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#1. Re: Shock life - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:55:22 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Shock life Do you have the part numbers for the plates and gaskets? Thanks, -rb >Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 17:51:58 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Re: Shock life > >on 1/22/01 17:30, "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> wrote: > >>Turns out the front upper stock mounting points on the car were deformed. >>The 95 M3 had no reinforcement, the subsequent model years BMW added a >>circular plate. My shop pulled down the deformed area, welded the the >>reinforcing plates, and then all is well. > >Rich brings up a good reminder. > >The reinforcing plates that BMW added to the 96+ M3 just sandwich between >the top of the strut bearing plates and the underside of the strut towers. >They are cheap, something like $6 each as I recall. Best of all, you don't >need to disassemble the struts to install the plates. > >Every 95 M3 owner who tracks their car, or who has aftermarket >springs/shocks, ought to add these reinforcements. > >Neil >96 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#2. lifter noise - from Jay
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 07:58:37 -0800 From: jay@pactitle.com (Jay) Subject: "lifter noise" Any Ideas on why I can hear my lifters when I get to work in the morning? I'm taking about a 30 mile highway comute that averages 70mph to stop and go traffic. I don't get on the car [wot]. But I pull in to work and hear that tapping. I use 10-30 mobile one and have at least 8.0 quarts in it at all times. It's starting to worry me as it''s starting to happen more often. Not to mention the fact that I have to tell people it's not uncommon and that autocrossers put in extra oil. The car is a 95m3 with 100,000 miles on it. Jay Johnson 95M3 sharked&intaked
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#3. Re: Scrunch sounds - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:57:00 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Re: Scrunch sounds My car makes the "scrunch" sound, but only when going over two particular speed bumps in my apartment complex, and only when the tempurature is below ~45 degrees. Its only done it since Oct or Nov (because it never got cold enough before?) and I just assumed the shocks were worn out. I checked the tops of the shock towers, and I still just think the shocks are worn out. Guess its time for new ones. H&R coil-overs? He he... ChipM "scrunch" at 76,000 > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 20:07:55 -0500 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > > > It also made a noticeable scrunch sound going over bumps, etc. The noise > > came from up front. > > > > Turns out the front upper stock mounting points on the car were deformed. > > The 95 M3 had no reinforcement, the subsequent model years BMW added a > > circular plate. My shop pulled down the deformed area, welded the the > > reinforcing plates, and then all is well. > > > > So, you might want to check and see if there is some deformation. With my > > car it was obvious by observing the three bolts coming up through the > > mounting holes -- they were splayed out at different angles, rather than > > being parallel. > > Anybody else had any experience with this scrunch sound and it's causes? I > have it but I assumed it was the 3" tubing on the ducted front brakes. Any > thoughts? > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 >
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#4. Re: Power loss?High RPM Hesitation - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:01:16 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@arches.uga.edu> Subject: Re: Power loss?High RPM Hesitation The dealer here in Athens diagnosed a big hesitation at around 5500 - in third gear, too. They can do it if they want to. By the way, my problem was a loose connection with the HFM hoses affecting the airflow into the engine. You might want to make sure everything is snug with no air leaks. ChipM > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 20:00:23 -0800 > From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Loss/High RPM Hesitation. > > Can't test beyond 55 mph. Yeah right, they just want you to wait until your > car goes out of its warranty. > > Go to another dealer. > > Bora > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Monday, January 22, 2001 7:20 PM > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Loss/High RPM Hesitation. > > > > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 03:14:37 -0000 > > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Loss/High RPM Hesitation. > > > > Car has 36900 miles now. The dealer checked for the plugs and wires and > said > > they are OK. But he cant test it past the legal limit of 55MPH. The > > hesitation still occurs and you can feel it past 5500 rpms. 2nd gear is > too > > fast to feel it. Does the dealer change the fuel filter at the 36K mile > > service? > > Thanks. > > Ahmad > > 98 M3/4 > > > > > > >From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net> > > >To: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com>, "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > > >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Loss/High RPM Hesitation. > > >Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 16:39:47 -0800 > > > > > >How many miles on the car and when was the fuel filter changed? > > > > > >Nick > > > > > > > I have this problem on the car that is really irritating me. After the > > >car > > > > warms up and on full throttle in 3rd, 4th and 5th, (on highway) after > > >5000 > > > > rpms the car hesitates kinda feels like the spark plugs are missing > but > > >when > > > > we checked, its OK. The hesitation makes it less smooth and I kina > weak > > >on > > > > power (because the rpms wont climb quickly now). I have an appointment > > >with > > > > the dealer for this monday and wanted to know some possible causes I > can > > > > highlight. In the past it had some troubles with the valves and the > > >VANOS > > > > system which was taken care by the warranty (I dont know what the > > >symptoms > > > > where because I am the 2nd owner now). I would really appreciate all > > > > responses. > > > > TIA > > > > Ahmad > > > > 98 M3/4 > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************************** > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > **************************************************************
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:05:21 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life Eric, If you want to make your car oversteer more (understeer less), you will want to *stiffen* the rear shocks, or soften the front shocks. Increasing the rebound adjustment on the shock adds to the weight transfer at that end of the car. Running stiffer springs or swaybars also does the same thing. FWW, I run my Koni SA full stiff on the rear, since I autocross heavily. It's a little stiff on the street, but still not too bad. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: <Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 5:10 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > But I still don't have the Konis adjusted where > I want. I've got them at 3/4 front and rear - the car turns in ok, but > understeers as I accellerate out of the turn. I think I need to bite the bullet > and remove the rears and soften them up a bit. Any tips from you racer types? > > Eric > 95 M3 > 00 Passat Wagon > > >
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#6. LTW Wing source - from dHoleman@spooze.com
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Date: 23 Jan 2001 09:43:36 -0800 From: dHoleman@spooze.com Subject: LTW Wing source Hi, I was distressed to read Ned's woes in purchasing a bogus wing. This is very sad. I sell a reproduction wing and am straight and am upfront about its quality both good and bad. The original is NLA and so I expect so crappy aftermarket options to start showing up. Really check things out before you buy sight unseen. Despite the banner on my site these are back in stock now and would be able to answer any questions and give references. David Holeman www.racepad.com www.racepad.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:57:13 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life >But I still don't have the Konis adjusted where >I want. I've got them at 3/4 front and rear - the car turns in ok, but >understeers as I accellerate out of the turn. I think I need to bite the >bullet >and remove the rears and soften them up a bit. Any tips from you racer >types? yeah. 3/4 turns in the rear is a bit stiff for the stock springs. but... if you're getting understeer coming OUT of corners, playing with the rears won't help you. the konis are rebound adjustible. so softening the rear will let more weight transfer to the front under braking. this'll help turn in a bit. but when you're getting on the gas to exit the corner, weight is transfering back, off the fronts. (wanting to make understeer). your choices (equipment wise) are to stiffen the bump of the rear, or stiffen the rebound of the front. with single adjustible konis you can't do the rear. that leaves stiffening the fronts. when i was at the track (or going on mountain drives) i'd stiffen the fronts to 1.5 or 2 turns. this would keep the weight in the front which would kill the understeer out of corners. BUT BEWARE. this keeps the weight OFF the rears. so if you get on the gas too much, now you're gonna get oversteer instead. and if you panic, and lift, you're gonna spin, and spin HARD! be careful until you're used to this. of coruse... the standard "i'm a driving instructor" answer is... "if you're getting underteer out of corners, you're getting on the gas too soon, or too hard". but... playing with the konis WILL help a bit. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:04:36 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life >If you want to make your car oversteer more (understeer less), >you will want to *stiffen* the rear shocks, or soften the front >shocks. Increasing the rebound adjustment on the shock adds >to the weight transfer at that end of the car. boggle? i admit it's early, and i haven't had any caffine, and i'm a driver not a mechanic but... i think you said it backwards... if you softern the rebound of the fronts, this will allow more weight to transfer form the front to the rear when coming out of corners. this will make MORE understeer and LESS oversteer. with rebound adjustible konis, if you want less understeer, you gotta stiffen the fronts, and soften the rears. i did it for 2 years with my M3. stiffening the fronts is the "out of corner" adjustment. softening the rears is the "turn in" adjustment. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#9. [E36M3]- UUC Swaybars. - from Anthony Pun
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:12:00 -0800 From: Anthony Pun <apun@Paradigm4.com> Subject: [E36M3] <FS> - UUC Swaybars. For sale... Solid UUC Sways with associated hardware. First offer of $375 takes them. I bought them used from another list member in December and have not installed them. Decided to leave the suspension stock, for now, and buy a boost controller for the turbo instead. Please respond privately. Tony
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Lee Hassig
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:13:36 -0500 From: "Lee Hassig" <lhassig@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life Folks, Jeremy wrote: > Anybody else had any experience with this scrunch sound and it's causes? I > have it but I assumed it was the 3" tubing on the ducted front brakes. Any > thoughts? I have a scrunching noise on bumps at all four corners, worse when the weather's cold. The BMW tech at Curry's in Chantilly, VA looked the suspension over on a rack with the springs fully extended. The only thing he noticed was a silvery surface to the lowest turn of each sprint where it rubs against the spring perch. He told me that this was caused by grit having insinuated itself between the spring and the perch, which was also responsible for the scrunching noise. When I changed from winter to summer tires last spring, I sprayed the areas liberally with my power washer to rinse out as much grit as I could, then applied sprayable graphite where rubbing was evident. The noise was less loud for awhile, so maybe grit is the problem. However, to solve it well, I suspect that you have to remove the springs to thoroughly clean them and the perches, top and bottom. Maybe also renew the rubber cushions(?) that line the perches to prevent metal-to-metal (I guess). Lee Hassig '95 M3