e36 stereo wiring For a pin-outs diagram for the amp, so you can find the signal from the head unit, check this out http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/stereo/ I would just tap into the 4 wires from the radio and use the stereo to mono converter as Sean suggested. Dale > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 00:44:02 -0800 (PST) > From: Andrew Burback <andrewb200@yahoo.com> > Subject: Another Stereo Question (Long) > > Ok, who has connected a sub amp to their stock stereo? > The one thing that has me stumped is how I get the > signal from the head unit to the sub amp? I was > thinking a speaker level --> RCA adapter, but what > speaker wires do I splice? The rear woofers? This is > a single channel amp (Xtant 121m) so I would only be > splicing into one rear channel which is kinda wierd. > I know that I should just replace all the stock stuff, > and it might be easier, but all I wanna do is add a > little more bass. > > I very intersted in hearing peoples solutions and/or > suggestions on how to do this. > > Thanks, > -Andrew -- ----------------------------------- | Dale Beuning | | email: dale@unofficialbmw.com | | web: http://www.unofficialbmw.com | -----------------------------------
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Another Stereo Question (Long) - from Paul Agustin
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:53:38 -0600 From: Paul Agustin <agustin@iaxs.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Another Stereo Question (Long) As far as the balance of bass goes left right really doesn't matter as the bass notes are omnidirectional. What truly matters is the mid-bass where the bass note originates so to speak. This will depend somewhat, of course, on what frequency you cut the subs off at. Now as to wiring, you may combine the left and right signal by taking the left positive and the right negative speaker lines and converting them to the magic RCA converting box then to your amp. Not a major undertaking at all. Paul Agustin
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#9. Extended Warranty - from ENF
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:19:51 -0500 From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Extended Warranty I am in need of purchasing an extended warranty, mine is up Feb. 6 2001. While I was I was working on one with my local dealer they told me to hold off till January. When I went back, the deal we were working on is no longer offered and the company that offered it won't Grandfather me in, their new plan is less time and more money. So, I am shopping around. Has anyone purchased a extended warranty (after having the car for awhile)? Any recommendations on companies (phone numbers). Has anyone NOT gone this route and hasn't had to pay a fortune for things that went wrong. I am well aware it is a dice roll if I don't do something I was hopeing to draw on the experience of this list to make the right decision. Thanks in advance, Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 15:31:50 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... Sean writes: > >Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:44:11 -0800 >From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... > > <snip> > >BUT! the fact that the amps in the head unit died probably means that the >input impedance of the bmw amps was too low for the head, thereby drawing >more current then the head wanted to give it, thereby killing the poor amps >in your head unit. i'll bet you that if you hook it up that way again, the >amps int he head unit are ginna die again. ;-( Sean, the speaker level outputs from a head unit are expecting to see a low impedance. After all, they connect directly to speakers, which are normally four ohms. So, connecting them to low impedance amplifier inputs wouldn't cause a problem. However, amplifiers normally have high impedance inputs. This limits the amount of current that is needed to drive the amp, and wouldn't put a big demand on the head unit. I believe that high impedance amplifier inputs provide better immunity to noise. For the record, I have an Alpine CD head unit with speaker outputs connected (via a wire harness adapter) to the stock amp. It works fine, sounds great, and I haven't had any problems. I purchased the wire harness adapter from a stereo shop (it's the same type of adapter that Crutchfield, Circuit City, etc sell), and this is how the shop would connect the head unit to the factory amp. -rb _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com