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#1. Re: [E36M3] Eibach Swaybars - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:51:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Eibach Swaybars LOL! Seems like the folks at Eibach were sleeping during that big batch of sway bars shipped for the GP. I had one correct link and one regular link. Someone else (I forgot who...someone on this list) had the same thing and now you! Call up the group purchase vendor and request a new link. I requested one two days after I picked up my bars and still haven't received it. I guess the boat from Europe is really slow. Chester --- Ron Buchalski <rbuchals@hotmail.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 01:03:31 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Eibach Swaybars > > Today was a nice day, so I decided to install the Eibach swaybars that I > purchased late last year (GP). > > The stock front bar was easily removed, and the Eibach front bar was a > breeze to install. > > The stock rear bar was a bit of a PITA to remove, because of the tight > clearance on the left side. > > When I went to install the Eibach rear bar, I discovered that they shipped > an "incorrect" swaybar link. The links are BMW parts, but they are supposed > to be modified with a metal sleeve inserted in the end that's normally > rubber. A large bolt passes through this end and attaches to the end of the > swaybar. Well, one link is correct, but the other link is a standard > (non-modified) BMW link. > > Now my car sits in the garage, with one swaybar end waiting to be attached. > :-( > > Did anyone other participants in the Group Purchase have a similar > experience? > > I'll be contacting Top Notch in the morning.... > > -rb > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Eibach Swaybars - Rear link - from Tom Tice
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 22:52:37 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Eibach Swaybars - Rear link I had exactly the same situation but mine were sourced from Auto Addictions. I am currently waiting on a replacement from Eibach. Its been about a month so far. In the mean time, I went to Home Depot and found a couple of nylon spacers that were (I think) .75 inches long and the right diameter for the bolt to pass through. With a vice and oil, was ultimately able to press this into the stock link. It was a royal PITA but it went in far enough to work until the replacement arrives. If I could have found an appropriate steel sleeve this would be a permanent solution. With the nylon you can't torque down on the sleeve very much without crushing it. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 > When I went to install the Eibach rear bar, I discovered that > they shipped > an "incorrect" swaybar link. The links are BMW parts, but they > are supposed > to be modified with a metal sleeve inserted in the end that's normally > rubber. A large bolt passes through this end and attaches to the > end of the > swaybar. Well, one link is correct, but the other link is a standard > (non-modified) BMW link. > > Now my car sits in the garage, with one swaybar end waiting to be > attached. > :-( >
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Conversion to HK sound system - from Matt Henson
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:56:32 -0700 (PDT) From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Conversion to HK sound system I'd like to think that there's an intermediate step between 0 and $1500. For $300 you can replace the amp, woofers and crossovers. The tweets and midrange are decent. You might want to go ahead and replace the speakers with a 2 or 3 way component set to simplify amplifying them (the stock speakers have 1 channel per speaker where most components have 1 channel per 2 or 3 speakers). Yes you'll have to splice into the wiring (or find an adapter). But it'll probably sound better than the HK system. The Stock head unit's CD player is fine. It could stand a little more output voltage and the FM tuner is a POS. You can spend another $300 to get a decent head unit if it's important to you. If you're creative with installing stuff yourself or know someone who is then you can get some great gear on Ebay these days. I just picked up a brand new 4x40 PPI amp for $140. You can get a set of decent component speakers for $100 new. A JL stealthbox is a good way to add some bass. I bought mine new for like $250 on Ebay. I'll use 2 channels for a set of componets up front and 2 for the subs. Total investment will be ~$500-$600 + a long afternoon of installation. And I guarantee it will sound just fine. A lot of professional installers see the BMW logo and go nuts with the prices. If you're just looking for something decent then it can be done. Regards, Matt --- Juan Carlos Bruce-Novoa <jbruce@stanford.edu> wrote: > Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 13:55:02 -0700 (PDT) > From: Juan Carlos Bruce-Novoa <jbruce@stanford.edu> > Subject: Conversion to HK sound system > > Hi guys, > > I'm finally getting fed up with the terrible stock > '95 M3 sound system. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Rattle from shock tower - Sway Bar Links? - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:56:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rattle from shock tower - Sway Bar Links? Perhaps you need to lube the bars even more. Hopefully you didn't use just what was included with the bars as that was a joke. About the links that you can make on the UUC site, I've been told that the develop slop pretty soon. Just a little bit of slop and you'll start hearing worse sounds than what you're hearing now. Again, what I've heard is that those special heim (sp?) joints should be considered consumables. Relube and perhaps wrap with teflon tape as well and see what happens. Chester --- Tom Tice <tetice@triad.rr.com> wrote: > Interesting, my car has the developed the same symptom after a few weeks > (and a driver school) with the new Eibachs. It rattles over any small > bump - especially one affecting only one side of the car so I was suspecting > the sway bar links. > > This weekend I jacked it up and pushed and pulled on everything in the front > suspension but nothing really seems loose. However, if I pound the sway bar > with the heel of my hand, I can induce a similar sound. > > The links appear tight and secure. I understand the front sway bar links > are a common item to fail but I thought it would be a catastrophic failure. > Is this just the first sign. > > Any recommendations on an improved replacement? I have seen the > plans/instructions by Ben Liaw for building your own on the UUC site > (http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ -click on Tech Tips - then sway bar links) - > cost wise is that worth the effort versus buying someone else's > pre-assembled? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#5. Re: [E36M3] 8.5 inch front wheels - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:09:10 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] 8.5 inch front wheels > Anyone here running Fikse (or any 37.7mm offset) 8.5 inch wheels up > front? Are you using spacers and if so, what brand? Yup, I'm running those Fikse (fm10's) on my stock suspended '97 M3 on all 4 corners. No rubbing front (or rear) with 245/40/17 Toyo Proxes T1-S tires. Time to get those replaced so I can put the Fikse's back on! Andrej
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Rattle from shock tower - Sway Bar Links? - from Tom Tice
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:15:43 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rattle from shock tower - Sway Bar Links? > > Perhaps you need to lube the bars even more. Hopefully you > didn't use just > what was included with the bars as that was a joke. About the > links that you I don't think lubing the bars has anything to do with this problem. I'm pretty familiar with the sound of dry urethane bushings - this is not it. With the front end up in the air I was able to push/lever the sway bar (and both front wheels) up and down about an inch with not so much as a peep from the bushings. Regarding the quantity of the lube. You really can't get very much lube inside of these bushings. If you used all that came with the Eibachs, you quickly found that about 50% of it got squeezed out from the ends - putting more in to start with would just leave a bigger mess. IMHO its not the quantity of lube in there, its the uniform coating that seems to matter - and eventually they will go dry and need to be relubed. Also the lube that Eibach supplies seems to be gooiest stuff I've ever encountered - I suspect it is that way for a reason. Anybody know what that stuff is? Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6
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#7. Re: Conversion to HK sound system - from S Lafredo
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:30:38 -0400 From: S Lafredo <slafredo@fast.net> Subject: Re: Conversion to HK sound system What I did was visit my local retailer/installer who told me that they install a MB Quarts system in a BMW every few weeks. I said fine, next time someone installs a MB Quarts system call me and ask the fellow if I can listen to his new stereo. The store called ~1 week later. *I* did not like the sound at all but remember speakers tastes are a VERY subjective. HTH. S On 4/8/01 at 2:59 PM, Juan Carlos Bruce-Novoa <jbruce@stanford.edu> wrote: : Does anyone in the Silicon Valley area have an MB Quart set-up I could : listen to for comparison?
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#8. Using a torch on stainless - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:32:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Using a torch on stainless How hard is it? Long story...and I'm quite tired of it. But basically I now have a gen III AA exhaust on the car. The tips appear to be droopy and pointed to the left. I'd like to make them point straight back. So...is it even possible to get the metal (weld) hot enough? What type of torch? Will I discolor the stainless of the can? TIA, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless - from F. Graziano
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Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 23:46:37 -0400 From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless aren't they tilted like that so they won't melt the rear valence? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chester Wong" <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 2339 Subject: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless > Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:32:54 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Using a torch on stainless > > How hard is it? Long story...and I'm quite tired of it. But basically I now > have a gen III AA exhaust on the car. The tips appear to be droopy and pointed > to the left. I'd like to make them point straight back. > > So...is it even possible to get the metal (weld) hot enough? What type of > torch? Will I discolor the stainless of the can? > > TIA, > Chester > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:55:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless Naw. The old gen I unit I had pointed straight back. I think they didn't get jiggy with their jig and the new units don't fit as well. Unfortunately, I didn't have my old exhaust to even compare it to, but if I remember correctly, the older can was also narrower. Chester --- "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> wrote: > Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 23:46:37 -0400 > From: "F. Graziano" <fgraziano@monmouth.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Using a torch on stainless > > aren't they tilted like that so they won't melt the rear valence? > > > > How hard is it? Long story...and I'm quite tired of it. But basically I > now > > have a gen III AA exhaust on the car. The tips appear to be droopy and > pointed > > to the left. I'd like to make them point straight back. > > > > So...is it even possible to get the metal (weld) hot enough? What type of > > torch? Will I discolor the stainless of the can? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/