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#1. Clutch Bleeding Question - from kmcleaster@iquest.net
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:13:17 -0500 From: kmcleaster@iquest.net Subject: Clutch Bleeding Question How necessary is it to remove the slave cylinder from the transmission to properly bleed the clutch? (Per Bentley Manual) If it does need to come out, is it necessary to re-lube the pushrod? What are the lubricant options for the pushrod if removal is necessary? Thanks, Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI '95 M3 Arctic Silver
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#2. Solid Valve Lifters - from Lew Becker
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:15:29 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Solid Valve Lifters "Boys in girls" ? Sounds like someone was more into the jigglies wearing sweatshirts than lifters, catastrophic accidents, etc. Good to see that someone's keeping his priorities straight. Lew ----- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:23:20 -0800 > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Solid Valve Lifters > > And that, boys in girls, is why Chester is doomed to a life of catastrophic > accidents leading to his inevitable confinement to a Yugo wheelchair. :) > > Jim > Cloudy in San Diego so all the jigglies are wearing sweatshirts :( > > Chester Wong wrote:Thanks for the info. I was always under the impression that > the cam lobe was > > > in constant contact with the top of the valve and that the valve springs push > > the valve against the cam to follow it after the "high" part of the lobe spins > > past. I also thought that when valve float occurs, the valve springs resonate > > such that they are not able to push the valve against the cam lobe... Hmmmm > >
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#3. Re: Solid Valve Lifters - from Jim Powell
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:19:05 -0800 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: Solid Valve Lifters Freudian slip? ;) Jim Lew Becker wrote: > "Boys in girls" ? Sounds like someone was more into the jigglies wearing > sweatshirts than lifters, catastrophic accidents, etc. Good to see that > someone's keeping his priorities straight. > > Lew > ----- Original Message ----- > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > > Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:23:20 -0800 > > From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Solid Valve Lifters > > > > And that, boys in girls, is why Chester is doomed to a life of > catastrophic > > accidents leading to his inevitable confinement to a Yugo wheelchair. :) > > > > Jim > > Cloudy in San Diego so all the jigglies are wearing sweatshirts :( > > > > Chester Wong wrote:Thanks for the info. I was always under the impression > that > > the cam lobe was > > > > > in constant contact with the top of the valve and that the valve springs > push > > > the valve against the cam to follow it after the "high" part of the lobe > spins > > > past. I also thought that when valve float occurs, the valve springs > resonate > > > such that they are not able to push the valve against the cam lobe... > Hmmmm > > > >
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#4. Convex Lug Bolt Socket - from Steve D'Gerolamo
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:27:32 -0500 From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <steved3@idt.net> Subject: Convex Lug Bolt Socket Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 15:03:49 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation What socket should I use to not scratch/chip/flake/etc off the chrome coating on the Fikse lug bolts? The aluminum type ones? I know that impact sockets wrenches are way out of the question (and I'll probably swap to the OE ones when it goes to the dealer or in for service, etc). TIA, Chester ================================================= You can try a Facom NSB17 convex design lug socket. This will contact the flats of the bolt and not the corners where the chrome is more likely to flake off. No guarantee that it wont but its worth a try. SD (PS- you might want to contact Fikse and see what they recommend) ================================== Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage - Tel 201-262-0412
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Fuel Problem - from Jason Bishop
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:28:01 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Bishop <jason@secondhat.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Fuel Problem On Wed, 21 Mar 2001, Chester Wong wrote: > car any favors. But it could also be a seal problem. Anyway, what I always do > is as soon as the filler nozzle pops, I take it out. If a service attendant is > filling the car (damn Jersey), I tell them that it's okay not to top it off. > I'll never have this problem... I always fill up half a tank or so. Car gets too slow with a full tank :) drive safely... actually, forget drive safely... drive sideways! Jason PS: I'm not kidding. If I had more gas stations I would always put 5 gallons at a time instead of 8 or 9 I do now... PPS: know what sucks? My 90lb girlfriend on a empty tank has the opporunity for the most fun in the car... but does she take advantage? nope.
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#6. Rollbar Installer - from ERogers005@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 23:16:51 EST From: ERogers005@aol.com Subject: Rollbar Installer At long last (almost a year) I have an approximate delivery date in April for my TC Kline rollbar. Would any of you recommend an installer in the SF Bay area with experience with this installation? Thanks in advance. Ed Rogers 95 M3
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#7. Re: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 04:39:03 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation Chester, My neighbor has a set of three sockets (part # 77145 from Griot$, for only $42.95) that have plastic outer coatings to protect the finish on lug bolt holes in the wheels, and plastic "disks" inside the sockets to protect the finish on the lug bolt heads. They looked very nice, and came in a special box. He was very proud of his purchase. The first time he used a socket, he had problems when he couldn't remove the socket from the lug nut. I think that he may have had the socket slightly crooked when he torqued the bolt, so the outer plastic coating wedged against the lug hole in the wheel. He ended up taking some channel locks to the socket to remove it, and put some nice gouges and scratches on his beautiful "socket". He was using a torque wrench, so it wasn't the case of over-torquing the bolts. I think that chrome coatings will always be more susceptible to damage than anodized coatings. -rb >Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 15:03:49 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Subject: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation > >What socket should I use to not scratch/chip/flake/etc off the chrome >coating on the Fikse lug bolts? The aluminum type ones? I know that >impact sockets wrenches are way out of the question (and I'll probably swap >to the OE ones when it goes to the dealer or in for service, etc). > >TIA, >Chester _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. Re: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation - from Chester Wong
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Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:44:12 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Looking for chrome lug bolt socket recommendation --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > The first time he used a socket, he had problems when he couldn't remove the > socket from the lug nut. I think that he may have had the socket slightly > crooked when he torqued the bolt, so the outer plastic coating wedged > against the lug hole in the wheel. He ended up taking some channel locks to > the socket to remove it, and put some nice gouges and scratches on his > beautiful "socket". ACK! Wow...I'm always amazed when I flip through the pages of Griot$ catalog. It seems like they're trying to make a push selling Facom tools as well. > I think that chrome coatings will always be more susceptible to damage than > anodized coatings. Well, then what's a good plan of action if you want shiny metal looking lub bolts? Anodization only works for aluminum, right? What material is the OE one made of? They look like crap after much use and handling from technicians with impact wrenches. Is it possible to make them out of chromoly so that they wouldn't rust? Then polish the living crap out of them to give them a nice shine? Probably putting way too much thought into it, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Solid Valve Lifters - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 05:03:44 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Solid Valve Lifters Mark, The purpose of the valve springs is to close the valves. The cam pushes the valve open by applying force at one end of the cam follower, and the other end of the cam follower pushes on the valve stem against the force of the valve spring, opening the valve. As the cam lobe peak passes, the valve spring pushes the valve closed. A hydraulic cam follower has a dynamic length that changes as it is pumped up with oil. The dynamic nature of the hydraulic cam follower eliminates the need to perform valve adjustments (adjusting the clearance between the cam lobe and the cam follower). When the hydraulic cam follower can no longer pump up to the proper length to eliminate the gap between the cam lobe, it needs to be replaced. It's also the reason why your engine may tick for a few seconds when it's started in the morning, or after a hard autox run. Until oil pumps up the hydraulic cam follower and it "grows" to eliminate the gap, you'll hear the cam lobes "smacking" the cam followers. The dynamic nature of the hydraulic cam follower also compensates for wear in the valve train. Solid cam followers have a fixed length, and valve adjustments must be performed periodically to compensate for wear. Adjustments are performed by using a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the cam followers and the cam lobes, and inserting shims on the ends of the cam followers to change the clearance. Unless you can adjust these yourself, expect to pay a healthy price for a mechanic to adjust them. Remember, the engine has 24 valves that will need to be checked and adjusted. Because a hydraulic cam follower is filled with oil, it also has a "squish" factor which limits the upper RPM range that the engine can achieve. Think of it this way: a solid cam follower will directly and immediately transfer the cam lobe force to the valve, while the hydraulic cam follower will compress (very slightly) before it transfers the cam lobe force to the valve. At high enough RPMs, that slight "delay" in transferring force to the valve can change the valve timing enough to cause problems. If you have the Bentley service manual, take a look at the section on cam replacement, and you'll see a diagram showing the cam lobe, cam follower, valve, valve spring. It'll be much clearer with a picture to study. -rb >Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 00:15:52 -0000 >From: "Mark Radelow" <radelow@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Solid Valve Lifters > >The purpose of the valve springs is to prevent valve float. If the valves >float (which can occur on any car and high enough rpm) the valves will stay >open long enough to come into contact with the piston. That's what happens >when you overrev a M3 engine (or a 2.0l 16v engine....10,000rpm >baby...BOOM!) > >Mark _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#10. Re: M3 specimin - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 05:08:12 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: M3 specimin *ack* *caugh* *choke* *spew* *heave* Whew! The only thing missing from this horrendous M3 is a Zeemax body kit. I would have rather spent the $100k on a 993 Turbo! -rb >Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 13:34:32 -0600 >From: "Joe Kannookadan" <joe.kannookadan@sourcelight.com> >Subject: M3 specimin > >A friend sent me this: it's Alpine's E36 M3. > >http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=345 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com