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#1. RE: [E36M3] driving tips - from MDadgar@handspring.com
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:31:54 -0800 From: MDadgar@handspring.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] driving tips Frank wrote: > well, we're on the subject. Any sites that have good basic info on Heel > toe > techniques. > Just buy this: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0837602270/o/qid=980551861/sr=8-1/ref =aps_sr_b_1_1/107-4949513-9964550 - Mark '95 M3 '97 528i 5-spd '88 M3, Hennarot ---- Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Visor (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc Check out Visor at www.handspring.com!
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#2. Rubber Anti-sway Bar Bushings, where to buy. - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:32:19 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Rubber Anti-sway Bar Bushings, where to buy. Does anyone know if some company makes hard rubber bushings for UUC or Eibach sway bars? I would really like to change my poly-urethane bushings for rubber bushings. Bora ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:24 AM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Broken sway bar mounts and brackets > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:17:23 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Broken sway bar mounts and brackets > > on 1/26/01 8:34, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > > > Fellow digesters. I have a '98 M3 cabriolet with HR adjustables and RD sway > > bars. I originally had the bars set at stiff front-stiff rear. I broke the > > sway bar mounting bracket in the front three times (once on one side, twice > > on the other). > <snip> > > Two questions: Any ideas other than the fact that it is a convertible that > > may be causing the problem? Secondly are there any aftermarket brackets for > > the front that I can use? I am running the RD's and urethane bushings in > > the factory bracket housings? > > Dave, > > I previously posted about breaking a rear swaybar tab, and cracking both > front mounting brackets, on my 96 M3 with RD bars. We also found cracking > fronts 2 other cars at Mid Ohio last fall. > > I think the reason for the rears breaking is simple enough: the tabs are > flimsy anyhow (supposedly reinforced on 98 and later cars), and the > additional load of larger bars and stiff bushing overwhelms them. The fix is > to weld on a reinforcement. > > I believe that the situation with the fronts may be somewhat different. > These U-brackets are actually quite stout. However because the urethane > bushings are also very stiff, the flat tabs on the brackets no longer sit > flush on their mounting plane without being forced. As you tighten the nuts, > the bushing barely compresses, and so the flat tabs have to flex. This puts > them under permanent stress, and they eventually start to crack along the > right angle bend. > > Mine took 2 years (after installing the RD bars) to crack, on a car which > sees about 20 track days per year. Fortunately these brackets are cheap and > easy to replace. I now have a couple of spares for my track box... > > As an experiment I've sandwiched a washer in between the bracket and > mounting plane to take some stress off the tab. An alternative would be to > use a rubber bushing instead of the RD urethane. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Re: Need Help: 235 or 245 for a 17x8.5 rim ??? - from Joe Tan
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:53:55 -0800 (PST) From: Joe Tan <mailjtan@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Need Help: 235 or 245 for a 17x8.5 rim ??? 235/40/17 with will fit your 8.5 wheel just fine. But your wheel will be very vulnerable to curb rash. 245/40/17 would be the right size. But with 38mm offset you will have fender clearence problem. You can either roll your fender or get wheels with 40 to 42mm offset. Joe T. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#4. [E36M3] driving tips - from Joe Kannookadan
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 18:01:03 -0600 From: "Joe Kannookadan" <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> Subject: [E36M3] driving tips http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/notebook/shifting/index.html http://www.shortshifter.com/techniques2.htm --- joe > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 18:18:54 -0500 > From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] driving tips > > well, we're on the subject. Any sites that have good basic info on Heel toe > techniques. > thanks, > Frank
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#5. RE: [E36M3] driving tips - from Matt Henson
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 16:00:39 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] driving tips Yea, definitely learn on the street. Just don't heel and toe _too_ early in the zone. It can upset your balance, messing with braking or worse overrev the engine. I usually start the downshift about 1/2 way through. -Matt --- MDadgar@handspring.com wrote: > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 14:42:00 -0800 > From: MDadgar@handspring.com > Subject: RE: [E36M3] driving tips > > Dan wrote: > > a question for those of you that track your cars: > what do you think is > > the best way to develop good shifting techniques? > unfortunately, > > i came late to the world of manual transmissions > and i'm finding that i'm > > quite slow in corners due to poor gear shifts. > from what i've > > seen, it seems that heel-toe shifting is almost > required for smooth gear > > changes in corners. i've heard some say that it > can be done without heel- > > toe techniques, but i can't imagine how that would > work. > > > Chance are good that you're trying to shift too late > (ie too far into the > braking zone) and rushing the whole deal, ruffling > the car's feathers as you > try to get everything done quickly. Shift (and > brake if necessary) earlier. > Get the gear shift done smoothly and the car > balanced back on the gas. > You'll find that as your shifting technique > improves, you'll be able to > shift later in the braking zone. > > I personally feel that learning to heel&toe is > critical to being smooth on > the track. Which is basically the same thing as > being fast. I highly > recommend that you learn to do this, but DON'T try > to learn at the track. > Learn on the street, in your everyday driving. > You'll find that it'll be > easier to do once you get on the track because > you'll be pushing the brake > harder, which lines it up with the gas pedal better. > > - Mark > '95 M3 > '97 528i 5-spd > '88 M3, Hennarot > ---- > Mark Dadgar - Product Manager, Visor > (650) 230-5037 voice - (650) 230-2100 fax > mdadgar@handspring.com - Handspring, Inc > Check out Visor at www.handspring.com! > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you > from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the > list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the > requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as > the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#6. Rubber Anti-sway Bar Bushings, where to buy. - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 19:24:56 -0500 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Rubber Anti-sway Bar Bushings, where to buy. Bora, Use the regular BMW rubber bushings. For the Eibach front bars (the 26.000 mm one's) use part # 31 35 1 140 188. These have a 26.0000 mm inside diameter. For the UUC front bars (the 25.400 mm (i.e., 1 inch)) use part # 31 35 1 090 268. These have a 25.5 mm inside diameter. I could not find rubber bushings to match the Eibach (24.000 mm) rear bars nor the UUC (23.812 mm) rear bars. Cheers, Jim E. Bora Akyol wrote: > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 15:32:19 -0800 > From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> > Subject: Rubber Anti-sway Bar Bushings, where to buy. > > Does anyone know if some company makes hard rubber bushings for UUC or > Eibach sway bars? I would really like to change my poly-urethane bushings > for rubber bushings. > > Bora > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 6:24 AM > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Broken sway bar mounts and brackets > > > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 09:17:23 -0500 > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > > Subject: Re: Broken sway bar mounts and brackets > > > > on 1/26/01 8:34, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > > > > > Fellow digesters. I have a '98 M3 cabriolet with HR adjustables and RD > sway > > > bars. I originally had the bars set at stiff front-stiff rear. I broke > the > > > sway bar mounting bracket in the front three times (once on one side, > twice > > > on the other). > > <snip> > > > Two questions: Any ideas other than the fact that it is a convertible > that > > > may be causing the problem? Secondly are there any aftermarket brackets > for > > > the front that I can use? I am running the RD's and urethane bushings > in > > > the factory bracket housings? > > > > Dave, > > > > I previously posted about breaking a rear swaybar tab, and cracking both > > front mounting brackets, on my 96 M3 with RD bars. We also found cracking > > fronts 2 other cars at Mid Ohio last fall. > > > > I think the reason for the rears breaking is simple enough: the tabs are > > flimsy anyhow (supposedly reinforced on 98 and later cars), and the > > additional load of larger bars and stiff bushing overwhelms them. The fix > is > > to weld on a reinforcement. > > > > I believe that the situation with the fronts may be somewhat different. > > These U-brackets are actually quite stout. However because the urethane > > bushings are also very stiff, the flat tabs on the brackets no longer sit > > flush on their mounting plane without being forced. As you tighten the > nuts, > > the bushing barely compresses, and so the flat tabs have to flex. This > puts > > them under permanent stress, and they eventually start to crack along the > > right angle bend. > > > > Mine took 2 years (after installing the RD bars) to crack, on a car which > > sees about 20 track days per year. Fortunately these brackets are cheap > and > > easy to replace. I now have a couple of spares for my track box... > > > > As an experiment I've sandwiched a washer in between the bracket and > > mounting plane to take some stress off the tab. An alternative would be to > > use a rubber bushing instead of the RD urethane. > > > > Neil > > 96 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] driving tips - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 20:10:34 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] driving tips As someone who is also new to tracking a car I can empathize with your problem. My advantage was having never owned an automatic. The key to learning to heal and toe, IMHO, is to practice and get into the habit whenever you drive. Before the M3, my primary car was a 5 speed Cherokee which can be heel and toed with practice but the pedals don't make it easy. The pedal placement in the M3 makes it much easier. When practicing, wear the same shoes you wear at the track if possible. Before my first trip I practiced around town in the driving shoes I got to get used to them. Now I usually heel and toe with whatever I'm wearing, mostly boots. After a while it becomes natural. Good luck ----- Original Message ----- From: <dahermann@alum.mit.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2001 05:34 PM Subject: [E36M3] driving tips > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 17:25:12 -0500 (EST) > From: dahermann@alum.mit.edu > Subject: driving tips > > a question for those of you that track your cars: what do you think is > the best way to develop good shifting techniques? unfortunately, > i came late to the world of manual transmissions and i'm finding that i'm > quite slow in corners due to poor gear shifts. from what i've > seen, it seems that heel-toe shifting is almost required for smooth gear > changes in corners. i've heard some say that it can be done without heel- > toe techniques, but i can't imagine how that would work. > > any suggestions for how to improve would be appreciated (whether > heel-toe or otherwise). right now, track time is a waste of time and money > since i'm braking and turning for corners far too conservatively to > compensate for my poor gear shifts. > > tia, > > dan > 88 325is > 96 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] driving tips - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 22:34:44 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] driving tips I wouldn't worry about not knowing heal-toe already. Saw a scca transam race last year (texas?) where they interviewed one of the new drivers. He was a nascar guy. Forgive me, I don't remember exactly, but it went something like this: when asked what he thought of the road course after the race: "Well, its basically the same, 'cept your always shifting. I'm used to just put it in gear and hit the gas. And then theres the brakes and braking points. Gotta pick up on that heel-toe-stuff too. And i'm not that used to turning right, oh and these guys make *sharp* left turns! Other than that, its basically the same..." :) Jason
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: A Cautionary Tale - Followup - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 06:07:23 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: A Cautionary Tale - Followup I'm in. And I have to come from San Diego. Jim Sean Burke wrote: > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 16:16:35 -0500 > From: "Sean Burke" <sburke@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: Re: A Cautionary Tale - Followup > > If I remember correctly, this guy lives in Zanesville, OH. Are there any > other M3 owners in the Columbus/Dayton/Zanesville area that would like to > join me in paying him a visit if Ned wishes? > > I'm sure enough of us on his doorstep might convince him to return the > money. > > --Sean > > '98 M3/4 > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2001 10:53:29 -0600 > From: "Ned Coonen" <ncoonen@hotmail.com> > Subject: A Cautionary Tale - Followup > > Marshall called me a week ago today asking for me to give him time to get > the money together to buy the fake wing back from me. He said he had > discovered that I wasn't "just another a$$hole on eBay". That was due in > part to the pressure brought to bear by many of you. Thanks! I agreed not > speak publicly about the deal for a week. He was to arrange for the funds. > Shame on me for trusting him again. It seems that he has used that week to > roll up the sidewalks and disappear. He made a lame effort to change his > name on eBay from JPBIKEWORLD TO BIMMERBOYY and discovered that all feedback > and fraud complaints remain linked. > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#10. Heel and toe - from Ed Tang
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Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2001 11:14:22 -0800 (PST) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Heel and toe Frank wrote: "well, we're on the subject. Any sites that have good basic info on Heel toe techniques. thanks, Frank" In all the books on racing I've read there is no in depth coverage of heel and toe. It is 'basic info' so to say. I believe it is a technique that requires a lot more practice than theory. You just have to develop that natural pattern into your driving. You'll have to keep working at it until the point where your transition into a corner is seemless. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/