E36M3 #865

Saturday, January 20, 2001 11:10:35

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. rear shock mounts - from Kit Wetzler
#2. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from reed nicholson
#3. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Kit Wetzler
#4. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Josh
#5. RE: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Tom Tice
#6. Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) - from Neil Maller
#7. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Sean Hester
#8. Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) - from Neil Maller
#9. Help - Winter Tires - NY - from Carey Probst
#10. FW: Snows for your cage, thoughts of a cage nut (reply for Carey) - from Dave Spragg

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#1. rear shock mounts - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:21:23 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: rear shock mounts > The JTD RSMs I've used up until now are beginning to develop some play. > Oddly enough the ones we put on a friend's car just afterwards are > completely shot. They crash and bang horribly. The GCs seem like a better > design. Hm. My Ground Controls are starting to make some noise, although only one side. I can't figure out what it is. I might try putting the convex washer on upside down, to see if it's contacting the Al base. Any ideas? I have both bushings in the stiff position, but the soft position did the same thing. -kit

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#2. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from reed nicholson
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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 00:50:04 From: "reed nicholson" <reedthis48@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts > > The JTD RSMs I've used up until now are beginning to develop some play. > > Oddly enough the ones we put on a friend's car just afterwards are > > completely shot. They crash and bang horribly. The GCs seem like a >better > > design. > >Hm. My Ground Controls are starting to make some noise I have the JTD RSMs, too, and the right side is banging on sharp bumps. Doesn't anyone make a quiet aftermarket RSM, or do you just have to keep replacing them with new OEM units when they crack? Reed/Seattle _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#3. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:54:18 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts > I have the JTD RSMs, too, and the right side is banging on sharp bumps. > Doesn't anyone make a quiet aftermarket RSM, or do you just have to keep > replacing them with new OEM units when they crack? Hm. Drat. I was hoping that someone would tell me that the JTD mounts don't make noise. I am going to hazard a guess that the Polyurethane bushing material that the RSMs are using just isn't holding up. Ron Stygar, wanna make us some Delrin bushings? (ouch!) The GC mounts use standard sway bar bushings, I might try a set from Energy Suspension, they typically make really good bushings. -kit

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#4. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Josh
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 21:22:52 -0500 From: Josh <M3@MotorSportPower.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts The JTD RSMs don't make noise unless the bushings are shot. If you have an aftermarket suspension or track the car you should only be running the track bushings. I have H&R Races w/ Bilsteins and at first I ran the streets (BMP didn't notify me that you MUST run the track bushings with my setup.. as per JTD's instructions) I went through the first set of streets in about 800 miles before the shock piston shot up through the mount and through the carpet. Having no luck with BMP (big surprise there) I dealt with Jim Mihal, the owner of JTD, who gave me the 411 on which bushings to use. Kit Wetzler wrote: > Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 16:54:18 -0800 > From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts > > > I have the JTD RSMs, too, and the right side is banging on sharp bumps. > > Doesn't anyone make a quiet aftermarket RSM, or do you just have to keep > > replacing them with new OEM units when they crack? > > Hm. Drat. I was hoping that someone would tell me that the JTD mounts > don't make noise. I am going to hazard a guess that the Polyurethane > bushing material that the RSMs are using just isn't holding up. Ron > Stygar, wanna make us some Delrin bushings? (ouch!) > > The GC mounts use standard sway bar bushings, I might try a set from > Energy Suspension, they typically make really good bushings. > > -kit > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - from Tom Tice
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:04:28 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings There is one other to consider but it may not be available just yet. I spoke to the guys at Ground Control just before Christmas. They claimed to be coming out with a new part that utilized a stock BMW bushing but included a reinforcement device that would stiffen and increase the life. I've been checking their web site but haven't seen any signs of it yet. I also haven't called back to get more accurate info. If anyone knows more about this please let me know. I also plan to replace these before the upcoming track season and it will be here before I know it. FWIW, they also promised a camber/caster adjustment plate to work with the stock struts that promised to not increase the ride height. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 -----Original Message----- From: James Dye [mailto:jamesdye@goldenmanor.org] Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 11:30 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 08:21:27 -0800 From: James Dye <jamesdye@goldenmanor.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Trailing Arm Bushings Looks like it is time to replace the rear trailing arm (toe) bushings in my 1995 M3. Dinan says use stock parts. Conversion Techniques says use a urethane part. TC Kline has an after market aluminum part. My car is a street car with a Dinan Stage III suspension. I am looking for long life, moderate to no down side (noise, cracking of other related parts due to stress, etc.) Any recommendations? Jim Dye Danville, CA ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************

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#6. Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 23:16:10 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) > on 1/19/01 13:52, Seth Thomas at porsche993@mindspring.com wrote: > >> If you were going to send them in for upgrading to SA external would it not >> be feasible to also have them upgraded to Double Adjustables. That is what >> I have on my car and they are very easy to adjust. The hardest part is >> crawling under the car with a screwdriver to adjust the compression. The >> rebound adjusts just like the SAs on the front. Got a quote back from ProParts West to convert Koni SA rears to external adjustment: $500 for the pair. Cost for a brand new set of externally double adjustable Konis from the same source: $625. Seems that conversion isn't too attractive... Neil 96 M3

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#7. Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts - from Sean Hester
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Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:07:07 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear shock mounts >or do you just have to keep >replacing them with new OEM units when they crack? that's what i did. more and more stock ones... of course, when you have those damn koni adjustibles, and you're taking the shock mounts off every time you want to adjust the shocks, it's not such a big deal. ;-P _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#8. Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 10:12:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Koni Adjusting (was Stock Springs) on 1/19/01 23:16, Neil Maller at neil.maller@gte.net wrote: > Got a quote back from ProParts West to convert Koni SA rears to external > adjustment: $500 for the pair. > Cost for a brand new set of externally double adjustable Konis from the same > source: $625. > Seems that conversion isn't too attractive... Chris Teague alerted me that the Koni DAs are $625 *each*, not per pair. Whoops. My subconscious must have rejected that as a reasonable possibility. So to summarize: converting to external adjustment is financially unattractive, whereas new Koni DAs are financially outrageous. Neil 96 M3

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#9. Help - Winter Tires - NY - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 10:38:33 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Help - Winter Tires - NY After an embarrasing afternoon of being stuck in my own driveway I decided I really needed snow tires or accept staying home for the winter. =20 I checked Tirerack and they list wheels but no 17" tires. They do show some 16" wheel and tire combinations. =20 My regular tire/service guy recommended staying with the 235/245 combo from summer.=20 =20 My questions =20 1. Will a 16" wheel really fit over the brakes? =20 2. Where can I get 17" wheels and winter tires, pref. in upstate NY or mail. =20 3. Would 4 235/45 tires be as good as the 235/45 and 245/40 combo that is standard? =20 TIA =20 Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters =20 A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State,=20 the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.=20

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#10. FW: Snows for your cage, thoughts of a cage nut (reply for Carey) - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 12:04:20 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> Subject: FW: Snows for your cage, thoughts of a cage nut (reply for Carey) A note I composed for some motorcycling buddies of mine this fall. Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com Natick, MA 92 330is Supercharged and Sharked 99 M3 Sharked -----Original Message----- Subject: Snows for your cage, thoughts of a cage nut Many will have opinions and most will think "their" snow tire is best. Think about what you want out of a winter cage tire and get it. I have driven and raced many of them and they currently fall into a few groups. - Studded to heck snows: fun on ice, good in deep snow, all other performance features are lowered. Big losses here in stopping distances on dry road and wet road. Pretty good wear except the studs but noisy - Blizzak original style: work great on ice and great in all kinds of snow, wear really fast with regard to the 50% or so of tread depth that is the "multicell" compound and then wear normally but are also normal tires. If driven carefully and sedately these will long outwear studs with regard to ice traction, nice and quite on the road. You loose dry and wet stopping distance here as well as cornering grip and feel. - good old snow tires: Ruddy grip in snow, better in deep snow than any all season, good wear, nothing to write home about on ice, decent on the road but noisy usually - performance snow tires: Hakkas seemed to be the original here to me but I don't know for sure. Michelin Pilot Alpines, Pirelli P210s, and the new Blizzak SnowSports and other such tires occupy this segment. Many "rider" (obmoto) type people who enjoy performance and have a clue how to drive in snow and ice will enjoy these, pretty quiet on the road vary by model, stiffer sidewalls than everything else above. You can't get Hakkas in 17" but the others you can. - good quality all season tires with mud and snow rating or just good all season, the Michelin Pilot XGTV4 is a good example here, when tread depth is good these are pretty good in snow and stuff and have better stopping distances in the dry and wet than anything else here as well as better wear than most anything, when it's dry you can have FUN - Summer performance tires: fuggetaboutit if it's really snowing or there is ice... unless your insurance agent is really cute and you want to spend time talking with her. With all snow tires increasing width reduces control in snow... my cage wears 225/45-17 snowshoes, the other cage wear 255/40-17 DOT race tires even for street use so it will be parked in a friends cave fr the winter. These big wide snow tires remind me of why Saabs USED to be so good in snow compared to other cars. ;) With regard to Boston area "road slop" this is even more important than when dealing with snow, narrow tires cut through. Obmoto2: Went for a ride again today into Sherborn, Millis, Franklin and whatever else is down there. I have been riding a ton since road racing season ended. I love to ride but I love to race cars. I am trying to order up one of those Gr8Designs vests and some stuff to supplement the 'stich Unobtainium vest I have. I just have the vest plugged in now but want to securely mount the plug on the CBR. I am getting BMW type plugs and think I will put them in the fairing. Any other Blackbird riders do this on their machine? Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com Natick, MA

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