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#1. Radiator question... - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:34:34 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@INTERLIANT.COM> Subject: Radiator question... Fellow digesters, A local shop that sometimes does work on my car advised me that there was a small leak near the drainage bolt (the area is wet & which is very common on E36's according to them) & that the radiator needs to be replaced. I signed up for a drivers & safety school at a local track (April 1st) & I need to get it done by then in order to pass tech inspection. Has anybody here replaced their radiator on an E36 M3 & how hard was it? They quoted me $431 for the job & I would like to do it myself & save some $ if it isn't too hard. Thanks in advance, Luis BMWCCA member '95 M3 '88 M5
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#2. Anal Championship Series! - from Alan Taur
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:12:05 -0800 From: "Alan Taur" <alantaur@yahoo.com> Subject: Anal Championship Series! Hey, Scott. Thanks for the vote! (I'm feelin' the love from beantown). And for the rest of you...watch out! I haven't got my V1...YET. Anyway, I just finished putting up a little home page for my baby (M3, that is) Of course, like all things, it's a work in progress. Please let me know what you guys think of it. http://www.hghtransitional.com/public/95M3/index.htm I've been trying to get a cool domain name, but it seem all the short/non-cryptic ones are all gone. Thanks, fellers. -Alan _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Radiator question... - from Matt Henson
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:11:36 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Radiator question... Hi Luis, You mean the stupid plastic neck didn't break? Weird.. Anyway, if you want to order an all aluminum radiator then go search the archives. The procedure is really easy. I can do mine in about 15-20mins. You don't really need to take out the fan or shroud unless you also need to replace the water pump. If your water pump is the original from '95 then it should be replaced. Anyway, what I do is.. 1) Put car on stands to drain the radiator 2) Remove plastic cover over the rad/nose of car 3) Release radiator retainers on the top. They are two plastic arms that hold it in place. Just insert a flat screwdriver in the slot, where the arrow points. 4) Remove the 2 plastic thingies that hold the top of the shroud to the rad. They look like big rivets. You just pull out the middle piece and the whole thing comes out. 5) Remove upper and lower hoses from rad. Also remove the vent host, right above the upper hose. 6) Unplug the reservoir level sensor and coolant tempo sensor. 7. Lift shroud to separate from the rad. 8) Carefully remove old rad. 9) Clean up spilled fluids. Installation is reverse. YMMV. I'm not responsible if this procedure kills you, etc.. G'luck. -Matt > Has anybody here replaced their radiator on > an E36 M3 & how hard was it? They quoted > me $431 for the job & I would like to do it myself > & save some $ if it isn't too hard. > Thanks in advance, > > Luis > BMWCCA member __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#4. springs - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:37:40 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: springs > saying it is good, but the only chance they will have to pop out is both > wheels on the axle off the ground for a bit (more than just a quick hop. > Otherwise the antisway bars and shock rebound will keep them in place. I have H&R coilovers... part of being TUV certified is that the springs have to be under tension at full droop. anyway, on my old Eclipse GSX, I ran ground controls, with hypercoils tender springs. they were cheap, $80 for 4 2.5" springs. http://www.hypercoils.com -kit
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#5. Nice site (was: Anal Championship Series!) - from John Stoj
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:40:48 -0800 (PST) From: John Stoj <John_Stoj@excite.com> Subject: Nice site (was: Anal Championship Series!) Alan, Nice site. Great resolution on those pics and the car looks sweet. - John '97 M3 that doesn't look at all as good as Alan's '95 _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
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#6. Re:torque rotation - from WCRoswell@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 17:53:08 EST From: WCRoswell@aol.com Subject: Re:torque rotation >Year? Mileage? Tires? 98 M3/4 5-sp 23K michelin MXXX on front original , Toyo Proxys on rear (they really suck) >Or maybe we're discussing your lawnmower. Only if it is Tim Allen's
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Are you running short springs in the back? - from Ron Katona
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:02:25 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Are you running short springs in the back? Greg Cernosek wrote: > I think I understand the issues. If mine do fall out at full droop I will > definitely get the tender springs. I just realized something else too. Jay > at Ground Control told me that my rear shocks were shortened. I bet this > was to limit the travel so this wouldn't happen. We will see when I bolt > everything in tonight! Wish me luck! The shocks are shortened to match the drop of the ride height so they are closer to the center of their travel providing a more linear resistance and don't bottom out as easily. The springs falling out problem really isn't the reason for shortening the shocks... but it may help prevent that in the long run. The springs falling out when driving really isn't an issue. I have the GC kit with 6" 500 lb springs and they do fall out at full droop. I went to HELPER springs simply to make tire changes less of a hassle (did I remember to set the spring back in place before I started to lower the car?). Before I went to that I drove the car at many events with the short springs without a problem. Most E30 BMW SCCA IT cars also have rear springs that are loose at full droop and they aren't crashing in droves (OK, well maybe they are... but it's not because their springs are falling out). James Clay had it right; the sway bars and shocks will not let the suspension droop in a short time anything close to full like when you jack the car. If you're airborne long enough for these springs to fall out, the FAA will be citing you for not filing a flight plan. Helper springs have a paltry spring rate (you can easily compress them with your fingers) and compress flat to about 1/4". They are only there to prevent the springs from falling out at full droop. TENDER springs have a significant rate and keep the suspension loaded at all times if the main spring becomes unloaded. They can also be used to create a variable rate suspension setup (yuck). If you need anything, it's helpers... and that's just if you can't stand having to remember to check the springs for proper seating every times you let the jack down. I will say that the cost of the helpers was worth it to me since I change tires about 25 million times a year and got really sick of putting the springs back in place. -- Ron Katona
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Are you running short springs in the back? - from Jim Powell
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 15:16:31 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Are you running short springs in the back? Ok. This is getting to the point of being a disservice. Has anyone ever had a damper fail? Come on, show of hands. I mean it. If you lose the seal on a damper then the suspension will go to full droop in a hurry. Would everyone in California who does this please place a bumper sticker on their car for my benefit that says I CUT CORNERS KEEP BACK 500 FEET. I don't like driving next to people who don't do things right or bleed their brakes. If you can't keep your car at 100% I really don't want you around me at 100+ MPH. Jim
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#9. Re: Work in Progress - from Ron Katona
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:19:08 -0500 From: Ron Katona <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: Work in Progress Ron Buchalski wrote: > Just _suppose_ that I found a wide open stretch of deserted Interstate > highway, and decided to find out what the top speed of the car was. As I > _imagined_ watching the speedometer needle winding it's way around the dial, > it would pass 150 and approach 160. Now, if the needle stopped at 160, but > the car continued to accelerate until the rev limiter kicked in, how would I > determine the actual top speed? Reset the MAX SPEED indicator at the point > that the rev limiter kicked in? That would work, but I _imagine_ I' be too scared sh*tless at 160 to look down at the OBC to find the button to reset the speed indicator. But Ron, I don't think a US '95 M3 will get to 160 with the stock tire sizes and stock gearing unless the tires grow at speed. I think you're looking at ~157 at 7000 rpm. That's using Tire Rack's specs for a 235/40-17 MXX3 (848 rev's/mile), a 3.15 rear, and a 1:1 5th gear. Should red line at 157 ignoring tire growth. I'd say anything over 160 on the speedo was wishful indicating. -- Ron Katona
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Are you running short springs in the back? - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 16:07:26 -0800 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Are you running short springs in the back? Yeah! Rah! Jimbo! How about turn 8 just before the corkscrew at Laguna! Jo the ho ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Powell" <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 12:47 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Are you running short springs in the back? | Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 12:45:41 -0800 | From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> | Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Are you running short springs in the back? | | I can get my car airborne on Magic Mountain, Buttonwillow, at will. If I had a | car that let the springs fall out I think I'd look into replacing things or | inventing a safety strapping method. | | Anybody else want to contemplate the 'landing area of Magic Mountain with your | springs out? <shiver> | | Jim | | Vern Anderson wrote: | | Greg, | | > I have a GC c/o setup and my rear springs will only fall out if I jack up | > both rear wheels (lift, two jackstands, etc.). Jacking up one side of the | > car to put wheels on with a regular floor jack has never caused them to | > move. The suspension just doesn't droop enough with only one wheel off the | > ground to allow the spring to move. Of course, as soon as you lift the | > other side off and get both rear wheels airborne, both springs flop out of | > place immediately. I just gently place them back right before letting the | > car down and make sure they are correct before I put all of the weight on. | > A small hassle, but not a huge one. As far as driving, there is absolutely | > no way they would ever come out while in motion unless you do lots of | > Bullit-type driving in San Fran (which would be kinda rough on the bottom of | > an M3....) | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message. | ************************************************************* | | |