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#1. Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars - from Bob Dorchester
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Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 22:30:48 -0600 From: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars I also have Eibach anti-roll bars set soft/soft, along with H&R/Bilstein Sports/K-Macs. At my last three autocrosses (one December and two January) I experienced the same sensation you described. I am running 10 month old Hoosiers and the front seemed to skip/bite/skip (shudder?), giving the symptom of severe understeer (plow), if the steering angle was too sharp for the speed. I did not have this problem when the tires were newer and track temps were warmer. Handling has always been very neutral. Temperatures for these events were in the 40-50 degree range. Perhaps it's just a combination of low temps and R-compound tires that are hard at low temp? At the January SCCA event, I found out that BSP 'Vettes with 15"? wide rubber don't like a wet track. I didn't like it much better, but the score is BMW 1, Corvette 0. Bob Dorchester 95 M3, ready for new track shoes > Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:09:36 -0600 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: Understeer with Eibach Bars > > Yes, it's BSP for real. I just did my first event in BSP Sunday. There > were no other entrants, so I got bumped into ASP. I got 1st place beating > out a Toyota MR2 Turbo. Anyway, this was my first event with the Eibach > swaybars. The car was flatter, but it still understeared like a pig. I > even experienced some shutter in the front tires when I was making some cut > backs for offset gates. I have the settings on soft\soft. I was using > Kumho R compounds, but they were on 45 degree asphalt and never got warm. I > also, for the first time, experienced axle hop at the launch. > > I'm having a hard time determining whether to blame the setup, the > temperature, or my driving. I know that any car will push if you go in too > hot regardless of setup. I don't know if I should go soft\stiff on the > settings or if I approached my turns too fast. Does anyone have experience > with a similar setup: Eibachs set soft\soft, stock suspension, X-brace. At > what point is it the driver or the setup? Ron, Bob?? > > A.J. > 95 M3
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#2. Re: Water Injection + Supercharger? - from albert jenab
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 02:39:40 -0500 From: albert jenab <jenab@his.com> Subject: Re: Water Injection + Supercharger? The Spearco kit is not exactly highly regarded in SC circles. Cheap components (low pressure windshield washer pump), etc. Though their intercoolers are very good. Another company, ERL/Aquamist, makes much better stuff. They have various types of kits, from the basic 100 psi pump, single nozzle system with an adjustable boost pressure switch (basically on/off) to computer-controlled units with multiple nozzles which vary amount of water as a function of boost and other parameters. They are located in England but there are US dealers. Expensive though, but I'd really recommend you consider it given the cost of the car and SC you are working with. Check http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ I have what's called the Stage 1 race kit on a SC Miata running 9 lbs of boost. Works quite well controlling detonation. It was about $500. The car also has an aftermarket programmable ECU so timing and fuel can be dialed in to take advantage of the WI. One thing to note, if you put the water nozzle after the throttle (where it sees vacuum when throttle is closed), you need a check valve in the water line ahead of the nozzle. Otherwise negative pressure will suck water out of the nozzle and into the engine under non-boost situations, which is Bad. You'll also want to run a mix of water and methanol, especially if it is below freezing outside. -Al 95 M3 91 Miata At 04:30 PM 1/22/01 -0600, "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> wrote: >i just got the Spearco water injection kit for my soon to be Open class >rally car. Would this kit be as effective on my 95 S/C'ed M3 as say an >Aftercooler? Would there be any benefit or is this strictly a Turbo >thing? >Thanks, >Frank
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#3. shark injector - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 23:46:05 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: shark injector just installed my shark injector. Very pleased. Car feels smoother. I did back to back horsepower comparisons with the G-tech. 220, 224, 228 with the stock ECU. 218, 234, 236 with the shark injector. Good enough for me! better on the butt dyno, too. Those extra 500 rpms are going to make me real happy on the track, too. -kit 97 m3 2:09 at Buttonwillow #13 CCW
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 07:59:23 -0500 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life I just replaced my stock shocks and struts about a week ago. The car has 97k on the clock, and the stock shocks were definitely toast. My car also didn't look bad on the bounce test, but with the new Konis the car barely moves when you push down on a corner, with the old shocks it felt like you could push it to the floor. The handling was also getting wierd, lots of monkey-motion going on. Every corner felt like it was doing something different, and it crashed and klunked over bumps. I'd say mine were done at about 80k. Anyone with a 95 should probably be looking at replacing shocks and struts at this point, after all some cars are nearly seven years old. My car rides so much better now, I can't believe I waited so long. But I still don't have the Konis adjusted where I want. I've got them at 3/4 front and rear - the car turns in ok, but understeers as I accellerate out of the turn. I think I need to bite the bullet and remove the rears and soften them up a bit. Any tips from you racer types? Eric 95 M3 00 Passat Wagon
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#5. Re: Signs of a GREAT shop - from Mike Tse
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:16:33 -0500 From: "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Signs of a GREAT shop Yeah, I was aware of that but I've been in cars that have LTW aluminum flywheels and stock clutches and they weren't idling as rough as mine. I was having harmonic vibrations a various RPMs as well (that I wanted to get looked at). The rough idle isn't completely gone but it's closer... I don't have your usual LTW flywheel setup. On Don's advice, I went with the E30 M3 high performance setup with M20 singlemass flywheel for my E36 M3 (supposed to grab better than stock clutch). The overall setup is lighter than stock but I believe a little heavier than the common LTW setup. This helps eliminating the need for an idle bump. Since the flywheel is steel, longevity and durability are definatly there. In my mind, since the overall diameter of MY flywheel and clutch are smaller, it have a smaller rotational inertia, which means not only do I get the peppier spoolup that people get with the LTW setup, I also get an actual HP increase because of the size. Like going to 18" wheels, you lose some accel...with the weight of the wheels and the weight being closer to the outer edge... (this is in my head...not sure of the reality of the situation though) Back to bumping the idle...I've had and driven my car for the past few weeks and have never had it stall yet. I believe that Don mentioned the reason for LTW flywheel'd cars to stall at idle was due to imbalances with the LTW flywheel. Anyways, thanks for keeping me honest..I forgot to include the ltw flywheel part in my post. I'm happy with my setup and happy with Autosport Perf.! Thanks. --- Mike Tse 95 M3 UUC/SS - M20 Flywheel/E30M3 Clutch BMWCCA NJ >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> >CC: <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: Signs of a GREAT shop >Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 18:10:47 -0500 > >on 1/22/01 12:10, "Mike Tse" <phid_bombadier@hotmail.com> wrote: > > > > Previously, I had brought my car in for a new ltw clutch/flywheel. > <snip> > > I drove the car for a few weeks and I still felt a bit of rough idle >(now > > from what I've heard, M3s do exhibit a bit of rough idle, but I'm a bit > > picky and paranoid...thoughs of the engine falling apart kept going >through > > my mind) > >Mike, > >You sort of skipped over the details of your lightened flywheel. > >Are you aware that an irregular idle is a normal consequence of installing >a >lighter flywheel on any E36 M3? > >The normal fix for this is to have the idle speed raised a bit via >software. >I don't know that a dealer can do this, but JimC certainly can and does. > >Neil >96 M3 > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. M3 Wheel Bearings Life - from Roy Kao
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:02:39 -0500 From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> Subject: M3 Wheel Bearings Life I've noticed a very slight grinding sound at low speed, around 5-20 mph and wonder if it's my wheel bearings. I can't tell exactly which side or which end of the car the noise is from. The car has about 42,000 miles on the odometer and has been through two seasons of driving schools, about seven 3-day weekends in total. The question is: is it my wheel bearings? If it's not, what else could be causing the noise? Any info would be greatly appreciated. TIA. Roy '99 M3/2 _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
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#7. Re: [E36M3] M3 Wheel Bearings Life - from F. Graziano
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:17:20 -0500 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Wheel Bearings Life Hey Dave sound familiar???? :-) Roy i had the same problem and low and behold it was my metal brake rotor backing. Believe it or not the piece was touching the rotor ever so slightly and caused a grinding noise. Don't know if this is your exact problem but i know it fixed mine.~ ~Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 10:04 AM Subject: [E36M3] M3 Wheel Bearings Life > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:02:39 -0500 > From: "Roy Kao" <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> > Subject: M3 Wheel Bearings Life > > I've noticed a very slight grinding sound at low speed, around 5-20 mph and > wonder if it's my wheel bearings. I can't tell exactly which side or which > end of the car the noise is from. > > The car has about 42,000 miles on the odometer and has been through two > seasons of driving schools, about seven 3-day weekends in total. The > question is: is it my wheel bearings? If it's not, what else could be > causing the noise? Any info would be greatly appreciated. TIA. > > Roy > '99 M3/2 > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. BMW lifetime parts replacement? - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:22:43 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: BMW lifetime parts replacement? with all this talk of shocks, i'd like to add my 95 as a data point as well as pose a question: my 95 was fine four the first 4 years and 28K miles (all of which were spent in the smooth(er) open roads of the midwest states. after 6 months and 6K miles in Boston my suspension was beggin for mercy. but i'm too obsessive to do things 'on time' so i put it off for another 18 months. : o at this point the front struts are creaking when it's cold?!?! so i saw about 35K of use before i felt it worth rectifying (but shocks fall away from 100% rather quickly -- we just get used to it over time). here's my question: i've seen posters and brochures at BMW dealerships touting lifetime parts warrantys on shocks, struts, water pumps, alternators, etc. it was for this reason that i decided to have a whiz-bang, meticulous tech at the local BMW center install new strut bearings/reinforcements/struts/mountsshocks/toe bushings. but when i called to make sure that a) the parts are in for tomorrow's appointment and b) the lifetime warranty is still in effect the service and parts guys claim they've never heard of it (but then again their sales guys didn't know about the performance driving school for E39 M5 buyers). does anyone know if this policy is still in effect? if it's not, i can go to jim allbright and pay 25% less for the labor and have the satisfaction of knowing the job wasn't (as) rushed. thanks, daanesh p.s. for all of those who responded to my "i'm being charged nearly $2K for a VANOS job at Euro Sport Motorcar in NH isn't this nuts???", thanks. I'm now disputing the charge with the credit card company. (Now to address the fact that they set the cam timing improperly and installed the wrong rack in my car). _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. Re: [E36M3] M3 Wheel Bearings Life - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 07:25:32 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 Wheel Bearings Life Have you considered the parking brake? The cable stretches from use and things get out of whack. You could try driving at the slow speed and pushing the parking brake release in and vary the position of the lever and see if the noise goes away. If it does, you can either have a dealer adjust it or someone else might be able to tell you how it's done. HTH, Chester --- Roy Kao <bimmerphile@hotmail.com> wrote: > I've noticed a very slight grinding sound at low speed, around 5-20 mph and > wonder if it's my wheel bearings. I can't tell exactly which side or which > end of the car the noise is from. > > The car has about 42,000 miles on the odometer and has been through two > seasons of driving schools, about seven 3-day weekends in total. The > question is: is it my wheel bearings? If it's not, what else could be > causing the noise? Any info would be greatly appreciated. TIA. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#10. RE: Near total-loss woes - A warning re dealer theft - from Mark McHarry
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:33:47 -0500 From: Mark McHarry <MarkMcHarry@compuserve.com> Subject: RE: Near total-loss woes - A warning re dealer theft I should have thought of it, but while my car was at BMW San Francisco for a rear bumper repair and inspection II , the warning triangle that comes standard on Euro delivery cars and a cargo net were stolen. BMW SF has ordered a new triangle. More than a month after getting my car back, I'm still waiting for it. When I get back to the States I'll call the owner to complain. It's a truism anyone taking their car to a dealer should remove personal items but I didn't think to remove the triangle since it came with the car just like the tools do. -- Mark M3 ITZTLI San Francisco Chapter, BMW CCA