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#1. Overheating/system bleeding - from Bill Lackey
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Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:52:33 -0700 From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> Subject: Overheating/system bleeding I went to Thunderhill last weekend, after installing my oil cooler, and experienced severe water overheating. The car sprayed its coolant all over the engine compartment. I suspected the shop that installed it for me did not bleed the system fully, so I endeavored to bleed the system. I filled the catch tank full, and then ran the car for several minutes, turned off the car and used the bleeder screw to bleed the system. I did this several times, until only water came out. After doing this the car would make it three laps and then overheat. If I bleed the system I could go another three laps and so on. After the event I was able to drive the car 150 miles home with no problems. I just changed the water pump and thermostat today, but both looked to be in good condition. The water pump was plastic. At this point I have two questions: 1) What is the “proper way to bleed the system. 2) What is the possibility the head gasket is blown. No oil was in the coolant or vice-versa. Bill Lackey _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#2. UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation - from Jim Powell
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Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:21:05 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation Want a big one? Well, do ya? The boys at UUC Motorwerks have one for you :) http://www.apexcone.com/Clutch/ClutchStop/ClutchStop.html There are 10 pictures, click on the above link and go get coffee :) Jim
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding - from Joe Dyer
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Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:32:29 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Bill, Are you Supercharged or turbocharged? What year is your car? I assume 95 since the water pump impeller was plastic. Have you ever replaced the radiator cap? It was a recall item on 95s. I can usually go about 40 minutes of track time before I overheat. I am Supercharged which exacerbates the problem. Continuous high revs are HARD on the cooling system. I never have the problem on street driving. After the water pump and thermostat were replaced, did the Low Coolant Level light come on several times over the next few days of street driving? If so it's a sign of poor bleeding by the installer. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 7:02 PM Subject: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding | Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:52:33 -0700 | From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> | Subject: Overheating/system bleeding | | I went to Thunderhill last weekend, after installing my oil cooler, and | experienced severe water overheating. The car sprayed its coolant all over | the engine compartment. I suspected the shop that installed it for me did | not bleed the system fully, so I endeavored to bleed the system. I filled | the catch tank full, and then ran the car for several minutes, turned off | the car and used the bleeder screw to bleed the system. I did this several | times, until only water came out. After doing this the car would make it | three laps and then overheat. If I bleed the system I could go another | three laps and so on. | | After the event I was able to drive the car 150 miles home with no problems. | | I just changed the water pump and thermostat today, but both looked to be in | good condition. The water pump was plastic. | | At this point I have two questions: | | 1) What is the “proper way to bleed the system. | 2) What is the possibility the head gasket is blown. No oil was in the | coolant or vice-versa. | | Bill Lackey | | _________________________________________________________________ | Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message. | ************************************************************* | |
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Alignment in NY/CT area (LONG) - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:01:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alignment in NY/CT area (LONG) I just got back from spending a day at Spencer's Auto in Norristown, PA with Jim El Nabli. I drove about 150 miles to get there just because he is that good. I was going for an alignment and a headlight alignment. I installed the ellipsoids a while ago and then recently retrofitted HIDs and never felt that the aim was correct....no matter how hard I tried in front of a wall. So, my car goes up on the driver up lift and Spencer mounts the alignment heads onto the wheels. He checked the air pressures and settled the car on the sliding plates. I should have obtained a printout...doh! But basically, I had lots of rear toe, camber differed by 1.4, etc, etc. The difference in camber was pretty bad. He drew a picture and explained what all the numbers meant. He said something (you can tell I was paying attention, right? I was too caught up in things) about the camber being off by a lot, but that another similar measure was very close. Therefore, the problem was at the steering knuckle. The trick he used was to loosen one of the bolts holding the steering knuckle to the front strut housing. As soon as he loosened the but, things shifted, but it wasn't good enough. So he pulled out this heavy bracket that mounted to all five lug bolt holes and for one side, used a chain to pull the vertical line inwards and on the other side, used the hydraulic cylinder to push it out. After all was fastened, things were still off by at least .3 or .4. However, when I got into the car, the camber differed by 0.08!!!! He is good. NOTE: When getting into the car, the passenger side tilts inwards more and the driver's side goes more verticle. So things were looking good. The rear toe was described as rolling understeer. It's a safety measure built into the cars so that when you start plowing, the outside wheel gets loaded and the toe helps steering the car. He dialed the rear toe out to a more neutral setting. I also got to fulfill one of those childhood dreams...I sat in the car as it went all the way up the lift as they adjusted the front toe. COOL! +) I took a total of about 3 - 4 hours just to do the alignment....Spencer takes his time! Then Jim had his car aligned while I had my headlights adjusted. There was a Ford SUV in there having its lights inspected and the technician explained to me how the computers and equipment worked. He used a piece of white paper placed directly over the glass to locate the center of the bulb. The machine then had a laser beam that shoots out and you have to align that with the center of the bulb. Cool. So later on, my car is sitting in front of the machine. I fire up the xenons and he goes to put the paper in front of the headlight. I loved his reaction...he threw his head back and muttered, "WHOA!" as he took a few steps back. It was blindingly bright! I had to help him align the machine by using my sunglasses (the only way to comfortably look at the paper)! So just how bright were they? Well, the Ford SUV had something like 11,000 candle power coming out of each lens. I had 26,000 on the driver side and 24,000 out of the passenger side (not sure of the difference...maybe bulb variances). Anyway, that was bright!!!! My hunch was correct, I was shooting beams all over the place. He brought them back to within spec and I was looking very forward to driving at night on the way home. Anyway, Jim and I were there from 9:30am --> 5:00pm. For all of Spencer's service to me, I was charged only $274 + tax. Not bad considering how much attention to detail he always gave. Jim paid about the same, but instead of having to disassemble some of the front end to get the caster to cooperate, he had new front tires installed. Spencer took his time with the wheels. I was very impressed. He let the Hunter tire machine slowly do its work by going 'round and 'round slowly loosening the bead. When it finally popped off, he used a technique that I haven't seen elsewhere (and I have a huge hunch that his is the correct way). The metal crowbar never touched the wheel at all. Very patient man. Not sure if PA is too far for you, but I know you won't be disappointed! No affiliations...just one damn satisfied customer! My car feels so much better now. BTW, Jim has MXX3s in the front and I have Pilot Sports. Man, the MXX3s have so much better of an initial turn in....the Pilot Sports are just plain mushy. Chester --- Steve <maxpsi@optonline.net> wrote: > The roads in this area were particularly bad this winter and I'm feeling a > slight pull to the right and a vibration through the wheel at 70mph-ish. Can > anyone recommend a quality alignment shop in the Westchester Cty, NY/lower > Fairfield Cty, CT area? Would rather not go to the stealer. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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#5. Re: [E36M3] anyone ever fix a rear bumper?? - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 01:27:35 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] anyone ever fix a rear bumper?? Thanks. Good catch. It's obvious what nut you have to remove once you get the diffuser off. I have no idea what purpose this little nut serves. It attaches a flimsy little plastic loop from the bumper to the spare tire well. It has ZERO structural usefulness. All I know is I cussed and fought one time to remove the bumper without removing the diffuser. I practically tore the nut through the plastic loop. I've since left the nut off so I don't have to remove the darn diffuser every time I want to remove the bumper. Lowell Nick writes: > > 3 or 4 plastic push rivets. One off, you will notice a small screw > holding a > > part of the bumper. Take this screw out. Then inside each wheel well you > > Just a bit to add here......the screw that Lowell is talking about is a nut > that attaches the plastic bumper to a stud coming out of the rear of the > spare tire well. > > Nick
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding - from Bill Lackey
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 00:14:34 -0700 From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Joe, I am supercharged. The coolent light did come on once after I got the car back. I filled the tank and had no more problems (until the track). I have not replaced the radiator cap. I will get one asap. Do you know what is the proper procedure for bleeding is? Bill Lackey From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Reply-To: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 23:32:00 -0500 Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:32:29 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Bill, Are you Supercharged or turbocharged? What year is your car? I assume 95 since the water pump impeller was plastic. Have you ever replaced the radiator cap? It was a recall item on 95s. I can usually go about 40 minutes of track time before I overheat. I am Supercharged which exacerbates the problem. Continuous high revs are HARD on the cooling system. I never have the problem on street driving. After the water pump and thermostat were replaced, did the Low Coolant Level light come on several times over the next few days of street driving? If so it's a sign of poor bleeding by the installer. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 7:02 PM Subject: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding | Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:52:33 -0700 | From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> | Subject: Overheating/system bleeding | | I went to Thunderhill last weekend, after installing my oil cooler, and | experienced severe water overheating. The car sprayed its coolant all over | the engine compartment. I suspected the shop that installed it for me did | not bleed the system fully, so I endeavored to bleed the system. I filled | the catch tank full, and then ran the car for several minutes, turned off | the car and used the bleeder screw to bleed the system. I did this several | times, until only water came out. After doing this the car would make it | three laps and then overheat. If I bleed the system I could go another | three laps and so on. | | After the event I was able to drive the car 150 miles home with no problems. | | I just changed the water pump and thermostat today, but both looked to be in | good condition. The water pump was plastic. | | At this point I have two questions: | | 1) What is the “proper way to bleed the system. | 2) What is the possibility the head gasket is blown. No oil was in the | coolant or vice-versa. | | Bill Lackey | | _________________________________________________________________ | Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message. | ************************************************************* | | ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:59:54 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <dspragg@mediaone.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding I experienced this problem as well. After replacing my head gasket the car was spitting out coolant and it wasn't overheating. Got a new 95 cap and problem solved with no further issues after 6 or so track events. To bleed the system don't run the car, just turn the heat on high with the fan on high without the engine running. Watch the bleeder screw hole for bubbles, after your don't see any more for 3 minutes or so you are all set. Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com Natick, MA 99 M3 Sharked 92 330is Sharked and Supercharged -----Original Message----- From: Bill Lackey [mailto:btlackey@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 3:22 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 00:14:34 -0700 From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Joe, I am supercharged. The coolent light did come on once after I got the car back. I filled the tank and had no more problems (until the track). I have not replaced the radiator cap. I will get one asap. Do you know what is the proper procedure for bleeding is? Bill Lackey From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Reply-To: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 23:32:00 -0500 Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:32:29 -0700 From: "Joe Dyer" <joedyer@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding Bill, Are you Supercharged or turbocharged? What year is your car? I assume 95 since the water pump impeller was plastic. Have you ever replaced the radiator cap? It was a recall item on 95s. I can usually go about 40 minutes of track time before I overheat. I am Supercharged which exacerbates the problem. Continuous high revs are HARD on the cooling system. I never have the problem on street driving. After the water pump and thermostat were replaced, did the Low Coolant Level light come on several times over the next few days of street driving? If so it's a sign of poor bleeding by the installer. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 7:02 PM Subject: [E36M3] Overheating/system bleeding | Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:52:33 -0700 | From: "Bill Lackey" <btlackey@hotmail.com> | Subject: Overheating/system bleeding | | I went to Thunderhill last weekend, after installing my oil cooler, and | experienced severe water overheating. The car sprayed its coolant all over | the engine compartment. I suspected the shop that installed it for me did | not bleed the system fully, so I endeavored to bleed the system. I filled | the catch tank full, and then ran the car for several minutes, turned off | the car and used the bleeder screw to bleed the system. I did this several | times, until only water came out. After doing this the car would make it | three laps and then overheat. If I bleed the system I could go another | three laps and so on. | | After the event I was able to drive the car 150 miles home with no problems. | | I just changed the water pump and thermostat today, but both looked to be in | good condition. The water pump was plastic. | | At this point I have two questions: | | 1) What is the “proper way to bleed the system. | 2) What is the possibility the head gasket is blown. No oil was in the | coolant or vice-versa. | | Bill Lackey | | _________________________________________________________________ | Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com | | | ************************************************************* | List Commands | UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. | DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. | GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). | | To issue a command/request to the server: | Send a message with the command you wish executed as the | subject of the message. | ************************************************************* | | ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. ************************************************************* _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#8. euro transplant - from dHoleman@spooze.com
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Date: 14 Apr 2001 07:13:35 -0700 From: dHoleman@spooze.com Subject: euro transplant I am chiming in a little late on this but as Seth and Dan commented there are a lot of hidden issues with a euro motor transplant. These range from not passing emissions to lots of hidden costs. Transplanting a motor means the old motor came from a wreck and you often don't know the history. To play it safe you will have to dump some bucks not only into the installation but you should have things inspected and replaced. It may take about a week to physically get the motor in but you will find that you will be waiting weeks for various parts to come in that you need. Many euro parts are not stocked in the US and most dealers won't order them for you. So not only do you have to figure out what you need you have to find a way to get the parts. Most motors these days are comming from contries with right hand drive. Here is another hidden major cost. You have to convert the wiring loom as all of the ECU and fuse connections need to be swapped to the other side. You will have to splice and extend about 40 different wires of various gauges and them be sure they work. Forget it - I just spent the grand and bought a left hand harness. There are lots of hidden costs and headaches. If you want a track only car that is faster than the new M3 a conversion is challenging way to go. If you want a warrantee and you want to drive the car on the street go with a US spec new M3. By the time you are done you will have spent more - believe me. You can read all about the conversion at www.racepad.com under projects. www.racepad.com
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#9. funny site - from dHoleman@spooze.com
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Date: 14 Apr 2001 07:14:46 -0700 From: dHoleman@spooze.com Subject: funny site If you haven't seen this site you are in for a good laugh. If this guy is for real then it is even funnier. www.rubberburner.com www.racepad.com
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#10. Rear Damper Install - from andytk@speakeasy.net
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:55 -0700 From: andytk@speakeasy.net Subject: Rear Damper Install I'm gonna be putting in new springs/dampers and just checked out the Bentley and its a sayin you have to remove the drive axle. I found write up at www.unofficialbmw.com that mentions nothing about removing the drive axle but it was based on a 325. Am I in for more work then I anticipated or is there some better way of doing it?????