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#1. Re: [E36M3] CAT - from NickG
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 00:44:31 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] CAT Steve, The noise you hear is perfectly normal. It's the catalytic converter cooling down. It does not mean the converter is going bad. If the converter were to go bad, it *might* set off the check engine light, but not necessarily. Nick '95 M3 turbo > When I got out of my car just now with the engine running I hear a noise > that sound like rock bouncing around under the car. Anyone know what it > might be? I think it was coming from the cat. If the catalytic converters is > bad will your cheek engine light come on? If it the cat I want to get if fix > before my warranty run out in Sept. I have a 97 M3 with 28K. Steve
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#2. Toolboxes for sale - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:17:20 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Toolboxes for sale I have an extra Craftsman middle box and chest for sale. $150 for the pair + shipping. I can drop them off in the San Diego - LA area for free. They are 26 inches wide and 12 inches deep. http://www.apexcone.com/LogosandPics/Garage/Boxes4Sale.jpg Jim
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#3. FS: Eibach Springs for M3 - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:56:08 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Eibach Springs for M3 I recently replaced my Eibach springs with the stock units. I felt that the Eibachs lowered the car too much for the turbo car (it has a pipe that's really low and kept hitting stuff). The Eibachs have a ride that's between stock and the H&R sports. I think that turerack has a review of these and more stats. These are for the '95 but they can be used on a 96+ car with the '95 upper spring perch which I'll include if necessary. Price is $125+shipping from Austin. Please reply via e-mail if you are interested. -Matt __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#4. Hoosier Pressures - from Peter Guagenti
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:38:10 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> Subject: Hoosier Pressures I ran a set of Hoosier's for the first time at an autocross today, and I'm looking for some advice on tire pressures. The details: Hoosier RS303's in 245/40-17 on MM 11-2's in 17x9 with 15mm spacers in front. This was my first time on R-compounds. I was pushing _really_ bad at most moderate speeds, in places that I think I wouldn't have been on my street tires. I ran at 35f/35r on my first run, 35f/33r on my second run, and 35f/31r on my last run. It pushed less on each run, but I don't feel like I know enough about pressures to know if I'm getting too low for these tires. I was always taught that lower pressure = more traction and that lower pressure in back means more slip at the rear (hence easier rotation). That seems to make sense, but I hear most people running absurd pressures on Hoosiers (Hondas running 48f/42r, etc)... What pressures do most people run? How is your car set-up otherwise? What's the best way (barring use of a pyrometer) to find the best pressures for these tires? Any advice is appreciated. -p
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Hoosier Pressures - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 16:47:17 -0800 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hoosier Pressures Peter, The Honda guys are more right than you! I run 45 Front 35 Rear. You wanna keep those front tires from distorting from side load! Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Guagenti" <peter@guagenti.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 2:47 PM Subject: [E36M3] Hoosier Pressures | Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:38:10 -0800 | From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> | Subject: Hoosier Pressures | | I ran a set of Hoosier's for the first time at an autocross today, and I'm | looking for some advice on tire pressures. | | The details: Hoosier RS303's in 245/40-17 on MM 11-2's in 17x9 with 15mm | spacers in front. This was my first time on R-compounds. | | I was pushing _really_ bad at most moderate speeds, in places that I think I | wouldn't have been on my street tires. I ran at 35f/35r on my first run, | 35f/33r on my second run, and 35f/31r on my last run. | | It pushed less on each run, but I don't feel like I know enough about | pressures to know if I'm getting too low for these tires. I was always | taught that lower pressure = more traction and that lower pressure in back | means more slip at the rear (hence easier rotation). That seems to make | sense, but I hear most people running absurd pressures on Hoosiers (Hondas | running 48f/42r, etc)... | | What pressures do most people run? How is your car set-up otherwise? | What's the best way (barring use of a pyrometer) to find the best pressures | for these tires? | | Any advice is appreciated. | | -p | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message. | ************************************************************* | | |
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#6. '95 M3 service questions - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:38:35 EST From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: '95 M3 service questions Working on my M3 for the first time (apart from installing Euro headlights), I did most of an Inspection II this weekend, but had problems with a couple of items, and was wondering if there are any tips to make things go a little smoother? First, as an early '95 (6/94 build date), the fuel filter is in a different position from later cars, and is tucked up on the left hand side (attached to the engine mount, according to Bentley), not readily accessible from underneath or from inside the engine bay. Any suggestions on how to get to it? I couldn't get my hand in there far enough to really work with it I was also trying to change the brake and clutch fluid. Brakes, of course, were no problem, but I couldn't get a wrench with enough room to turn it on the clutch slave bleeder, where it's tucked up on the transmission. Any ideas on how to do this again appreciated. TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#7. Garage space for a racing car in PA - from Carguymb@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 21:38:36 EST From: Carguymb@aol.com Subject: Garage space for a racing car in PA I'm asking on behalf of a friend who just moved to the Philly suburbs from LA. He's looking for somewhere to store and work on his race car. It doesn't have to be too fancy, but at the moment his trailer with the car inside is parked on the street. If you have any leads, please reply off-digest to me, and I'll pass them on. The closer to Berwyn the better, since that's where he and his wife are living. Thanks, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#8. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3 service questions - from Ricardo A. Venegas
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:30:28 -0500 From: "Ricardo A. Venegas" <venegas@home.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] '95 M3 service questions Martin, That little clutch bleeder is quite a pain. The larger your hands the more difficult it is to do. That combined with lying on your back, underneath a 3300 lb car, makes the whole process no fun (even though it is properly supported by 4 jackstands) What I have found is the use of a very small 7mm wrench that Steve D'G. carries at www.ultimategarage.com. I try to open no more than two turns and just wait for the fluid to drain. Also, make sure you have plenty of fluid in the reservoir, the first time I bled the clutch, the wrench kept falling out of my hands, I could not close the bleeder screw, and fluid just kept pouring out. Can you tell I am not a professional. ;) Subsequent bleeds have gone much smoother, I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that Chester was helping me the first time, but not any of the other times. If you get any other tips or tool ideas, please forward. Ricardo > -----Original Message----- > > I was also trying to change the brake and clutch fluid. Brakes, of course, were no problem, but I couldn't get a wrench with enough room to turn it on > the clutch slave bleeder, where it's tucked up on the transmission. Any ideas on how to do this again appreciated. >
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#9. RE: [E36M3] '95 M3 service questions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:45:54 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] '95 M3 service questions --- "Ricardo A. Venegas" <venegas@home.com> wrote: > Subsequent bleeds have gone much smoother, I wonder if it has anything to do > with the fact that Chester was helping me the first time, but not any of the > other times. OOOOOOOHHHHH!!!! DOH! Maybe it was because of my great wisdom that subesequent bleeds, despite not having my presence, have gone smoother!!!! Actually, as I recall, you and Alex were left alone to spill fluid all over Dave Ngo's garage floor. Sheesh! I can't find the specific post (thought I saved it), but Brett Anderson once chimed in about how to bleed the clutch. Open the bleed nipple a crack and set the drain hose in the collector cup. Crawl out from under the car and push the clutch to the floor...it won't return. You might want to do it slowly as lots of fluid will come out. Crawl back under the car and shut the bleed valve. Now get back in the car and pump the clutch pedal a few times. You'll probably have to use your hand to pull the pedal up until pressure is restored. FWIW, Chester I'll get your Ricardo!!!! ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Hoosier Pressures - from Sean Hester
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Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 00:23:42 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hoosier Pressures >I was pushing _really_ bad at most moderate speeds, in places that I think >I >wouldn't have been on my street tires. I ran at 35f/35r on my first run, >35f/33r on my second run, and 35f/31r on my last run. > >It pushed less on each run, but I don't feel like I know enough about >pressures to know if I'm getting too low for these tires. higher is better with these tires. and since you don't go long enough to really "heat them up" you don't need to worry much about the pressures increasing, so being in the 40s is fine. (if you do any road racing, you WILL heat the tires and the pressures will skyrocket, so don't use more then about 35.) >I was always >taught that lower pressure = more traction and that lower pressure in back >means more slip at the rear (hence easier rotation). maybe it's too late, but didn't you contradict yourself here? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com