E36M3 #1176

Tuesday, April 17, 2001 21:42:27

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from twisty M3
#2. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from Bora Akyol
#3. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from twisty M3
#4. Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from Roger Baker
#5. E36 M3 wheels w/ R1s FS - from eevans@planetc.com
#6. Re: [E36M3] Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from Chris Teague
#7. Re; ABS and traction control lights on - from Abdoul Aziz Wane
#8. RE: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from Tom Tice
#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from D Seeley
#10. G-Tech Pro - from Sue Kraft

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#1. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:38:20 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT Seems to me that the easiest way is to have the front up on ramps, or to have the car on a lift with the suspension loaded (unless you're thin enough to actually get under the car while it's on the ground). Whatever you do, don't try doing it with one side loaded and the other not... Ask me how I know. (on second thought, don't ask) ;) Jonathan L. >From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> >Subject: SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT > >Hello All, > >I am going to replace my sway bar bushings on my 95 M3 this weekend with >the >ones from BMP. What is the best way to accomplish this? Jack up both >wheels? >Leave car down? Any tips? Anything else I should do while at it? > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#2. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:48:47 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT I put the car on jackstands. First did the rear then the front. The rear takes longer than the front and it may help to take off the wheels but not a must. Bora > From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> > Reply-To: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> > Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:01:50 -0500 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT > > Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:51:52 -0400 > From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> > Subject: SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT > > Hello All, > > I am going to replace my sway bar bushings on my 95 M3 this weekend with the > ones from BMP. What is the best way to accomplish this? Jack up both wheels? > Leave car down? Any tips? Anything else I should do while at it? > > I just did Koni's and H&R springs. The old ones with 72,500 miles were shot, > would not even rebound. I set the Koni's 1 full turn from soft. Very nice > ride in my opinion. Not too rough, but firm. > > Thanks for the help in advance. I have really learned my car much better by > doing things myself with help from this list. The time in my garage by > myself working on my ride is right next to going for a ride. > > Gary Preece > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >

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#3. Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from twisty M3
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 16:38:15 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT Seems to me that the easiest way is to have the front up on ramps, or to have the car on a lift with the suspension loaded (unless you're thin enough to actually get under the car while it's on the ground). Whatever you do, don't try doing it with one side loaded and the other not... Ask me how I know. (on second thought, don't ask) ;) Jonathan L. >From: "Gary A. Preece" <gapreece@entreky.net> >Subject: SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT > >Hello All, > >I am going to replace my sway bar bushings on my 95 M3 this weekend with >the >ones from BMP. What is the best way to accomplish this? Jack up both >wheels? >Leave car down? Any tips? Anything else I should do while at it? > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#4. Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from Roger Baker
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:03:51 -0700 From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> Subject: Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures Stiffen the end you want to slide - soften the end you want to stick. You greatly changed the roll rates when you changed bars, especially since you set the front stiff & the rear at full soft. Stiffen the rear &/or soften the front to reduce understeer. You could try them one at a time & then test out the car to get a better feel for suspension tuning, or set them both to full soft & go from there. Also, go back to a known tire pressure (i.e. what you used to run when your car was balanced). Then dial the pressures in after the bars are close. -- Roger Baker "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> wrote: > I was at the same AutoX as Bora. I could also use some setup help. > > Car configuration is 99M3 PP-S02 235s all around. UUC tubular sways (thanks > bora) 1 notch towards stiff front and full soft rear. > > Prior to attending the autocross I had (I believe) 38 front and 36 rear hot > pressures and beautifully neutral handling. Just a touch of throttle was > enough to induce mild oversteer and rotate the car. This seemed to be > independent of speed or turn angle or turn duration, but I could be wrong. > > Prior to the autocross I added 2 lbs to my rear tires because I feared that > they would wear excessively fast and roll under. This was a mistake. I had > severe understeer and no changes to tire pressure seemed to help I added > more front pressure due to bad edge tread wear. Today on the street I have > an understeering car. Cold pressures showed 34R-36F the morning after the > event. > > I am guessing that I need to optimize my front grip (tire pressure, sway, > hat swapping etc) and then throw away some rear grip to get back to neutral. > How do I best go about this? Books? Websites? Advice? > > Help wanted and thanks in advance, > Eric

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#5. E36 M3 wheels w/ R1s FS - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 20:58:56 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: E36 M3 wheels w/ R1s FS Group, I have (4) Konig 5 spokes mounted w/ R1s? I bought a set from a fellow lister to use on my E36 M3 and they've never been mounted on my car. The R1s have only seen 2 driver's schools and the wheels are in very good condition. $750 plus shipping from Knoxville, TN 37919. Evan

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from Chris Teague
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 18:11:30 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Autocross, understeer, tire pressures Eric, You probably want more front pressure, especially if you are rolling the tire over. You certainly want more front camber. you also should set the front toe to 0, or slightly toe out. Then you may want to stiffen up the rear bar. Adjustable shocks would be the next step. Try to do things one at a time so you get an idea how that change effects the car. A good quick reference web site is: http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm Chris Teague 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 6:31 AM Subject: [E36M3] Autocross, understeer, tire pressures > Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:22:24 -0700 > From: "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> > Subject: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures > > I was at the same AutoX as Bora. I could also use some setup help. > > Car configuration is 99M3 PP-S02 235s all around. UUC tubular sways (thanks > bora) 1 notch towards stiff front and full soft rear. > > Prior to attending the autocross I had (I believe) 38 front and 36 rear hot > pressures and beautifully neutral handling. Just a touch of throttle was > enough to induce mild oversteer and rotate the car. This seemed to be > independent of speed or turn angle or turn duration, but I could be wrong. > > Prior to the autocross I added 2 lbs to my rear tires because I feared that > they would wear excessively fast and roll under. This was a mistake. I had > severe understeer and no changes to tire pressure seemed to help I added > more front pressure due to bad edge tread wear. Today on the street I have > an understeering car. Cold pressures showed 34R-36F the morning after the > event. > > I am guessing that I need to optimize my front grip (tire pressure, sway, > hat swapping etc) and then throw away some rear grip to get back to neutral. > How do I best go about this? Books? Websites? Advice? > > Help wanted and thanks in advance, > Eric > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > > >

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#7. Re; ABS and traction control lights on - from Abdoul Aziz Wane
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:37:24 -0400 From: Abdoul Aziz Wane <abdoul@afriquenet.com> Subject: Re; ABS and traction control lights on It could be one of two things: 1) If battery is very low both lights would come and stay ON until the battery if back at *normal charge*. 2) If battery is known to be over 12.4 volts or so at least, then my next guess would be the ABS sensor. This is at least what happened to my 325is Cheers, Abdoul 1985 635csi 1994 325is -> for Sale 1995 325ic MPowered 1997 528i 1982 Merc. 380SEL AMG upgrades --> for Sale 1975 Fiat Spider 124 _______________________________________________________ This message was sent through AfriQueMail™. Get a free EM address and web space courtesy of WaneCorp Sign up: http://www.wanecorp.com/AfriQueMail/signup.php3

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#8. RE: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT - from Tom Tice
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:33:26 -0400 From: "Tom Tice" <tetice@triad.rr.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT > Whatever you do, > don't try doing it with one side loaded and the other not... Ask me how I > know. (on second thought, don't ask) ;) > > Jonathan L. I'll just bet that you quickly learned to appreciate the amount of energy that can be stored in that rather harmless looking metal bar! Tom Tice '98 M3/4 '99 540/6

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures - from D Seeley
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:33:59 -0800 From: D Seeley <dseeley@infoasis.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures Oh, that takes all the fun out of it! <BG> Donna ------- 88 M3, "Guido," JP #41 95 330isA, super-commuter > > Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:03:51 -0700 > From: Roger Baker <rbaker@velodyne.com> > Subject: Re: Autocross, understeer, tire pressures > > You could try them one at a time > -- > Roger Baker > > > "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> wrote: > >> I was at the same AutoX as Bora. I could also use some setup help. >> >> <snip> >> >> I am guessing that I need to optimize my front grip (tire pressure, sway, >> hat swapping etc) and then throw away some rear grip to get back to neutral. >> How do I best go about this? Books? Websites? Advice? >> >> Help wanted and thanks in advance, >> Eric

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#10.  G-Tech Pro - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:20:15 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: <FS> G-Tech Pro Excellent condition w/ instructions. $100 plus shipping.

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