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#1. Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC Area - from Osbcso@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:29:50 EST From: Osbcso@aol.com Subject: Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC Area I have a 2000 M Roadster and want to install, in a stealth location, a radar detector. I received my first and last ticket in Virginia for posession of a radar detector (it must be easier to see in the M Roadster as opposed to my 95 M3). Thinking about Valentine One but would like to hear anyone's suggestions out there. I would want it installed in a way that it can be easily removed and put in my next vehicle. Please e-mail me directly. Thanks...Chris Osborne BMWCCA #92573
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 20:41:47 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC Area Have you thought of one of the built-in radar detectors such as K40 or the new Passport one? They may be the stealthiest. Bora > From: Osbcso@aol.com > Reply-To: Osbcso@aol.com > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 22:32:57 -0600 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC Area > > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:29:50 EST > From: Osbcso@aol.com > Subject: Hard Wire Radar Detector Installers in Washington, DC Area > > I have a 2000 M Roadster and want to install, in a stealth location, a > radar > detector. I received my first and last ticket in Virginia for posession > of a > radar detector (it must be easier to see in the M Roadster as opposed to > my > 95 M3). > > Thinking about Valentine One but would like to hear anyone's suggestions > out > there. I would want it installed in a way that it can be easily removed > and > put in my next vehicle. > > Please e-mail me directly. > > Thanks...Chris Osborne > BMWCCA #92573 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#3. Eibachs are on...Oh Yeah!!!! - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 00:30:58 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Eibachs are on...Oh Yeah!!!! Well, picked up my M3 from the dealer this morning after having the Eibach sway bars installed (went soft/soft). Seat of the pants tells me, less lean over stock with just a little more road feel over bumps. First opinion is this is very, very good. Once the winter snow tires come off and autox season starts up, I'll know for sure. My setup is pretty simple but effective as a compromise for daily driver / semiserious autox'er. X-brace, JTD front strut brace, now Eibach sways, and (15mm H&R spacers up front, 17x 8 SSR Integral with Kumho 245/45/17 all around...for autoxing). This setup is not as good as Bora's, but it costs less ;-)) and it's all in what you want. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 #13 BSP 2001
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Ride Height with Dinan Stage III - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 22:50:09 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ride Height with Dinan Stage III Thanks This is what I thought they did. Bora > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Reply-To: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:32:57 -0600 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ride Height with Dinan Stage III > > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 18:32:36 -0800 > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ride Height with Dinan Stage III > > As I recall, you have a 95. On 95's, Dinan camber plates raised the front > 1.5" -- I have 97 Dinan Stage 3, but its measurements are useless for your > purposes due to different front suspension geometry (but I also have the > camber plates) and 18" wheels. > > Lew Becker >> -------------------- 6 -------------------- >> Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 09:24:52 -0800 >> From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> >> Subject: Ride Height with Dinan Stage III >> >> I measured the ride height as described in Bentley manual from the lower > lip >> of the wheel to the fender lip on top and arrived at 23.5 inches front > and >> 21.5 inches in the back. >> > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#5. Re: removing pilot sports - from Guillermo Molina
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 07:23:02 -0500 From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> Subject: Re: removing pilot sports I'll second Ben Liaw's recommendation for Precision Tire and Wheel in Ridgewood, NJ. EXPERT service at a very reasonable price. Scott's prices are close to the Tire Rack's and you have the benefit of not lugging the tires around for mounting and they put them on the car for you (with a manual torque wrench). Bill Molina 95 M3 88 M3 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] removing pilot sports - from Jonathan Caldito
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 09:40:22 -0500 From: "Jonathan Caldito" <jonnym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] removing pilot sports Most BMW service depts. should have a Hunter tire machine. Any tire can be dismounted and mounted on by a skilled person but it also helps to have a good machine, and a strong body! I've done a few BMW OE 17in rims motorsport and non motorsport but the greatest challenge I had were those 18in rims M Parallel Double Spoke used on the E39 7-series. It had the Michelin Pilot SX and customer wanted the Michelin Pilot Sports Installed. It took me almost 2 hours to do the whole job with balancing. I was so dead tired aftewards. Removing it was the hardest part. Installing it is cake but little effort. I agree with Nick about not using silicon lube. I used it once but a tech caught me telling me that it doesn't dry up and if a person brakes hard, the rim will stop but not the tires! So I dismounted that tire, dried it up, and used the tire lube (or what was left of it). _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#7. Re: what just happened? - from tristar500@mac.com
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 08:51:31 -0600 From: "tristar500@mac.com" <tristar500@mac.com> Subject: Re: what just happened? Kind of sounds like what my '96 did when the crank position sensor went bad. It only did it one time and I took it to the dealer 2 days later. Fine since. Dave > From: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Reply-To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:42:58 -0600 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] E36M3 #1022 > > Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 12:12:05 -0800 (PST) > From: Chris Casey <ccasey1@yahoo.com> > Subject: what just happened? > > > Hi Group, > > I need some suggestions as to what just happened to my > car. > > I started it up to drive home from work, let it warm > up a bit, and then enjoyed the few curves that I > encountered before getting on the highway. As I began > to pull away from the last stoplight before the > entrance, the car stalled. So I started it again, and > it stalled again. After starting it again, I was able > to finally get moving, but I noticed that acceleration > was way, way down. The engine sounded quieter, and > under even light acceleration there was a shudder > throughout the entire car. > > I limped home, shut it down for a few seconds, and > then started it back up, and things appear (and sound > and feel) to be back to normal. > > I could smell light gasoline fumes inside the cabin. > > So, anybody with any ideas? > > Thanks, > Chris > > 99 M3, 5 spd, 28000 miles > due for next inspection soon
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#8. Speaker Wiring - from Milotaks1@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 10:11:58 EST From: Milotaks1@aol.com Subject: Speaker Wiring I am trying to run a RCA wire from the face of my car to the trunk. If anyone has done this before themselves, could you please email me with some ideas because I spent a solid 4 hrs yesterday and just couldn't get the wires through. Any help would be appreciated. THanks Milo 95 M3 - with crossed drilles rotors and metalmaster pads that are still being broken in
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#9. M rim tire removal...was: removing pilot sports - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 10:17:22 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: M rim tire removal...was: removing pilot sports The primary reason so many tire installers are having trouble removing tires off of M wheels (and not other 17" rims) is because BMW designed the rim bead differently. Instead of being symmetric all the way around the rim, the bead changes position as it goes around. For example, at one point, the peak of the seat will be 1" away from the rim's edge, while 180 degrees around, the seat's peak will be 1.75" away from the rim's edge. The purpose of this is to keep the tire mounted on the rim during a high-speed loss of air pressure. This is why BMW requires the latest and greatest Hunter tire machine to dismount and mount tires on these wheels. Its big nylon rollers slowly press off the tire from this special seat. Old style tire machines put all their force on one part of the tire, trying to break off the bead one spot at a time. This causes the tire to stretch too much, making removal difficult. I'm sure you can all agree that the sidewall on 17" 40-series tires doesn't have much room to stretch. Now, it is possible for an old-style machine to remove tires from these wheels. There is a trick to it though. The bead has to be broken starting at a certain spot on the rim, to minimize how much the tire needs to stretch. If anybody's interested, I can look up this information and send it out. Just drop me an email. Nick '95 M3 turbo ps. by the sound of it, my local dealer has very reasonable rates for tire mounting and balancing. The total cost is $88 for 4 wheels, and they use the correct Hunter machines. > Daniel, he couldnt REMOVE it! Although he uses good equipment, he thinks > the only way hed be able to do it is to get a bigger/stronger machine! It > handles 17" tires, but wasnt strong enough to remove the bead from the > rim...He can do OTHER low prof. 17" tire/wheel combos, but not pilot sports > on our M3 rims for some reason. Its too bad, cause hes an autocrosser and > the owner of the srvc franchise at a near by citgo station, and where I take > my car if I dont want to use the dealer for something. Now I'll have to > somehow track down an unknown guy, always a tramatic experience for me!! > > _____________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3 <25000 mi Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals; > X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Speaker Wiring - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 07:19:28 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Speaker Wiring People it really helps to give some details... Face? Do you mean all the way to the grill? Also, where are you stuck at? Do you have fold down rear seats? Does the wire have to run down one side or the other? But especially, where couldn't you get through? I'll bet that you spent 4 hours in frustration because you WOULDN'T spend 1 hour in prep. If you take the trunk liner out including the side pieces, you'll see where BMW runs all of their wiring. On the other hand, if you just try shoving it through what looks like holes, you'll never figure it out. Also, it's easier to pull wire than push it through some passages. Use a coathanger or other semi-stiff wire and push it through backwards and tape the wire you want to route to it and pull it back through. Then you need to pull the door thrresholds and route the wire along them. Be careful, the clips break easily. I can get them out now with no problem but broke 4 the first time. They're cheap and usually in stock. But now it's Sunday :( Jim Milotaks1@aol.com wrote: > I am trying to run a RCA wire from the face of my car to the trunk. If > anyone has done this before themselves, could you please email me with some > ideas because I spent a solid 4 hrs yesterday and just couldn't get the wires > through. Any help would be appreciated. THanks