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#1. UUC Tech Support - from Stan Shaw III
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Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 23:03:12 -0400 From: "Stan Shaw III" <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: UUC Tech Support Rob or Ben, I sent a request for information to the technical support mailbox. Please advise if the email was not received, and I will resend. Thanks! Regards, Stan Shaw Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0407 Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net http://www.excell.net/
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#2. Mille Miglia MM 2 Sport wheels to work with 10mm Spacers?? - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:28:57 -0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Mille Miglia MM 2 Sport wheels to work with 10mm Spacers?? <html><DIV>I wanted to order a set of 10mm spacers from Steve D (Ultimate Garage) and was wondering if anyone of you out there are running MM 2 Sport wheels (17*8) with those spacers. After wrapping 245/40/17 Hoosiers, clearance is an issue (hence the spacer solution). I will be hitting the track day after (and am short for time :)and wanted to know if it worked with these wheels before I over nighted it (and then realize it doesent work). Other option is to get the Dinan ones. Comments/suggestions? Thanks in advance.</DIV> <DIV>Ahmad</DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>
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#3. Re: Planning to swap strut hats - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:43:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Planning to swap strut hats on 4/17/01 6:31 PM, "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> wrote: > I am thinking I should just go ahead and swap my strut hats for the extra > front camber. Any reasons not to do this? You'll end up with in excess of 2.5 degrees of negative camber, which is a lot for the street. If your daily driving includes plenty of curves, this may be acceptable. But if like me most of your driving is straight line or highway, you'll get accelerated wear of the inside edges of the front tires. I ended up putting the struts back the way they were and instead using camber shims, which can easily be removed. IMO this is the better low bucks solution, except in the case of a dedicated track car. The high bucks solution is of course to buy adjustable camber plates. > Does anyone have a write-up on how to do it or any pointers? The procedure is simple enough. Remove and disassemble both front struts. Carefully reassemble with the hats swapped, paying special attention to the correct placement and orientation of the various spacers and thrust washers. Refit the struts to the car, being sure the hat arrows point forward. Disassembly of the struts requires knowledge of how properly and safely to use strut spring compressors. With respect, if you already know how to disassemble struts you probably don't need instructions, and if you aren't familiar with it, you would be better to have someone do that part for you. Neil 96 M3 - BTDT
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#4. Bridstone RE730 for auto-x - from Ed Tang
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 06:55:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> Subject: Bridstone RE730 for auto-x Steve wrote: "RE730's (was Auto-X technique questions) Since I have limited time to auto-x this year (a baby in the house does that to you!), I sold my set of Kumho's and will probably run only a few events on the RE730's, but I don't have any auto-x time on this set (yet)." IMHO, I think the 730's suck for auto-x. There is a reason why they are cheap. With all this talk about understeer, you will experience quite a lot of it at an auto-x. The tire basically reaches its limits very quickly. I also think they progressively get worst as the heat builds up. Also, I have sometimes overinflated them b/c the tires shudder like they were rolling over (again the phenomenal grip characteristics of the tire), when in fact they just kind of rub over the asphalt. Definitely use the shoe polish to check on the roll. Good luck. Ed Tang 95 Cosmos M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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#5. Part Number for Camber Correction Plate (aka Crash Mounts) - from Geof McLaughlin
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:56:35 -0400 From: Geof McLaughlin <gfmiiilist@usa.net> Subject: Part Number for Camber Correction Plate (aka Crash Mounts) Anyone happen to have the part number available for the front strut camber correction plates also known as "crash mounts"? Thanks. Geof
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#6. Public thanks to Neil D - from Carey Probst
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:44:43 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Public thanks to Neil D Just wanted to make a public thank you to the great work Neal has put into his web site. I needed a quick refresher on rebuilding the brakes on an E-30 and the detailed pictures were a great help for an old guy who hasn't done something like that for quite a while. This is not meant as a slight to the others who have great helper sites as well but Neil's was dead on what I needed. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged Soon to be Hitched and Braced
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Bridstone RE730 for auto-x - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 07:56:56 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Bridstone RE730 for auto-x Ed I got a 50.960 as my best time of the day, this was ruined by a +1 but that cone probably did not save me any time. This was on RE730s. This time is within 0.4 seconds of a friend's M3 with sticky tires and he is a pretty good autocrosser too. I think the trick with Bridgestone's is to leave them at the street pressures. They do get very hot very quickly and they lose a lot of traction when over-inflated (I had a terrific spin in my first run when I set my tire pressures to 40/36). But when set (for my car) at 34/32, they are pretty good. My biggest complaint with them is the shudder that you seem to have experienced as well. The tire does not roll over, it just shudders. My next street tire will probably be the Pole Position, but I probably will get sticky tires first. Bora > From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> > Reply-To: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> > Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:01:49 -0500 > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Bridstone RE730 for auto-x > > Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 06:55:26 -0700 (PDT) > From: Ed Tang <etangf1@yahoo.com> > Subject: Bridstone RE730 for auto-x > > Steve wrote: > > "RE730's (was Auto-X technique questions) > Since I have limited time to auto-x this year (a baby > in the house does that to you!), I sold my set of > Kumho's and will probably run only a few events > on the RE730's, but I don't have any auto-x time on > this set (yet)." > > IMHO, I think the 730's suck for auto-x. There is a > reason why they are cheap. > With all this talk about understeer, you will > experience quite a lot of it at an auto-x. The tire > basically reaches its limits very quickly. > I also think they progressively get worst as the heat > builds up. > Also, I have sometimes overinflated them b/c the tires > shudder like they were rolling over (again the > phenomenal grip characteristics of the tire), when in > fact they just kind of rub over the asphalt. > Definitely use the shoe polish to check on the roll. > Good luck. > > Ed Tang > 95 Cosmos M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >
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#8. BMW Alarm - from John Van Houten
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:29:34 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: BMW Alarm Anyone have the instructions for the BMW factory alarm install? I want to transfer it from the race car (in progress) to the street car and I want to be sure I get all the pieces, etc. Thanks John
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#9. RE: Planning to swap strut hats - from Eric Fesler
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:34:23 -0700 From: "Eric Fesler" <Robert.Eric.Fesler@nsc.com> Subject: RE: Planning to swap strut hats So what about the shims? Where does one get them and is this a do it yourself-er as well? Method aproximately the same? Thanks again, Eric > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] > Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 6:44 AM > To: E36M3 > Cc: Robert.Eric.Fesler@nsc.com > Subject: Re: Planning to swap strut hats > > > on 4/17/01 6:31 PM, "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> wrote: > > > I am thinking I should just go ahead and swap my strut hats for > the extra > > front camber. Any reasons not to do this? > > You'll end up with in excess of 2.5 degrees of negative camber, which is a > lot for the street. If your daily driving includes plenty of curves, this > may be acceptable. But if like me most of your driving is straight line or > highway, you'll get accelerated wear of the inside edges of the > front tires. > > I ended up putting the struts back the way they were and instead using > camber shims, which can easily be removed. IMO this is the better > low bucks > solution, except in the case of a dedicated track car. <SNIP> > > Neil > 96 M3 - BTDT
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#10. Re: Planning to swap strut hats - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:48:00 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Planning to swap strut hats on 4/18/01 11:34 AM, Eric Fesler at Robert.Eric.Fesler@nsc.com wrote: > So what about the shims? Where does one get them and is this a do it > yourself-er as well? Method aproximately the same? > > Thanks again, > Eric Shims are super simple. Normally the bottom of the strut attaches directly to the kingpin with 2 bolts. You loosen the upper strut to kingpin bolt enough to allow movement, and remove the lower bolts. The lower bolts are replaced with slightly longer ones, and reassembled with a shim - basically a thick hardened washer, either 4mm or 6mm - placed on each bolt between the strut and the kingpin. This has the effect of kicking out the bottom of the kingpin, and therefore the hub and wheel, for a little extra camber. The 4mm shim gets you about 2.25 degrees of negative camber, depending on the car. Toe changes slightly, so you'd want to check alignment after adding shims. One thing to bear in mind is that the top of the wheel is now slightly closer to the lower spring perch on the strut than before. This isn't normally an issue, but could be for those running abnormally wide front tires, or aftermarket front wheels with non-standard offset. I've used 225 Kumho and 235 A032R track tires with shims and no problems. You can buy bolt/shim sets from Steve D'G or from Korman for small money, a few dollars. Neil 96 M3