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#1. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter Replacement and Power Steering - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:47:44 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jimbassett@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Filter Replacement and Power Steering Questions At 03:07 PM 3/18/01, Preston Carey wrote: >2) My power steering fluid reservoir is leaking (can someone confirm that >this is indeed the reservoir market (ATF Fluid only) directly behind the >alternator, Bentley manual isn't entirely clear) Yes, that's the reservoir. > which is not a huge problem >since I am under warranty for a couple hundred more miles. The dealer can't >get me in for a couple of weeks...what happens if the reservoir runs dry >beyond the loss of power steering? Will this hurt anything? I don't believe it will hurt anything. I had a leak from the hoses at the bottom of the reservoir not too long ago, and there wasn't too much concern from my mechanic about if it went dry before I got in. He suggested checking it every day & topping off with ATF fluid (I had some D4 ATF on hand that I used). Also, see if the dealer will replace the crimp-type hose clamps on the two hoses with regular hose clamps. This was the of my small leak - so far so good <knock on wood>. >Does anyone >know the app. volume of the reservoir so I can take a WAG at my time till >empty? Not sure, but the volume from the low to high mark on the dipstick was maybe a couple of tablespoons - it didn't take much to get to the high mark. > What is the recommended fluid to be using to add to the reservoir? ATF. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Water Wetter - from Jim Powell
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Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 22:00:11 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Water Wetter You hate your cooling system? Think you don't have enough cooling capacity now? Wait till the system starts filling up with corrosion. Jim Bill Lackey wrote: > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:20:12 -0800 > From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> > Subject: Water Wetter > > What does everybody think about running pure H20 and water wetter without > antifreeze. I run at Thunderhill in the summer 100+ days sometimes, and I > would like the extra cooling capacity with the supercharger. Redline quotes > as having superior corrosion restance than Antifreeze, and water has much > better cooling properties. The car never sees freezing conditions, and this > would be a summer only setup. > > Bill Lackey > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 01:32:50 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) For optimal cooling with water wetter I think you want as little gycol based coolant as possible in the mix. I may be wrong on the "no coolant" part but that is how you have to run race bikes at the track. Oil can be cleaned up but collant is just a mess and causes everyone wanting to have fun to fall down. ;) Check with the company that makes it as I am probably off my rocker. :) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bora Akyol [mailto:akyol@akyol.org] Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 12:47 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:45:46 -0800 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) I humbly disagree. I ran waterwetter in two cars with the factory recommended anti-freeze combo: VW Corrado G60 (also supercharged and with an overdrive pulley making 16psi of boost, yes 16 ;-) Porsche 928 S4 (no power improvements needed) In both cars, I did get the water temp reduction and no immediate or long term (2 years) ill effects. The Corrado lived in CA, MA and AZ and no problems. Your mileage may vary. See the following URL for more details (Redline web site seems to be down) http://www.data-detective.com/overclock/redline_water_wetter.htm Bora > From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> > Reply-To: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 23:37:06 -0600 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) > > Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 00:33:35 -0500 > From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Water Wetter (don't mix with anything but water) > > If your remember to flush the system if you are going to see freezing temps > then that is the way to go. Water Wetter is NOT intended to be used with > antifreeze... you can get away without quick and disastrous effect with most > antifreeze types but some can be quite nasty. Read that bottle. ;) > > The stuff does work... I run it with my supercharger. > > Dave Spragg > dave@spragg.com > Natick, MA > 99 M3 Sharked > 92 330is Sharked and Supercharged (undergoing surgery) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Lackey [mailto:btlackey@hotmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 12:27 AM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Water Wetter > > > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 21:20:12 -0800 > From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> > Subject: Water Wetter > > What does everybody think about running pure H20 and water wetter without > antifreeze. I run at Thunderhill in the summer 100+ days sometimes, and I > would like the extra cooling capacity with the supercharger. Redline quotes > as having superior corrosion restance than Antifreeze, and water has much > better cooling properties. The car never sees freezing conditions, and this > would be a summer only setup. > > Bill Lackey > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#4. Polyurethane bushing squeak question - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 07:03:50 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Polyurethane bushing squeak question I've got a suspension noise that someone more experienced than I says is the poly bushings on my RD Sport sway bars. Does anyone who has a similar setup want to take a stab at describing what they sound like when they are making noise? Also, is the fix just to remove and regrease? The noise only occurs with sharp bumps or sharp suspension extension. Also, I remember someone mentioning bushings that had grease fittings. Who makes them and do they have diameters for aftermarket sways? Thanks in advance, Jeremy Lucas 95 M3-RD Sport sways with poly bushings, bilstein sports, H&R
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#5. M3 E36 problem - from Dimitris Cobopoulos
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 14:29:26 +0200 From: "Dimitris Cobopoulos" <jimcob@iis.gr> Subject: M3 E36 problem Dear friends, In my M3 E36 sudenly there is a delay (miss) when I accelerate therefore I kindly request you to forward me your point of view. Best Regards, Dimitris
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose PN's - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 04:56:42 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power Steering Hose PN's (1) Intake Manifold 32 41 1 138 419 (2) Hollow bolts M16x28 32 41 1 117 182 (4) Sealing rings A16x22 32 41 1 093 597 (1) Hose clamp 07 12 9 952 109 (1) Pressure Hose Assembly 32 41 1 141 953 (2) Hollow bolt M14x1, 5x26 11 36 1 740 290 (4) Sealing ring A14x20 32 41 1 093 596 (1) Return Pipe with Cooling coil 32 41 2 228 284 (1) Hose clamp D=16, 6-20mm 16 12 1 180 242 (2) Hex Bolt M6x10 07 11 9 931 426 That's doing a quick search...not sure if you need them all, or if these are all you need. Chester --- shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 19:11:28 -0500 > From: shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com > Subject: Power Steering Hose PN's > > Chester posted a post from Jonathan: > Parts and tools you may need if you want to replace hoses: > * P/S Intake Manifold hose to the pump > * P/S cooler return line to the resivoir > * 1qt of ATF DexronIII/Mercon > * 2 or 4 crush washers > * 2 or 3 clamps > * 10mm socket > * 22mm socket or wrench > * Pair of dikes to remove factory clamps > * Long funnel > > I'd like to know if anybody has the part numbers for the hoses and what > size crush washers and clamps I need to affect this repair. After having > seen two cars lose power steering hoses at VIR right in front of me (it > does a real doozy on your windsheild when this happens, and wipers don't > improve it one bit) I want to take care of this. Also, are there any > special considerations, other than the bleeding procedure, for replacing > either of these hoses? I've done this on my 5 car, but never on an E36. > The car had a puddle of Power Steering Fluid underneath it when I took it > out of the garage to wash it on Saturday, so I figure it's about time to > get this done ASAP since I have another school in two weeks. > > Thanks, > > Shane Kleinpeter > Tarheel Chapter > '96 M3 > '8 535is > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#7. Re: Power Steering Hose PN's - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:20:51 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Power Steering Hose PN's on 3/19/01 10:37 PM, shane.a.kleinpeter@accenture.com wrote: > I'd like to know if anybody has the part numbers for the hoses and what > size crush washers and clamps I need to affect this repair. There are three PS hose systems: Description P/N Qty ========================== =============== === - Reservoir to PS pump LP hose 32 41 1 138 419 1 Banjo bolt (M16x28) 32 41 1 117 182 1 Crush washer (A16x22-CUSN) 32 41 1 093 597 2 Hose clamp (L18-24) 07 12 9 952 109 1 - Pump to rack HP hose 32 41 1 141 953 1 Banjo bolt (M14x1.5x26) 11 36 1 740 290 2 Crush washer (A14x20-CUSN) 32 41 1 093 596 4 - Rack to reservoir LP return hose 32 41 2 228 284 1 Hose clamp (D=16.6-20) 16 12 1 180 242 1 Banjo bolt (M16x28) 32 41 1 117 182 1 Crush washer (A16x22-CUSN) 32 41 1 093 597 2 I've broken the parts list down into independent groups, although you'll notice that a couple of the parts are common. Combine the quantities from each group if you're doing the whole thing. I assume that for the crush washers you'd decode (A16x22-CUSN) as follows: ID = 16mm OD = 22mm Material = Copper (chemical symbol Cu) Finish = Tin plate (chemical symbol Sn) but you might as well just order the BMW parts and not worry. Same for the banjo bolts, which I'd suggest replacing just in case one gets damaged on disassembly. There's also been some discussion of uprating the hose clamps to a heavier design. Since clamps are only used on the low pressure hoses, it doesn't seem to me as if that would make much difference. Neil 96 M3
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#8. Door Molding - from Jonathan Evans
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:51:03 -0500 From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> Subject: Door Molding David, Stick a penny or nickel behind the clip between the molding and the flat white part of the clip. It forces the 2 prong pieces to spread apart, creating more holding force in the little prophylactic thing. I know it's an expensive proceedure, but it's worked for several listers. My inherent cheapness is now becoming famous. I didn't even want to buy a $0.90 piece. Jonathan Evans 95 M3 <original message> > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 14:25:35 -0800 > From: "david tow" <> > Subject: Door Molding > > Hi, all, > > I had a loose door mount on the left side of my 95 M3 coupe. Upon > inspection, I found out that the rubber insert on the last clip close to the > door's edge was shot. I went to my local dealer and got a fresh piece of > rubber insert and put things in order. The last clip got inserted back to > the hole very nicely. But now I've noticed that the top of the molding (in > the middle) has a noticeable gap that easily invites dust to get inside the > mounting area. It looks to me that the molding might be slightly distorted, > or one of the clips does not grab the molding back in well enough. I don't > think I bent it with force, since I did it with great care. But, again, the > loose molding was probably waving slightly in the air to cause enough force > to distort it on the way to work. > > What should I look into to fix this? Does that mean I might have to replace > some clips? When taking out the old clip, what tool should I use? Or > should I just pull it out with some force? > > Help! > __ __ > David Tow / / / / | / | ______ > 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o > Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) > david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] > > >
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#9. 300hp e36 M3 Kit - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 11:00:51 -0500 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@INTERLIANT.COM> Subject: 300hp e36 M3 Kit Please post more info, I'm also VERY interested in this kit. Thanks, Luis BMWCCA member '95 M3 '88 M5 -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 20:04:48 -0800 From: "Bradley J. Otoupalik" <otoupalik@pobox.com> Subject: 300hp e36 M3 Kit I will get the car re-dyno'ed with better charts ASAP and show you guys! They dyno charts are mine as is the car! Jim, Josh and I cam up with this kit with Will's suggestion for the cams. The software is the real key - so the thanks goes to Jim! We will have more information on this kit and our car ASAP! Bradley J. Otoupalik evosport inc.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Door Molding - from Jim Powell
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:02:35 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Door Molding Use something plastic. Door moldings are exposed to moisture. Using a dissimilar metal touching the car's body can lead to corrosion. Galvanic action and all that 8th grade physics stuff. Jim Jonathan Evans wrote: > Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 10:51:03 -0500 > From: "Jonathan Evans" <jonathanevans@hotmail.com> > Subject: Door Molding > > David, > Stick a penny or nickel behind the clip between the molding and the flat > white part of the clip. It forces the 2 prong pieces to spread apart, > creating more holding force in the little prophylactic thing. > I know it's an expensive proceedure, but it's worked for several > listers. > My inherent cheapness is now becoming famous. I didn't even want to buy > a $0.90 piece. > Jonathan Evans > 95 M3 > > <original message> > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > > Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 14:25:35 -0800 > > From: "david tow" <> > > Subject: Door Molding > > > > Hi, all, > > > > I had a loose door mount on the left side of my 95 M3 coupe. Upon > > inspection, I found out that the rubber insert on the last clip close to > the > > door's edge was shot. I went to my local dealer and got a fresh piece of > > rubber insert and put things in order. The last clip got inserted back to > > the hole very nicely. But now I've noticed that the top of the molding > (in > > the middle) has a noticeable gap that easily invites dust to get inside > the > > mounting area. It looks to me that the molding might be slightly > distorted, > > or one of the clips does not grab the molding back in well enough. I > don't > > think I bent it with force, since I did it with great care. But, again, > the > > loose molding was probably waving slightly in the air to cause enough > force > > to distort it on the way to work. > > > > What should I look into to fix this? Does that mean I might have to > replace > > some clips? When taking out the old clip, what tool should I use? Or > > should I just pull it out with some force? > > > > Help! > > __ __ > > David Tow / / / / | / | ______ > > 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o > > Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) > > david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Re: 300hp Conforti Cam Kit - from Josh
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:16:26 -0700 From: Josh <eurosprt@xmission.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 300hp Conforti Cam Kit At 04:48 PM 3/19/01 -0600, John Van Houten wrote: >Is there a dyno chart that shows both torque and HP? The one on the Turner >site shows only HP. > >Thanks >John There aren't any dyno charts of the cam kit that show the torque. The ignition/rpm pickup was not working with Brad's car. I tried several times between dyno runs to get the pickup to work, but couldn't get it to pickup signal. The rpm pickup is a must for dyno-jet to calculate torque. I am hoping in the near future to redo the dyno runs with a cam'ed car so that we can all have torque results. Josh MacMurray Eurosport Your source for Jim Conforti / Landshark products Shark Injectors and Shark Intake Systems Phone 801 886 2185 fax 801 886 2189 www.sharkinfested.com
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#12. Pilot Sports vs. Bridgestone S-02 PP vs Goodyear GS-D2 - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 11:16:36 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Pilot Sports vs. Bridgestone S-02 PP vs Goodyear GS-D2 Street tire choices: I am looking for feedback from those of you that have had 2 or more of these tires....I am finally getting around to replacing the OEM MXX3s and I am going to be buying 4 new street tires (I have R-compounds for the track). My priorities are (in order of importance): 1) Wet Traction 2) Tread Life 3) Low Noise 4) Dry Traction Is there anything to justify paying $45/tire more for the Pilot Sports compared to the S-02 PPs? For those of you that have had the Goodyears - are they even close to the other two? Thanks, John '95 M3 - trying to pass state inspection!!