-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Street brake pads - from twisty M3
Top
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 08:43:48 -0800 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Street brake pads I don't have any personal experience with the EBC Greens, but *many* people on bimmer.org have complained, and EBC even put out some sort of disclaimer regarding these pads on M3s. Apparently, just about everyone was warping these rotors *on the street*! They no longer recommend the Greens for the E36M3 (that and what was recently said about the Reds will keep me from tryin any EBC pads... on my car anyway). ;) Jonathan L. >From: Jeff Thompson > >I was thinking about EBC Green pads but I really have no experience with >anything other than Repco MetalMasters (or whoever produces them now), and >that >is only on other cars. I also have no idea what pads are on the car >(whatever >was there when I bought it), but they are terrible when wet and worse when >they >are cold and wet. > >Any suggestions are appreciated. >Thanks, >-jeff > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. lug stud conversion ? - from George M. Kofman
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:50:20 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: lug stud conversion ? Has anyone done this ? I see huge benefits (EZ tire changes), but any drawbacks (extra weight, etc) ? if you've done this, where did you obtain the parts ? GMK '97 M3 sedan (www.motorsports-exchange.com)
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] dead battery - from Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:52:45 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] dead battery 4 years sounds about correct. i've heard that BMW batteries are supposed to be a 5 year battery (conveniently out of warranty), but the battery in my 96 M3 lasted about 3 years. so much for maintenance free, huh? an Interstate MT-91 fits, is slightly cheaper, and is 11 pounds lighter than the OEM battery. i did see an ultra-lightweight battery recently (sub 10 lbs.) but was unsure weather it would provide the necessary CCA required for the E36. hope this helps. ben ------------------------------------------- ben liaw - ben@shortshifter.com http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > So I must have left the dome light on and it drained the battery enough to > not be able to crank the starter. Question - the battery is 4 yrs old and > still OEM original. Should I be looking for a new one ? > > GMK > '97 M3 sedan (www.motorsports-exchange.com)
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] re: Steering the rear end of the car with the brakes - from peter@guagenti.com
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:56:43 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] re: Steering the rear end of the car with the brakes > If you use both at the same time, that's what's referred to as as left > foot braking. Some autocross champions swear by it, One of the fastest guys in the Bay Area, Peter Mottaz, uses this technique to great effect with his G Stock 325is. His take on it -- as I grilled him about it when he was my instructor last year -- was that autocross is a matter of 100ths of a second, so thhere is not time to switch your foot back and forth. Trail braking (staying on the brakes after you've turned in to keep the weight to the nose) is just a part of it -- it's all about saving time. I've been able to shave a couple seconds off on certain courses by trail braking into some tight corners, but I am by no stretch of the imagination one of the fast drivers, so take it with a grain of salt. Most of us are fighting understeer when we autocross, so anythign we can do to keep the weight forward while turning usually helps. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Street brake pads - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:01:32 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Street brake pads They make pads for Razor scooters? Jim twisty M3 wrote: > They no longer recommend the Greens for the > E36M3 (that and what was recently said about the Reds will keep me from > tryin any EBC pads... on my car anyway). ;)
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. FW: - from NGoodban@tribune.com
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:01:03 -0600 From: <NGoodban@tribune.com> Subject: FW: -----Original Message----- From: Goodban, Nick Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 10:52 AM To: M3emaillist (E-mail) Subject: FW: -----Original Message----- From: Goodban, Nick Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 2:59 PM To: E36M3list (E-mail) Subject: EBC Green pads are OK for road but not good for sustained track use like driving schools. I and others at BMW driving schools found their wear rate was very rapid. I will not buy them again. The best road pad I've used was expensive (Pagid Blue), hence I only bought front pads. They were also excellent for autoX and didn't dust much. They appear to be hard wearing but don't squeal. Nick G. 95M3 plus Conforti under the hood, Bilsteins, H&R sport springs From: "Jeff Thompson" <jthompson@telco.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 7:53 AM Subject: [E36M3] Street brake pads > Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 11:51:21 -0500 > From: Jeff Thompson <jthompson@telco.com> > Subject: [E36M3] Street brake pads > > People, > > My 95 M3 will be in need of brake pads in the near future, and I was wondering > what the consensus was on the best street pads. This car isn't tracked, and > I don't have any plans to do so in the near future. So I am primarily > concerned with cold street performance and semi-agressive street driving. > > I was thinking about EBC Green pads but I really have no experience with > anything other than Repco MetalMasters (or whoever produces them now), and that > is only on other cars. I also have no idea what pads are on the car (whatever > was there when I bought it), but they are terrible when wet and worse when they > are cold and wet. > > Any suggestions are appreciated. > Thanks, > -jeff > > > >
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: price for a '95 M3 - from George M. Kofman
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:08:20 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: Re: price for a '95 M3 > I have almost the exact car. I'm selling it with my set of winter > wheels/tires plus 2 extra street tires. I'm having a helluva time moving > it at $24,500. My car is EXTRA clean. Talk about frustrating. > Not trying to be a bummer, just warning you of what may be out there. > Unfortunately, the prices of the '95 M3's are plummeting. Kbb had my car at > $27,800 when I first advertised it 3 months ago. Today Kbb has it at > $25,200. About 2 weeks ago, while looking for my dream car - a Caterham deDion Super 7, I saw a pic of what appeared to me a LTW (flag on fender, etc) in one of the high-line car monthlies. The price was amazing ~25K asking for a reasonably low-mi car (for a LTW being sold by a high-line east coast dealer). when I called, I was told the car was sold. I asked a few more questions, and discovered it was not a LTW but a regular white M3 with a flag decal and a few options. Just for shits and giggles, I asked how much it sold for. The DEALER got $22 or 22.5K for it. I asked him for pricing on a few other cars, and he was on the money. This appears to be a legit price, as I was recently quoted 25K on a TRADE-IN for my '97. FWIW, KBB doesn't sell cars. Auctions and dealers do... Check what the dealers in your area are GETTING for these cars, and price accordingly. Also, keep in mind that the economy is slowing down and the dealers are eager to move their inventories. YMMV. GMK '97 M3
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: price for a '95 M3 - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:11:42 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: price for a '95 M3 How about the whackos who think that E30M3s are worth $15K+? "George M. Kofman" wrote: > Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:08:20 -0600 > From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> > Subject: Re: price for a '95 M3 > > > I have almost the exact car. I'm selling it with my set of winter > > wheels/tires plus 2 extra street tires. I'm having a helluva time moving > > it at $24,500. My car is EXTRA clean. Talk about frustrating. > > Not trying to be a bummer, just warning you of what may be out there. > > Unfortunately, the prices of the '95 M3's are plummeting. Kbb had my car > at > > $27,800 when I first advertised it 3 months ago. Today Kbb has it at > > $25,200. > > About 2 weeks ago, while looking for my dream car - a Caterham deDion Super > 7, I saw a pic of what appeared to me a LTW (flag on fender, etc) in one of > the high-line car monthlies. The price was amazing ~25K asking for a > reasonably low-mi car (for a LTW being sold by a high-line east coast > dealer). when I called, I was told the car was sold. I asked a few more > questions, and discovered it was not a LTW but a regular white M3 with a > flag decal and a few options. Just for shits and giggles, I asked how much > it sold for. The DEALER got $22 or 22.5K for it. I asked him for pricing > on a few other cars, and he was on the money. This appears to be a legit > price, as I was recently quoted 25K on a TRADE-IN for my '97. > > FWIW, KBB doesn't sell cars. Auctions and dealers do... Check what the > dealers in your area are GETTING for these cars, and price accordingly. > Also, keep in mind that the economy is slowing down and the dealers are > eager to move their inventories. > > YMMV. > > GMK > '97 M3 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Price for any E36 M3 (was: price for a '95 M3) - from John Stoj
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 09:14:06 -0800 (PST) From: John Stoj <John_Stoj@excite.com> Subject: Price for any E36 M3 (was: price for a '95 M3) Let me begin by apologizing to all E36 M3 owners. I thought I would be able to avoid this situation, but it seems my bad luck has followed me again. It is my fault that the prices of E36 M3's are dropping dramatically. All stocks I purchase fall in price, and for some crazy reason, my cars also seem to lose quite a bit of value as soon as I drive them off the lot. Again, my apologies to everyone. I still have to get a letter out to the Wall Street Journal apologizing for my entry into tech stocks in early 2000. - John '97 M3 - worth less that I bought it for _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Brembo rotors - from j.demartino@us.qiagen.com
Top
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:04:45 +0100 From: j.demartino@us.qiagen.com Subject: Brembo rotors "Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 21:37:52 -0500 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Brembo rotors This was probably not warped rotors, actually, but the PF90's depositing carbon on the rotor face (which they need to do to function effectively). Street driving will NOT cause the carbon transfer that the PF90's need. ========================================================= I had John send me the rotors and I measured them on the lathe....both were in spec. One had .06mm of runout, the other .07mm runout...no great readings but still in spec (BMW claims up to .10mm is acceptable (.004")). I suspect as well a transfer of material from the pads plus suspect wheel bearings. The rotors were trued to .025-.03mm and returned to John. He should install them on the hub/bearings and measure the runout to see if the .03mm measured on the lathe exceeds .10mm once they're installed on the hubs. SD" This is all true... and Steve was kind enough to measure and turn the rotors to better than original spec, gratis... thanks Steve. Explaining all that was a bit too much typing for me, particularly because I have not tried the rotors again so I do not know if they will work well next time anyway. The only thing that does not make any sense to me about that explanation is that when I switched to the floaters (brand new) for the third session, I had perfect braking... no shudder for the next 6 hard sessions. Why would the PF90's only lay material down on the Brembos and not the floaters? > John C. DeMartino Product Manager QIAGEN Inc 28159 Ave Stanford Valencia, CA 91355 800-426-8157 x23507 j.demartino@us.qiagen.com