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#1. M3 5.0 #1 in GT - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 14:49:06 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol" <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: M3 5.0 #1 in GT M3 5.0 #1 in GT in the 24 hours of Daytona. Looking good so far. Speedvision is great. Bora
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Offset/Spacers question - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 14:51:11 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Offset/Spacers question That will look very, ummmmm, unique. Jim Peter Guagenti wrote: > Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 14:14:25 -0800 > From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> > Subject: Offset/Spacers question > > Is anyone on the list running 35 offset wheels (I think BBS, SSR, and others > run this offest) with 15mm spacers? Did this fit on front _and_ rear? > > Any advice is appreciated. > > -p > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#3. Re: [E36M3] rotor replacement - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 22:53:47 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rotor replacement <html><P>Sean,</P> <P>The first time removing the 16mm bolts for the caliper brackets was a royal PITA. In fact, I went out and purchased a new 16mm Craftsmen socket for the job, and ended up cracking the socket! But now it's a much easier task. Since I swap front rotors several times a year (for driver's schools), the bolts get turned fairly often.</P> <P>Also, for the record, I've removed and/or replaced many rotors on three different BMWs since 1989, and I've never had a problem removing the hex bolts. I still have the spare bolts that I bought in 1989, when I was cautioned to have them available since they "always" get messed up.</P> <P>-rb</P> <P>>Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 21:43:57 -0800 </P> <DIV></DIV>>From: "Sean Hester" <SEANH_RACE@HOTMAIL.COM> <DIV></DIV>>Subject: Re: [E36M3] rotor replacement <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>> >Im thinking of replacing my stock front rotors....Ive done pads before, so <DIV></DIV>> >I'm comfortable with that, but never rotors....How would your rate the <DIV></DIV>> >relative difficulty or gotchas attendant with rotor vs pad replacment? I'm <DIV></DIV>> >thinking of possible problems like not having enough room behind the rotors <DIV></DIV>> >to torque the calipur bracket bolts sufficiently, and things like that. <DIV></DIV>> >I'll be doing this in my condo garage on jack stands. thanks. <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>first off... you gotta remember that i'm lazy and hate being a mechanic... <DIV></DIV>>but... <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV>>i'd say rotors make the job 3 times harder and longer. it's simple on paper <DIV></DIV>>(only three more bolts) but execution is a different story. those bolts you <DIV></DIV>>talk about ARE a pain to deal with. you have to turn the wheel lock to lock <DIV></DIV>>to get at them. and you need to have a breaker bar (or a torque gun like <DIV></DIV>>lazy me) to get them out. it also pays to have a rubber mallet on hand as <DIV></DIV>>well. about 60% of the time, the rotor is fused to the hub, from all the <DIV></DIV>>heat. so even after you remove all the bolts you have to "encourage" the <DIV></DIV>>rotor to come off. of course you don't want to bang on the bearings too <DIV></DIV>>hard, and of course you don't want the rotor dropping on your toe once you <DIV></DIV>>"encourage" it enough. ;-) <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
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#4. Brake Pad Light - from Tobin Finley
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 18:08:36 -0500 From: Tobin Finley <tfinley@fdt.net> Subject: Brake Pad Light The brake lining light came on during last week's drivers school when I scrubbed the EBCs down to about 1/16 of an inch. I've since put new pads on, and made sure the sensors were installed correctly, however, the light stays on. Does it need to be reset somehow? If so, how? Thanks, Tobin '95 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Brake Pad Light - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:04:45 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Pad Light Did you check the one on the right rear wheel too? Also its possible that the one on the front left isn't REALLY plugged in all the way. Jim Tobin Finley wrote: > Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 18:08:36 -0500 > From: Tobin Finley <tfinley@fdt.net> > Subject: Brake Pad Light > > The brake lining light came on during last week's drivers school when > I scrubbed the EBCs down to about 1/16 of an inch. I've since put > new pads on, and made sure the sensors were installed correctly, > however, the light stays on. Does it need to be reset somehow? If > so, how? > > Thanks, > > Tobin > '95 M3 > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#6. Busted Radiator (again!) - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 17:07:38 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Busted Radiator (again!) Welp... The radiator I bought new last April has broken. The neck for the upper hose, of course. It leaked for about 4 days before it finally went. I thought it was the upper hose so I replaced it yesterday. Today the leak continued so I pulled it apart to find a busted neck. Anyway, I wanted to give everyone some data and tips to prevent this from happening. first, when (not if) your rad breaks, replace it with an all-aluminum unit from http://www.performanceradiator.com or some other place. $250 shipped. The factory plastic unit is like $350 or so. You can get plastic units for around $250 all over the place. If anyone knows where we can find a heavy duty 3-row unit, please share. If you do have to get a plastic-necked unit then you should use a fat clamp. The skinny ones (like the one I used) concentrate too much force. Also make sure you don't over tighten it. What's too tight? Well, you probably don't want it much tighter than you need to keep it from leaking. And, when you start to see leakage along from the neck, don't drive the car any more. It's just a matter of time. In this case the neck was completly severed and the hose was only being held in place by the Grace of God. Last time it blew it sprayed me with boiling water. So don't stand in front of a hissing neck.. I don't know if I'm fortunate that my rad has a lifetime warrenty or not. Maybe with a wide band clamp it will hold for a full year next time. Why do these things always happen the day before the first autoX of the year :-( ? Seeya, Matt __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. Brakes - from Patrick Dargan
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 20:50:12 -0500 From: "Patrick Dargan" <darg01@earthlink.net> Subject: Brakes "Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 10:58:18 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] the perennial track pad thread! ....and... if you're infinetly rich... porterfield told me they would make sets of pf-90s with clips for me. it was gonna increase the cost about 50%. (somethine about needing a different backing plate) this would make them cost about double what R4 pads cost, since pf-90s are more expensive already, so i didn't take them up on the offer. but they assured me they could do it if i ever wanted..." Funny, I thought the PF90 were Performance Friction, not Porterfield???
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#8. Re:changing email address - from JTJedi@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 21:28:03 EST From: JTJedi@aol.com Subject: Re:changing email address I am at a loss. I am trying to change my email address where I get this digest..does anyone know how? Jamie
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Offset/Spacers question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 21:47:09 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Offset/Spacers question Now Jim! That is not very helpful. <g> I have learned whenever I talk about wheel offset to look at Tire Rack's web site first. I've been wrong before on this list ;-) See: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm Let's see if I can get it straight this time. I DO KNOW that M3 wheels/tires tend to rub on the front strut (inside on front wheel) and rear fender lip (outside on rear wheel). Therefore, you need to move the front tires out and move the rear tires in. This is why you sometimes need spacers on the front wheels. EVERY M3 rim has 41 mm offset - 10 spoke, Contour, Forged, LTW, 7.5", 8.5", '95, '96+, .....every M3 rim. Peter - You said the rims you are looking at have 35 mm offset? This means that the tire will be 6 mm outboard (assuming the same rim width) vs. the stock M3 rim. This is good. Remember, M3 wheels tend to rub on the inside on the front so going with 35 mm offset rims will get you more clearance. You don't need spacers. Certainly not 15 mm spacers. Using them on a 35 mm offset rim would move the tire out 21 mm - almost 1 inch! You would be in danger of rubbing the front fender lip. What Jim was trying to say in his own sweet way was combining 15 mm spacers with 35 mm offset rims would make your M3 look like one of those 100-spoked, deep dished rim, low riders with pregnant tires. LOL Not too becoming for an M3. However, 35 mm offset rims are going to cause problems on the rear. You will likely get rubbing on the fender lip. You absolutely don't want spacers on the rear with 35 mm offset rims. Maybe somebody can speak up that has tried 35 mm offset rims on the rear. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re:changing email address - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 22:04:34 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re:changing email address Jamie, I think only Suzy Kraft can change your e-mail address. She is the list owner, administrator, moderator, The Boss, list mistress, whip purveyor, .... etc. LOL Remember we are all her invited guests. Send Suzy an e-mail with the particulars. suzy@bmw-m.net Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas