-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: Eibach Swaybars - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 23:38:31 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Eibach Swaybars [adding M3 Digest, since others may be interested] Mark, I don't have the replacement link yet. I just discovered the problem yesterday, when I was installing the swaybars. Only one of my swaybar links lacked the metal sleeve. Did you buy your Eibach swaybars from Top Notch Auto (group purchase from the M3 Digest)? About two hours ago I spoke with Rob at Top Notch. He said that he contacted Eibach about this, and was going to instruct them to send a pair of the CORRECT links to me, as well as several others who contacted him. The interesting thing? Rob said that the reason the swaybars were held up in Germany so long was BECAUSE OF THE LACK OF SWAYBAR LINKS! So, Eibach must have decided to ship the swaybars with stock links (not modified links), and let us figure it out. I guess the markup (from the group price of $300) covers having a German craftsman insert metal sleeves into the factory links? duh... I'm still waiting for an update from Rob... -rb >From: "Zenz, Mark [JJMI-AR]" <MZENZ2@MEDUS.JNJ.com> >To: "'rbuchals@hotmail.com'" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> >Subject: Eibach Swaybars >Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:47:26 -0400 > >Rob, > >Mine did not have the metal inserts either. I was wondering if they were >suppose to. It is a pain in the ass to push and twist the bolt through the >rubber bushing. Both of my rear bushings had NO metal inserts. Who did >you talk to to get the right swaybar links? > >Thanks, > >Mark Zenz _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. RE: Eibach Swaybars - Rear link - from Tom Tice
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:46:01 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: Eibach Swaybars - Rear link Not exactly, I looked the whole store over for a steel one. The only metal one I could find was brass. To get the right internal diameter for the bolt, the brass tube had a too large of an outer diameter - I couldn't get this one to press in. Tom > -----Original Message----- > From: S Lafredo [mailto:slafredo@fast.net] > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 12:03 AM > To: Tom Tice > Cc: E36M3 > Subject: RE: Eibach Swaybars - Rear link > > > HD didn't have a metal tube this size you could cut to size? Might be > eaiser to find than a spacer? But you probably already thought of this, > oh well I already typed this far :) > > On 4/8/01 at 9:00 PM, Tom Tice <tetice@triad.rr.com> wrote: > > : If I could have found an appropriate steel sleeve this would be a > : permanent solution. With the nylon you can't torque down on the > : sleeve very much without crushing it.
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: Battery replacement timing - from Ron Buchalski
Top
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 23:56:44 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Battery replacement timing John, The battery should be replaced when it dies! ;-) Seriously, the battery doesn't have a replacement schedule. I believe that the factory battery is rated for 36 months, so anything beyond that (or whatever it is) is good. With proper care (don't totally discharge it, keep it filled with DISTILLED water, keep the terminals clean, keep it charged, no over-charging, etc), a battery can last five years or more. If you totally discharge a battery that's at (or beyond) it's rated life, you'll cause some permanent damage. You'll be lucky if it accepts a full charge. Once this happens, your best bet is to get it replaced. -rb >Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 10:15:23 -0700 (PDT) >From: John Stoj <John_Stoj@excite.com> >Subject: Battery replacement timing > > >I know it must be in the manual somewhere, but I keep forgetting to look: > >When should the battery be replaced? > >- John S. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: Advice needed on caliper boot damage - from Tom Tice
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:40:10 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Advice needed on caliper boot damage If there is only a small amount of corrosion, I wouldn't replace the entire caliper. The pistons and the caliper can usually be polished up quite easily with a bit of polishing compound and a rag. Make sure to get all of the compound out. If necessary wash/rinse it out thoroughly with brake fluid. I used this method once on a set of calipers from a junk yard that on the surface looked beyond repair. I believe they actually came off of a car that was destroyed by fire. They worked well for multiple track seasons with no problems. Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6 -----Original Message----- From: Vern Anderson [mailto:VAnderson@IVW.com] Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 10:00 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Advice needed on caliper boot damage Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:57:39 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <VAnderson@IVW.com> Subject: Re: Advice needed on caliper boot damage Thanks to Neil and Justin for the messages. I'm going to rebuild the calipers Wednesday night. The place I'm buying the rebuild kits from also has a complete front caliper in stock, so if we discover the caliper piston is damaged/corroded, I'll just replace the entire thing. I'll jut plan on doing this yearly (or more often if needed). Vern Anderson 98 M3/2 ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Anyone else with Conforti ITG Intake System? - from Geof McLaughlin
Top
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 22:09:01 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Anyone else with Conforti ITG Intake System? Installed my Conforti ITG Intake system today on my 1995 BMW M3. Boy, does my car sing now...I feel like I'm in the cockpit of one of those German Touring cars! As I am not exactly use to this sound, the only thing that concerns me is the pattern of this noise. It's almost as if there is a pulsing to the intake noise instead of a smooth, rising crescendo. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? This by the way is usually only under full throttle (sometimes though under partial throttle in certain RPM bands, especially when first pushing the throttle down just a little). I'd love to hear from other Conforti CAI owners on their thoughts on this subject. Thanks. Geof
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Oxygen Sensor - from Don Chaney
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 21:16:45 -0500 From: "Don Chaney" <chaneydon@hotmail.com> Subject: Oxygen Sensor At 58,200 miles the oxygen sensor on my 95 M3 has triggered a check engine light. I am debating doing the repair myself and had a few questions. 1. Is a 22mm wrench sufficient to get the old one off, or do I need a special socket (w/ slot for wires)? 2. Is there any soldering necessary for the wires, or do they just plug in? 3. Favorite/best source for a new sensor? 4. Can the check engine light be reset w/o a special tool on the 95? The local dealer wants 1 hour labor ($95) and $120 for the part. By the way, I just replaced the worn out front rotors. Previous threads on the subject made the job pretty simple, although I did have a problem with the old rotors rusting onto the hub. I used lots of Rost Off and a rubber mallet to get them off. Don
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Koni - adjustment & install questions - from Rob
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:23:07 -0600 From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> Subject: Koni - adjustment & install questions Group, my Koni SA's are going in this weekend and I'm looking for some advice: -What is the best way to adjust the rears? Should I put one end in a vice (gently!) and push in and turn or...? Is is possible to adjust them once in the car? -Do the stock rear bumpstops and boots work on the Koni'?. -Any baseline rebound settings for 400lb springs? Thanks, Rob
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Oxygen Sensor - from NickG
Top
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:33:58 -0500 From: "NickG" <nikog@MediaOne.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oxygen Sensor > 1. Is a 22mm wrench sufficient to get the old one off, or do I need a > special socket (w/ slot for wires)? A special socket would definately be easier. I'm not certain if there's enough room to accomodate a wrench's length. > 2. Is there any soldering necessary for the wires, or do they just plug > in? No soldering required, easy unplug-plug in swap. > 3. Favorite/best source for a new sensor? Try Steve'D @ www.ultimategarage.com . He seems to have reasonable prices. > 4. Can the check engine light be reset w/o a special tool on the 95? Yeah, either disconnect the battery for a few minutes, or just drive with the new O2 sensor. The DME will eventually see the sensor is good and clear the code itself. Nick '95 M3
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Koni - adjustment & install questions - from Chris Teague
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:42:38 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni - adjustment & install questions Rob, I had to use the vice method. I don't think there is any hope of adjusting them on the car, but they are not too difficult to adjust. I set them full stiff, then backed off a little. Then you can adjust the front to suit your needs. I have since switched to DA's, which can easily be adjusted while on the car. I autox the car a lot. For pure street use, you may not want to use full stiff, but actually the ride quality was not that bad. That's my $0.02 Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 7:29 PM Subject: [E36M3] Koni - adjustment & install questions > Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:23:07 -0600 > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > Subject: Koni - adjustment & install questions > > Group, > my Koni SA's are going in this weekend and I'm looking for some advice: > > -What is the best way to adjust the rears? Should I put one end in a vice > (gently!) and push in and turn or...? Is is possible to adjust them once in > the car? > > -Do the stock rear bumpstops and boots work on the Koni'?. > > -Any baseline rebound settings for 400lb springs? > > Thanks, > Rob
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. new owner in bay area seeks enlightenment.. - from San-Ching De
Top
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:10:16 -0700 (PDT) From: San-Ching De <sccdlc@yahoo.com> Subject: new owner in bay area seeks enlightenment.. Hi All, I'm the second owner of a 98 M3/4 and moved to the SF bay area (Sunnyvale) relatively recently. A few BMW CCA-SD instructors suggested that I contact this list. So here are my burning questions that are yet to be answered even after a few hours looking at archives... 1. the previous owner put clears on the taillight but that darn OBC keeps telling me that my taillights are out. Short of buying the correct set of lights that are compatible with OBC, is there another way to rid myself of this message? 2. I go to the odd track event but I don't want to pay a premium labor rate for a straight-forward tech check (mine was $120 and others at the school paid ~$50). Anyone know of a good place? 3. Seeing as my free maintenance expires in a few months, is there a good independent shop for repairs and such? I've been happy at Corporate Auto Works but they seem to be new at BMWs. Dinan does good work I'm told but again, I'll save their labor rates for the really tough jobs. 4. I'm going to bring in my car to Alison BMW to, among other things, try to convince them to replace the leather on my steering wheel (or the entire wheel) under warranty (it might have been Lexol that aggravated the rough leather, I'm not positive - Lexol is good stuff but the folks at Lexol don't recommend using it on the soft leather). Any hints as to how I might convince Alison Thanks very much in advance. I'll try to contribute to the list but my current knowledge is limited to one track school at Laguna Seca, one at Button Willow and I know how a 91 Mazda Protege compares to a E36 M3 ;) Cheers, sccdlc __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/