-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: ext warranty - yes, you need to buy it. - from George M. Kofman
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:29:07 -0600 From: "George M. Kofman" <sdg2@execpc.com> Subject: Re: ext warranty - yes, you need to buy it. Paul; > [snip] Anyway, since youre a > big proponent of ext warranties okay, I am a big proponent of ext warranties on Euro cars... If I owned a HONDA/Acura/Toyota, I'd just put gas and oil and drive it until it was time to sell it..... > how do you feel about them with significantly modified cars? that would depend on the mods... let's examine what happens with extended warranties in general. instead of writing it in a paragraph form, I am going to write it in pseudocode (1st time in this millenium) car no work... dealership diagnoses the problem as "part X" broke due to "cause A" dealership calls warrantygold.com with the diagnosis ("part X" and "cause A") IF "part X" is covered under warranty .and. "cause A" is an acceptable cause of failure which is covered by the warranty IF replacement cost < max_cost_without_having_an_adjustor_show_up warrantygold.com authorizes the shop to repair "part X" shop repairs "part X" ELSE adjustor (a mechanic who does this for a living) comes to the dealership where the car is undergoing repairs adjustor examines the vehicle to see if he agrees with the diagnosis ("part X" and "cause A" IF adjustor does not agree with "part A" have the dealership duke it out with warrantygold.com and adjustor while you are playing interferrence (did not happen to me. not at all) END IF IF adjustor does not agree with "cause A" have the dealership duke it out with warrantygold.com and adjustor while you are playing interferrence /* you may be screwed if they can prove that "cause A" is not covered - money downshift, racing, off road use, etc */ END IF END IF ELSE /* get some KY jelly because.... you are screwed END IF a few "exceptions" - if you are a good service customer and/or have a good relationship with your SA/dealer/mechanic, they will go out of their way to accomodate an acceptable "part X" and "cause A." (I am not suggesting anyone will commit fraud on your behalf). for instance, if "cause A" is covered but "cause B" is not, and it's hard to tell which one of the two caused the failure, they (SA/mechanic/dealer) will try for "cause A." At this point, if the $$$ is way outrageous, the adjustor will come out and examine to make sure it's kosher. so, your differential puked. and you had an aftermarket one. as long as the $$$'s are low enough and the shop doesn't say "it's an aftermarket diff that puked," you are okay. dealer tells warrantygold.com how much the part costs, they pay them with a credit card. dealer puts in whatever part. you may need to pay the delta between OEM and "aftermarket" price. can an adjustor tell the difference between an E36M3 diff or a Quaffe (sp) ? I dunno... will your dinan supercharger be covered ? did it come from the dealer that way ? maybe. maybe not. you'll need to address it w/ warrantygold.com will they cover your engine if the turbo melts it ? not if the adjustor red flags it. you get the idea.... > Id kind of written off the idea, because I > figured that with my aftermarket excursions, there's no way I'd be able to > maintain coverage...Visions of coughing up a couple thou just to find out > when it came time to put the pedal to the metal, the company would refuse to > put their money where their mouths were clouded my brain. Do you have any > feeling one way or the other whether in my case it would make any sense? > Thanks. I would strongly suggest calling Dave Wallace(davew@warrantygold.com) @ 800-580-9889 x4729 (be sure to use *67 to blank out your caller id) and ask him these questions. They decide if you want to move forward. But for the love of G-d, do not mention racing, driving schools, track events, etc. > _____________________ > Paul Elliott > '99 Alpine White M3 <30000 mi Forged M dbl-spokes; Rotex pads; Dinan Stage > II Supercharger; Stygar Short Shift kit and Clutch Stop; Skaggs Pedals; > X-brace; Sound by Kenwood Excelon, Polk, JL Audio GMK (www.motorsports-exchange.com) '97 M3/4 @ 56Kmi (AVS Sport on the street, A032R on the track; PF90's, ATE 200, xbrace, shroth rallye-4 harnessbelts) 'spending my $$$ on racing education via Skip Barber Race Series --- 3K in repair savings is paying for a race weekend and a lapping day.
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. underhood temps/FLIR pics - from daanesh chanduwadia
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 19:36:44 From: "daanesh chanduwadia" <daanesh@hotmail.com> Subject: underhood temps/FLIR pics FYI -- Nowack claims they lowered intake air temp by up to 24 degrees (worth as much as 20 hp) by coating the underside of the factory airbox on teh N500. (note: i'm not sure if they mean the airboxes as we know them or the 'box' containing the 'bundle of snakes' intake plenum). -daanesh _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Warped Rotors???? - from Bill Lackey
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:17:48 -0800 From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> Subject: Warped Rotors???? I recently ran at Laguna Seca and I believe I have warped my new AP big brake kit rotors. What is disturbing even further is the day was cold and rainy so I really didn't push then that hard. I haven't checked the rotors yet, but under braking I feel the brakes pulse and the car shakes very lightly. At the end of the LS event the car started shaking pretty badly when under hard braking. I let the car sit for a while and it improved but did not go away completely. It did get noticeable better though. Any Ideas? This is a 95 M3. Wheel bearings? Bill Lackey _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Warped Rotors???? - from Bill Lackey
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:17:52 -0800 From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> Subject: Warped Rotors???? I recently ran at Laguna Seca and I believe I have warped my new AP big brake kit rotors. What is disturbing even further is the day was cold and rainy so I really didn't push then that hard. I haven't checked the rotors yet, but under braking I feel the brakes pulse and the car shakes very lightly. At the end of the LS event the car started shaking pretty badly when under hard braking. I let the car sit for a while and it improved but did not go away completely. It did get noticeable better though. Any Ideas? This is a 95 M3. Wheel bearings? Bill Lackey _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Warped Rotors???? - from Jim Powell
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:33:07 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Warped Rotors???? Do you have spacers on the front wheels? Sure the wheels are hubcentric? Did you EVENLY torque the lug bolts before driving? If they're warped I'd be a very pissed off boy at A/P Jim Bill Lackey wrote: > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 12:17:52 -0800 > From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> > Subject: Warped Rotors???? > > I recently ran at Laguna Seca and I believe I have warped my new AP big > brake kit rotors. What is disturbing even further is the day was cold and > rainy so I really didn't push then that hard. > I haven't checked the rotors yet, but under braking I feel the brakes pulse > and the car shakes very lightly. At the end of the LS event the car started > shaking pretty badly when under hard braking. I let the car sit for a while > and it improved but did not go away completely. It did get noticeable better > though. Any Ideas? This is a 95 M3. > > Wheel bearings? > > Bill Lackey > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Ext Warr - from lee.leslie@firstunion.com
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 15:58:00 -0500 From: lee.leslie@firstunion.com Subject: Ext Warr Food for thought.. if anyone buys warranty direct you might note that they will not ever see your car.. & will have no way to know how many miles you have on it... if you had say 49.5K on it & they quoted you $1800, you might try the little calculator again with a typo.. say 29.5K.. your price will drop by about $200... Also.. I think that if you ask some one who has service with them.. they probably have a 10% or something the other discount coupon that they got when they signed up & I think you both will get some kind of rebate... Good luck..
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Turner Motorsport at Sebring - from Will Turner
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:27:09 -0500 From: "Will Turner" <willt@turnermotorsport.com> Subject: Turner Motorsport at Sebring SEBRING QUALIFYING: TURNER 2nd, SALAMA 8TH March 15, 2001 (Amesbury, MA): After a spectacular qualifying session Turner Motorsport's (www.turnermotorsport.com) top drivers found themselves on the first and fourth rows for tomorrow's Speedvision Touring Car race at historic Sebring International Raceway in central Florida. Check out SCCA's website for the official times (http://www.speedvisionwc.com/2001/sebring/tc-qual.html) Team-owner Will Turner, in his first qualifying laps ever at Sebring, drove a lap of 2.32.654 to place him on the front row of the grid in the second spot. His BMW 328is has run exceptionally well throughout this week's practice sessions. Don Salama qualified his BMW on the outside of the fourth row after experiencing braking problems during practice. His time is just .682 from the fourth spot. The green flag drops at 11:10 am tomorrow morning. Results can be seen on the Speedvision World Challenge website (www.speedvisionwc.com) shortly after the race's one hour duration. Turner Motorsport will report back tomorrow on the results of what promises to be an exciting race. END
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: Suspension upgrade - 95 M3 - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:38:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade - 95 M3 on 3/14/01 1:47 PM, "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> wrote: > I have ordered the Konis and O.E. H&R's along with all of the reinforcements > plates, gaskets and mounts. In addition, I went ahead and ordered 4 > self-locking collar nuts (#31 33 1 092 887) and 2 self-locking hex nuts (#33 > 52 1 137 360) for the rear. Can anyone tell me which nuts, bolts, etc. I > should replace in the front? The Bentley says something about replacing the > "encapsulated bolts". I bought the gasket and strut reinforcement, but I was > wondering if I was missing anything. The two lower bolts holding the strut to the kingpin (aka steering knuckle or wheel upright) have threadlocker in dry microencapsulated form already applied on them. You can reuse the originals with some Loctite. The other BMW self-locking nuts you bought are indeed one-time use only. They are all metal, and slightly crimped to grip the bolt shank. You can also substitute regular Nylock nuts for multiple use. > I already own a set of spring compressors, 22mm deepwell, torx sockets for the > drive axle, strut tube cutter, compressed air, etc. Anything that I will just > HAVE to have in order to get the job done? I plan to do it over the weekend > and into Monday if I have to. Seems like things usually take longer than > expected when you have to run and get something or wait on parts. You'll also need a relatively large drill bit - and suitably powerful drill to drive it - to make the bolt hole in the bottom of the strut casings. I believe that I used 9/16". H&R's web site has instructions on how much to trip the bump stops on each shock. When you reassemble the struts, make sure that the large washer immediately under the strut hats has its conical side upward. Otherwise the strut bearings will bind. Also make sure not to omit the original special spacer that fits under this washer. It has a conical hole on the lower side which mates to the conical step on the shock shaft. The Koni drawing doesn't show this part, but if you leave it out the large conical washer will break. The cleanest way to stop the Koni shaft from turning while you tighten the nut is to make a special tool (this is from an idea by Bob Stommel). Newer Konis have a hex end on the shaft to fit a small socket (older versions have flats). With a bench grinder, grind a pair of flats on either side of your 22mm socket so that the outside can be gripped with an open end wrench. Feed a 3/8" drive extension through the 22mm socket from the top, and attach a socket to fit the Koni shaft. Thread on the shaft nut by hand, then engage the 3/8" drive socket on the shaft end; drop the 22mm socket down over them. Now you can hold the shaft stationary with a ratchet handle on the extension, while tightening the shaft nut using an open ended wrench on your modified 22mm socket. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: Rear Sway Bar Links - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 18:41:13 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rear Sway Bar Links on 3/13/01 1:07 PM, "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> wrote: >> Does anyone know of some rear sway bar links that don't rattle? The >> spherical bearings on my uuc links are a little too loose and they rattle >> constantly. As for the fronts, Ground Control has some very solid links, >> but >> they don't have any rear links available yet. > > my stock BMW rear sway bar links never rattled. ;-) Stock rear links can't be used with aftermarket bars, since the lower attachment method is different. However I have UUC links and they don't rattle. I'd check to make sure all bolts are properly tightened. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. shop nazi's - from Jeff Stowe
Top
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:33:38 -0800 From: Jeff Stowe <jrstowe@pacbell.net> Subject: shop nazi's Sean, Of course, you are right on and your point is very well taken. I was just venting frustration at having to spend more money for an already expensive track weekend (had to retire the Snell 90 helmet for Snell 2000 this week also). And, due to time constraints (which is my own fault), having to pay someone else to do a project which actually fell within my limited mechanical/tool supply capabilities. Anyway, new rotors, pads, and super blue are installed, car is signed off, got my new brain bucket and am ready to get some good lap instruction (I need it!). jeff > Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 22:45:08 -0800 > From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bedding OEM Pads & Stock rotors > > >The local shop nazi's have siezed my > >car and will not give me a tech sign off for sears point without new rotors > >and pads. > > those tech guys are there for your safety AND mine. i don't want your car > on the track if it can't stop. > > you can (well... i can...) go through an entire set of brake pads > (ESPECIALY street pads) in one day at the track. so if you're even kinda > close to needing brakes, they're CORRECT to demand that you change them > before a track event. > > when i instruct, before i get into a car i look it over. (i tech it myself) > and i look at the brakes and rotors and tires first. if they're even > "sketchy" i won't get in that car. this is NOT the place to be less then > 100%... > > i suppose you can, if you want, put the old ones back on for some more > street driving after your track day.