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#1. Torque & Horsepower - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 11:28:18 -0500 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Torque & Horsepower When I look at my dyno charts I think it should be possible to get >400 HP out of this engine without increasing the peak torque or significantly killing the bottom end. The TD06/17C turbo is rated to 550CFM (380HP) and a small upgrade to a 19C with a 10 or 12CM turbine housing would take it to maybe 420HP. I'm thinking that if I can open up the IC and pipes and raise the rev limit then this can be done. The real beauty here is that you really break stuff with peak torque, not strictly horsepower. That's why Honda can put together a really lightweight drivetrain for the S2000 and such - there's very little torque and the tranny doesn't care that it's getting spun at 9000RPM =============================================== Engines make torque....it is instantaneous and is controlled by a dynamometer's power absorption units. Some dynos do a better job than others but I won't get into that here. Horsepower is a calculation of torque values as a function of rpm. You will get higher horsepower through fine tuning as you increase rpm....look at the E46 M3's higher numbers (vs the Euro E36 M3) or the Ferrari 360 Modena with almost 400hp at a measly 275 ft lbs of maximum torque. For street driving, cars with big torque numbers give you that kick in the ass feel when you mash the throttle. Give me a car like the AMG E55 with 390 ft lbs of torque at 3000rpm as a daily driver (the auto trans is much easier when you're sitting in NY city traffic) and the new M3 for the track. I'll still have change left over by not buying the Ferrari. SD ================================== Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage - Tel 201-262-0412 *****Note- new email address is ultgar@earthlink.net *****
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#2. Re: Turbos and Valves - from Paul England
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 11:23:39 -0500 From: "Paul England" <ettsn@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Turbos and Valves I wouldn't bother with the 19C. Try a TD06H-20G instead. No more lag, as it has the same turbine, just a slightly different compressor map. It will give you a fatter boost midsection and more top-end potential. Try getting one ported and polished. Extra swoopy. Also, sell your turbocharger and buy a new 20G. Swapping the compressor is something best left to the pros, because even .001 of runout gets pretty wobbly at 80k rpm. You could send your turbo off to get swapped and balanced at a place like Texas Rebuild, but then you'll be out of a turbo for a week or two, and you won't save a whole helluva lot of money in the process. -Paul > From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> > Subject: Let's talk valves > > And now for something completely different.. > When I look at my dyno charts I think it should be > possible to get >400 HP out of this engine without > increasing the peak torque or significantly killing > the bottom end. The TD06/17C turbo is rated to 550CFM > (380HP) and a small upgrade to a 19C with a 10 or 12CM > turbine housing would take it to maybe 420HP. I'm
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#3. Re: Extended Warranty - from Joseph Lerner
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 11:45:19 -0500 From: "Joseph Lerner" <jlaj@msn.com> Subject: Re: Extended Warranty I took a gamble and purchased an extended warranty from warrantygold.com. I'm planning on keeping the car for another year and their warranty is transferable(selling point). I have not had any repairs other than the normal quirks but figure 2-3 repairs could pay for the coverage. 97 M3/4 5 speed, Bls'sd, sharked. > Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 10:19:51 -0500 > From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> > Subject: Extended Warranty > > I am in need of purchasing an extended warranty, mine is up Feb. 6 2001. > While I was I was working on one with my local dealer they told me to hold > off till January. > When I went back, the deal we were working on is no longer offered and the > company that offered it won't Grandfather me in, their new plan is less time > and more money. > > So, I am shopping around. Has anyone purchased a extended warranty (after > having the car for awhile)? > Any recommendations on companies (phone numbers). > > Has anyone NOT gone this route and hasn't had to pay a fortune for things > that went wrong. > > > I am well aware it is a dice roll if I don't do something I was hopeing to > draw on the experience of this list to make the right decision. > > Thanks in advance, > > Ed Frank > 97 M3/4 >
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:55:51 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... Hi Chester, Things are going well. I just wish that winter would be over so I can drive my M3. They spread salt and cinders around here like we're expecting ten feet of snow, so the roads have that crud all over them, and it sandblasts the front of a car very quickly. :-( Regarding the harness adapter, it was something that I bought from the stereo shop (where I originally purchased my Alpine head unit in 1996), and it connects directly to the wire harness in the car. So, the adapter splices onto the wires from the aftermarket radio. Once this was done, I unhooked the big connector from the back of the factory radio and plugged it into the connector on the harness adapter, and my aftermarket radio was wired in! I also needed an antenna wire adapter, since the factory antenna wire didn't have the same connector as the aftermarket radio (which had the typical American-style connector). The stereo shop also had this adapter. So, in pictures, I went from this: ------ | | -- Factory |Stock || |---------// | BMW | -- Harness |Radio | | | Antenna | |<------------// ------ Wire To this: ------ | |Alpine Splices Adapter -- -- Factory | New |-----------< -- >--------------| || |---------// |Alpine|Harness Harness -- -- Harness | Head | | Unit | Antenna Antenna | |<----------<----------// ------ Adapter Wire It's REALLY cool! I was afraid to mess with the stereo because I figured that I had to alter wiring behind the dash, but I didn't need to change anything. Plus, the adapter comes with a color-coding table to make splicing to the Alpine (aftermarket) harness easier. Most of the solid colors were the same, but the speaker wire color-coding was a little different. I soldered the splices because I wanted something that would last. The only "difficulty" that I ran into was that the adapter adds a bit of extra wire, so it took a little extra work to tuck all of that wire back into the dash. I believe that the two adapters (wire harness and antenna wire) cost less than $30. Hope this helps. -rb >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >To: Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... >Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 08:02:54 -0800 (PST) > <snip> > >Hi Ron. How's everything? I was wondering about your wire harness >adapter. Was it something you bought or made? Did you have to cut off the >factory connector? > >Thanks, >CHester _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 09:33:46 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Stero Specialist Needed.... >Sean, the speaker level outputs from a head unit are expecting to see a low >impedance. After all, they connect directly to speakers, which are >normally four ohms. So, connecting them to low impedance amplifier inputs >wouldn't cause a problem. > >However, amplifiers normally have high impedance inputs. This limits the >amount of current that is needed to drive the amp, and wouldn't put a big >demand on the head unit. I believe that high impedance amplifier inputs >provide better immunity to noise. i'd agree with you normally. but i've seem such whacky stuff from car audio systems, that i never trust anything anymore. for instance... my 1989 maxima... that year there were two levels of stereo. the regular 30 watt system. and the ultra cool 100 watt system. both were bose. bose used 0.5 ohm speakers. yes that's right. 1/2 ohm speakers. (so many people fried aftermarket amps hooking them up to those speakers it's funny, but that's a different story) in the base system the head unit (with 30 watts on board) drove the speakers. so the head unit was expecting to see 1/2 ohm resistance. in the "ultra cool" system they just added an amp. but they didn't want to spend money on a different head, so they recycled it. so the amps provided a 1/2 ohm input resistance to the head to make the head happy. (so many people fried head units hooking them up to that amp it's funny. and that's the story we're talking about) so... since then... i trust nothing... i have no idea how the bmw system works. i removed it all, out of fear. but i would NOT be surprisised if someone told me it worked that way. (hooking up the skeaper outs of a "regular" head unit to the stock amps, would kill the head unit's amps) of course i'm NOT surpsisedthat you tell me it works fine too. ANYTHING can happen with stock sterso systems. ;-) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. E36 Body/suspension reinforcement for track use. - from Legerlotz, Alan
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 13:55:05 -0500 From: "Legerlotz, Alan" <alegerlotz@kronos.com> Subject: E36 Body/suspension reinforcement for track use. Next month I'm having a cage put into my car in preparation for club racing next season. One of the things that I'd like the shop to do when installing the cage is to weld up the rear suspension points that are susceptible to failing under various conditions we've all read about. I need to gather more information about what points these are, exactly, and more importantly how to access these points for welding/reinforcement. Once area that I know which can be problematic is the front mount for the rear trailing arms. I assume that in order to weld this area, it must be accessed from above. Also, what are the other rear suspension points that require special attention? Please reply with any applicable information. A private e-mail is fine if you don't want to start a thread on the mailing list. Thanks! -Al 1996 328is (soon to be J-Stock!)
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#7. PC Thread - from Jzy308@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:48:29 EST From: Jzy308@aol.com Subject: PC Thread I know the "rice burner" thread was laid to rest as not pc some time ago but I must share what I saw this am. In a large mall parking lot, a tarted out Honda, w/skunkworks labels, two tone wipers, aqua brake (rear) drums, etc. On the rear valance, above the cutout for the oil can exhaust, in metallic aqua script: Burnt Rice. I guess you can call 'em as you see 'em. Carl Sewell
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Acceleration of Wheels (was Unsprung Weight) - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 14:51:27 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Acceleration of Wheels (was Unsprung Weight) >Here is a trick question for the List. If a car is moving down the highway >at 60 mph, how fast is the top and bottom of the tires moving? Answer? >Give >up? Since the bottom of the tire is in contact with the ground and the >ground is not moving, then the bottom of the tire is going zero mph!! >Yeah. >There are always 4 points on your car that are stationary no matter how >fast >you go. > >And the tops of the tires? They are traveling exactly 2X as fast as the >car >or 120 mph in this example. bah! that's the answer for the vectorally (and general relativeistically) challenged! ;-) unless you're allowing for deformation of the tire (which happens but not very much) the parts of the tire do not speed up and slow down. they're all part of one object. all parts on the outside edge of that object are moving the same speed. it's kinda the definition of "being all one object". the difference is what direction that speed is in. let's call "right" the +X direction. the "speed" (more appropriately stated as "velocity in the X direction, as viewed by a person outside the car") of the bottom of the tire may be zero. but that's not what's happenning. the little part of the tire at the bottom has a velocity of -60mph. (it's moving 60mph but backwards to the motion of the car) it just so happens to be attached to a car with a velocity of +60mph. therefore it's "net velocity, in the X direction, form a reference point outside the car is 0mph. -60 + 60 = 0 (for the top it 60 + 60 for a net of 120) that little piece of tire is NOT speeding up and slowing down. it's just constantly changing direction. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. 2001 M3 Production - from Osbcso@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 18:44:09 EST From: Osbcso@aol.com Subject: 2001 M3 Production I am one of those patient souls who have put a deposit down on a 2001 E46 M3 coupe. Production on the car was to begin last fall, then it was moved to December, and now I hear it is being moved to March. I have heard a number of unofficial stories...including the story on an engine problem in stress testing. Anyone out there know of an official reason and when production is supposed to start??? Thanks....Chris Osborne BMWCCA #92573
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Negative camber: Possible to have too much? - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:10:31 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Negative camber: Possible to have too much? > My car will be going in for some new bushings, upper mounts and an >alignment and I'm starting to wonder about alignment settings. Is it >possible to have too much neg. camber in terms of contact patch? The way I >see it, we all run so much neg. camber because when the car rolls into a >turn we want the tire to be as close to 'flat' on the ground as possible. >If >you are running stock ///M suspension you will need tons of camber to >compensate for all the body roll, but if you were to remove the springs and >weld the shock (yeah I know....just for example!) then the car wouldn't >really roll at all and the -3deg. of static camber you set into the >suspension wouldn't allow all the tire on to the ground. Right? So, even >with really stiff suspension (coil-overs & big bars) do you still want as >much neg. camber as possible or is -3deg. too much? Probably not but I >have >to ask :-) > >Rob yes, you can have too much. your example is a little off though. becuase a MAJOR part of what's going on is that the tire deforms. your example seems to assume that the tires are solid steel. when, in fact, they are closer to melted butter. (they really deform alot) how do you tell how much camber is "right"? tire temperatures. you race the car a bit and take temperature readings of the inside, middle, and outside of the tire. if they are all about the same you're camber is "neutral". (i hesitate to say "right" because some people don't like neutral, they like the wheel cocked to one side or the other) if the inside is hotter you have too much negative, if the outside it hotter you have not enough negative. you can tell inflation "correctness" this way as well. if the inside is hotter you have too much air. if the inside is cooler you have not enough. another (way les accurate) way to tell is by tire wear. if the insides wear faster, you have too much negative. if the outsides wear faster you have not enough negative. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com