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#1. Re: what just happened? - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 11:46:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: what just happened? on 3/3/01 9:42 PM, Chris Casey <ccasey1@yahoo.com> wrote: > As I began to pull away from the last stoplight before the entrance, the car > stalled. So I started it again, and it stalled again. After starting it > again, I was able to finally get moving, but I noticed that acceleration was > way, way down. The engine sounded quieter, and under even light acceleration > there was a shudder throughout the entire car. > I limped home, shut it down for a few seconds, and then started it back up, > and things appear (and sound and feel) to be back to normal. > I could smell light gasoline fumes inside the cabin. > Thanks, Chris > 99 M3, 5 spd, 28000 miles due for next inspection soon Although it may not be the only possibility, these are classic symptoms of the crank position sensor going bad. Take the car in right away, you're under warranty anyway. Neil 96 M3 - BTDT
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#2. Speaker Wiring - from Paul Elliott
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 12:35:02 -0500 From: "Paul Elliott" <pelliott@rcn.com> Subject: Speaker Wiring >>am trying to run a RCA wire from the face of my car to the trunk. If anyone has done this before themselves, could you please email me with some ideas because I spent a solid 4 hrs yesterday and just couldn't get the wires through. << The best way is first take out the sunglass holder and the part that holds the ashtray, to gain access to the rca cable coming from the back of the HU. Snake them out to beneath teh center console by where your right foot rests near the throttle. Then, just run the wires along the console, on the outside, then just push them out of site through the bottom on the sides. Removing the console is a pain in the ass and is not needed. Lift out the rear ash tray, and unscrew the screw(s) underneath...This will allow you to lift up on the rear of the console, which you need to do to work with the wires....This is where you push them under the carpet, to grab under the rear driver side carpet. The idea is to take out the rear seat, then lift up on the rear of the carpet enough so that you can reach way under and grab hold of the wires, which youve snaked down under the carpet from under the rear console ash tray area. Once you grab them its a snap. Just pull them into the under rear seat area, pull the seat back forward, and remove the rear side bolster, cause thats where youre going to snake the wires into the trunk. Removing the rear seat bottom is a snap. Just pull it up and when you are done, put it back in. No screws or anything to deal with. Run the wires to the trunk along the inside of the trunk sidewall. At the point where I run the wires under the carpet, it is underneath the rear part of the console (below the ashtray). If you stick your fingers up that little gap on the bottom (it is a squeeze), you should be able to feel where there is a break in the carpet. Put the wires below the carpet there and lift up the carpet from the rear. Reach your hand under the carpet until you can reach the wires. If you can not find the break in the carpet, use an exacto knife and cut a small hole in your carpet below the ashtray in the back of the console. It sounds bad, but it is not visible and will not affect the resale value of the car. You should be able to find it, though. Good luck. _____________________ Paul Elliott '99 Alpine White M3 <25000 mi Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals; X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio
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#3. Re: M3 battery - from GregKono@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 12:53:54 EST From: GregKono@aol.com Subject: Re: M3 battery My battery (97 M3/4) has died. Is the only option the dealer for a new one?....thanks, Greg in Mi.
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#4. suspension - 1995 M3 - from Gary A. Preece
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 13:13:44 -0500 From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> Subject: suspension - 1995 M3 Hey guys and gals, Need help with struts, shocks, etc. My rear passenger shock squeaks like hell. At least I think it is the shock when I push on it. It is also an inch lower than the other side when measured from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. If I replace the shocks, struts and mounts, what other parts (nuts, bolts, gaskets, etc.) will I need? What else should I do at the same time. My car has 72,000 miles and I am going to be putting new MXX3's on as soon as I get my straightened wheels back next week. Also, I plan on doing this myself. Does anyone know where a good write-up is located? I will check past digests, but would like something a little more than the Bentley that I have. The last time when I owned my Cosmos 1995 M3 I put Bilstein Sports and H&R springs on it. Any other suggestions? I know several of you have just done this. Not Dinan...don't have the bucks. My main usage will be a daily driver with a possible track day this spring. I do not mind stiff, but do not want my ride height lowered much do to scraping potential. Thanks, Gary Preece Louisville, KY '95M3 Avus, Jim C. chip, K&N with shield, BMWCCA #158110
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#5. Re: removing pilot sports - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 13:19:46 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: removing pilot sports I watched my tire guy struggle w/my MXX3s on stock rims. He was using the latest Hunter stuff and it still took him ~15-20 minutes/tire. The bead lock, at least on our stock rims is a really b***h. B/c of that he charges ~$12/tire to mount plus another ~$15/tire if you want them "road matched". <- feature of the new Hunter balance machine. Road match puts a load on the tire while it is spinning to find the high and low spots of the tire and rim. This allows the mechanic to rotate the tire on the rim to provide you w/the optimal balance. Doing this "can" require him to spin, break the bead, rotate the tire and respin at least once (read: it's a lot of work). Therefore, it can cost me as much $108 + tax to mount and balance 4 new tires. You get what you pay for. ttyl. S On 3/3/01 at 11:33 AM, Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks <ben@shortshifter.com> wrote: : you have GOT to be kidding me? $170 to mount and balance 4?
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: removing pilot sports - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 10:39:07 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: removing pilot sports Re: >B/c of that he charges ~$12/tire to mount plus another ~$15/tire if you >want them "road matched". <- feature of the new Hunter balance machine. >Road match puts a load on the tire while it is spinning to find the high >and low spots of the tire and rim. This allows the mechanic to rotate >the tire on the rim to provide you w/the optimal balance. Doing this >"can" require him to spin, break the bead, rotate the tire and respin at >least once (read: it's a lot of work). Aren't the tire mfgrs already doing this to a certain degree? I thought the yellow dot on the sidewall is supposed to be aligned with the valve stem for a first approximation of matching the tire's imbalance to the wheel's. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. Re: removing pilot sports - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 14:15:16 -0500 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: removing pilot sports Not sure what that dot is "suppose" to be the low/high spot of the tire? Even so the tire would still have to be matched to the rim, e.g. low rim/high tire. He has also told me that w/this machine he has been able to identify brand _new_ tires that were so far out of spec they could not be balanced. He sends these tires back for credit. It is not a big problem, but he has returned ~6 tires since getting the machine, last I talked to him. Now he's buying this thing called a shock dyno that can be used to test the shocks while ON the car. For example, he can tell you if your shocks are about to go or more importantly he can help you decide how to have the shocks valved to get the best desired results. I don't even want to think what he will charge for this service, b/c you know it will take multiple trips to valve the shocks not to mention putting them on and taking them off. :( HTH. S On 3/4/01 at 12:42 PM, Andrew E. Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> wrote: : Aren't the tire mfgrs already doing this to a certain degree? I : thought the yellow dot on the sidewall is supposed to be aligned with : the valve stem for a first approximation of matching the tire's : imbalance to the wheel's.
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 battery - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 15:48:23 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: M3 battery Here was my post on batteries from a few months ago. Best of luck. Well, it's been four years to the day and I just replaced the original battery. Used the Interstate battery Ben Liaw posted info on some time ago. The battery has been upgraded and is now model # MTP-91 (group 91) with a 72 month warranty. Price is the same as $90.00 and it weighs the same at 39 lbs. I weighed the OEM at 47.5 pounds! Fits like the OEM. However, since the vent lip on this new battery is in the middle, toward the back, I attached a piece of tubing to the battery vent lip and then connected the tube to the OEM vent tube. The only problem I ran into was electronic in nature. Know your radio code, because when you turn on the radio it will ask for it. Punch in the code (on plastic card that came with my car), and presto, it works and all preset stations still in memory. For the onboard computer, you loss everything (in my opinion cheap...even my VCR retains more info during a power failure)! You must reset clock, date, speed limit signal, consump 1 and 2, avg. speed, etc. No problem with oil change and inspection LEDs. Just some FYI for you folks. Info on battery at interstatebattery.com Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 #13 BSP 2001
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: removing pilot sports - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:30:17 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: removing pilot sports The "road matched" feature that the Hunter machine has is truly awesome. It provides for a really smooth ride. If you have a choice, definately get it done. It's well worth the money. Nick > B/c of that he charges ~$12/tire to mount plus another ~$15/tire if you > want them "road matched". <- feature of the new Hunter balance machine. > Road match puts a load on the tire while it is spinning to find the high > and low spots of the tire and rim. This allows the mechanic to rotate > the tire on the rim to provide you w/the optimal balance. Doing this > "can" require him to spin, break the bead, rotate the tire and respin at > least once (read: it's a lot of work).
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#10. re: Can't Remove Pilot Sports in NY - from nzw212@yahoo.com
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 14:42:35 -0800 (PST) From: <nzw212@yahoo.com> Subject: re: Can't Remove Pilot Sports in NY I'm in the NY Metro area also. I don't know who can do a good job but I can tell you who not to go to: Weldon Tire in Mount Kisco, NY. They assured me that they could mount my new Yok AVSes without a problem. When I returned to pick the car up all four wheels were scratched. After a heated discussion with the managed he basically told me I was sh*t out of luck because I couldn't prove he did the damage. Small claims court, here I come! Noah '95 M3 _____ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Personal Address <http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=mailiyfoot> - Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.