E36M3 #963

Monday, February 19, 2001 21:34:13

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools - from Andrew E. Kalman
#2. Re: [E36M3] Ron S. SS - from NickG
#3. Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? - from Sean Hester
#4. Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? - from Andrew E. Kalman
#5. Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? - from Tom Tice
#6. Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools - from Donna Seeley
#7. RE: [E36M3] Help Needed => BMW Batteries - from Tom Tice
#8. Re: [E36M3] Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? - from Chris Teague
#9. Batteries - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
#10. Re: [E36M3] Batteries - from Jim Powell

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:56:25 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools Re: >I'm in the process of mapping out all my driving schools for 2001, >but I have a guilty feeling in my gut. I've currently got auto >insurance with Allstate. I'm considering calling my agent to make >sure that driving schools are covered -- but I'm afraid I already >know the answer. You may want to search the archives via the search function's at Suzy's site http://www.bmw-m.net. I think Bob Tunnell "spoke" at length about this issue ... -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Ron S. SS - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:12:54 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ron S. SS > Ok so I really need to dump the crappy UUC SS (flame on) because the > vibration is driving me nuts. No flame intended, but why would the UUC SS cause extra vibration? I've had one installed for I don't know how long, and haven't noticed any increase in vibration. What makes the RonS SS any different/better? Nick '95 M3 turbo

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:12:50 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? >Howdy fellow listers, > >Does anyone out there ride a motorcycle as well? > >Sorry for the odd question, I've never purchased a helmet before and I've >got my first driver's school coming up in April. I'm wondering if there are >any disadvantages to buying a motorcycle helmet to use with my car at >driver's schools as well as on the bike (if I ever get around to buying a >bike!) What are the inherent differences between helmets used for autos and >motorcycles? Helmets aren't cheap, if I can get away with only buying one, >I'd be a happy camper ;) > >Hope it's warm wherever you are, i've heard that motorcycle helmets were made differently then car helmets becuase of the different kinds of collisions you're likely to encounter on a motorcycle then in a car. (falling and dragging your head, vs having your head bang off a steering wheel or roll cage bar. car helmets are also fire resistant while motorcycle helmets aren't. so... to "as safe as possible" it would be better to have one for each use. second choice would be to buy one of the car ones (for the fire protection) and double it for motorcycle use. last choice is to use a motorcycle helmet for car racing. (some organizations won't even allow this, but most do) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:01:10 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Helmet suggestions? Re: >Sorry for the odd question, I've never purchased a helmet before and I've >got my first driver's school coming up in April. I'm wondering if there are >any disadvantages to buying a motorcycle helmet to use with my car at >driver's schools as well as on the bike (if I ever get around to buying a >bike!) What are the inherent differences between helmets used for autos and >motorcycles? Helmets aren't cheap, if I can get away with only buying one, >I'd be a happy camper ;) Most "car groups" will NOT allow motorcycle helmets -- they're tested to different standards. So if you want to drive cars on-track, you're gonna have to get a car racing helmet. I don't know how appropriate car helmets are for motorcycle use ... but if there is a crossover, I'd go with an Arai. I have 3 Bell Helmets myself, but many people seems to think that the Arai ones are the cat's meow. Regards, -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#5. Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? - from Tom Tice
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:45:48 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? I am contemplating ordering new track tires and have a question for the group. Does anyone have experience with either the Kuhmo Victoracer in a 225/45/17 or the Yoko 032 in a 235/40/17 on the stock (1998) Contour II wheels which are staggered 7.5 inch front and 8.5 inch in the rear? I am concerned about the 8.5 inch rims being too wide for a 225 on the Kuhmos and the 7.5 inch rim not being wide enough on the 235 Yokos. Any experience, thoughts or concerns would be appreciated. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools - from Donna Seeley
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:46:30 -0800 From: Donna Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools I talked to my Farmer's agent when I first started going to CCA schools with my daily driver.* I kept stressing that it was a school and told him about passing zones, no timing allowed, and in-car instruction. The timing was the important part to him, and he said I would probably be covered. Then he asked about a 'diploma.' Umm...well... Then the Sin City chapter gave me one at my third school! *The track car has liability coverage only. I'm not going to risk coverage on my commuter for it. Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido" 95 330isA, super-commuter > > Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:12:20 -0800 > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Insurance for Driving Schools > >> I have State Farm, and here in Texas we're covered at a driving school. > > i have state farm and my agent told me i wasn't covered. > > <snip> > it depends. > > i'd say i got about 20 "yes you are covered"s. about 21 "no you're not > covered"s and about 10 "i have no idea"s. > > i know one state farm person that did get covered for a driver school > accident and one that did NOT. >

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#7. RE: [E36M3] Help Needed => BMW Batteries - from Tom Tice
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:56:58 -0500 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help Needed => BMW Batteries FWIW, I have gotten 6+ years out of the original BMW batteries in the past. I've rarely ever gotten more than 3 years out of any aftermarket battery (including Sears, Interstate, and other less reputable ones). Admittedly this is hardly scientific evidence but consider the following: The husband of a co-worker actually works for Douglas Battery here in NC and claims that when they won the BMW contract they had to significantly tighten many of their manufacturing tolerances to build batteries that were acceptable to BMW. In fact beyond what they thought was possible - until they tried. Is there any real correlation? I don't really know but I will at least consider BMW batteries in the future - I am typically too cheap to go that route (given the price difference) but the hassle of batteries going bad twice as often has me thinking twice. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 > > > In a message dated 2/19/01 1:48:46 AM, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: > > >...Buy a new battery ASAP. Sounds like all you need. I assume it is the > > > >original. You got good usage out of it if it lasted 4+ years. > I recommend > > > >going to the dealer and buying the BMW battery. It fits best. I know > >some > >other guys have bought other batteries. But I did not think the price > > > >difference was that great. I paid $115 with BMW CCA discount. Cheapest > >I > >could find was $80 aftermarket. Not worth $35 to me. > > > >Lowell Seaton > >'95 M3 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:01:54 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? Tim, I have a 97 M3/4 with the 7.5/8.5 inch wheels. I have run the 225/45 Kumhos, but I found that the 245/45 Kumho has more grip that the 225, so I run the 245's all the way around. They actually fit fine on the 7.5" wheels, the sidewalls don't look bulged. I know someone who even runs the 255/40 Kumho on the 7.5" wheel. I do belive the Kumho will be the faster tire for autocross/track use. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 5:53 PM Subject: [E36M3] Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? > Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:45:48 -0500 > From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> > Subject: Track Tires on Staggered Wheels? > > I am contemplating ordering new track tires and have a question for the > group. > > Does anyone have experience with either the > > Kuhmo Victoracer in a 225/45/17 > > or the > > Yoko 032 in a 235/40/17 > > on the stock (1998) Contour II wheels which are staggered 7.5 inch front and > 8.5 inch in the rear? > > I am concerned about the 8.5 inch rims being too wide for a 225 on the > Kuhmos and the 7.5 inch rim not being wide enough on the 235 Yokos. > > Any experience, thoughts or concerns would be appreciated. > > Tom Tice > '98 M3/4 > '99 540/6 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#9. Batteries - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 22:21:25 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Batteries Martin, Thanks for your comments. I'm not an electrical engineer so my knowledge of automotive batteries runs out quick. I originally wanted to get a cheap maintenance free battery because I dislike adding water to my battery every 6 months. But I think none other than J'A'P' said a "maintenance free" battery is a bad idea. I found a web site that described automotive batteries in a sensible fashion to me. Would some of you electrical engineers check it out and see if the guy is all wet or not? http://www.landiss.com/battery.htm This guy says there are 3 broad types of automotive batteries - 1) lead/antimony 2) lead/calcium and 3) lead/antimony/calcium. The first type is the one originally supplied in the M3. The last two are "maintenance free" batteries. Apparently the different types of batteries need to be recharged at different voltages. The lead/antimony needs about 13.8-14.0 V, lead/calcium needs 14.8 V, and lead/antimony/calcium needs 14.3-14.8 V. I'm assuming BMW uses a 13.8 V alternator. Supposedly it is not good to recharge a "maintenance free" battery at the lower 13.8 V so........ that led me to buy another "add water every 6 months" battery. I bought my battery about 1.5 years ago. There may be a larger selection of lead/antimony batteries to choose from now, but back then here in Dallas I could not find another one. I must have driven 200 miles and spent $100 looking for a "cheaper" replacement battery. Some times it doesn't pay to be cheap LOL I found a group 49 battery from Interstate Batteries that might have fit. It had a lot more CCA than the stock Douglas battery. However, the vent tube was on the front instead of the side. Interstate did provide this extension so you could run the tube up and over the battery but my analness trait didn't like that solution. I then found a group 48 battery from Battery Plus. It had the right vent location but it was just 10 CCA less than the OEM M3 battery. Battery Plus listed a group 49 battery which would have fit and had much more CCA than the OEM battery but it was not available in Dallas. Apparently Battery Plus did not have enough demand for it here in the south. Our winters are not that cold. I'm sure the slightly lower CCA battery would have worked fine for me. The Interstate battery was about the same price as the BMW battery with club discount. The Battery Plus battery (made by GNB I think) was quite a bit cheaper - about $85. Oh! I called all three of the dealers in the Dallas area. The price ranged from $115 to $180!! The best price was the closest dealer to me. I just wish I had started there. :-) You are correct. There are three hold down locations for the battery. But I would like to see somebody try to use the largest setting. You would have to paper thin fingers! I think most of the group 48 batteries would probably use the smallest hold down. The OE group 91 uses the middle position. This was the other reason I chose the BMW battery. I was assured it would bolt down tight. I've done BMW CCA driving schools. They always check to see if the battery is secured. You can be denied on the track if your battery is loose. They have always allowed my stock hold down. I did not want to bother jury rigging a hold down for a different sized battery. It is one less thing to worry about when I go to driving schools. Where did you buy your battery? I'm sure others would like to have an alternative. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Batteries - from Jim Powell
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Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:30:38 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Batteries It's nice to know at least someone listens to the 1/4 millski education I received that your tax dollars paid for. Jim LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > Martin, > > Thanks for your comments. I'm not an electrical engineer so my knowledge of > automotive batteries runs out quick. I originally wanted to get a cheap > maintenance free battery because I dislike adding water to my battery every 6 > months. But I think none other than J'A'P' said a "maintenance free" battery > is a bad idea.

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