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#1. Re: [E36M3] HELP! Need Part Number. - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 12:43:59 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! Need Part Number. It should also be noted that the air conditioning control unit is made of two parts: a face plate and a black box. Ben gave the part numbers for the face plate. If your black box is dead: 64 11 8 379 521 for vehicles with automatic air flow control: 64 11 8 378 466 There's also: 64 11 8 378 467 from 3/95 - 04/97 for vehicles with automatic air flow control: 64 11 8 361 836 from 3/95 - 04/97 These show up with an 'AE' flag ....not sure what it means. HTH, Chester --- Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks <ben@shortshifter.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:10:38 -0500 > From: "Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks" <ben@shortshifter.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! Need Part Number. > > there are two part numbers... > > 64 11 8 361 832 from 3/95 > > for vehicles with automatic air flow control: > > 64 11 8 370 477 from 3/95 > > hope this helps. > > ben > ------------------------------------------- > ben liaw - ben@shortshifter.com > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 11:56:34 US/Pacific > > From: peter@guagenti.com > > Subject: HELP! Need Part Number. > > > > My digital heating/AC controller is dead, and I need a part number for > the > > unit. I was hoping someone with the electronic parts catalog might be > > able to help me out. > > > > Here is a link to a photograph: > > > > http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/parts/parts_images/tc31.jpg > > > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > > > -peterg > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------------------ > > This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. > > http://www.hispeed.com > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#2. Re: [E36M3] HELP! Need Part Number. - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 12:46:11 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HELP! Need Part Number. I think it has more to do with the round knobs on the early models versus the more slick digital/buttons one found on the later models. Just a guess. Chester --- peter@guagenti.com wrote: > Are these two different control units, or two pieces that come together? I > know the car has an "auto" temp button on the control unit, but I'm unsure > of what you mean by automatic air flow control. > > > there are two part numbers... > <SNIP> > > hope this helps. > > It helps a lot. > > -p > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. > http://www.hispeed.com > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#3. Re: anyone buy rest of cage after installing TC Kline rollbar? - from Dan Snyder
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 13:14:19 -0800 From: "Dan Snyder" <m3ltw@msn.com> Subject: Re: anyone buy rest of cage after installing TC Kline rollbar? > Dave Spragg wrote: > > I think I want to complete the TC Kline bolt in setup in my 1992 318is (now > with 95 M3 motor, dash, suspension, interior, and just about everything > else). I am looking for advice on the amount of destruction I need to do to > the interior to accomplish this as well as some other info. First, buy a copy of SCCA's General Competition Rules (GCR-$25 at 303-694-7222), as it outlines all of the rules and limitations for each class, including what you can and CANNOT remove. With the M3 motor, you will have a hard time finding a class to compete in (where you won't be racing against GT cars or worse). In building a car, it is vital to determine the classification you intend to race in. ITS would be perfect for a 325 motor (and it is a lot cheaper to fix or replace <$2k used), but I just don't know about M3s (other than World Challenge!). A standard TC cage won't require much more interior removal other than spots to bolt the cage to the floor/firewall. But, it depends if you want the bars in the way of your legs/feet or passing through the dash! (racing is a world of trade-offs) > Does this cage meet BMW CCA Club Racing specs for this year? Yes, their rules are pretty simple, so long as you follow the minimum tube sizes. > Does this cage meet SCCA road racing specs for this year? Again, depends on the class, but you should. Tube size is determined by car weight (which is determined/fixed by class---amazing how this keeps coming up!). > (note... I don't know classes well but the supercharger will be out of the > car for racing) If you intend to just do BWM CR, then you could leave it in and have fun with the big guys (all Euro motored M3s), otherwise you will be classified as an M3 (at best). > Any other info I should know? I am supposing this is not as good a solution > as a several thousand dollar German DTM copy welded in cage safety wise but > anything else? Actually, a DTM cage might be much worse (other than being very cool), as their tube sizes are often smaller than ours, but they have more tubes and contact points (which is the "rub" so to speak). If you are willing to sacrifice your door panel/window, I would HIGHLY recommend installing NASCAR style door beams for added safety.
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#4. Re: Question on Yok A032 tire rotation - from JEFFHARKER@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:38:36 EST From: JEFFHARKER@aol.com Subject: Re: Question on Yok A032 tire rotation I've run that way myself without discernible problems. Neil, however is the expert in how the handle in wet grass. <G> --jeff Whozur Chapter Neil posts: << According to the Yoke factory rep I spoke to at Gateway Tech a couple of years ago it's perfectly OK to reverse the A032R direction in the dry. I've run them that way many times without ill effect. >>
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#5. Re: SSR Comps - from Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:38:25 -0600 From: Paul_Kopecki@transwestern.net Subject: Re: SSR Comps A couple of days ago, there was a post from someone who had a love jones for the SSR Comps. (Was it Powell?) Could that person get back to me privately? PK
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#6. Re: anyone buy rest of cage after installing TC Kline rollbar? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 17:32:41 -0500 From: Vern Anderson <VAnderson@IVW.com> Subject: Re: anyone buy rest of cage after installing TC Kline rollbar? Dave, I've been looking at doing exactly the same thing. In December and January I spoke at length to Brian at TCKline (who is no longer there, so I need to reconfirm this info with TC and others), and he assured me many times that their cage attachment passes specs for both organizations. I also asked him about the interior and he told me no modifications would be needed to my 98 M3 coupe. I saw an M3 coupe (I forget who's it was) at Mid-Ohio last fall at a BMWCCA school that had a TCKline bar and cage, and it required no interior mods (other than cutting the carpet and drilling holes for the two front base plates). I'll be following any public replies you get to your post closely as I have the same question/concern; any first hand info you receive (unlike the speculation I just wrote) would be helpful. Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 15:23:47 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> Subject: anyone buy rest of cage after installing TC Kline rollbar? I think I want to complete the TC Kline bolt in setup in my 1992 318is (now with 95 M3 motor, dash, suspension, interior, and just about everything else). I am looking for advice on the amount of destruction I need to do to the interior to accomplish this as well as some other info. Does this cage meet BMW CCA Club Racing specs for this year? Does this cage meet SCCA road racing specs for this year? (note... I don't know classes well but the supercharger will be out of the car for racing) Any other info I should know? I am supposing this is not as good a solution as a several thousand dollar German DTM copy welded in cage safety wise but anything else? Thanks, Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com Natick, MA 99 M3 Sharked 92 330is Sharked and Supercharged > Vernon L. Anderson > Product Manager > Internet Venture Works > Office: (412) 804-2116 > Cell: (412) 716-3126 > Fax: (801) 881-2661 > vanderson@ivw.com >
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#7. Re: Question on Yok A032 tire rotation - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 17:32:34 -0500 From: Vern Anderson <VAnderson@IVW.com> Subject: Re: Question on Yok A032 tire rotation I've run through two sets of these things, running them both directions (with no ill effects). Unfortunately, they make just as much noise in either direction. The egg-yoko's are an incredibly noisy tire. I don't know how some people run them on the street. I was at a Nelson Fundayz this past fall and the only two BMW's were mine and a guy's white 540i, both of us running AO32R's. A bunch of folks were at the edge of the paddock at turn 12 and were trying to figure out what the loud whining noise was emanating from our cars. They all (without asking us) decided it was something in the rear diffs of our cars and asked us later if there was a problem. We couldn't figure out what they were talking about until I realized it must be the tires. I later listened to the guy's 540i and from the paddock I could hear his car entering the kink, hundreds of yards away. I'm installing a different exhaust soon, so this year my car will sound more like a race car and less like a turbine. Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 with REALLY LOUD TRACK TIRES >-------------------- 3 -------------------- >Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:24:59 -0800 >From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Question on Yok A032 tire rotation > >>According to the Yoke factory rep I spoke to at Gateway Tech a couple of >>years ago it's perfectly OK to reverse the A032R direction in the dry. I've >>run them that way many times without ill effect. > >do they make more noise backwards? or better yet, do they make LESS? >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com >
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#8. Brake Shudder explained - from Anthony Le
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Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 16:56:15 -0600 From: Anthony Le <anthony.le@wcom.com> Subject: Brake Shudder explained All, I got this from the NSX list. Some very interesting reading about brake shudder. --- anthony ///M3 To: NSXTECH list <NSX-TECH@LISTSERV.NSX.NET> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 5:15 PM Subject: Brake Shudder ( high speed judder) explained All, Back in December I asked the question: What is the physical process taking place during brake shudder? There were several replies, mostly of the "I think it's.... but I don't know for sure" variety. My curiosity was motivated by the fact that I had experienced tremendous brake shudder when decelerating from over 135 down to 50 at the end of the front straight at Firebird Raceway and yet I never actually *lost* my brakes. Through the List I was put in touch with an individual that is a mechanical engineer employed by the #1 producer of brakes in Japan, and of OEM brake pads in the States. He was here in Phoenix in January doing brake tests with General Motors and I had the opportunity to have dinner with him. We spent most of the evening discussing all the technical/engineering aspects of brakes and he debunked a lot of the "urban legends" regarding brake shudder. I also was able to convince him to write an explanation of the phenomenon which he agreed to do under one condition: That I do not give out his contact info as "I do not want to be bombarded with rebuttals or requests for more information!" Below is his write-up. Perhaps Lud can add it to the FAQ Bill High Speed Braking Judder (Shudder) Causes: Brakes are essentially devices that convert kinetic energy into heat energy. Since kinetic energy increases as a square of velocity, higher speed = much higher heat. Also because of this, the heat energy involved in a deceleration from 100 to 80 is as high as slowing from 60 to zero. The change in kinetic energy difference between 100 and 80 miles an hour is the same, no matter how quickly you slow down. Therefore, ignoring in-stop cooling, the amount of heat generated is not proportional to deceleration rate, but to initial and final braking speeds. This is why judder is a complaint for both moderate and threshold brakers if they are going fast enough. Most common mechanism for the disturbance: A higher order (approximately 8-10 per rev.) disturbance caused by regularly spaced "hot spots" on the brake rotor. These hot spots expand (thicken) the rotor locally, causing brake torque pulsations. It is an unstable situation, which gets worse as the hot spots get hotter and expand further. When the brake rotor cools, the hot spots go away, and so does the problem. Possible Remedies: Increase rotor thermal mass. Bigger rotors can handle more heat before the unstable mode can begin. Rotors with thicker "plates" (the two solid iron friction areas separated by the rotor vanes) are also helpful. Increased cooling to the brakes also helps, because it lowers the initial temperature at the start of braking and therefore also the maximum temperature. What doesn't work: "Turning" the rotors. The most likely mechanism for the problem is not tied to rotor run-out. If rotor runout is an issue, shudder will also be apparent at much lower speed, and with cool brakes. Note: as a general maintenance tip, do not have your rotors turned when brake pads are replaced unless you have low speed, cool brake shudder, scored (deeply scratched) rotor friction faces, or some other specific problem. The machining equipment at speed or brake repair shops is not nearly as accurate as that used in the original manufacture of a rotor, so you may be paying money to create a problem where there wasn't one before. Also, cross-drilling of rotors is intended primarily to vent the gases released during brake fade, therefore improving brake effectiveness in the fade condition. This is not the same as a high-speed judder condition, and therefore is not a path to solve this issue. Note that both turning rotors and cross-drilling them also reduce rotor mass, which is not directionally correct. Also note that most real race cars don't run cross-drilled rotors. Secondary possible cause: Breakdown of the raw materials in the brake pad at very high temperatures, leading to an uneven and thick (relatively speaking: it's still measured in microns) film deposit on the rotor. This film may or may not be visible. The solution in this case is to find a brake pad designed for higher temperature operation. One possible avenue is a pad homologated for sale in Europe (where high speed driving is much more common) on your vehicle. European requirements for certification of aftermarket brake pads are far higher than U.S. aftermarket standards. The quality of U.S. aftermarket pads is generally very poor compared with original equipment. ------------------------------
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#9. Re: HELP! Need Part Number - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 18:21:55 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: HELP! Need Part Number > My digital heating/AC controller is dead, and I need a part number for the > unit. I was hoping someone with the electronic parts catalog might be > able to help me out. > Here is a link to a photograph: > http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/parts/parts_images/tc31.jpg Peter, The Parts CD shows an uncoded remanufactured automatic A/C control unit as follows: 3/95-4/97 P/N 64 11 8 361 836 4/97 on 64 11 8 378 466 Some caveats: - I have no info on whether these are interchangeable or not. - My CD only covers through production year 98. - Since this part is stated as remanufactured, is its P/N different from original equipment? - Use of the word "uncoded" makes me wonder what happens if you install a used unit from another car. - The P/Ns above are for the control unit box alone, which doesn't include a faceplate, P/N 64 11 8 370 477. Regards, Neil 96 M3
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#10. OT post >> Speedvision will carry F1 - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:00:39 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: OT post >> Speedvision will carry F1 Speedvision will broadcast live and at prime time the F1 races and qualifying this year! Woo Hoo! Mike '95 M3 drive it like you just stole it!