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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 08:05:52 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install You don't have to remove the axle for either of those cars. You sure there aren't a couple of pages stuck together in that book? :) Jim andytk@speakeasy.net wrote: > Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:55 -0700 > From: andytk@speakeasy.net > Subject: Rear Damper Install > > I'm gonna be putting in new springs/dampers and just checked out the Bentley and its a sayin you have to remove the drive axle. I found write up at www.unofficialbmw.com that mentions nothing about removing the drive axle but it was based on a 325. Am I in for more work then I anticipated or is there some better way of doing it????? > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install - from Jim Powell
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 08:12:45 -0700 From: Jim Powell <jsp98m3@apexcone.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install PS: I gave you the short answer. I apologize. While it is remotely possible that letting the wheel hang at full droop without the rear damper attached could damage the axle joints due to the acute angle, in real life nothing happens. Don't bounce the wheel, don't play Dukes of Hazard. Just remove the damper and install the new one. If it doesn't line up on the bottom after the top is attached, compress the damper rather than pulling down on the wheel to get the bolt hole to align. Thousands of them a day are replaced in home and professional garages just like this. Got it? Jim andytk@speakeasy.net wrote: > Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:55 -0700 > From: andytk@speakeasy.net > Subject: Rear Damper Install > > I'm gonna be putting in new springs/dampers and just checked out the Bentley and its a sayin you have to remove the drive axle. I found write up at www.unofficialbmw.com that mentions nothing about removing the drive axle but it was based on a 325. Am I in for more work then I anticipated or is there some better way of doing it?????
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#3. Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:18:36 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation In a message dated 4/13/01 10:22:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jsp98m3@apexcone.com writes: Want a big one? Well, do ya? The boys at UUC Motorwerks have one for you :) Guys/Gals, Well, I can testify...this one really works. The "play" in my clutch pedal is atrocious! The original "small" stop cost me a missed shift during an autox by getting hung up on the back of the stop. On a track, I could see this causing a very dangerous situation. The "Big Boy" clutch stop has worked for me without the need or expense of replacing the pedal bushing. In this case, BIGGER IS BETTER, and the significant other agrees ;-)) Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 #13 BSP 2001
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#4. Question about racing belts - from Brent95M3@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:41:14 EDT From: Brent95M3@aol.com Subject: Question about racing belts I found a good deal on CSR seatbelts. I have never heard of this company before. Anyone have any experience with them? This is a 5 point belt. Thanks, Brent Parks
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#5. Does anyone make 1-piece rear shock tower brace? - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:12:58 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Does anyone make 1-piece rear shock tower brace? I'm looking for a rear shock tower brace for my 1995 M3. I've taken a cursory look at AA, Dinan and Racing Dynamics, but all of these appear to be a 3-piece design. I know Sparco also makes one, but I have not been able to find a picture. In any case, I'm looking for a 1-piece rear hock tower brace along the lines of the BMW Motorsport front strut brace which is also a 1-piece design. Is there such a thing? Perhaps from a different manufacturer than I listed above? Geof
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#6. Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation - from Thomas Maus, Jr.
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:34:58 -0400 From: "Thomas Maus, Jr." <tbm2@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation The deal that UUC is offering right now, turn in your old _aftermarket_ clutch stop, and get the "Big Boy" for $10 which includes shipping, is unbelievable. I too had too much play in my pedal (still do). It would go right past my "clutch stop". Made me lose concentration going into the hairpin at Sebring. Couldn't drive real well on the streets either. Couldn't sleep at night. People started talking about me when I walked into rooms. Pretty girls wouldn't go out with me. Then I got the "Big Boy", and my life has changed. It is the best. Tom Maus '96 Dakar II ----- Original Message ----- From: <Mdriver13@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 11:22 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation > Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:18:36 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] UUC Motorwerks Clutch Stop Installation > > In a message dated 4/13/01 10:22:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > jsp98m3@apexcone.com writes: > > > > > Want a big one? Well, do ya? > > The boys at UUC Motorwerks have one for you :) > > > > > Guys/Gals, > > Well, I can testify...this one really works. The "play" in my clutch > pedal > is atrocious! The original "small" stop cost me a missed shift during > an > autox by getting hung up on the back of the stop. On a track, I could > see > this causing a very dangerous situation. The "Big Boy" clutch stop has > worked for me without the need or expense of replacing the pedal > bushing. In > this case, BIGGER IS BETTER, and the significant other agrees ;-)) > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > #13 BSP 2001 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Which direction do your rotor vents go? - from Sean Hester
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 13:15:03 -0700 From: "Sean Hester" <seanh_race@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which direction do your rotor vents go? these are EXIT vents. not intake vents. so they are "backwards" to allow the air to escape. >Anyway, I have a question....Ive never changed rotors, just pads....And, I >forgot to look at what direction the rotor vents were >facing....Intuitively, >I felt the 'swoop' of the curve of the vents should face forward, so that >when moving forward, the curved vents would 'catch' the air and force it >down and to the inside. > >However, when I picked up my car, I found that the vents were facing >Backwards which at first I thought was a mistake, since I couldnt see how >the air could possibly enter the rotors this way...He told me that in fact >they should be facing backwards, and that he did it right.. I was hoping >that when I got home, at least 1 of the 4 other M3s in my garage where I >live would be home so I could check, but no go...When I got upstairs, I >opened up one of my brake handbooks, and found that much to my surprise, >all >the pictures of cars with curved vents in their rotors had their rotors >installed like mine, ie, vents facing back. On rotors with gas slots, they >too were facing back, so that both vents, and slots face in the same >direction...While its intuitive to me that the slots should face back , so >as to 'throw' the gas backwards, it still wasnt clear why the vents would >face that way....Until I examined the picture of a car with air ducts >installed. From those pics, it seemed what was happening was that the air >was entering the rotors near their inside center points, and flowed >Outwards, following the backward sweep of the vents. > >All of a sudden it started to become clearer.....But just for the hell of >it, could someone who still is on his original rotors take a look, and >confirm which way his vents are curved? Look in the fronts, cause the >rears >are too hard to detect with the wheels on. Thanks.. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:25:06 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Damper Install Andy, Replacing the rear shock is no problem. I recommend removing the bolt at the bottom of the shock first. It is an 18 mm bolt. After you do this, the wheel will drop down. Like Jim said, I don't think this is too terribly bad. If you want, you could block underneath the rotor so it can't drop. Bentley may even recommend this blocking step. However, if you are also replacing the rear springs, this is where Bentley recommends removing the rear half axles. You don't need to remove the axles. After you undo the shock, the rear wheel will drop down. But not enough to easily pull the rear springs out. The springs are centered on posts. In order to get the springs out, make sure the parking brake is off. I also disconnect the rear sway bar on both sides. You can do this by removing the sway bar link from the A-arm. It is a 13 mm nut on top of the A-arm. Not the easiest to get to but you can reach through the springs and get to them after a bit of effort. This still won't drop the wheel down enough to get the springs out. What I do (and every other person in the world) is step on the wheel and pull and yank on the springs to get them off the posts. You slightly over extend the CV joint. Not the best idea but as long as you don't overdo it, it should work OK. It does not take long at all. Good luck, Lowell Seaton '95 M3 - rear springs in and out several times Dallas, Texas
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#9. Is there a diff between 95 and 96+ suspensions? - from DASGUNZZ@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:44:17 EDT From: DASGUNZZ@aol.com Subject: Is there a diff between 95 and 96+ suspensions? I drove a 97 m3 then drove a 95 recently and the 95 seemed to handle a lot better. It was much more tight feeling. It just seemed like it drove on rails, both cars were stock. The reason I'm asking is b/c I might purchase a used '99 sometime soon, if the '95's are sportier I might just keep searching till I find the right '95. Did the 96+ m3's lose their sporty edge and become more luxury? Thanks in advance, TK
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Is there a diff between 95 and 96+ suspensions? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:14:10 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Is there a diff between 95 and 96+ suspensions? TK, Yes there is a difference. Stock, the 95's come with 7.5" wheels all the way around, except for the lightweight. The 96-99's (&95 lightweight) came with 7.5" front and 8.5" rear wheels. The 96-99's have less static camber, but more caster in front. The 96-99's have a 1mm larger rear sway bar. They are probably a few other differences. I have a 97, and have driven lot's of 95's. For the most part, they are fairly similar. Any aftermarket changes you make to the suspension can make more of a difference than the stock 95 vs 96 up. If you add more camber to a 96 up car, then you may be ahead of a stock 95. Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 16:44:17 EDT > From: DASGUNZZ@aol.com > Subject: Is there a diff between 95 and 96+ suspensions? > > I drove a 97 m3 then drove a 95 recently and the 95 seemed to handle a > lot > better. It was much more tight feeling. It just seemed like it drove on > rails, both cars were stock. > > The reason I'm asking is b/c I might purchase a used '99 sometime soon, > if > the '95's are sportier I might just keep searching till I find the right > '95. > Did the 96+ m3's lose their sporty edge and become more luxury? >