E36M3 #1218

Tuesday, May 01, 2001 12:33:00

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: Oil Temps, was Re: JTD OTB Questions/Comments - from Ron Buchalski
#2. Re: Wheel Bearings on E36 Cars - from Neil Maller
#3. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from Greg Cernosek
#4. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from Chester Wong
#5. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from peter@guagenti.com
#6. Big George Foreman's E46 stablemates - from Barrett Nicholas
#7. Re: [E36M3] E46 Spotted Today - from nabli@attglobal.net
#8. rear sway bar reinforcement...choices - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#9. Re: [E36M3] rear sway bar reinforcement...choices - from Bora Akyol
#10. Time to replace a light bulb? - from david tow

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#1. Re: Oil Temps, was Re: JTD OTB Questions/Comments - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 13:41:06 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Oil Temps, was Re: JTD OTB Questions/Comments Bob, The coolant temperature would be much hotter than the oil temp, if not for the radiator (which transfers heat out of the system). The coolant flows through the water jackets around the cylinders (primarily), and on the other side of the water jacket is the combustion process, which is where all of the heat is generated. The heat transfer characteristics of the cylinder block (iron or aluminum) will determine how much heat is transferred across this metal boundary, and at what rate. Plus, the coolant is always flowing, taking heat away. Try disabling your water pump and see how long your engine lasts. On the other hand, the oil flows through oil passages in the block and head, and circulates through the oil pan. Oil is also sprayed at the bottoms of the pistons. Unless your car is equipped with an oil cooler, the only oil cooling that takes place is via airflow across the oil pan, and heat transfer through the oil pan walls. Since the oil doesn't get nearly as hot as the coolant does, this is adequate for most purposes. For racing and/or extreme service, an external oil cooler is normally used. So yes, under hard use, the oil temp can exceed the coolant temp, but the difference isn't great (tens of degrees), because the coolant is drawing away the majority of the heat generated (other than what's blown out the exhaust pipes). If your thermostat failed, or was set for an non-normal temperature (say, 240 degrees instead of 180), your oil temp would also rise a comparable amount (if you didn't have an external oil cooler). -rb >From: M Driver <m3tec@yahoo.com> >To: e36m3@bmw-m.net >CC: rbuchals@hotmail.com >Subject: Oil Temps, was Re: JTD OTB Questions/Comments >Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:53:32 -0700 (PDT) > >Ron, > >This is an interesting observation. >From my experience w/ other engines, oil temps are >usually 20 - 40 degrees higher than coolant temps. >I attributed this to the oil is transferring heat to >the coolant, therefore it has to be hotter. >I am sure it makes a difference at what point on the >engine you are measuring temps. >I also use this analogy: To see which fluid transfers >more heat, drain each fluid and see what fails. With >the engine running, if you drain the coolant, the >engine would run for a longer time than if you drained >the oil. Don't ask me how I know :-/ > >Bob _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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#2. Re: Wheel Bearings on E36 Cars - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 08:58:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings on E36 Cars on 5/1/01 7:02 AM, Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > You'll need tool 31 2 106. It's an insert that fits into the hub so that you > can use a generic puller to remove the hub and/or inner race. Then you'll > need tool 31 2 110 to install the bearing/hub assembly. The later tool runs > for about $155 or so. It was pretty easy to do. I'm sure it would be nice to have the BMW tools, but it's certainly not necessary. I used ordinary pullers when I did my front wheel bearings. Instead of the insert tool Chester mentions you can slip a socket in there for the puller's central screw to bear against. I now also have a generic wheel bearing removal tool which I bought at an auto parts store for about $25. I had to enlarge its mounting holes just fractionally for the BMW application. It attaches to the hub with lug bolts, and pulls the hub right off using a central screw. If anyone feels a wheel bearing job coming on, I have a write-up on the procedure. It's not hard. Email me privately for a copy. Neil 96 M3

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#3. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from Greg Cernosek
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 09:29:31 -0500 From: "Greg Cernosek" <gcernosek@inetx.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts Black smoke is usually fuel. Oil produces white smoke. Hope that helps, Greg Dallas, TX 98 M3/4 w/ stuff -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liu [mailto:bob_a_liu@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 6:53 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 04:43:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Robert Liu <bob_a_liu@yahoo.com> Subject: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts Hi Group, I have a stock 95 M3 with 147k miles. I had a compression check and leakdown before I bought the car at 146k miles. All cylinders were between 174 and 176 psi, and 1-2% leakdown. At a recent autocross, according to a friend, the car blew black smoke during upshifts near redline. Does this mean the valve guides are worn? Or is there another way for the oil to get into the exhaust, for example, pcv valve, etc.? I assumed the engine was in fairly good shape because of the compression and leakdown readings. Thanks in advance! Bob ===== ------------------------------------------------------------ Robert Liu bob_a_liu@yahoo.com ICQ# 22765210 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************

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#4. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:45:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts Also, if you're on WOT and then suddenly lift off while shifting, isn't there a slightly rich condition? Or is that not possible with today's engine management? Also, could it be some build-up of soot in the exhaust? I know I saw black puffs of smoke when behind Jamie Harris and Wayne Miller at Summit Point. Chester --- Greg Cernosek <gcernosek@inetx.com> wrote: > Black smoke is usually fuel. Oil produces white smoke. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/

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#5. RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts - from peter@guagenti.com
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:23:36 US/Pacific From: peter@guagenti.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] black smoke on upshifts > Black smoke is usually fuel. Oil produces white smoke. It was my understanding that: - Black smoke = Fuel - White Smoke = Coolant - Blue Smoke = Oil I know white smoke is burning coolant, because I have seen it coming out of the tailpipe of many friends' cars. My old VW had blue smoke on start -- oil deposits on top of the cylinder walls burning -- which a head job remedied. Black smoke? I've never seen it so can't verify the cause. If you think an imbalanced fuel condition is causing the black smoke, I'd make sure that the car has a fairly new O2 sensor. The're supposed to get replaced NO LATER than 100k, but I have heard a few stories lately of them never being touched. I know other folks who do them every 50k. As our cars age, the maintenance bits become more and more important. -peterg ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using HiSpeed Technologies Webmail. http://www.hispeed.com

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#6. Big George Foreman's E46 stablemates - from Barrett Nicholas
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Date: 1 May 2001 10:26:30 CDT From: Barrett Nicholas <barrett.nicholas@usa.net> Subject: Big George Foreman's E46 stablemates George also has a matched set of Z8s to keep his e46 M3 from feeling lonely. Barrett Nicholas Houston, Texas ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1

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#7. Re: [E36M3] E46 Spotted Today - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 11:41:05 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] E46 Spotted Today All this talk about E46 M3s has turned me into Pavlov's pet. No no, not that i want to buy one. I just can't wait for the sea of inexperienced newbies to put those cars to their graves so the opportunists (like myself) can snatch up that engine/tranny combo for their eagerly awaiting E36s! :-) Response to Chester below ====>>>> Chester Wong wrote: > I sat in one over the weekend at Steve D's brake session. It was carbon black > and looked pretty nice. I guess that would be one of the colors I'd consider > since it looks like a very dark blue in bright light conditions. This is an example of Chester finally seeing and appreciating the light - blue that is! LOL! > > > The car is definitely quick and the owner didn't care about beating on the car > with only 120 miles on the clock. Oh well. One comment: the exhaust sounds > like crap...especially from behind the car. Jim E and myself heard one of the > cars at Ofest as the tech moved it around. We bothe remarked at how there's > this strange metallic sound. Jim hypothesized that it was because the engine > wasn't broken in. Well, whatever it is, it was still there on this carbon > black M3 as well. > > I prefer the sound of my AA gen III exhaust any day over the E46M3 exhaust. > BTW, many people noticed that aside from the race prepped cars, my car was the > sweetest (and loudest) car on the track at Summit Point. Jim E's stock > exhausted car sounded like a big 'ol vacuum cleaner! ;) I dunno, I just can't seem to get myself to spend $600+ for around 10 hp (on a good day that is). Ok here's an idea for real real cheap hp. Get signed off at your next event and assuming your instructor is around 200lbs (from my experience this is being quite conservative :-) ) and you've just added 20 hp! Woo hoo! Cheers, Jim E.

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#8. rear sway bar reinforcement...choices - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 13:01:12 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: rear sway bar reinforcement...choices Group, Which is the better way to go here: UUC supports ($100) bolt-on, looks like you only need to drill a few holes (I can do this), or the supports that Turner Motorsports sells ($39) but need to weld (can't do this), so total cost will know doubt be close to $100 too. Soooo, which will do a better job? All comments and opinions welcome. Bora? (I search for you, since you reseach these things so well). Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA AS Champion 1997 & 2000 #13 BSP 2001

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#9. Re: [E36M3] rear sway bar reinforcement...choices - from Bora Akyol
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Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:11:52 -0700 From: Bora Akyol <akyol@akyol.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] rear sway bar reinforcement...choices I recommend the Ground Control reinforcement kit. Installed cost me 35 bucks. Looks good and gives ample access to the sway bar bracket bolts and nuts. Bora On Tuesday, May 1, 2001, at 10:02 AM, Mdriver13@aol.com wrote: > Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 13:01:12 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: rear sway bar reinforcement...choices > > Group, > > Which is the better way to go here: UUC supports ($100) bolt-on, looks > like > you only need to drill a few holes (I can do this), or the supports that > > Turner Motorsports sells ($39) but need to weld (can't do this), so > total > cost will know doubt be close to $100 too. Soooo, which will do a > better > job? > > All comments and opinions welcome. Bora? (I search for you, since you > > reseach these things so well). > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > AS Champion 1997 & 2000 > #13 BSP 2001 > > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > ************************************************************* > >

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#10. Time to replace a light bulb? - from david tow
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Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 10:29:57 -0700 From: "david tow" <david_tow@hotmail.com> Subject: Time to replace a light bulb? I took my car back from "The Driving Machine" after Inspection II and noticed the clock's light bulb's out on the way home that night. I called the service advisor and he agreed to replace it free of labor except charging me for the light bulb. One condition though; I have to have my smog check done there for $55, which should be around $24 anywhere else. How much time does it require to replace a light bulb for the clock? Part cost? Thanks for your help in advance! __ __ David Tow / / / / | / | ______ 95 M3 coupe / / / / |/ | o/______\o Red/gray / / / / | (OO=00=OO) david_tow@hotmail.com / / / /__/|__/|__| []*=XX=*[] _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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