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#1. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Matt Henson
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:44:00 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life I have a question.. what does shock valving have to do with weight transfer? Weight transfer is a function of acceleration and the COG. The shocks can affect body roll. And there is a little weight transfer associated with the roll but it's minimal. I'm guessing that it comes down to F/R roll stiffness ratios. The end with the most stiffness will break loose first. If you're getting understeer when exiting turns then this is becuase the weight has transferred to the rear. You can adjust the roll stiffnesses but isn't is more appropriate to do this with bars/springs than shocks? Or is the idea that by adjusting the front rebound/rear bump that you can effectivly adjust the transient roll stiffness of each end in a way that affects accelerating from a corner rather than under all conditions? It's very difficult to have a car that's neutral under both braking and accelerating since weight will transfer. Any insight would be appreciated :-) -Matt --- Chris Teague <cteague@home.com> wrote: > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 09:05:21 -0800 > From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > > Eric, > > If you want to make your car oversteer more > (understeer less), > you will want to *stiffen* the rear shocks, or > soften the front > shocks. Increasing the rebound adjustment on the > shock adds > to the weight transfer at that end of the car. > Running stiffer > springs or swaybars also does the same thing. > > FWW, I run my Koni SA full stiff on the rear, since > I autocross > heavily. It's a little stiff on the street, but > still not too bad. > > Chris Teague > 97 M3/4 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 5:10 AM > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > > > > But I still don't have the Konis adjusted where > > I want. I've got them at 3/4 front and rear - the > car turns in ok, but > > understeers as I accellerate out of the turn. I > think I need to bite the > bullet > > and remove the rears and soften them up a bit. > Any tips from you racer > types? > > > > Eric > > 95 M3 > > 00 Passat Wagon > > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:48:33 -0500 From: Steve Hazard <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars AJ, first congrats on knocking off the MR2 Turbo..... The shudder you experienced with the Kumho's can be attributed to two causes....Under inflation on the fronts, or exceeding slip angles...ie overtaxing the contact patches. Kumho's hop when they're pissed off....they will hop when under inflated because the contact patch will roll out onto the shoulder(internal construction if I remember right) or when pushed beyond adhesion. I ran the 225/45's in 99 and early 2000 on my M3.... I found with 2.5 degrees of camber(fronts) that about 43lbs cold in the fronts worked best....Then bleed them down just before your next run to the 43 again. So bleeding down is necessary.....or they will act up from over inflation..... Since your running stock Camber up front the Kumho's will require a tad more TP to combat roll out also.... They will hold heat for awhile BTW.... If you turn into those quick transitions too quickly the front will hop on you then "catch"....but you've just lost precious time because of it.....I found the Kumho's to be a great R Compound tire because they were forgiving and communicative.....I doubt the air temps had anything to do with it.... I'm now running on the 245/40 Hoosier A Compounds...... At the track the Kumho's when over driven will heat up big time.....they pronounce this with severe wheel hop! LY at NHIS I experienced this going through the 12 Degree banking at 105+MPH.....very scary....when I limped around to the pits and checked the tire pressure my fronts were 55 and 62 PSI....Yipes....Yours truly was pushing the car to hard through the slower corners(stock suspension at that time).....I was braking very late and entering a tad hot ....so the tires quickly heated up and talked back to me.... Hope this helps..... Regards, Steve. > Yes, it's BSP for real. I just did my first event in BSP Sunday. There > were no other entrants, so I got bumped into ASP. I got 1st place beating > out a Toyota MR2 Turbo. Anyway, this was my first event with the Eibach > swaybars. The car was flatter, but it still understeared like a pig. I > even experienced some shutter in the front tires when I was making some cut > backs for offset gates. I have the settings on soft\soft. I was using > Kumho R compounds, but they were on 45 degree asphalt and never got warm. I > also, for the first time, experienced axle hop at the launch. > > I'm having a hard time determining whether to blame the setup, the > temperature, or my driving. I know that any car will push if you go in too > hot regardless of setup. I don't know if I should go soft\stiff on the > settings or if I approached my turns too fast. Does anyone have experience > with a similar setup: Eibachs set soft\soft, stock suspension, X-brace. At > what point is it the driver or the setup? Ron, Bob?? > > A.J. > 95 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 13:53:59 -0500 From: Steve Hazard <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars Bob your Hoosiers might be shot.....they "go away" slowly after so many cycles....Since I have no idea how many runs you did in that 10 month period I'm guessing, but it might be time for a new set :-) YMMV but I figure 70-80 runs on a set of Autocross compound Hoosiers (with appropiate Neg Camber) is about it....... The air temps should not be a factor...the Hoosier will heat up very quickly even at those temps... Regards, Steve Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 22:30:48 -0600 From: Bob Dorchester <rjdorche@concentric.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Understeer with Eibach Bars I also have Eibach anti-roll bars set soft/soft, along with H&R/Bilstein Sports/K-Macs. At my last three autocrosses (one December and two January) I experienced the same sensation you described. I am running 10 month old Hoosiers and the front seemed to skip/bite/skip (shudder?), giving the symptom of severe understeer (plow), if the steering angle was too sharp for the speed. I did not have this problem when the tires were newer and track temps were warmer. Handling has always been very neutral. Temperatures for these events were in the 40-50 degree range. Perhaps it's just a combination of low temps and R-compound tires that are hard at low temp? At the January SCCA event, I found out that BSP 'Vettes with 15"? wide rubber don't like a wet track. I didn't like it much better, but the score is BMW 1, Corvette 0. Bob Dorchester 95 M3, ready for new track shoes > Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 12:09:36 -0600 > From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> > Subject: Understeer with Eibach Bars
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Sean Hester
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:34:48 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life >If you're getting understeer when exiting turns then >this is becuase the weight has transferred to the >rear. You can adjust the roll stiffnesses but isn't >is more appropriate to do this with bars/springs than >shocks? yes. but... when you have that knob for the shocks staring you in the face, it's VERY tempting to just turn it. ;-) this as opposed to the pretty major job of changing springs or sway bar settings. for a race car you want to do it with a combination of all three. but with a street car, stiffening the shocks is a handy (if not perfect) way of getting rid of understeer with 30 seconds of effort when you get to the track. (and undoing it when you leave) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#5. RE: Intermittent rough Idle - from david tow
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 12:31:34 -0800 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Intermittent rough Idle Jason, Very unlikely you'd bent your valves. If that happened to your car, it would shake like a wet dog. __ __ David Tow / / / / | / | ______ 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. Selling my 95 M3 - from Rich Gay
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:11:19 -0600 From: "Rich Gay" <rich_gay@linbeck.com> Subject: Selling my 95 M3 I recently purchased an '87 325is race car, and have ordered a tow vehicle (2001 F350 PowerStroke), and must part with my beloved E36 M3. I am the original owner of this car, bought it in December 1995, and thought I'd drive it for ten or twenty years. It has been a ton of fun. But alas, garage space and finances won't work for me to have both the tow vehicle and M3, so the M3 must go. I want to find it a good home. Here are the details. 1995 M3, build date 7/95, purchased new from dealer, about 40 miles on the clock, in 12/95. Car has about 75,000 miles. Avus Blau (dark metallic blue) exterior, light gray leather interior. 5-speed manual transmission. Sunroof, cruise control, manual seats, am/fm/cassette, etc. Suspension upgrades including lower x-brace (front subframe to main frame reinforcement), H&R springs (the least-aggressive, no lowering), Koni adjustable shocks, UUC adjustable swaybars front and rear, Ground Control rear upper shock mount (billet aluminum), reinforced front upper shock mounts/fixed camber plates. JTD stage 1 brake ducting (brings more air into wheel well to cool brakes). UUC short shift kit with effort reducing option. UUC polished aluminum shift knob. Currently installed, but may remove if buyer doesn't want them, are 4-point Scroth harnesses for both driver and passenger. Also have a set of BMW wheels I use for my track tires. Some chips on front of hood, a few dings on side panels (which I'm getting fixed), otherwise car is in great shape. Maintained with Mobile 1 engine oil, and Redline in the gearbox and differential. Price is $22,000 firm. Car is located in Houston, TX. Please contact me via: email: rich_gay@mac.com phone: 281-414-3181 Thanks, - Rich
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#7. re: my own question @ BMW lifetime replacement warranty - from daanesh chanduwadia
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 21:55:58 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: re: my own question @ BMW lifetime replacement warranty got the skinny on the 'lifetime' warranty i asked about earlier. for the first 12 months, the failed part will be replaced at no charge to the customer. after 12 months, the part is covered but the labor is not. that is all, daanesh _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. new web site address - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 15:58:05 -0600 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: new web site address I just want to let everyone know that bmwmpower.com has moved and the new URL is www.bmw-m.net. Please make a note of it. Also, I want to apologize if anyone has sent an email to me that has not been answered yet. I'm not ignoring you, I just haven't had a chance to get to them yet. Sorry! Suzy
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Shock life - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 14:02:41 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life Sean, Check out the info from Koni/ProParts at: http://www.propartsusa.net/KoniTuneTN.html Under the rebound adjustment, second paragraph, they state that increasing the rebound damping on one end of the car will *decrease* the traction on that end of the car. So increasing the front rebound stiffness should make the car understeer more. There are of course lots of variables at work here, and it's hard to argue if stiffer on front works on your car. I had to run mine full soft in front to get good handling, and full stiff in back. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 23, 2001 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 10:04:36 -0800 > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shock life > > >If you want to make your car oversteer more (understeer less), > >you will want to *stiffen* the rear shocks, or soften the front > >shocks. Increasing the rebound adjustment on the shock adds > >to the weight transfer at that end of the car. > > boggle? i admit it's early, and i haven't had any caffine, and i'm a driver > not a mechanic but... i think you said it backwards... > > if you softern the rebound of the fronts, this will allow more weight to > transfer form the front to the rear when coming out of corners. this will > make MORE understeer and LESS oversteer. > > with rebound adjustible konis, if you want less understeer, you gotta > stiffen the fronts, and soften the rears. i did it for 2 years with my M3. > stiffening the fronts is the "out of corner" adjustment. softening the > rears is the "turn in" adjustment. > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#10. M3 Steering Wheel Lock Question/Survey - from Daniel
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 14:35:14 -0800 (PST) From: Daniel <m3_driver@yahoo.com> Subject: M3 Steering Wheel Lock Question/Survey Hello, When you remove the key from the ignition and the steering wheel locks, does it lock in the straight ahead position or do you have to jiggle it left/right 2-3" for it to lock? Also, do you guys have the same number of turns left and right or does one require more turns to get to the full lock position? Thanks Dan __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/