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#1. SS SUPERSPRINT ROUND TIP 4 SALE ON EBAY! - from Altezza280TT@cs.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:42:46 EDT From: Altezza280TT@cs.com Subject: SS SUPERSPRINT ROUND TIP 4 SALE ON EBAY! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=583589 691
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer/Wheel Lift - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:45:04 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer/Wheel Lift Seth, I think I can answer how a stock M3 can lift the inside wheel, at least for me. In my case, I only autox my car, so it has always been the slower autox turns, at maybe 30-50mph. I think the key is not just cornering hard, but cornering hard in a 2nd gear corner, and then applying power hard. Full throttle in second gear transfers a lot of weight to the rear, especially with soft/stock rear springs, lifting up the front. At that point, the inside wheel is in the air. I can see that that would not happen in a higher speed (gear) corner. I am not sure that is really an issue with the understeer anyway, since I have watched fast M3's at local autox's lift the inside front wheel while oversteering. My car (I was not the original poster on this issue) had a lot of corner exit understeer, not entrance, but I have mostly dialed that away with my Koni DA shock adjustment, although I still have stock camber and springs (SCCA AS rules). I ignore the fact that the front wheel may be in the air, not that I can tell inside the car anyway. Anyway, that's my $0.02 Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 3:15 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer > Here is a good picture of what a stock suspension M3 looks like on the track > in a turn. This is at Turn 1 @ Road Atlanta. For those that don't know > this is a very fast turn in an M3. I would say between 80-95MPH at is > uphill. This photo looks to be right after the apex. Notice how compressed > the front left strut is. This turn is not an understeer turn unless you > turn in early. That is when it becomes trouble. But I guess what I am > thinking about here is how can a stock car with just bars and xbrace be able > to lift the front tire in a turn? I just don't see how it can be done. I > mean the only E36s that I see lift the inside wheel in a turn is a race E36 > LTW with a stiff race suspension and a full rollcage. And it did not lift > it that much. Anyone care to chime in on this one? One thing to ask if you > are getting understeer is are you sure you are not turning in either too > early or maybe even too late? To me it would be more likely early. > >
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#3. Dreaded Understeer - from Chris Brown
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:21:51 -0400 From: "Chris Brown" <ChrisB@Drextec.com> Subject: Dreaded Understeer <snip>But I guess what I am thinking about here is how can a stock car with just bars and xbrace be able to lift the front tire in a turn? I just don't see how it can be done. I mean the only E36s that I see lift the inside wheel in a turn is a race E36 LTW with a stiff race suspension and a full rollcage. And it did not lift it that much. Anyone care to chime in on this one? <snip> Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com www.m3power.com Seth - It is possible to lift the inside wheel in a "streetable" car. I've got a '95 M3 with Xbrace, Strut Tower Brace, mild Eibach Springs and Eibach sways set to full soft front and rear with stock shocks and stock alignment. It lifts the inside tire on heavily loaded turns with R1 G-Force 235/40/17's on 8x17" wheels. I've got lots of pictures from Summit Point of this sort of thing coming shortly, I'll post a URL when I have them to show. This is really a function of the swaybars, unless you have a very, very short shock shaft in the front. If I went to the "hard" setting on the front shock it would lift even more. Heck, I've nearly lifted the inside wheel on a totally stock Z3 2.8 at the Nurbergring - take a look at http://www.christianbrown.com/images/travel/europe%20spring%202000/NurburgRing/Z3cornering.jpg If the car is really well set up, it won't lift the front wheel at all, as front roll stiffness will prevent that much body movement vs. the wheel. Put another way, the car won't be permitted to compress the suspension so much in a steady state turn. Cheers - Chris Brown ------------- http://www.ChristianBrown.com
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#4. Engine Whine - from ENF
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:37:08 -0400 From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Engine Whine Back before January I emailed the list with my car problem, which was, a belt whine sort of sound that shows itself 30 to 40 minutes into driving the car (never cold). I had taken it to the dealer and met with the following results: 1) One day check out - No problem noticed (go home). 2) Brought it in again - One day checkout changed belt tensioners (go home) 3) Same problem - You'll have to leave it with us - scheduled appointment- they had car for 10days-could not find sound. Are these people deaf???? It is very loud to me inside the car and very pronounced outside the car when between objects. No problem found(please go home). 4) Pissed off, drove to dealer grabbed master tech, can you hear that??? Yes! What is it? don't know bring it in (end of Feb). 3 days - What is it? Don't know???? Come back when BMW Rep is here. When? Don't know? Call back. 5) Rep in town Apr. 24, dropped car off 23rd. picked up 25th (had schedule II done at 25,500). No KNOW PROBLEM car is fine! Did he hear the sound? No, Did you? Yes. Now what? Don't Know. What the hell do I do now? I got a mysterious and aggrevating engine noise nobody can identify. The basic thought is, if everything else is OK live with it. This is a $30K(plus) car. What do they mean live with it? What are my options? OK, what are my options that will work? Thanks in advance, egar to close the book on this, btw schedule II cost almost $500 (with a couple of things replaced included) is that about right? Ed Frank 97(noisy) M3/4 X-Brace
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:40:42 -0400 From: Vern Anderson <vanderson@cerebellumsoft.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer I haven't been paying much attention to this thread, but this post caught my attention. It is very easy to lift the inside front tire of a stock E36M3 in certain conditions. I autocrossed my (then) bone-stock 98 M3 in A Stock with sticky 245 Hoosiers and I could get the inside front tire at least 4 inches off the ground. I've seen photos of it and if I can dig one up I'll scan it in and post a link. I was also told that my car was lifting the inside front wheel at two different turns at Mid-Ohio - the Keyhole and Turn 8 (left in Madness). I've seen stock M3's do that on those turns first hand. In fact, now that I have coil-overs with very limited suspension travel, it is much harder to do that trick as the weight transfer is not as pronounced (a good thing). I've found that it is mostly a result of overly aggressive power application. The cars I've seen do it in the Keyhole usually applied the power too early (before the little dip) and ended up pushing too much toward the end of the turn. In autocross when I've done it, I was usually on the power too early and I had to lift a hair to bring the car back in line. Lifting the inside front wheel is much more a product of fairly long suspension travel, lots of weight transfer and good rear grip than stiffness - things a stock E36M3 has in spades. It also has to be done on a tighter turn than the one in the pic in my opinion. Vern Anderson -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:10:38 -0400 From: "Seth Thomas" <porsche993@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer Here is a good picture of what a stock suspension M3 looks like on the track in a turn. This is at Turn 1 @ Road Atlanta. For those that don't know this is a very fast turn in an M3. I would say between 80-95MPH at is uphill. This photo looks to be right after the apex. Notice how compressed the front left strut is. This turn is not an understeer turn unless you turn in early. That is when it becomes trouble. But I guess what I am thinking about here is how can a stock car with just bars and xbrace be able to lift the front tire in a turn? I just don't see how it can be done. I mean the only E36s that I see lift the inside wheel in a turn is a race E36 LTW with a stiff race suspension and a full rollcage. And it did not lift it that much. Anyone care to chime in on this one? One thing to ask if you are getting understeer is are you sure you are not turning in either too early or maybe even too late? To me it would be more likely early. Seth Thomas www.m3ltw.com www.m3power.com
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#6. Re: [Strut Braces - from Lew Becker
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:56:21 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [Strut Braces I don't intend to re-open this can o'worms, but: Are suggesting that the factory included Motorsport strut braces in the trunks of the LTW's (along with such other go fast pieces as the dual pick-up oil pans; splitters; etc.) for eye candy? The guys at PTG observed that any brace with a hinge or pivot will not serve any purpose (the factory Motorsport brace has none; JTD's has none). Steve Dinan referred to his strut brace as eye candy; but, his has a hinge/pivot design. I can't speak to faster track or auto-x times, but I experienced a noticeable improvement in the way my car cornered/turned-in (97 M3 w/Dinan Bilstein Stage 3; UUC bars; JTD RSM's; 18x8.5 BBS RC's) when I installed the JTD front brace. Lew Becker ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:43:07 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re: Strut Braces > > > Can you say "Eye Candy"? While a strut tower brace adds a nice look to the > car, I think that Bob Tunnell and others have shown that it's not a > necessity. > > > -Ron (my money is going to VIR, Summit Point and Nurburgring schools) > Buchalski > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:57:30 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Dreaded Understeer (long) > > There are too many factors at work here for simplistic answers. Some things > to think about. > > Swaybars > ======== > It's plain silly to say that the RD bars "suck" (John Robison on 4/23). > First, plenty of people use these with success, as Ron Katona pointed out > (4/24 post). Second, the 27mm RD front bar is only about 16% stiffer than > the 26mm bars, not very much in the scheme of things. I do observe that > there seem to be two fundamental schools of thought on E36 M3 bar sizing: > Dinan's and everyone else. And both of them work, for different reasons. > > Dinan follows the classic practice of softening the front bar relative to > the rear to reduce understeer. By all accounts the Dinan cars handle very > well. However Dinan only sells complete suspension systems which include > matched custom springs, shocks and in some cases other parts, so you can't > consider his bars in isolation from the rest (see springs item). > > Everyone else basically sells a much larger front bar and a slightly stiffer > rear. Since the stiffness of a swaybar varies with the 4th power of its > diameter, my 27mm RD bar is some 90% stiffer than the stock 23mm, and the > 26mm Eibach bar would be 63% stiffer. (See the camber item below for why > these both work.) It's quite possible that one is a slightly better > compromise than the other, but you'd have to drive them back to back under > controlled conditions to find out (I think Jim El Nabli may have done that > at some point). Experience shows that both are in the same ballpark. > > > Camber > ====== > Some track tires (e.g. Hoosiers) require quite a lot of of static negative > camber (3-4 degrees) to perform well on the E36 M3, and all benefit from > some amount. This may partly be due to the tire design. However a major > contributing factor is the E36 front suspension design using MacPherson > struts, which give only modest camber gain as they compress. (Kit Wetzler > pointed this out on in his 4/23 post.) > > Camber gain is the increase in negative camber while moving through its > travel, due to the suspension's design geometry. Imagine the car rolling on > to the outside wheel during cornering and compressing the suspension. If > there were no camber gain, then the wheel would always lean at the same > angle relative to the car body, and the outer tire's tread would tend to > lift at its inside edge, reducing grip. > > To counteract this, some camber gain is designed into the suspension. Double > wishbone geometry allows as much camber gain as wanted, but struts don't. > However you don't want too much camber gain, because hitting bumps in a > straight line also compresses the suspension, and large camber changes would > make the car feel unstable. > > One way to minimize the effect of lack of front camber gain when cornering > is simply to limit the car's ability to roll; the less it rolls, the less > camber gain is required. You can achieve this with a bigger front bar (like > RD/UUC/Eibach) or with stiffer front springs (see springs item), or both. > > The other way is to dial in a bunch of static negative camber, so that even > though you lose some in roll you still end up with enough to work the tires > right. Of course this also affects straight line characteristics. So once > again it's a compromise. > > > Springs > ======= > Kit Wetzler referenced some E36 M3 spring rates: > - Stock front spring rate 105 rear 335 > - HR Sport 200 380 > and Ron Katona pointed out that Bob Tunnell is now using 505F/390R for his > Auto-X car. I wish I knew what the Dinan rates are, but they don't publish > that info. > > We do know that stock M3 front springs are really very soft for track or > competitive use. In hard cornering they basically let the front flop over. > Although a soft front should be good for grip that's only true up to a > point, and in practice the camber gain problem becomes the key factor. Using > stiffer front springs helps control things by limiting roll, and I suspect > that to be the rationale behind Bob's choice. Really stiff springs also > improve transitional response, and while I'm not an autocrosser, I assume > that to be a factor for Bob too. > > (Shock damping also plays some part, but since most of us don't have double > adjustable shocks I'm leaving this one alone. Besides, I don't know anything > about it!) > > > Bottom line > =========== > In his book "Driving to Win", Carroll Smith explains why some corner entry > understeer is a *necessity* in order to be able to accelerate effectively > out of the corner ("Fundamental Truth #4" on page 2-37; go buy the book, > it's worth it). > > So assuming that you've already sorted out the spring, shock, swaybar, > camber and tire pressure issues to some reasonable level of compromise, > you're still going to have corner entry understeer to deal with. How much > depends on how you drive. > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > > > -------------------- 3 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:01:16 > From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> > Subject: Steering Racks, etc > > Well, I'm finally preparing to part company with my first BMW, a 1985 E30 > 318i (*sniff*). The car hasn't seen much use over the past two years, when > I purchased it's replacement (1993 525iT). > > Anyhow, I've been driving it to work this week to get my last bit of use > from it, and it really dawned on me how much better the steering feels on > this car versus my 1995 E36 M3. I haven't been able to quantify the > differences, other than the M3 seems to have a variable ratio, while the > 318i does not. > > Around town, the M3 ratio seems to be too slow (too much turning required), > while on the road, the M3 raio seems to be a little too quick (too little > turning required). By contrast, the E30's ratio seems to be just right (to > me) for all situations. > > Now, it could have something to do with the fact that I've driven the M3 a > total of 30k miles in three years, while I drove the 318i a total of 236k > miles over the course of 13 years, so the 318i feels familiar. > > Another thing...the steering feel in the E30 is much better than in the M3. > The E30 communicates much better through the steering wheel. > > One more thing...the feel of the E30 on the road...much more "fun"...like a > go-kart (Eibach, Bilstein Sports, Suspension Techniques bars probably helps > here), the driving position is great, the lower dashboard is more appealing, > the driving view is broader, taller... > > If the E30 has the power and braking capabilities of the M3, I'd probably be > in heaven. > > Damn, I'm gonna miss this car.... :-( > > Has any other E30 + E36 owner had similar thoughts when comparing the two > models? > > -rb > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > -------------------- 4 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:39:41 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Euro Door Mirror > > on 4/24/01 9:05 PM, Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > > > The Euro (E36) M3 came with a convex drivers side mirror. I replaced the flat > > glass with this mirror. This replacement, along with adjusting the mirrors to > > minimize the overlap of the left + right mirrors with the main rear-view > > mirror in the car does wonders to make the M3 mirrors quite nicely usable. I > > have this mirror on my M3 > > Andrej, > > Is it heated? > Do you have the P/N? > How did you buy it? > > TIA, > > Neil > 96 M3 > > > > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:42:14 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: Dreaded Understeer (long) > > Neil, > > Excellent post! Spoken like a true mechanical engineeer. > > I have Dinan springs on my '95 M3. I like them. I "think" you can buy Dinan's suspension parts piecemeal. At least I did about 14 months ago. Granted, the sales rep wanted to sell me the whole nine yards but I was able to just buy the springs alone - $298 + shipping. [I initially planned on buying Eibach sways but I replaced my stock rubber sway bar bushings with BMP urethane bushings and I now think the stock sway bars are fine.] > > As for Dinan's spring rates - I can assure you he continues the "soft front/stiff rear" concept to the springs. The rear springs are substantially stiffer than stock and not nearly as progressive as stock. Whereas the front springs are almost identical to stock, just a tad shorter. > > I can also tell you that the Dinan springs are horribly mismatched with standard Bilstein struts - rear is fine. The Bilstein struts are way overdamped for rebound with the soft Dinan front springs. I don't think I get any wheel extension over small bumps. Just a "crash" when the car falls down. > > Dinan used to sell Bilsteins with his suspension kits. Now I only see Koni SA offered. I thought Dinan had specified a custom valving. But when I called Bilstein to inquire, the guy said "no". I don't believe it. My combo is so bad I think Dinan would have been run out of town by previous buyers by now. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 - Revalved Bilstein struts planned > Dallas, Texas > > > > -------------------- 6 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:53:22 -0500 > From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> > Subject: Re[2]: Euro Door Mirror > > Neil Maller writes: > > >> The Euro (E36) M3 came with a convex drivers side mirror. I replaced the flat > >> glass with this mirror. This replacement, along with adjusting the mirrors to > >> minimize the overlap of the left + right mirrors with the main rear-view > >> mirror in the car does wonders to make the M3 mirrors quite nicely usable. I > >> have this mirror on my M3 > > > Andrej, > > > Is it heated? > > Yes, more so than the standard mirror it replaced. > > > Do you have the P/N? > > I do, at home on the box it came in (which is now cleverly used to store the > stock mirror). I'll post it tonight if somebody else doesn't post it to the > list sooner. > > > How did you buy it? > > Chester (Wong) organized a group purchase of these a while back, where'dya get > them from Chester? > > Andrej > '97 M3 > > > > > -------------------- 7 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:05:59 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: New E36/4 owner questions > > on 4/23/01 5:55 PM, Dan & Anne Miley <mileyd@tiac.net> wrote: > > > > The clutch pedal has side-to-side play. I hear that there is a > > plastic bushing that wears out. > > Correct. Many of them also begin to squeak, and lubing doesn't fix it. > > > Should I have the dealer fix this under warranty? > > They might do it, but that won't fix it. > > > Has BMW come out with a better part? > > Nope. > > > Or should I use an after-market metal part? Who sells those? > > Ron Stygar sells a new stock pedal modified with much better bearings, or at > least he used to. It cost $65 when I bought mine a year or so ago and works > perfectly: no slop, no squeak. > > Email <Ron@unofficialbmw.com>. > > > and how big a deal is it to install? > > Depends on your tolerance for stuffing your upper body down into the > driver's footwell. Large persons need not apply ;) > > Neil > 96 M3 - Squeakless no slop Ron Stygar clutch pedal > > > > -------------------- 8 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:11:39 -0400 > From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro Door Mirror > > Yes, it's heated, > Chester Wong put together a group purchase > chester_p_wong@yahoo.com > Don't have part number but Chester may. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Maller" <neil.maller@gte.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 1:45 PM > Subject: [E36M3] Re: Euro Door Mirror > > > > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:39:41 -0500 > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > > Subject: Re: Euro Door Mirror > > > > on 4/24/01 9:05 PM, Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > > > > > The Euro (E36) M3 came with a convex drivers side mirror. I replaced > the flat > > > glass with this mirror. This replacement, along with adjusting the > mirrors to > > > minimize the overlap of the left + right mirrors with the main rear-view > > > mirror in the car does wonders to make the M3 mirrors quite nicely > usable. I > > > have this mirror on my M3 > > > > Andrej, > > > > Is it heated? > > Do you have the P/N? > > How did you buy it? > > > > TIA, > > > > Neil > > 96 M3 > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > > > > > -------------------- 9 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:37:24 -0400 > From: nabli@attglobal.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Euro Door Mirror > > Hi Neil, > > The part numbers are: > > 51 16 2 267 191 Drivers > 51 16 2 267 224 Passenger W/O writing > > Chester did set up a group purchase I guess sorta maybe he did. LOL! > > Hey Chester, you always seem to get such a good deal - hoe do you do it! ;-) > > Cheers, > Jim E. > > Neil Maller wrote: > > > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:39:41 -0500 > > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > > Subject: Re: Euro Door Mirror > > > > on 4/24/01 9:05 PM, Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > > > > > The Euro (E36) M3 came with a convex drivers side mirror. I replaced the flat > > > glass with this mirror. This replacement, along with adjusting the mirrors to > > > minimize the overlap of the left + right mirrors with the main rear-view > > > mirror in the car does wonders to make the M3 mirrors quite nicely usable. I > > > have this mirror on my M3 > > > > Andrej, > > > > Is it heated? > > Do you have the P/N? > > How did you buy it? > > > > TIA, > > > > Neil > > 96 M3 > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > -------------------- 10 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:40:35 -0400 > From: nabli@attglobal.net > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Screeching/Grinding Brake noise, but pads seem to have 60% > left. > > > Thanks Chester. > > BTW, your check is in the mail! :-) > > > Talk about being reeled in by another M3! Damn he was quick. > > > Jim E. > > > Chester Wong wrote: > > > > BTW, I have some pics of the event: > > http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=838931 > <http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=838931&a=12694195&f=0> > &a=12694195&f=0 > > > Congrats goes to my bud Jim E who was signed off twice and advanced to > the > green run group for the third day at Summit Point...on street tires no > less! I > love picture 19 :) > > > > > > > ************************************************************** > Digest Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE DIGEST - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the digest. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************** >
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#7. Sorry - from Lew Becker
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:57:50 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Sorry Sorry about not clipping that last post. Brain fart.
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#8. Aluminum Pedal Install - from Lew Becker
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:04:42 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Aluminum Pedal Install I'm installing a set of the UUC Aluminum pedals (nice pieces, BTW) and am having a miserable time getting to the fasteners at the top/rear of the gas pedal. I seem to recall a thread about how to get the gas pedal off/on, but haven't been able to track it down. The factory aluminum pedal install instructions speak about removing the gas pedal and replacing with a new one to which the aluminum pedal is installed -- surely there's an easier/better way. Any help will be much appreciated. Lew Becker
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Engine Whine - from Sue Kraft
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:11:28 -0500 From: Sue Kraft <skraft1@new.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Engine Whine Sounds like the same problem I had with my '97. The noise would only start after the car warmed up. Turned out to be an air leak in the rear main seal. The air leak creates a vacuum leak in the system and as the motor tries to suck air through the leak in the rear main seal, it makes a whining noise like a belt slipping. They pulled the tranny, replaced the rear main seal, and I never heard the noise again. One way to check to see if this is the problem with your car is to remove the oil filler cap the next time you hear the whining noise (with the motor running) If the noise gets quieter or goes away, then there's a good chance it is the rear main seal. You see, when the oil filler cap is off, the car will be sucking air through the big hole (from the cap being off) and not the tiny leak in the seal, thus making the whining noise either go away or change. Hope this helps. Suzy ENF wrote: > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:37:08 -0400 > From: "ENF" <enf@iglou.com> > Subject: Engine Whine > > Back before January I emailed the list with my car problem, which was, a > belt whine sort of sound that shows itself 30 to 40 minutes into driving the > car (never cold). I had taken it to the dealer and met with the following > results: > 1) One day check out - No problem noticed (go home). > 2) Brought it in again - One day checkout changed belt tensioners (go home) > 3) Same problem - You'll have to leave it with us - scheduled appointment- > they had car for 10days-could not find sound. > Are these people deaf???? It is very loud to me inside the car and very > pronounced outside the car when between objects. > No problem found(please go home). > 4) Pissed off, drove to dealer grabbed master tech, can you hear that??? > Yes! What is it? don't know bring it in (end of Feb). > 3 days - What is it? Don't know???? Come back when BMW Rep is here. When? > Don't know? Call back. > 5) Rep in town Apr. 24, dropped car off 23rd. picked up 25th (had schedule > II done at 25,500). No KNOW PROBLEM car is fine! > Did he hear the sound? No, Did you? Yes. Now what? Don't Know. > > What the hell do I do now? I got a mysterious and aggrevating engine noise > nobody can identify. The basic thought is, if everything else is OK live > with it. This is a $30K(plus) car. What do they mean live with it? > > What are my options? OK, what are my options that will work? > > Thanks in advance, > egar to close the book on this, btw schedule II cost almost $500 (with a > couple of things replaced included) is that about right? > > Ed Frank > 97(noisy) M3/4 X-Brace >
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer - from JEFFHARKER@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 22:28:14 EDT From: JEFFHARKER@aol.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] Dreaded Understeer Seth ponders; << But I guess what I am thinking about here is how can a stock car with just bars and xbrace be able to lift the front tire in a turn? I just don't see how it can be done.>> Easy. Pitch the car a little, don't have quite enough roll stiffness in the rear, not enough droop in front because of sway bar or shock rebound, or a boatload of torque. Look at cars in a corner with a downhill exit, e.g. Keyhole at Mid Ohio, and most M3s will "dog paw". Cars corner better with four wheels on the ground. --jeff ex Porsche piloto, spent may turns on 3 wheels (just wish I had the torque of that Andial engine in the LTW)