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#1. Re: [E36M3] UUC Sway Bar Settings - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:55:11 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Sway Bar Settings At 06:52 PM 3/7/01, Steve Sun wrote: >I'm about to purchase a set of UUC bars from a fellow list member and will >install them immediately. My question is to all of you that have these >bars. What settings F/R did you guys use? I'm a fairly competent driver >and have been to several driving schools (CCA and others). Are the >suggested initial settings (F: full stiff, R: full soft) good enough to >reduce understeer? What are some of your recommendations? The UUC recommended settings are a good starting point, but the car will understeer still, possibly even more than stock. But most likely when pushed hard, like an autocross - which was what I experienced after first putting the bars on. I'm now running them with the front at the middle postion and the rears at full stiff. But I've also got 8.5" wheels all around and -2.5 degrees neg camber up front, -1.7 rear. My suggestion is run the bars at the recommended setting first, then adjust the front first, then the rear. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#2. Re: UUC Sway Bar Settings - from Ron Katona
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Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 23:55:54 -0500 From: "Ron Katona" <rkatona@bellatlantic.net> Subject: Re: UUC Sway Bar Settings Steve, that setting is probably the wisest recommendation to give anyone in terms of baselining the car (no one can know your exact setup, alignment, vehicle and tire condition, and driver skill), but it will actually increase understeer. Try that and if you don't like it, soften the front. (I like sway bars as soft as possible to get the job done so as to minimize bad effects like skipping over bumps and lifting inside wheels - my personal preference.) If that still doesn't dial out the understeer, then stiffen the rear. If that _still_ doesn't do it, slow down on corner entry. <g> -- Ron Katona Steve Sun wrote: > I'm about to purchase a set of UUC bars from a fellow list member and will > install them immediately. My question is to all of you that have these > bars. What settings F/R did you guys use? I'm a fairly competent driver > and have been to several driving schools (CCA and others). Are the > suggested initial settings (F: full stiff, R: full soft) good enough to > reduce understeer? What are some of your recommendations?
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Dumb Misc Electrical Questions - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 00:07:01 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dumb Misc Electrical Questions The best write ups I have seen for the foglight switch and replacing the microfilter are from Brett Anderson. Check out his web site. He has a few other tech procedures for E36 models. http://www.koalamotorsport.com/E36.html Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#4. Re: [E36M3] JTD Strut Tower Brace - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 00:54:30 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] JTD Strut Tower Brace Rob, Funny you should ask. <g> Its called a "monkey wrench." Use an adjustable wrench, aka Crescent Wrench. There is no open end wrench that fits the JTD nut. 30 mm is too big. 29 mm is too small. 1 1/8" is too small. 1 1/4" is too big. I am loathe to use an adjustable wrench. In fact, I didn't own one until after I bought my JTD strut brace. Don't get me wrong, I like the JTD strut brace but I have some nits. Jim Midahl machined his strut brace to ZERO tolerances. Zero tolerance may sound good but practically speaking, nothing in this world is perfect. You need a little "slop" to make things fit. My JTD strut brace was a PITA to install. Took me over 2 hours. I've since learned some tricks but it still isn't easy. First off, the cover caps are machined to ZERO tolerance. They are very hard to get on and off. Especially without scarring them up. Then the 3 strut tower nuts are next to impossible to get on without scarring up the strut brace. The supplied acorn nuts have ZERO tolerance. They barely fit in the holes. But no strut hat perfectly matches the holes in the strut brace so you have to bend the studs to fit. And last but not least is that "no size" adjustable nut. I think Jim M was trying to make it 1 1/8" but goofed and made it just a tiny bit too large. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#5. Re: SanJose/Santa Clara location for tire install? - from Roger Baker
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Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 22:44:29 -0800 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: SanJose/Santa Clara location for tire install? Custom Alignment in Mountain View. Great shop & prices aren't too far off Tire Rack. Mount & bal is kind of pricey but they do it right. -- Roger "Eric Fesler" <eric@fesler.org> wrote: > Hi all, > I went to the local BMWCCA car clinic this last weekend and discovered that > my rear tires are slicks. I guess I can't hold out until the PP S03s come > out so I am going to order a set of Bridgestone PP-S02s from TireRack. > Anyone know of a place locally (San Jose/Santa Clara) that does good > balancing and will accept a shipment from TireRack? > > Thanks, > Eric
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#6. failed smog test - from Scott King
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 06:58:46 -0500 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: failed smog test This talk of failed emissions tests has got me thinking... I am on the verge of putting in an order for the Conforti intake and Shark injector, but now have some concerns regarding passing the local E-check. Like Nick said, high hc's are ususally a result of misfires or rich mixtures. My understanding is that the Conforti software does indeed richen the mixture to an extent throughout the fuel maps. Is this enough in and of itself to fail an emissions test? My car is a 97 that has just been through an inspection II 3,000 miles ago and I just passed my emissions test with no problems. Has anyone on the list failed an emissions test as a direct result of sharking their car? I know I could always revert back to stock software with the injector, but I was hoping this was not a necessity every time I have to have the car tested. Any experience/explanations would be greatly appreciated. Scott Not wanting to talk to the EPA anymore than I have to. 97 M3 83 GTI >High HCs are usually caused by misfires or rich mixtures. When was the > >last >time you changed your spark plugs? how about the oxygen sensor? >Nick >So my 95m3 jc chip and intake failed @ 15mph on the hydro carbons. >Measured 141 max is 121. Help... Should I put the stock chip back in >or what are my options. > >Jay Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:56:06 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - UUC Motorwerks" <ben@shortshifter.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] failed smog test under what conditions did you fair? when i had the bambislayer (also a 95 M3), i failed the first time, too. it had jim c software, intake...everything. this was tested first thing in the morning, without the cats getting hot enough. i took it back to retest it a few hours later and it passed. trick is...you HAVE to get the catalytic converters HOT. drive around for 10 minutes at minimum of 3500rpm and then go back. you should pass then. ben ------------------------------------------- ben liaw - ben@shortshifter.com http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >So my 95m3 jc chip and intake failed @ 15mph on the hydro carbons. >Measured 141 max is 121. Help... Should I put the stock chip back in >or what are my options. > >Jay _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#7. ETM for 95 M3 - from Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:06:56 -0500 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: ETM for 95 M3 Does the ETM cover ABS troubleshooting? If it does, would anyone be willing to copy that section for me? My ABS has been out for a while. I tried the grey relay (And thanks to BMW for making Suzy remove the TSB's so I had to dig for the info...), but that didn't work. I figure I'll poke around a bit before letting a shop do it. TIA, Eric 95 M3 00 Passat Wagon
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#8. Re: [E36M3] ETM for 95 M3 - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:26:01 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ETM for 95 M3 The ETM isn't enough to properly troubleshoot the ABS system. You first have to get to a DIS or Modic (BMW's diagnostic equipment) and read out the fault codes. Then you can begin checking the electrical connections if necessary. I'm currently going through the same thing: ABS light constantly on and no ABS. I read the fault codes out and got strange results. Sometimes it would say "could not communicate" and not give me any codes. Other times it gives me code 33, faulty rear inlet valve (if I recall correctly). I've tried my control module in another car and it was fine. I then checked the wiring harness thoroughly and it was ok too. In the process, I found an open circuit in one of the solenoids in the ABS pump. Thus, that's most likely the problem. Good thing I have an extended warranty, as it costs like $1600(!!). Good luck, Nick '95 M3 turbo > Does the ETM cover ABS troubleshooting? If it does, would anyone be willing to > copy that section for me? My ABS has been out for a while. I tried the grey > relay (And thanks to BMW for making Suzy remove the TSB's so I had to dig for > the info...), but that didn't work. I figure I'll poke around a bit before > letting a shop do it. > > TIA, > > Eric > 95 M3 > 00 Passat Wagon
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#9. Re: [E36M3] failed smog test - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 08:29:25 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] failed smog test The Conforti software alone will not cause you to fail an emissions test. The fuel map modifications do not necessarily make the engine richer at part throttle. The part throttle maps (which are responsible for emissions) are changed to get the engine running at stoich with minimal learning (adaption). This tends to help emissions, not hurt. Wide open throttle operation is another matter ;) Nick '95 M3 turbo > This talk of failed emissions tests has got me thinking... > > I am on the verge of putting in an order for the Conforti intake and Shark > injector, but now have some concerns regarding passing the local E-check. > > Like Nick said, high hc's are ususally a result of misfires or rich > mixtures. My understanding is that the Conforti software does indeed richen > the mixture to an extent throughout the fuel maps. Is this enough in and of > itself to fail an emissions test? My car is a 97 that has just been through > an inspection II 3,000 miles ago and I just passed my emissions test with no > problems. > > Has anyone on the list failed an emissions test as a direct result of > sharking their car? > > I know I could always revert back to stock software with the injector, but I > was hoping this was not a necessity every time I have to have the car > tested. Any experience/explanations would be greatly appreciated. > > Scott > Not wanting to talk to the EPA anymore than I have to. > 97 M3 > 83 GTI
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#10. 95 M3 rims FS - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:05:27 -0800 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: 95 M3 rims FS Does anyone want/need 95 M3 rims? I have 5, all immaculate, ready to go. Email privately fo pictures or questions. They would make excellent Track/AutoX rims. Ben :::::::::::::::::::::::: Ben C. Tickner Vice President Information Fusion, Inc. Tel: 401.782.4224 Fax: 401.782.4455 Mobile: 401.741.9060 ben@infofusion.com www.infofusion.com ::::::::::::::::::::::::
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#11. Seat Replacement Question - from Ben C. Tickner
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Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:08:25 -0800 From: "Ben C. Tickner" <ben@infofusion.com> Subject: Seat Replacement Question I have an opportunity to replace my drivers "Vader" seat (which has a rip on the left seam) with a right side seat. Does anyone know if the upper half of the seats are identical and if there is a procedure for removing and installing the upper portion? Thanks Ben :::::::::::::::::::::::: Ben C. Tickner Vice President Information Fusion, Inc. Tel: 401.782.4224 Fax: 401.782.4455 Mobile: 401.741.9060 ben@infofusion.com www.infofusion.com ::::::::::::::::::::::::