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#1. Re: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? - from John Van Houten
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:01:15 -0500 From: "John Van Houten" <jvanhouten@ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? > Anyone done a write up? racepad.com has a great right up and no it doesn't require any special tools and is fairly easy to do. John
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? - from Fadeev, Alex
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:04:10 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? Scott Watters [mailto:Scott.Watters@vina-tech.com] wrote: > > M3 gear-heads, > > I've been around the automotive industry for many > years and even made a few bucks during summers > as a wrench in the 80's, but now I'm going to > do a front brake job on my 10/95 M3. I've bought > pads, rotors, sensors, and fluid, but wonder if > there are any 'special' tools I need to do the > R&R? Anyone done a write up? Scott, This is one of the easiest DIY jobs: You will need a 14?mm hex bit to unbolt the caliper, remove old pads, insert new pads, push the caliper piston in (I use a padded C-clamp), bolt everything back up. Should take you about 30 minutes per wheel, 20 of them spent jacking up the car and removing/re-installing the wheel. Get the E36 Bentley (www.rb.com) manual for future jobs. alex f
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#3. Re: [E36M3] front tires - 225/45 or 235/40? - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 13:08:30 -0500 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] front tires - 225/45 or 235/40? Jonathan, I switched from the original staggered to 17x8.5 rims with 245/40/17 tires all the way around a couple of years ago. In going from 225/45/17 to 245/40/17 tires up front, I noticed a little less understeer as well as a slightly heavier steering wheel. I got used to it fairly quickly, at this point I consider the heavier feel in my car normal. Not much of an increase though, just enough to be noticeable. Going in the reverse direction should get you back to a bit more understeer and a bit lighter steering. I can tell you that having the same size tire all the way around sure makes life easier when it comes to rotating tires - our M3's generally burn thru rear tires about twice as fast as front tires. Being able to rotate extends the life of the tire some. Andrej '97 M3 Jonathan Evans writes: > Allrighty, > I think I'll go back to the 96' and above standard staggered tire sizes > on my 95 with the staggered LTW wheel setup. I'm wondering if the > centimeter less width is going to give me more understeer. I'm hoping it > will give a tighter turn in feel on the other hand. The car is stock > otherwise. > Comments? I seem to be the only one running 235/40 on the front with > 245/40 on the back with stock BMW staggered wheels. Previous owner changed > up the setup, not sure why. > Can't wait for 4 tires of the same brand and model. (Re730)
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Euro floating rotor part # ? - from nabli@attglobal.net
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Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 13:29:31 -0400 From: nabli@attglobal.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro floating rotor part # ? 737 = left 738 = right Also, next time tell your parts guy to set his defaults values to ECE and U.S. Otherwise he'll never find a european part in the future. Cheers, Jim E. Chester Wong wrote: > Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:57:21 -0700 (PDT) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro floating rotor part # ? > > Are they: > > 34 11 2 227 737 > 34 11 2 227 738 > ?? > > Chester > > --- Rob <motor@cadvision.com> wrote: > > Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 08:30:47 -0600 > > From: "Rob" <motor@cadvision.com> > > Subject: Euro floating rotor part # ? > > > > My local dealer can't find the part #'s for the Euro 2 piece rotors, > > does anyone know what they are?. > > > > thanks > > Rob > > > > > > > > ************************************************************* > > List Commands > > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > > > To issue a command/request to the server: > > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > > subject of the message. > > ************************************************************* > > > > > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > ************************************************************* > List Commands > UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. > DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. > GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). > > To issue a command/request to the server: > Send a message with the command you wish executed as the > subject of the message. > *************************************************************
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#5. Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance - from Peter Fanning
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Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 11:12:40 -0700 From: Peter Fanning <pfanning@premier1.net> Subject: Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance Jonathan, ProParts (which I was very happy with) assembled the struts for me, I just swapped the parts. I replaced all four corners over a leisurely Saturday. This was about a year ago so I don't know if there's a complete Koni kit yet. Peter Fanning '98 M3/4 At 08:49 AM 5/2/2001 -0400, Jonathan Evans wrote: >The installation for a DIY seems a bit daunting. Drilling out old struts? >Replacing just parts? Or does Koni have a complete kit yet? Am I thinking >of the double adjustables? >Please shed some light on this for me, as this seems like a viable >alternative. > > >Thanks >Jonathan > >----- Original Message ----- > >Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 8:07 PM >Subject: Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance > > > > Jonathan, > > > > You may be surprised but the single adjustable Koni's give a better ride > > than stock. The only change I've made to the suspension is the addition >of > > Koni's when the stock shocks started going soft (~40k). I think the >street > > ride is better and certainly more controlled on the track. I also think > > the Koni's are less expensive than stock.
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 11:15:10 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jbassett@geysernetworks.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Any 'special' tools needed for 95 M3 front brake job? > M3 gear-heads, > > I've been around the automotive industry for many > years and even made a few bucks during summers > as a wrench in the 80's, but now I'm going to > do a front brake job on my 10/95 M3. I've bought > pads, rotors, sensors, and fluid, but wonder if > there are any 'special' tools I need to do the > R&R? Anyone done a write up? No really special tools needed. The basic tools you'll need are: - 7mm hex for removing caliper guide bolts (a stubby one is helpful, but not necessary, for the rear guide bolts) - 6mm hex for removing rotor set screw - 16mm socket for removing caliper bracket bolt (for removing rotor) When I first started doing this, all of the above were "special" tools :-) And, as mentioned, there's a very good write-up at http://www.racepad.com/. It and the Bentley manual were invaluable the first time I did a brake pad change. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - manymanymany brake pad changes :-)
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#7. Re: DIY Koni install (was Re: Preventative Suspension - from Mark Kelly
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Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 15:30:59 -0400 From: Mark Kelly <mark@garden.net> Subject: Re: DIY Koni install (was Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance) Speaking of Koni inserts for the front...does anyone know the proper torque setting for the nut on the top of the front Koni dampers? Mark
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#8. RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install - from Andy Korczynski
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 14:57:34 -0500 From: "Andy Korczynski" <andy@casskor.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install Wrapping up some conversations privately I realized that this thread was about Koni SA's. The 22mm and 6mm sizes are for Bilstein struts. Mr Seaton has informed me that the Konis require an 8mm for the shaft. Sorry for the confusion! Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Andy Korczynski [mailto:andy@casskor.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:14 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install (was Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance) As far as that top nut goes, you can use a 22mm long socket (1/2 drive) and slip a 3/8 drive extension through its center and have a 6mm allen socket sitting inside the 22mm long socket to hold the strut center shaft as you crank away at the 22 mm socket. You can either grind away some slots on the 22mm socket or weld a bolt on top of it so you can get ahold of it. If your in Chicago I'd be happy to let you use my modified 22mm socket. I just got done going through all this last weekend so everything is still very clear in my head. Andy K. -----Original Message----- From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com [mailto:Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:03 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] DIY Koni install (was Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 10:58:45 -0400 From: Eric.C.Dotson@travelers.com Subject: DIY Koni install (was Re: Preventative Suspension Maintenance) I did the Koni install on my car in January, and I didn't think it was such a big deal. The only special tools you need are a spring compressor and a special wrench to get the top strut nut off. Do yourself a favor and buy a pipe/strut cutter. I bought one from Pep Boys for $25, and it makes the job much easier. I thought the instructions from Koni were pretty good. I took a bunch of pictures with the idea that I would do a website, but that hasn't materialized. I could scan some and email them if anyone's interested. Eric 95 M3 00 Passat Wagon Jonathan wrote: "The installation for a DIY seems a bit daunting. Drilling out old struts? Replacing just parts? Or does Koni have a complete kit yet? Am I thinking of the double adjustables? Please shed some light on this for me, as this seems like a viable alternative." ************************************************************* List Commands UNSUBSCRIBE - (in subject line) unsubscribes you from the mailing list. DIR - sends a listing of files available in the list's GET directory. GET filename1.ext,filename2.ext - sends the requested file(s). To issue a command/request to the server: Send a message with the command you wish executed as the subject of the message. *************************************************************
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#9. RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 16:49:10 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install Andy, Actually, I was just curious about the source for your socket. But now that you mention it, see below. :-0 The three combo's I am familar with are stock, Bilstein, and Koni SA. My '95 M3 has a 22 mm strut top nut. However, I worked on a '98 M3 that had a 21 mm top nut. Fortunately my 22 mm fit well enough to work. Otherwise I would have been making a trip to Auto Zone for another cheap 21 mm socket to grind flats on. As for holding the strut shaft still while you remove the top nut, this is where the 6 mm allen bit or 8 mm (I think) socket come in to play. Starting with the easiest - Bilstein. None needed. The Bilstein shaft will not turn. Remember it is a monotube design. You are actually bolting the housing into the strut hat. Stock - 6 mm allen key. I use a short (i.e. regular depth) socket and a long handled allen wrench inserted through the socket to hold the shaft still. But your idea is better. You use a deep 22 mm socket and then put a 3/8" drive allen bit inside the socket with a 3/8" extension through the center of the socket. This is a better idea because you have to use a deep socket for the Koni's as described below. Oh, BTW. You said you welded a bolt onto your 22 mm socket. I think you meant "nut." Good idea. If you have a welder handy, that is probably the best. I ground 2 flats on my 22 mm socket and use a 1" open end wrench to turn the 22 mm socket. However, if you are undoing the strut top nut, you might just try zapping it off with an air wrench. As far as I know, no impact socket will fit inside the strut hat. Snap-On does sell a "thin wall" impact socket, however, I was not willing to spend $60 for it. And I can't remember if it was even offered in a 22 mm size. 7/8" would work if no 22 mm is available. I use a regular hand socket. I know it is not recommended to use a hand socket with an impact wrench so all disclaimers apply. Some people swear by the "zapping" with air wrench and don't use anything to hold the strut shaft. I have two problems with this. One - it didn't work the first time I tried to remove my struts. The shaft just turned. And second, I like to use my "calibrated" elbow to torque nuts. I can't do this if I zap it on with an air wrench. I prefer to grind the flats on the socket and use my hand tools. And then Koni SA. Koni's shaft will turn like stock so you have to hold it still. But Koni uses a hex nut on the end of the shaft. I think it is 8 mm. You do need a deep 22 mm socket for Koni's. However, it sounds like you have use a higher quality socket than what Auto Zone sells. I could not easily find a deep 22 mm socket with a hole large enough to fit my 3/8" extension through. But thanks to Andy, I guess I will have to go to Craftsman. I hate to spend $15 for a socket and then grind it off but if I must. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#10. Re: [E36M3] DIY Koni install - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 17:16:52 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@home.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] DIY Koni install ----- Original Message ----- From: <LoweSeaton@aol.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 4:52 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] DIY Koni install > Starting with the easiest - Bilstein. None needed. The Bilstein shaft will not turn. Remember it is a monotube design. You are actually bolting the housing into the strut hat. I have put bilsteins on 3 different M3s. On my own M3, I have removed them several times. Each time the shaft did turn. If you take the bilsteins apart, which you should do to cut the bump stop if you are using any type of spring besides stock springs. You will see that the tube itself turns inside the strut. So with Bilsteins, you will most likely have to hold the shaft as if you were doing a stock strut. If you dont, consider yourself lucky and saved 5-10 mins on the install. AND REMEMBER, YOU WILL NEED TO CUT THE BUMP STOPS IF YOU ARE USING ANY LOWERING SPRING OR THE CAR WILL BOTTOM OUT -SO TO SPEAK-IN THE FRONT. Mike, sorry about the screaming but I wish I had known that before I put my first set on. 95 M3 LTW forsale, sob sob sob