E36M3 #1188

Monday, April 23, 2001 17:47:01

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] FS= M3 Embroidered trunk mat - from Altezza280TT@cs.com
#2. Re: [E36M3] List Wisdom Needed -- splash guard replacement - from Skip Bogard
#3. '95 M3 For Sale (RESEND) - from Marcus Groenig - SAS(Yield)
#4. suspension - from Kit Wetzler
#5. "M" aluminum pedals for your E30, E36, E46, E34 - from Dorffer, Rich
#6. New E36/4 owner questions - from Dan & Anne Miley
#7. Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from Ahmad Lutfeali
#8. EBC Pads -Greens and Reds - from Eric Fesler
#9. E46 RSM's per UUC's - from Steven Hazard
#10. Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from John Van Houten

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#1. Re: [E36M3] FS= M3 Embroidered trunk mat - from Altezza280TT@cs.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:30:06 EDT From: Altezza280TT@cs.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] FS= M3 Embroidered trunk mat Sorry hear the right link to it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=582819 463& r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=988654604&indexURL=0&rd=1

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#2. Re: [E36M3] List Wisdom Needed -- splash guard replacement - from Skip Bogard
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:24:48 -0400 From: Skip Bogard <Skip.Bogard@ALUMni.DUKE.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] List Wisdom Needed -- splash guard replacement Your '95 M3 shroud is 51 72 2 250 643 and 17 11 2 227 690 (insert panel in the middle). I'd suggest instead you consider installing a circa late '96/'97 shroud: 51 71 8 156 259 (the microfiche/parts CD lies... it did not come out in 9/1993) It is much lighter in weight (I'd guess at least 1/2 or more) and less likely to come off from gravity, animal, and speed bump assists. Or you could consider the JTD cover, but I've not installed one before, so I defer to others on it.. Your old "pork chop" left/right coverings will work (those things are airfoils that direct air in front of the tire to be violently turbulent and spill air off to the sides of the L/R front tires. So instead of letting a moderately steady high pressure zone of air pile up in front of the left/right tire's curved surface (which then has the effect that the tires become inverted airfoils and together with the road's surface, cause lift to the car's front end), the air in front of the tire is disrupted and not allowed to contribute to a lot of tire lift. But I'll note that they'll (new shroud and old porkchops) not mate exactly because your old style shroud was a reverse airfoil (providing some downforce, and contributing to it's ultimate demise because of the crappy plastic fasteners)....and the new shroud is not an airfoil...it is flat. There are newer style left/right coverings that are also flat & match exactly, but I don't know the proper part numbers. Maybe someone who has these laying in their garage can tell you the two L/R p/n's (the '95 setup has 4 P/n's...there is a part within a part). You might ask for help from a BMW tech who knows how to convert your model '95 shroud setup to the circa '96/'97 setup. For most techs, its a challenge even for them, the parts CD is VERY unclear.... If JTD could make their setup a reverse airfoil like the stock '95 setup, I would have bought it by now. It just needs a little curve it it instead of being flat. - Skip (been through two '95 shrouds and one '97 (still working) in 120k miles) Jeremy Lucas wrote: > > Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 23:28:46 -0400 > From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> > Subject: List Wisdom Needed -- splash guard replacement > > After an unfortunate incident with some road kill this evening, my splash > guard was torn free and dragged quite a bit (despite my roadside efforts to > prevent the dragging). I've searched my Bentley manual but no diagrams or > pictures of the splash guard mounting can be found to aid in it's removal > and replacement. > > 1) Does anyone have a link to this type of information?? Uberjeph had some > information that I remember looking at in the past but that site no longer > is up. > > 2) Any thoughts on which replacement I should get? stock? JTD? Anybody > done both, which is better? > > 3) Anybody run without one? Are there any consequences to leaving it off? > > Thanks in advance, > > Jeremy Lucas > 95 M3 >

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#3. '95 M3 For Sale (RESEND) - from Marcus Groenig - SAS(Yield)
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:26:52 -0500 From: "Marcus Groenig - SAS(Yield)" <MGroenig@SAS.Samsung.com> Subject: '95 M3 For Sale (RESEND) Sorry, forgot a couple of important pieces of information: Updated Home Phone Number, Added Vehicle Location I'm posting this for a friend: 1995 M3 Cosmos Black with Black leather interior for sale by original owner. Car was purchased new in January 1996. Only 25,700 meticulously maintained miles (always garaged, car mostly used on weekends). CD changer, OBC, Sunroof, Heated Seats. Oil changed every 3000 miles, 1st service performed. Includes fitted car cover and Moda M1 (5 spoke pattern 17x8 wheels made by BBS) with BFG Comp TA 3rd gen tires (currently mounted on car), as well as original set of 5 wheels (standard 17x7.5 M 10 double spoke wheels). No track time, non-smoker car in pristine condition. Car is located in Austin, Texas Asking $25,000 Call Jon: H (512-255-6490), W (512-672-1792)

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#4. suspension - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:44:18 -0700 From: "Kit Wetzler" <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: suspension > Stock front spring rate 105 rear 335 > HR Sport 200 380 You mentioned that you thought that this setup would increase understeer. Normally you're right. The problem is that the M3 has a pretty shallow camber curve, and doesn't gain enough camber under roll... that's why we track guys like to run so much camber... (I run -2.5 and need more on the track but don't like changing camber between track and street...) Sometimes, adding more roll stiffness can allow more grip up front. I didn't think that my H&R sports added to the understeer at all. -kit 97 m3/4, with H&R coilovers now... very neutral handling

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#5. "M" aluminum pedals for your E30, E36, E46, E34 - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:06:03 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: "M" aluminum pedals for your E30, E36, E46, E34 Hmmm, these look suspiciously similar to the UUC pedals. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=581480102& r=0&t=0 Rob, you are obviously missing out on the "M sticker" upgrade for your pedals, they appear to add a minimum of $77.50 to the price. Out, Rich

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#6. New E36/4 owner questions - from Dan & Anne Miley
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:34:15 -0400 From: Dan & Anne Miley <mileyd@tiac.net> Subject: New E36/4 owner questions I recently bought a nice '98 M3/4 with 34K miles after finally finding one without a sunroof. More headroom for a tall guy wearing a helmet. This forum seems really good, so I have a couple of questions: - The clutch pedal has side-to-side play. I hear that there is a plastic bushing that wears out. Should I have the dealer fix this under warranty? Has BMW come out with a better part? Or should I use an after-market metal part? Who sells those and how big a deal is it to install? - The guy I bought the car from was bothered by the staggered wheels so he traded for 8.5s up front. That's fine, but now the car has 245/40-17 Conti SportContacts in front and Bridgestone RE730s in the same size in back. No problem on the street, but that doesn't sound like a great thing for driving schools. Different handling characteristics in front and back doesn't sound like a good plan. I'll eventually get a second set of wheels and tires for schools, but right now the car is a lot better than I am, so I'll use street tires. Should I go with what's on the car or get another set of RE730s for the front? Thanks for the help. --Dan

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#7. Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:53:42 -0000 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer -2.8 camber. Hmmmm. I run the car on the street as well and have Korman bolts. KMAC does not go upto 3ish. I need a set of adjustable camber plates then that can accurately turn in -1 for the street and -3 for the track. Any suggestions/recommendations? (GroundControl or TC Kline?) Allignment is an issue. I can spend hours. I know of a local shop in Boston so that problem is solved. Now (wearing my flame suit). RX7 and M3 comparison. No comparison. They are not in the same league. M3 is an all purpose car, RX7 is not. ON the track, RX7s are one of the best handling cars out there. (Check out SCCA SOLO 2s) Even on the road courses, at LimeRock, both car stock with brake pad upgrade and R Compound tires, the RX7 would hand down clock a FULL SECOND per lap over the M3 (Stock RX7 ran a 1.02.9 I have yet to see an M3 do that). At Mt. Tremlant its almost 2 seconds. M3 is a better all around car (comfort, convinience, reliability etc). Where I like the M3 over the RX7 (both cars stock) is better brakes (not much fade as the RX7s), DOES NOT BREAK DOWN (I love the reliability of the M3s ;) M3s do not have cooling problems (Stock RX7 does not have a radiator and intercooler designed for the track, it heats up quite fast). If I had to have a track only car, RX7 with minor mods are a blast (mods are a lot cheaper, for instance a chip for an M3 will give you 3-5 horses-if that-to the wheel, in my RX7 I got 25 rear wheel horses). For everday driving, I love the M3s by far, thats why I sold the rotary and am back to pistons ;) Ahmad Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:52:14 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer Here are a few things to do to help you solve the problem. If you dont have one yet, go get a Tire temp gauge, On a E-36 M3, you should try to get about -2.8 to -3.0 degrees of camber up front with about -2 in the rear. Also make sure that your alignment shop is a good one. I have only found 2 places that could ever do it right. Most places would do it, hand me a print out and then I would ask them to roll the car off and back on, the alignment would be way off, by alot!!! After doing several hot laps, have someone in the pits measure your pressure, you want to have about 45#s HOT then check temps. It takes about -2.9 camber for me to get even temps all way across the tire. It does change according to the track. Almost everyone I have instructed that complained of lack of turn in, just needed more front camber and sometimes a slower entrance speed into a corner. But if the car is set-up right, speed will not matter, then it is just a matter of going too fast, you will spin and not make the corner, but the car will turn in. Rule of thump, soften the end you want to have grip, stiffen to decrease grip. I think if you get more front camber, fix your tire pressures, you will find that the M3 has a degree of balance that an RX-7 never had. Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#8. EBC Pads -Greens and Reds - from Eric Fesler
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:16:36 -0700 From: "Eric Fesler" <fesler@nsc.com> Subject: EBC Pads -Greens and Reds I too have used the EBC pads. I (up?)graded from the oem pads to the greens initially. The greens have truely amazing bite once they are bedded. I have used OEM, green, red and PFZs. The greens have by far the best bite. They are however only good for 1 or 1.5 stops from 90mph. HMS replaced them with reds for free. The reds were never quiet. I think they had the best repeat stopping power of the pads I have tried. If I could solve the noise problem I would be tempted to go back. They were REALLY noisy. I am now running the PFZs. They do fade but it takes a fair amount of hard braking. They have a medium bite but feel very easy to modulate and are generally quiet. Every so often they get a kind of grinding scraping noise but either a cool down or a really agressive stop cures that. I am tempted to try the R4s. I think I can live with more noise and dust but I want superb braking. Rgds, Eric (4 types of brake pads in 9months)

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#9. E46 RSM's per UUC's - from Steven Hazard
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:21:42 -0500 From: "Steven Hazard" <98m3@mediaone.net> Subject: E46 RSM's per UUC's I just had these installed. Took out the Ground Control RSM's and put these in. I run a H&R Race C/O kit in my 98M3/4 and the change is night and day! WOW............much better sound isolation back there...I can actually live with my 550 lb rear springs now on the street.........Stiffness does not bother me, but sound does.....and these new mounts are awesome....I have to thank Ben & Rob at UUC for making us aware of these new bushings.... Anyone want some GC RSM's :-) Has anyone else tried these yet? Regards, Steve

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from John Van Houten
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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:44:40 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer > RX7s are one of the best handling cars out there. (Check out SCCA SOLO 2s) May want to tell Bob and Patty Tunnell that. They've been cleaning up in SoloII/ProSolo with their 95 M3 (10 National titles) so far, and a few victories on the National Tour this year. M3's don't handle too bad., me thinks... John

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