-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Sway Bar Links - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:24:14 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Sway Bar Links >Does anyone know of some rear sway bar links that don't rattle? The >spherical bearings on my uuc links are a little too loose and they rattle >constantly. As for the fronts, Ground Control has some very solid links, >but >they don't have any rear links available yet. my stock BMW rear sway bar links never rattled. ;-) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. VIR Pictured including wreck - from William Horlacher
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:24:29 -0500 From: "William Horlacher" <Horlacher@GermanCarrParts.com> Subject: VIR Pictured including wreck Goto www.germancarrparts.com <http://www.germancarrparts.com> for pictures of the E-30 that flipped this past weekend. Yes the driver is absolutely fine, it happened at the top of the uphill S's @ approximately 110mph. =20 =20 =20 William Horlacher Phone 336.931.0020 www.GermanCarrParts.com <http://www.GermanCarrParts.com>=20 Horlacher@Germancarrparts.com <mailto:Horlacher@Germancarrparts.com>=20
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. FS: Redline 10W40 motor oil (NYC area) - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:33:53 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Redline 10W40 motor oil (NYC area) Hi guys. I have 12 quarts of Redline 10W40 motor oil for sale. I'm asking $7/qt. For local pickup only. Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:29:09 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box Lloyd, DO NOT get the Euro airbox with the Euro HFM. If you get the larger Euro HFM, the Euro airbox will hurt your performance. Or better way of putting it. You will not get full potential out of the larger Euro HFM. The Euro airbox will not flow enough air. You do have a '95 M3? Right? The Euro HFM only works with '95 M3's. The way to go is buy the Euro HFM from Eurosport or Turner Motorsport and then buy the Eurosport/Conforti or East Coast Induction System intake. Both will have much more hp/torque than the Euro airbox/Euro HFM combo. I know. I've dyno'ed my '95 M3 with Euro airbox/Euro HFM and ECIS/Euro HFM. The ECIS made another 10+ hp and 6+ torque. And to answer your question. Yes, the Dinan "High Flow Air Box" is one and the same as the Euro M3 air box. I know. I paid Dinan $400 for it. It comes with a unique adapter so you can mate it to the stock U.S. HFM. I removed the adapter and it mounts perfectly to the Euro HFM. However, I wish I had the $400. In your case, take your $400 and buy the Eurosport/Conforti intake. You won't be sorry. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Need info on 6spd tranny conversion - from Rob
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 21:05:41 -0700 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Need info on 6spd tranny conversion I'm need some info on the 6spd tranny conversion. My buddy wants to convert his '94 Euro-spec car to a 6spd and change the diff so that the new 6th gear is a 'tiny' bit taller than the original 5th. -Anyone know exactly what parts are needed (Ben?) ? -Anyone have a good source, either new or used, for the parts? -Anyone know the proper ratio?. I was thinking ~3.45 ? -What about adding a Quaife or upgading to a 40% lock? Thanks, Rob
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box - from Sean Hester
Top
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 22:19:36 -0800 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box >DO NOT get the Euro airbox with the Euro HFM. If you get the larger Euro >HFM, the Euro airbox will hurt your performance. Or better way of putting >it. You will not get full potential out of the larger Euro HFM. The Euro >airbox will not flow enough air. >The way to go is buy the Euro HFM from Eurosport or Turner Motorsport and >then buy the Eurosport/Conforti or East Coast Induction System intake. i want to make sure what i think lowell meant. since i read it wrong the first time. the euro airbox/large HFM setup will give you MORE power then the stock 95 setup. the large HFM with a "real" intake will give EVEN MORE. i sounded from the first sentence that the euro airbox/large HFM would actually reduce your power. and that's not true. > >You do have a '95 M3? Right? The Euro HFM only works with '95 M3's. > Both >will have much more hp/torque than the Euro airbox/Euro HFM combo. I know. >I've dyno'ed my '95 M3 with Euro airbox/Euro HFM and ECIS/Euro HFM. The >ECIS >made another 10+ hp and 6+ torque. > >And to answer your question. Yes, the Dinan "High Flow Air Box" is one and >the same as the Euro M3 air box. I know. I paid Dinan $400 for it. It >comes with a unique adapter so you can mate it to the stock U.S. HFM. I >removed the adapter and it mounts perfectly to the Euro HFM. > >However, I wish I had the $400. In your case, take your $400 and buy the >Eurosport/Conforti intake. You won't be sorry. > >Lowell Seaton >'95 M3 >Dallas, Texas > > >************************************************************* >List Commands >UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. >DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. >GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > >To issue a command/request to the server: >Send a message with the command you wish executed as the >subject of the message. >************************************************************* > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 03:27:55 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro Air Box Sean, thanks for the clarification. You are now hired to be my speech writer. A little history. Right after I bought my M3 in February '96, I fell under the spell of Steve Dinan. I saw his ads and catalog. "Oh! 20+ hp - got to have that. 10+ hp? Got to have that too. 30+ hp - I love it!" Add it all up and what do you have? A sight less than 60+ hp I can assure you. Fortunately I wised up before I went broke. I purchased the Dinan computer chip and Dinan's "High Flow Air Box" aka Euro airbox. 2 years later I spent $900 for the Turner Motorsport Euro HFM kit including larger HFM/custom Conforti chip and Euro airbox which turned out to be the same damn thing as the Dinan airbox. I dyno'd my M3 with the Dinan crap. Max hp was 215.5 and 203.7 ft-lb torque. I then dyno'd my M3 on the same dyno with the Euro HFM, custom Conforti chip, and Euro airbox. Max hp was 216 and 203.8 ft-lb torque. What the hell??? I spent $900 for 0.5 hp!!!!!! I was not a happy camper. I traded e-mails with Jim Conforti and it even took him awhile to figure out why my results with the Euro HFM were not better. It finally dawned on him it was the stupid Euro airbox. The airbox limited the Euro HFM's potential. I've since added the ECIS/K&N cone filter intake. I now dyno at 230-232 hp. Bottom line - you can't get more hp with the Euro HFM than just the chip alone. $900 vs. $250. Don't waste your money on the HFM and custom Conforti chip IF YOU ALSO BUY THE EURO AIR BOX. The $250 chip alone will get you just as much hp. Don't buy the Euro airbox. There are much better alternatives. Lowell Seaton '95 M3
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. roll centers query - from daanesh chanduwadia
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 15:21:21 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: roll centers query All the 3.0 vs. 3.2 L talk got me thinking (uh oh). Someone mentioned the 3.2 had quicker turn in. The differences between the 3.0 and 3.2 are rather extensive, I doubt the sharper turn in has much to do with the increased caster and reduced camber. (if anything those should slow turn-in). More likely you’re feeling the 3.2’s different rack – the 3.0’s is slower on center. In C&D’s first drive of the 3.2L, they noted the car turned almost before you commanded or something along those lines. It also raises another question that I’ve had on my mind: how does lowering our cars affect roll center? I ask because I’ve noticed a trend emerging recently in cars from the Oddessey/MDX to the Impreza: raised rear roll centers. For example, on the new Impreza: “New geometry raises the rear roll center 33 millimeters above that of the front suspension, to about the same level as in an Impreza WRC rally car. This reduces rear suspension compression while cornering, which improves stability during quick maneuvers, enhances straight-line stability and contributes to a more neutral feel when cornering.” I imagine lowering is more straightforward on cars with the same type of suspension design front and rear (e.g. the Impreza with MacPherson Struts all around) but how does that affect BMWs, especially newer ones with Macpherson Struts in front and the multilink rear? If one were to raise the rear (by using different spring pads, say) or lower the front more than the rear (most lowering kits do this the Euro 95s for example are 1.18 inches lower F, .375 lower rear) what would the effect be? I ask because my car is (for some unknown reason that I plan on sharing with the list shortly) lower in the rear than it should be, and it feels horrible subjectively). I’m interested in the theory, too. I just wish I didn’t seem to learn everything the hard way ;) daanesh p.s. also, how much of a difference in ride height does a 5mm difference in spring pad thickness make (due to the geometry of the rear suspension)? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: Coilovers and springs - from Greg Cernosek
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:18:42 -0600 From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.com> Subject: RE: Coilovers and springs See comments within... -----Original Message (Stuff Deleted)----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 12:34 AM To: trackjunkies@yahoogroups.com; gcernosek@inetx.com; Robert.Mainini@banctec.com Subject: Coilovers and springs Greg - We installed the GC coilover on Bob's M Coupe. His front springs have about a 2" gap from the spring to the strut hat. Same as you. Looks like Bob and you have the same Eibach front springs. 7 inches you say? That's what the box they came in said. I haven't measured them myself yet, but plan to tonight when I am replacing my trashed wheel bearing. Luis - Why do you say it is bad to have a gap between the spring and the perch? As long as the wheels are on the ground, the springs are under compression. They can't go anywhere. They are on the strut. Yea, they are on the strut and have a nice aluminum hat that goes on top of them. I guess it could be a problem if you came airborne and the shock/strut (do you still call it a strut when it is a coil-over?) goes to full extension, then the hat comes out of the top of the spring somehow. When the weight was returned to the shock/strut, the spring could be cocked sideways a little. That's the only potential problem I see. I am a little surprised there was that much space between the top of the spring and the bottom of the hat since Jay at GC said the shocks/struts were shortened. Oh well, it doesn't matter because I plan on going with some longer springs anyway. Greg - Bob has nearly the same GC suspension as you do except Bob has the single adjustable Koni in the rear. I'm curious to see your double adjustable Koni's. I looked at the German pictograms showing how to adjust the SA Koni's. I still don't know how to do it. You don't want to see them unless you are ready to write a check. They are SWEEEEET! Both compression and rebound are externally adjustable. The rebound is adjusted on top just like the front shocks/strut (damn, what do you call it?), but compression is now a little screw in the side of the rear shock near the bottom bolt (toward the back of the car). You simply take a flat blade screwdriver to the compression adjuster and click away. See, SWEEEEET! I have to admit, the fact that they are externally adjustable is a big part of the reason I spent the extra cash to get the rears converted to DA :) So Greg, you flipped that big washer upside down? Huh. I'll bet it is a common mistake. I'm not sure why, but you have to concentrate the strut loads to a point. If you look at the bottom of the strut hat, it is concave down. Then the big washer is concave up so the strut hat is almost balancing on a point. Well, I can't really say whether it is upside down or not. It definitely is upside down from the way I installed it the first time. I don't remember how it came off the stock strut. See, the washer isn't drastically ramped. It is barely noticeable. And, since the instructions from GC said it was flat, I didn't bother to pay attention to how it came off the stock setup. The whole reason it is ramped is because the actual bearing surface is slightly below (and inside) the hat which holds it. By having the washer in the wrong way, I allowed the fancy machined aluminum hat that ground control sent to touch the hat instead of the bearing surface. This (of course is my theory) caused the spring to bind when I turned. Once I flipped the washer over, the little aluminum hat only contacted the washer which in turn only contacted the bearing surface. I don't know how you would remove the strut top nut otherwise. I did one junk pair of struts by clamping the shaft with a pair of Vise Grips. Greg - how did you take your stock struts apart? I just braaaaaaaap-braaaaaaaaaped it off (IOW I used the IR impact gun). No need to hold it at all. We ended up using a pair of Vise Grips to clamp the strut shaft as high up as possible, out of any potential range of the shock, to hold it and tighten the top nut. The shaft is damn hard steel. My cheap Vise Grips couldn't even touch it. We didn't get a lot of torque on the top nut but it won't come loose anytime soon. Eventually, I'll make a special deep socket for any future Koni coilover installs I do. LOL Yeikes! I didn't want to do that. A fellow track junkie suggested using a bicycle tube with some vice grips. I was going to do that, but couldn't find a spare tube laying around and didn't feel like attacking my Cannondale, so I just braaaaaaaaaap-braaaaaaaped it back on. Jay seemed to feel this was a good way to do it and I figured he has probably done this a few times more than I have :) Greg - where do you work, live, play? I'd like to see your "DAMN this car is LOW" M3 before you install longer springs. I'd enjoy coming over during the install to WATCH. Work in Addison, live in Irving, and play just about anywhere I can. I just joined the Ranch, so I plan on spending considerable time out there. I attended most of the CCA autocrosses last year (and won F class-wohoooo). This year I plan on spending most of my time on the track with just a few autocrosses thrown in for good measure. I may even be out at Mineral Wells this weekend, hopefully with longer springs and new wheel bearings though. I will let you know when I plan on swapping springs. But don't bet you have the lowest M in town. You have not seen Bob's "DAMN this is LOWER" M Coupe. <vbg> If you have your spring perches set at full up, Bob is a good inch lower than you. We have his spring perches set in the middle of the range. But I admit, Bob's M Coupe looks Bad Ass. I'm afraid it will high center on a marble. <grin> If my car were an inch lower, the tires would be touching the fender-liners and my exhaust and X-brace would darn near be touching the ground. I agree with Greg. I think the Koni/Eibach/GC coilovers ride fairly well. Bob and I went for a quick ride after our handywork. The ride is stiff, but still not as stiff as my damn gawd awful Bilstein/Dinan/R tire M3. At slow speed, you get a bit more choppiness but at higher speed, it smoothes out fine. His M Coupe did well on my personal ride comfort test track - northbound Coit from Campbell to Frankford. I have to remember to keep my mouth shut in my M3 or risk biting my tongue off. And handling? The GC coilovers are mighty fine Very sharp and quick handling. They work well. Yep. I am VERY happy with my setup. The predictability and control gained at the track more than makes up for the slight (very slight) decrease in street comfort. These little problems are just that. Little. Considering the degree of change involved with a complete suspension swap out and the number of variables (including car to car differences), I am actually very happy with the progress of the setup. The only thing I can really complain about is the response from Koni. They took about six weeks to convert my rear shocks to double adjustable. And as I said before, they didn't come through with the correct rear shock hardware on Saturday delivery like they promised. Greg
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Another M3 Bites the Dust - from Drew Bamford
Top
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:48:51 From: "Drew Bamford" <drewbam@hotmail.com> Subject: Another M3 Bites the Dust A driving-challenged person in a saturn wagon blew through a stop sign on Friday and I t-boned her in my '98 M3/4, a.k.a. Fleder Maus. BMW SF's initial estimate on the damage (the entire front end and the left rear door) is $18K. Two questions: 1. I would like to have the insurance company total the car, as I don't think I will ever feel safe driving it at 140mph on a track again. Does anyone have any advice on how to convince the insurance company that they should not fix my car? 2. Has anyone ever had any serious body work done at BMW San Francisco? Are they a good shop? (I am sure that they are ridiculously expensive, but I am not footing the bill here). Thanks for any assistance you can provide. drew | hating his POS Mitsubishi Galant rental PS--I found it very curious that none of my four airbags deployed in this accident. While I am glad that they did not, given the potential for injury and mess, I am left wondering what exactly would be required to trip the sensor. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com